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limit straps!

GiS said:
How about the strength of the limit strap mount itself?

I see no problems with a 1/2" bolt being used on the limit strap, same as the shock hardware as mentioned ... but how BEEFY should your limit strap mounting tab be?

1/8" with a weld washer?
1/4" flat plate?

Ive been trying to save weight wherever possible.
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the biggest issue i see with limit straps is that at the mounts and strapped are not aligned at at fully droop, side loading tabs and you get a failure. also dont get those spring loaded adjustable clevis things. they turn into a slide hammer and destroy stuff
 
Traditionally most limit straps I've seen on crawlers the strap is mounted with the hole going side to side. All 4 of my mounts a tweaked a bit being mounted like this. Thinking about it now I'm almost thinking mounting them so the bolt goes front to back may be a better option. The axle will always remain at the same location so front to back never really changes but articulated travel and droop cause different loading. Maybe the bolt would allow the strap to aligned better, maybe I'm just spewing trash on my keyboard:homer:
 
I don't think they are necessary on a leaf sprung suspension. But I have yanked a shock tower off. It didnt hurt the bilstein...do people still run bilsteins? Or are they old news?
 
All 4 corners here . XJ with 416 mog portals, lots of weight to pull on the ...ahem Bilstiens...at full droop. it's a do all rig, still street driven too.
 
Adjustable Clevis on one end is a must, especially if you're using the strap to stop components from binding.

A perpendicular bungee wrapped around the middle of the strap keeps it from getting chomped by the tire.

Don't forget to adjust the strap so it is taught BEFORE the shock (or other component you're protecting) tops out. Otherwise, all you're doing is holding the axle on after the shock fails. Doesn't have to be the 1" per 12" of strap as prescribed.

Tack the mounts on, then hang it by the straps. If it breaks, you probably didn't get it lined up perfectly. :flipoff2:

I wish someone would make a softer bend radius strap. They always eventually get cut by the shackle thingy.
 
Limit straps on all 4 corners. The shocks still have 1" of travel when the straps are fully tight.
4653-sturgis-22-scotts-designs_1959-jpg.565744
 
I am running dual 24” straps so instead of 2” of stretch, it’s 1”.
The engagement will be harder but allows more travel when slowly flexing vs. dynamic stretching with full load and max stretch.
I also am running the shorter shaft spacer in the shocks so the 14” CO is traveling 15” but being limited to 14” so when the strap is near full stretch, the shock isn’t hammering the internal stops, I has another 1” of safety it could go. Maximizes usable travel but the shock is not over traveling to prevent buckling.
The alternative is to run one strap that stretches 2” and stop the shock 1/2” or 1” early for safety so it doesn’t hammer. That adds up to 2.5”- 3” of travel lost on a slow flex when the straps are not stretching dynamically.
 
Pitbullcruiser said:
Elrod's limit straps have a piece of round aluminum at the tab to prevent cutting. Off-Road Parts | Orangevale, CA | 916-878-8802
eRHw65lFxkrnQUtcprfjY=w854-h641-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
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Elrod makes the nicest straps. Stitches are straight.
I already had some Kartek straps for the front and got some PRPs for the rear. For a while almost all the private label straps were the same garbage, stitches all over the place. The new PRP set used a better webbing and the stitches were straight and centered.
 
Rockwood said:
Adjustable Clevis on one end is a must, especially if you're using the strap to stop components from binding.
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measure them properly the first time and you dont need the clevis

your limit straps should NOT be preventing components from binding, they are there to protect the shocks, the shocks should be preventing components from binding. if you have components binding, you failed at setting up your suspension.
 
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mobil1syn said:
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measure them properly the first time and you dont need the clevis

your limit straps should NOT be preventing components from binding, they are there to protect the shocks, the shocks should be preventing components from binding. if you have components binding, you failed at setting up your suspension.
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Uh huh. I'm not saying to throw a fucking 18" shock at it when a 10" would've been fine and use the strap to stop the last 8". I'm talking 1/2-1" of shock travel here.

To me, bump geometry at minimum ground/chassis/body clearance is priority 1 since fucking up there causes back pain, and if you're running off-the-shelf bypasses, you're not taking full advantage of the bump stages. This can result in compromises at full droop when buying shocks in inch increments and larger motion ratios. Or the ideal spot for your limit strap doesn't work out to match up with inch increments. In these cases, the clevis lets you ignore that and dial it in perfectly, especially when dealing with CVs on IFS shit.

Also: if you weld in non-adjustable mounts, what do you do when the strap stretches permanently throughout its life? Limit straps stretch under load AND over time, so your perfect and permanent setup when new is too long a year from now, or was too short at the beginning.

Also also: if your current limit strap isn't available anymore and you have to switch brands, or the manufacturer changes their secret sauce, or whatever, you're stuck.


To me, that $20 clevis is worth the effort, but I get it: I'm running the risk of breaking shit should the strap fail. Inspect often fuckers! :flipoff2:


Granted: most of my limit strap use is with buggies, where you're trying to get last mm of travel out of those CVs. :flipoff2:
 
if your strap stretches, that's when you replace it.

Back in the days when I crewed Jeepspeed in Baja the only strap failures were ones with the adjustment. Junk.

First the strap breaks, then the shock brakes about a mile later.
 
Beat95yj said:
if your strap stretches, that's when you replace it.

Back in the days when I crewed Jeepspeed in Baja the only strap failures were ones with the adjustment. Junk.

First the strap breaks, then the shock brakes about a mile later.
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Some asshole (definitely NOT me :flipoff2:) thought we bought the wrong straps when we replaced a buddy's straps on his buggy. Kartek only had 1 pair in the correct size in stock, so we ran them for a weekend. Bought another pair (he prefers to run double straps for redundancy, 934s are expensive) prior to the next trip, went to install them and they were too short.

They stretch from day 1.

Never had a clevis fail. :flipoff2:
 
Rockwood said:
Some asshole (definitely NOT me :flipoff2:) thought we bought the wrong straps when we replaced a buddy's straps on his buggy. Kartek only had 1 pair in the correct size in stock, so we ran them for a weekend. Bought another pair (he prefers to run double straps for redundancy, 934s are expensive) prior to the next trip, went to install them and they were too short.

They stretch from day 1.

Never had a clevis fail. :flipoff2:
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1. Always run quad wrap.

2. If you’re racing double up.
 
Oh, on topic, I run limit straps on my last two TJ’s. Even on the front of the LJ, that does not have coil covers upfront. Still has Fox 2.0’s.

I also have straps on the F100 that has not run in forever. Even with the rear leaf springs. Bypasses are expensive.

Funny story. When I first got hired into the shock industry, I was sent on a jeep run with our shock tech. I had never driven off-road myself. Had ridden with people. On the first obstacle of the first trail, I ripped apart the rear shock on the jeep. Luckily the tech that assembled it was with me and took it off. I would’ve looked a lot less if I had had a limit strap.
 
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