John Deere 450E Stupid Question

[Lee]

The hose between the hard line and transmission filter blew.

Bad hose:

I doubt this is original, it's an '84-ish model with 5K hours on it. That hose is way longer than it needs to be. Notice the 3 hose clamps. The middle one is about where the end of that bottom hard line is.

The hard line is 7/8" OD. I bought some fuel/oil safe 7/8" ID hose online. The angle of that bottom hard line has my new hose darn near kinked to be able to make the angle from the filter housing to the hard line. You can see the hose I'm replacing is blown out in the bend.

I originally thought John Deere must sell a $$$ molded hose for this, or maybe I'm missing a cooler that's been bypassed, but according to the parts diagram it's just hose. Part #14 in the diagram says, "cut from bulk hose."

What am I missing? Why is that hard line #7 in the diagram so bent?

Random google image of the bent hard line #7 looks just like mine.

I've used springs inside of heater hose and and coolant hoses before to stop them from kinking. Should I do this here too? I don't think my hard line is bent more than it should be, but I can't imagine how anything that's flexible enough to go in its place and be held in place with hose clamps isn't going to kink.

 

[Projectjunkie]

The extra hose clamp was to keep it from kinking there.

I was cummins swapping a truck and needed to do it. My buddy shrugs and days he's seen it on high dollar race cars. Fuggit, clamps as needed

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

If anything, it looks like that hard line needs to be at a different angle...

Almost like it needs to be 90° at the bottom and exit straight up.

Or, slap a new.hose on it every 3K hours

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

I wouldn't over think it
maybe that way just to aide you sliding that thing on there

My Komatsu has a similar set up

as far as repairs go, buy extra hose, trim as necessary , this repair is cheap and easy

 

[subybaja]

Someone in the homemade tools thread had a pair of Visegrips that cripmed that flare in the end of hardline, one bite at a time.

You could get rid of the bent end, reflare, and use longer hose.

 

[M92PV4U]

I don't think that fuel line was the correct hose for this application.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Your hardline is bent. The pic and part listing show the bottom at 90 degrees, yours isn't. Bend it back twards the cooler.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

Your hardline is bent. The pic and part listing show the bottom at 90 degrees, yours isn't. Bend it back twards the cooler.

and it looks like the soft hose is 4" too long

 

[MoparMoe]

Make it a 90 and call it fixed , Ive got a 450C that is similar

 

[Lee]

I don't think that fuel line was the correct hose for this application.

It's 300PSI fuel/oil hose. It's not under a lot of pressure, part #4 in that diagram is a worm gear hose clamp JD part# AR21839. I called NAPA and a few other places, only thing anyone local had that size was heater hose. I used Oetiker ear clamps instead of worm gear clamps. 🤷‍♂️

Your hardline is bent. The pic and part listing show the bottom at 90 degrees, yours isn't. Bend it back twards the cooler.

I was ready to argue with you at first, but I think I see what you're talking about now. I think you may be right, that it's greater than 90° on that bottom bend. I actually tried manhandling it a little before I knew what it was supposed to look at, I pushed on it pretty hard to see if I could make it line up a little better, but it didn't move any. More it moved right back where it was when I quit pushing on it. Not sure I can bend it back to 90° in situ.

and it looks like the soft hose is 4" too long

Yeah I addressed that in the OP. Some folks are claiming that somehow prevents kinking.

 

[M92PV4U]

It's 300PSI fuel/oil hose. It's not under a lot of press

Ok. I've used fuel line for oil service before and it didn't hold up well. The only reason that I brought it up.

 

[D Nelly]

Could you put a longer hose in it with a loop?

 

[Lee]

Probably going to jinx myself, but this seems to be holding up. After it blew off the 2nd time, I ditched the Oetiker ear clamps in favor of these constant tension hose clamps. Tail is internal so they don't cut into the hose, expensive boogers, $7 a piece. The real fix though was to put a spring inside of the hose to keep it from kinking. I think the Oetiker clamps would have worked if I'd paid better attention to the spring placement when I first installed it. It's made it through about 20 stumps and no leaks.

I think this will last a while, but I want to cut the hard line below the bend, braze/weld an AN fitting on it, replace the nipple on the filter housing with an AN fitting and run a braided line between them... It's good to want things.

 

[Lee]

Here's my new stupid question.

Trying to tension the track. The yoke doesn't look anything like the yoke in the operators manual. It's closer to the "replacement yoke" in JD's online parts diagram but it's not exactly the same.

I need to get at least one grease check valve, I think I have that figured out, part # AT159554. What has me scratching my head is the threaded hole below the check valve. Didn't know it was there until I removed the caked on mud. I assume something is supposed to be there? It's missing on both sides.

JD's parts diagram shows a version of the "replacement yoke" with 2 holes kind of like what I've got, but it's turned 90° from what I've got. That diagram calls for a pipe plug in the hole next to the check valve. Safe to assume that pipe plug is what I'm missing?

What I'm working with:

Offending part.

Something should be in that hole right?

This is the yoke that's in my operators manual:

This is the "replacement yoke," it's closer to what I have: https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/72859/referrer/navigation/pgId/633

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

I own a Komatsu dozer not a JD, but I am willing to be there is an example of what needs to be in the hole on the other track

I just worked on my dozer a month or so ago, and Im not even sure there is a 'check valve' in there

 

[Steve300xcw]

I am willing to bet there is an example of what needs to be in the hole on the other track

 

[Lee]

I own a Komatsu dozer not a JD, but I am willing to be there is an example of what needs to be in the hole on the other track

I just worked on my dozer a month or so ago, and Im not even sure there is a 'check valve' in there

I've been known to do dumb things but I did check both sides. Just an empty threaded hole on both sides.

 

[Mach1]

Here's my new stupid question.

Trying to tension the track. The yoke doesn't look anything like the yoke in the operators manual. It's closer to the "replacement yoke" in JD's online parts diagram but it's not exactly the same.

I need to get at least one grease check valve, I think I have that figured out, part # AT159554. What has me scratching my head is the threaded hole below the check valve. Didn't know it was there until I removed the caked on mud. I assume something is supposed to be there? It's missing on both sides.

JD's parts diagram shows a version of the "replacement yoke" with 2 holes kind of like what I've got, but it's turned 90° from what I've got. That diagram calls for a pipe plug in the hole next to the check valve. Safe to assume that pipe plug is what I'm missing?

What I'm working with:

Offending part.

Something should be in that hole right?

This is the yoke that's in my operators manual:

This is the "replacement yoke," it's closer to what I have: https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/72859/referrer/navigation/pgId/633

That hole is where the grease pressure gets released from when you loosen the check to let tension off the tracks. You don’t need a pipe plug in there and most people are lazy so they don’t get put back

 

[Lee]

That hole is where the grease pressure gets released from when you loosen the check to let tension off the tracks. You don’t need a pipe plug in there and most people are lazy so they don’t get put back

I was leaning that way. I'm not sure how though, what's in the bottom of that hole? I sprayed and picked at them until I ran out of brake cleaner and didn't really come to a conclusion.

Father-in-law used to operated and work on dozers for the state forestry commission for a couple decades plus, he's telling me it's a bolt hole for a missing cover, that's supposed to protect that grease zerk that tensions the yoke.

 

[M92PV4U]

bolt hole

Stick different bolts in there and see if they are bolt threads.

 

[1oddtech]

Same part as yours it's just the E models didn't use the shield that the G models had

 

[Mach1]

I was leaning that way. I'm not sure how though, what's in the bottom of that hole? I sprayed and picked at them until I ran out of brake cleaner and didn't really come to a conclusion.

Father-in-law used to operated and work on dozers for the state forestry commission for a couple decades plus, he's telling me it's a bolt hole for a missing cover, that's supposed to protect that grease zerk that tensions the yoke.

That is possible too. It’s been a minute since I worked on one

 

[Lee]

Same part as yours it's just the E models didn't use the shield that the G models had

Same part # for the check valve too! I don't think mine has the holes in the ears for the cover to mount to, but otherwise looks like that. Good looking out, thanks!

 

[1oddtech]

 

[Lee]

I owe you a beer or two 1oddtech!

I joined a John Deere Crawlers FB group and while they have been welcoming and friendly they've been mostly useless for info.

Thankfully Irate knows all!

I managed to find the check valves for $55 a piece, they're $90+ most places, but those stupid covers I don't have are almost $50 a piece.

JD wants $54 for a coolant sending unit. I noticed it has Steward Warner gauges, so I was able to cross reference to a SW sender for $23 on Summit.

 

[1oddtech]

14 years as a Deere tech you learn a few things

 

[Lee]

New Valves mostly worked.

I had to buy a MAN's grease gun, my pistol grip wasn't going to do it and I couldn't find my lever style. Turns out it was in the battery box on the dozer.

Just the one side took nearly an entire tube of grease.

It's a heck of a lot better than it was. Book calls for between 7/8" and 1-1/8" sag between the middle idler and front tensioner wheel. Best as I could tell with a straight edge and tape measure I'm 2-1/4" ish of sag still. However I physically could not put any more grease in it, with that new 10K PSI Lincoln gun and a 2' cheater pipe on the handle I couldn't put any more in it. I've ran it for about 6 hours since tightening it. Treads make the clackity, clackity, clackity, sound again.

I replaced the check valve/zerk on the other side too. It wasn't near as loose as the one above, but I could barely get any grease in it. Struggled to keep the grease gun on the zerk even, wasted 1/2 a tube squirting around the zerk fitting. I guess the rod is maybe stuck in the tensioner yoke? I removed the check valve and it bled off obviously new grease, so some went in there, but the rod never extended and the yoke never moved. Yes we loosened the bolts first.

I've got a 36" Flexzilla hose and a Lock N Lube fitting for the grease gun ordered, in hopes that I can just sit the grease gun on the track and pump it, it's pretty unwieldy otherwise.

I let Jewels pump for a while. "She said, don't they make electric grease guns? Why don't you have one of those?"

Milwaukee 18V or DeWalt 20V? I'm not as interested in Lincoln's electric guns, unless they're that much better, since I've already got the red and yellow batteries.

 

[Chevy_man]

Milwaukee grease gun has served me well. If you have both flavors of battery I'd get the cheapest assuming they do the same pressure.


I do know the Milwaukee being 2 speed is better at popping stuck zerks than a manual gun. Put it in 1 and hold on.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

The Lock n Lube sittings are worth the money, I have several of them now. I haven't ever needed an electric grease gun though.
The old grease will get hard and wont want to pump/flow.
I did have a fitting on the blade that refused to take grease once after sitting for a long time. I now have a port-a-power fitting that is 1/8NPT (or whatever it ended up being.) I just force fed it

 

[arse_sidewards]

The chinese knock off of the Lock n Lube fittings are worth the money,

Fixed