Lathe on bench setup

[aczlan]

Got a lathe a while back and finally got around to getting the bench for it cleared off and setting it on there.
Any suggestions on where to put it front to back on the bench, or and I going to hate having it on the bench and want to mount it on a purpose built stand?
The bench is made of 2x8 and 2x10 boards with a 36" solid door screwed down to the boards on top.

The lathe:

If I read the label on the cover correctly, these gears are for threading?

The location:

Aaron Z

 

[JNHEscher]

Second pic - the knob changes between forward and reverse of the lead screw

Third pic- yep, those gears are for driving the lead screw which allows for threading. Changing the gears to change the ratio will change the thread pitch, or if you're just turning pieces, it changes your feedrate.



Personally, I like to let the saddle and cross slide wheels hang over the edge of my bench. An advantage to not letting them do so is that you won't accidentally lean against either one and move it unintentionally.

 

[AlxJ64]

I'd agree with the above and have the addle and lead screw right at the edge. The only downside is then you end up with more chips on the floor than the table. I had a later version of this lathe on a bench that was setup similar. It was set back about an inch from the edge and I didn't notice any issues from that. Having the handles inside the table some though is nice to keep from bumping them, or if you don't wear an apron, you are less likely to get any material from a shirt caught by the lead screw.

 

[aczlan]

Thanks for the confirmation on what the knobs do.

On location, I will pull it closer to the front edge, play with it a little to see if I want it right at the front, or set back so the handles are inside the top, bolt it down and level it.
Would I be better served by leveling the lathe, or the bench itself after bolting down the lathe?


Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[JNHEscher]

I suppose leveling depends on your work.

If you don't have any kind of chip tray, your oil drips will be pooling on the table and run in whichever direction is downhill.

You'll probably want to check for twist along the bed length. Just make sure you can stick shims under either foot in case you need to adjust for that. Wood tends to move, so I think I would make sure I could account for that with machine leveling.

 

[aczlan]

I suppose leveling depends on your work.

If you don't have any kind of chip tray, your oil drips will be pooling on the table and run in whichever direction is downhill.

I should probably figure out something for that before I finalize the mounting points.
I have a full sheet baking tray that might fit and should catch any drips.

You'll probably want to check for twist along the bed length.

It's flat side to side, currently down a little at the motor end, but it's not bolted down.
I may see if I have enough plate available to put under it so the "feet" can't dig into the wood.

Just make sure you can stick shims under either foot in case you need to adjust for that. Wood tends to move, so I think I would make sure I could account for that with machine leveling.

I was planning on a bolt through the bench for each of the 3 bolt holes, shouldn't be a big deal to loosen it up and put shims under it if need be.

Anything particular that I should use to lubricate the rails of the bed?

Aaron Z

 

[JNHEscher]

Anything particular that I should use to lubricate the rails of the bed?

Aaron Z

I usually use whatever leftover oils I have or a can of WD-40 nearby. No oiling system on my lathe, so what drips onto the bed is what it gets. I keep a paint brush and old tee shirt handy for clearing chips and wiping the ways down.

 

[bgaidan]

Anything particular that I should use to lubricate the rails of the bed?

You should be using way oil for the ways. It's heavier/stickier than most oils you'd have kicking around....except maybe something like bar & chain oil


Pretty sure Atlas called out Vactra #2 for the ways and 2w for the bearings (all the little oil cups you see around the headstock).

You can buy smaller bottles of both on ebay and they should be more than enough to last you several years.

NEW ATLAS CRAFTSMAN LATHE OIL COMBO SET SPINDLE AND WAY OIL 2 NEW 8 OZ BOTTLES | eBay

2 NEW 8 OUNCE BOTTLES OF WAY AND SPINDLE OIL FOR ALL ATLAS CRAFTSMAN LATHES. PERFECT FOR SPINDLE BEARINGS, GEARS AND WAYS. SUNOCO TOP QUALITY OIL.

www.ebay.com

 

[aczlan]

You should be using way oil for the ways. It's heavier/stickier than most oils you'd have kicking around....except maybe something like bar & chain oil


Pretty sure Atlas called out Vactra #2 for the ways and 2w for the bearings (all the little oil cups you see around the headstock).

You can buy smaller bottles of both on ebay and they should be more than enough to last you several years.

NEW ATLAS CRAFTSMAN LATHE OIL COMBO SET SPINDLE AND WAY OIL 2 NEW 8 OZ BOTTLES | eBay

2 NEW 8 OUNCE BOTTLES OF WAY AND SPINDLE OIL FOR ALL ATLAS CRAFTSMAN LATHES. PERFECT FOR SPINDLE BEARINGS, GEARS AND WAYS. SUNOCO TOP QUALITY OIL.

www.ebay.com

Thanks for the link, will have to look at that.
I think when I got it I'd found and downloaded the manual, need to dig it out from my download folder and read through it.

How do I remove the chuck to change it out for a different one? It came with the three jaw that is in there, a four jaw, as well as one that looks like a standard drill chuck.

It also has the stand to go at the far end of the ways with what looks like possibly a live center in it?

Have to get some pictures of the other tooling that came with it, it has a fair amount of tools, four or five tool holders of various shapes and a couple other attachments of various kinds.

Aaron Z

 

[WaterH]

I would want it closer to the edge. Sometime you’re going to be running a file or sand paper on the piece and you don’t want to be leaning over that bench.

 

[aczlan]

Tailstock (not live center), motor in the background (need to replace the wiring on the motor as its crackly):

4 jaw chuck, tool holder, tapered reducer, drill chuck, live center and something? (long round thing, right end in the picture expands and has a collar to lock it down onto something like a tap handle would, but for round things)

Tool holders:

A drillbit and centers?

Drillbits, a drawknife and some other random things:

Reamers, drillbits and?

Drillbits:

On the motor, it currently has what looks like a dryer or washer motor on it, would I regret setting it up with a speed controlled motor (I have several DC treadmill motors with control boards that would just need a pot for speed control and a forward/reverse switch)?

Aaron Z

 

[AK_F250]

I had a similar atlas (craftsman) mounted on a steel bench, no issues there. Like others have said you'll want it on the edge, and by the time the motor mounted it'll be pushed out some anyway.

Mine had a RH thread chuck, and if that's the case with yours I'd think really hard about adding reverse since it'll be useless for anything other spinning the chuck off at high speed.

That little 4 jaw is interesting. It's tapered, but long so I wonder if it's meant to go through the 3 jaw and seat in the headstock then get clamped in the 3 jaw? The taper looks too small for that lathe though, that's probably an MT2 tailstock and MT3 headstock.

I'd grab a cheap toolpost like this one and some amazon or HF chinese tooling to play around with.

HHIP 3900-5910 AXA 6 Pc Set - Piston Type (251-100): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

HHIP 3900-5910 AXA 6 Pc Set - Piston Type (251-100): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

 

[AlxJ64]

The big long thing looks like a Collet Draw bar. My Atlas had one too and it was extremely useful for doing small things. I had some square stock collets for it too and a few blanks that hadn't been drilled yet that I drilled out for some weird size projects.

 

[bgaidan]

How do I remove the chuck to change it out for a different one? It came with the three jaw that is in there, a four jaw, as well as one that looks like a standard drill chuck.

I usually lock the back gear in and insert the chuck key and use it for leverage to spin the chuck off. Shouldn't be on there super tight....though depending how long it's been sitting it could be tighter than it should be.

Let's see the back of that 4 jaw. Not sure what's going on there. Is it "live" by any chance? Does it spin on that taper shank it's mounted to?

The big long thing looks like a Collet Draw bar. My Atlas had one too and it was extremely useful for doing small things. I had some square stock collets for it too and a few blanks that hadn't been drilled yet that I drilled out for some weird size projects.

Those things are getting harder to fine...and usually go for a few hundred bucks on ebay. Great score.

 

[aczlan]

I had a similar atlas (craftsman) mounted on a steel bench, no issues there. Like others have said you'll want it on the edge, and by the time the motor mounted it'll be pushed out some anyway.

The bench is 36 in deep, so I have plenty of depth. I will bring it out probably so that the controls are just inside the edge and see how that works. Worst case I can move it out a little more. That makes it so I could probably put shelves or tools in cases, or something behind it.

Mine had a RH thread chuck, and if that's the case with yours I'd think really hard about adding reverse since it'll be useless for anything other spinning the chuck off at high speed.

I didn't realize how that was attached, reverse wouldn't be much use that way.

That little 4 jaw is interesting. It's tapered, but long so I wonder if it's meant to go through the 3 jaw and seat in the headstock then get clamped in the 3 jaw? The taper looks too small for that lathe though, that's probably an MT2 tailstock and MT3 headstock.

From what I can see (not having measured anything yet), I would guess that the four jaw is a MT2 and everything else (the drill chuck and the bits that are tapered) are all MT3.
Perhaps the adapter is MT2 to MT3?

I'd grab a cheap toolpost like this one and some amazon or HF chinese tooling to play around with.

HHIP 3900-5910 AXA 6 Pc Set - Piston Type (251-100): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

HHIP 3900-5910 AXA 6 Pc Set - Piston Type (251-100): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

Need to watch some videos and play with what I have to see how the various pieces play together, but that looks like it might be easier for changing tools out.
Looks like I didn't take a picture of all the tooling that came with it, there's enough to put the better part of a full layer on the drawer full of drill bits that I posted a picture of.

The big long thing looks like a Collet Draw bar. My Atlas had one too and it was extremely useful for doing small things. I had some square stock collets for it too and a few blanks that hadn't been drilled yet that I drilled out for some weird size projects.

Looking it up, that appears to what it is. Found a picture of somebody else with a very similar lathe that has a identical looking Collet draw bar in it.

I usually lock the back gear in and insert the chuck key and use it for leverage to spin the chuck off. Shouldn't be on there super tight....though depending how long it's been sitting it could be tighter than it should be.

I will have to try that.

Let's see the back of that 4 jaw. Not sure what's going on there. Is it "live" by any chance? Does it spin on that taper shank it's mounted to?

I don't think it's live, it seemed firmly mounted, I will try to get a picture tomorrow.

Those things are getting harder to fine...and usually go for a few hundred bucks on ebay. Great score.

I'm impressed with everything that's there, didn't realize what I was getting when the neighbor dropped it off a couple years back and I'm finally getting around to organizing the shop where I have space to set it up.


Aaron Z

 

[AK_F250]

When you knock the 3 jaw off measure the threads. I might have a 4 jaw and/or face plate and some other odds and ends in the shed that aren't doing me any good that I could throw in a few flat rate boxes. Not 100% sure what happened to all my odds and ends since I got a bigger lathe, but I'd gladly pass them along if they'll fit and you cover shipping.

 

[aczlan]

When you knock the 3 jaw off measure the threads. I might have a 4 jaw and/or face plate and some other odds and ends in the shed that aren't doing me any good that I could throw in a few flat rate boxes. Not 100% sure what happened to all my odds and ends since I got a bigger lathe, but I'd gladly pass them along if they'll fit and you cover shipping.

Let me know the box sizes and I can send you labels, or I can PayPal you money to pay for shipping.

bgaidan here is the back of the 4 jaw, does not spin, looks like the taper should thread off of the back of the chuck:

Aaron Z

 

[bgaidan]

When you knock the 3 jaw off measure the threads. I might have a 4 jaw and/or face plate and some other odds and ends in the shed that aren't doing me any good that I could throw in a few flat rate boxes. Not 100% sure what happened to all my odds and ends since I got a bigger lathe, but I'd gladly pass them along if they'll fit and you cover shipping.

It'll be 1-1/2"-8 spindle thread. All Atlas/Craftsman 10" & 12" lathes have the same spindle. I think some of the other similar sized brands also used the same thread.

Let me know the box sizes and I can send you labels, or I can PayPal you money to pay for shipping.

bgaidan here is the back of the 4 jaw, does not spin, looks like the taper should thread off of the back of the chuck:

Aaron Z

Weird. No idea what's going on there. Doesn't look like it's got the right threads for the spindle under there. Probably what someone else said above - just chuck that shaft in the 3 jaw and you have an instant 4 jaw.. Not ideal, but it'll work.

 

[aczlan]

It'll be 1-1/2"-8 spindle thread. All Atlas/Craftsman 10" & 12" lathes have the same spindle. I think some of the other similar sized brands also used the same thread.

It is indeed inch and a half with eight threads per inch.

Weird. No idea what's going on there. Doesn't look like it's got the right threads for the spindle under there. Probably what someone else said above - just chuck that shaft in the 3 jaw and you have an instant 4 jaw.. Not ideal, but it'll work

Looking at the face, it says Dunlap 1111703

Sears Dunlap 1111703 3" Diameter 4 Independent Jaw Chuck Lathe Attachment Tool | #533949452

Sears Dunlap 1111703 3 Diameter 4 Independent Jaw Chuck Lathe Attachment Tool Tool may have some signs of wear and age as seen in pictures. Item shipped with Tracking Number and Delivery Confirmation

www.worthpoint.com

It will chuck into the three jaw with the ring around the back, but I don't think that's how it was intended to be used.
I'll have to talk to the neighbor and see, he kept a wood lathe that I think came from the same estate and I wonder if this was set up to go on the wood lathe, there were a handful of wood turning tools in one of the boxes and if he brought them all home at the same time they may have gotten mixed together.

More pictures:

The widest part of the taper reads as 0.47 in and the narrowest reads as 0.37 and the length of the taper is approximately 2.08 in (for my trusty cheapo harbor freight digital micrometer).

It looks like I could pull the four screws from the front and remove the four jaw chuck from this backing plate, but I'm not sure that would gain me anything.

Aaron Z

 

[bgaidan]

That's really weird. That's like 3 adapters stacked on top of each other.


I'm 99% sure the chuck itself is from a 6" Dunlap lathe that was also sold under the craftsman name. There should be a 1/2"-20 hole under all that other shit. No idea what they were trying to accomplish with all that.


Pretty sure that's the same chuck:

 

[bgaidan]

Also - look through your boxes and see if you find another set of jaws for the 3-jaw. You have inside jaws in it right now. If you have outside jaws you could get a better bite on that 4-jaw.

Edit:

Looking closer at your 3-jaw, that appears to be a really nice, higher end chuck. Your jaws are actually bolt-on and reversible so you only need one set. Cheaper ones usually have two sets of jaws for inside/outside. There should be allen bolts holder the outer portion of the jaw to the base. Just pop those out, flip the jaw around 180 and re-bolt. Just make sure the same outer piece stays with the same base.

FYI - that chuck looks like a Buck "Adjust-Tru" style. You can basically dial it in like 4-jaw. Can't see how it's attached to the back plate but you'd basically loosen it just a tad and then use those 4 allen sockets around the perimeter to dial it in. I'd pick up a piece of precision ground bar (something like 1/2" diamter x 6" works perfectly) - make sure the jaws are clean and then chuck up the bar and indicate on that to dial the chuck in.

That can basically give you a three jaw, which you can normally expect to have a least a few thou runout, to give you 4-jaw quality runout. I had my buck dialed in to under half a thou.

 

[aczlan]

Thanks for the info.

The chuck has 6 screws that go into the backplate and hold it in, will have to take a look at adjusting it (and get some indicators so I can do that).

Edit: looks like it is a Buck Tools 1443 chuck:

Have to see if both the inner and outer allen head screws go into the backplate

Talked to the neighbor and he said the 4 jaw was in with the 3 jaw stuff, he said they just packed it all up and brought it home.

Looking at the back plate of the 4 jaw, it looks like it was chucked into the 3 jaw a few times, there are sets of marks where it was chucked in and the jaws dug in a little.



Aaron Z

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

I would want it closer to the edge. Sometime you’re going to be running a file or sand paper on the piece and you don’t want to be leaning over that bench.

exactly this
your poor posture will thank you a few years from now

and maybe a pan under it, something like the oil drip auto thingys?

https://a.co/d/4jkpZ1E

mess is going to happen so matter what, but that will contain a little of it

 

[bgaidan]

Thanks for the info.

The chuck has 6 screws that go into the backplate and hold it in, will have to take a look at adjusting it (and get some indicators so I can do that).

Edit: looks like it is a Buck Tools 1443 chuck:

Have to see if both the inner and outer allen head screws go into the backplate

Talked to the neighbor and he said the 4 jaw was in with the 3 jaw stuff, he said they just packed it all up and brought it home.

Looking at the back plate of the 4 jaw, it looks like it was chucked into the 3 jaw a few times, there are sets of marks where it was chucked in and the jaws dug in a little.



Aaron Z

I think I have the same exact chuck on a custom backplate for my 12" Craftsman.....except I can't seem to find the damn thing.

The side pics made it look like those were reversible jaws....but like mine, they're now. Check your tooling boxes and see if you have another set of jaws. Hopefully you do as you really can't get replacements.

 

[aczlan]

I think I have the same exact chuck on a custom backplate for my 12" Craftsman.....except I can't seem to find the damn thing.

I have that problem far too often in my shop, I know I have X, if only I could figure out where I put it...

The side pics made it look like those were reversible jaws....but like mine, they're now. Check your tooling boxes and see if you have another set of jaws. Hopefully you do as you really can't get replacements.

Sadly, no jaws in the tooling.

Aaron Z

 

[WaterH]

That’s interesting way to mount a four jaw. My four jaw is so heavy, it’s a PITA to mount. I should get a small one to mount like that. I hardly ever use one though.

 

[SomeGuy]

Way late to the party, but this is what I built for mine:



I very much like having the bit of ledge at the front where I can set down tooling in front of the machine when quickly switching between stuff.

 

[4Eyedturd]

Does anyone make covers for bench top lathes? Just to keep grinding or saw dust and other random shit off of it? Or is it not even worth messing with?

 

[JNHEscher]

Does anyone make covers for bench top lathes? Just to keep grinding or saw dust and other random shit off of it? Or is it not even worth messing with?

I bought one of the long, plastic totes from Home Depot to cover mine. I just have a MicroMark 7x16, though.

 

[Firstram]

Does anyone make covers for bench top lathes? Just to keep grinding or saw dust and other random shit off of it? Or is it not even worth messing with?

Just use an old sheet or light blanket and keep it oiled. Avoid anything that doesn't breathe, it will trap moisture.