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John Deere 450E Stupid Question

Lee said:
Milwaukee 18V or DeWalt 20V? I'm not as interested in Lincoln's electric guns, unless they're that much better, since I've already got the red and yellow batteries.
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We started with a pile of the Dewalts. If you got a good one, they did ok. Had a bunch that were pretty finicky about getting the air bled out of them.

Used the shit out of a lincoln. It was just ok. Not finicky, but didnt have much snort and was a lil on the slow side. Different batteries and charger than the rest of your tools too......

Go red we had a lot less problems with them. They just worked

Careful greasing stuff with an electric gun. You can overdo it pretty easy. Sometimes cause more harm than good
 
I'd stick with red or yellow. I do yellow and am happy with my guns, I couldn't find mine for 3 months so I bought another, and it turned up a week later, as expected:laughing:
 
If you can't get the other side to take any more grease measure how much rod is sticking out and compare to the other side. The adjuster may be at max stroke
 
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My yellow one seems pretty sweet but ai havnt used a red one. When attempting to tighten the tracks on my neighbors d4 the manual one wasn't cutting it so we used his pneumatic one out of a huge grease barrel
 
Steve300xcw said:
Careful greasing stuff with an electric gun. You can overdo it pretty easy. Sometimes cause more harm than good
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I watched an old boss of mine split the front portal in half on his Kubota BX 4x4 lawn tractor greasing the upper pivot point with a yellow grease gun. At the time the tractor was less than a month old and that stupidity wasn't covered under warranty. We tried warning him before he started greasing it....... :lmao:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Fixed
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I'll stick with the actual real ones.


I have a teal gun and it works well for me. The roller don't use regular grease though and it's a low pressure unit from what I've been told .got a case of cob oil grease with mine. You may already know that.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I watched an old boss of mine split the front portal in half on his Kubota BX 4x4 lawn tractor greasing the upper pivot point with a yellow grease gun. At the time the tractor was less than a month old and that stupidity wasn't covered under warranty. We tried warning him before he started greasing it....... :lmao:
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Air grease gun...zerk on the trans for a truck......... :laughing:
 
2big bronco said:
My yellow one seems pretty sweet but ai havnt used a red one. When attempting to tighten the tracks on my neighbors d4 the manual one wasn't cutting it so we used his pneumatic one out of a huge grease barrel
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I stopped in the little, rural, gas station/tow yard/auto/truck/farm shop to see if they had a beefier grease gun in stock. They had exactly one of those Lincolns I bought and a lower powered one about like I already had. Owner was curious about me stopping in and buying a grease gun that he couldn't even find in his system to sell me. When I told him what I was doing, he said something like, "good luck, I always use an air grease gun, it's going to take a lot of grease." as he chuckled at my predicament.
 
I'm basically a HD Diesel Mechanic now.

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Local JD dealer monopoly (they've bought 90% of the JD dealers in the state) wants $4K for a radiator. :eek::shaking::mad3:

$1,400-ish online is the best I've found.

It's going to one of the last radiator shops still around tomorrow to see if they can maybe patch it up. Hopefully they're willing and able. One of the tubes is leaking at the lower tank. I considered just JB Welding or attempting to sweat it back on. Pretty sure I could "fix" it, but I'm sure I'll wind up chasing the next weakest link, after the next weakest link, so I'm just going to pay a pro. I should have never put a new radiator cap on and just kept putting water in it, couldn't blow the rad tube out of the tank when it couldn't build pressure.

Pretty sure you're supposed to pull the nose off the thing to get the radiator out. See that 3/8" plate welded to the front under the grill opening... yeah, it goes back another 18-24" under the belly of the dozer. Bolts that held the upper end to the sides are gone, welded instead. Armor at the sake of serviceability, sure why not. :homer::shaking:

Had to cut the headlight mount and the gill cross members out, but you CAN get the radiator out through the grill opening. It SUCKS, but you can do it.
 
Lee said:
I'm basically a HD Diesel Mechanic now.

PXL_20240904_224330395.MP.jpg


PXL_20240904_224335332.MP.jpg



Local JD dealer monopoly (they've bought 90% of the JD dealers in the state) wants $4K for a radiator. :eek::shaking::mad3:

$1,400-ish online is the best I've found.

It's going to one of the last radiator shops still around tomorrow to see if they can maybe patch it up. Hopefully they're willing and able. One of the tubes is leaking at the lower tank. I considered just JB Welding or attempting to sweat it back on. Pretty sure I could "fix" it, but I'm sure I'll wind up chasing the next weakest link, after the next weakest link, so I'm just going to pay a pro. I should have never put a new radiator cap on and just kept putting water in it, couldn't blow the rad tube out of the tank when it couldn't build pressure.

Pretty sure you're supposed to pull the nose off the thing to get the radiator out. See that 3/8" plate welded to the front under the grill opening... yeah, it goes back another 18-24" under the belly of the dozer. Bolts that held the upper end to the sides are gone, welded instead. Armor at the sake of serviceability, sure why not. :homer::shaking:

Had to cut the headlight mount and the gill cross members out, but you CAN get the radiator out through the grill opening. It SUCKS, but you can do it.
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Id start searcing amazon and ebay for a radiator that will fit. Hell, you could probably have a custom alluminum griffen made for those prices


Or ship it to the guys in india and have them do it for a bowl of curry
 
For what you're trying to do with it, anything that fits in the hole with a thick enough core will work. I'd be looking at racecar parts long before paying JD $4k.
 
Lee said:
I'm basically a HD Diesel Mechanic now.

PXL_20240904_224330395.MP.jpg


PXL_20240904_224335332.MP.jpg



Local JD dealer monopoly (they've bought 90% of the JD dealers in the state) wants $4K for a radiator. :eek::shaking::mad3:

$1,400-ish online is the best I've found.

It's going to one of the last radiator shops still around tomorrow to see if they can maybe patch it up. Hopefully they're willing and able. One of the tubes is leaking at the lower tank. I considered just JB Welding or attempting to sweat it back on. Pretty sure I could "fix" it, but I'm sure I'll wind up chasing the next weakest link, after the next weakest link, so I'm just going to pay a pro. I should have never put a new radiator cap on and just kept putting water in it, couldn't blow the rad tube out of the tank when it couldn't build pressure.

Pretty sure you're supposed to pull the nose off the thing to get the radiator out. See that 3/8" plate welded to the front under the grill opening... yeah, it goes back another 18-24" under the belly of the dozer. Bolts that held the upper end to the sides are gone, welded instead. Armor at the sake of serviceability, sure why not. :homer::shaking:

Had to cut the headlight mount and the gill cross members out, but you CAN get the radiator out through the grill opening. It SUCKS, but you can do it.
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you don't even have a work bench built out of scrap wood, and you don't have a tarp TeePee, you don't have plywood laid out so you don't sink in the mud while standing there, you don't have an extra 150' of airline coming from the shop, you don't have a radio set up ......you just getting going kiddo :grinpimp:
 
I have a customer who was quoted 20k for a radiator in a terra gator 8144 air boom spreader they just bought at auction for $7500. They didn't understand when I told them that low volume equipment that's more than 15 years old is going to cost significantly more than a mass produced radiator.
 
1oddtech said:
I have a customer who was quoted 20k for a radiator in a terra gator 8144 air boom spreader they just bought at auction for $7500. They didn't understand when I told them that low volume equipment that's more than 15 years old is going to cost significantly more than a mass produced radiator.
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That's retarded. :laughing:


Years ago when my besty worked for a big farm around here he took an old terra gator and extended the frame a couple feet and retrofit either a 400 Cummins or 3406b cat, I remember it was mechanical and had over double the power it came with and ended up with off the shelf big truck guts so it was fully serviceable in the future.
 
1oddtech said:
I have a customer who was quoted 20k for a radiator in a terra gator 8144 air boom spreader they just bought at auction for $7500. They didn't understand when I told them that low volume equipment that's more than 15 years old is going to cost significantly more than a mass produced radiator.
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Even the big brands consider it "antique" after ~20 years.

Yeah.. cause everyone has a few million sitting around to buy new stuff every ~10 years. :laughing:

Buy the time us poors are affording it, it's already been considered worn out by 3 or 4 owners.
 
2big bronco said:
Id start searcing amazon and ebay for a radiator that will fit. Hell, you could probably have a custom alluminum griffen made for those prices


Or ship it to the guys in india and have them do it for a bowl of curry
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AKnate said:
Even the big brands consider it "antique" after ~20 years.

Yeah.. cause everyone has a few million sitting around to buy new stuff every ~10 years. :laughing:

Buy the time us poors are affording it, it's already been considered worn out by 3 or 4 owners.
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I'll buy an aluminum DIY radiator with blank tanks and a FB Marketplace Tig welder and make my own radiator, before I give those green and yellow crooks $4K for a replacement. I could do all of that and still save $3K+.

 
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