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It's always Tuesday- 04 Sierra 2500HD

How my day is going. . . in pictures.

On the way to work.

20231212_075826.jpg



Pulled in to parking stop, bumped the curb, and voila!

20231212_080221.jpg



Improved the view, but the gauges dropped out again. (truck is off)

20231212_114415.jpg



Looks like I need find more grounds to clean and inspect, and trace wires. Fun.
 
How my day is going. . . in pictures.

On the way to work.

20231212_075826.jpg



Pulled in to parking stop, bumped the curb, and voila!

20231212_080221.jpg



Improved the view, but the gauges dropped out again. (truck is off)

20231212_114415.jpg



Looks like I need find more grounds to clean and inspect, and trace wires. Fun.
Odds are it's the circuit board per:

Sounds like it might a failing cluster issue that plagues the 2003-2004 years. Total loss of power to the cluster is usually circuit board issues in these years, late 2004 and up clusters are redesigned circuit boards and do not have this failure. Unless it's a ground issue, which is a good possibility. G203 is the cluster ground which is under the top dash cover at the base of the A pillar. A clue would be if when the 4 ways come on with the left or right signal, they are dimmer than normal. Another possibility is the battery to body ground G100 from the battery to the lower left rad support. You could run a new ground wire from the engine to the body somewhere and see if it improves, then check G203. A bad ground might also explain the BCM codes, which is also grounded at G203.


Aaron Z
 
Odds are it's the circuit board per:




Aaron Z

Thanks for the link. I had the cluster rebuilt earlier this year which solved a parasitic draw issue. That link provides good info because I haven't checked the G203 and battery to left radiator support grounds. If neither work, I'll add another engine-body ground. Other search results said broken solder joints on the engine bay fuse block.
 
Thanks for the link. I had the cluster rebuilt earlier this year which solved a parasitic draw issue. That link provides good info because I haven't checked the G203 and battery to left radiator support grounds. If neither work, I'll add another engine-body ground. Other search results said broken solder joints on the engine bay fuse block.
Mine had a cold solder joint that started intermittently and continued to get worse.
 
it's been a while. . . and this turd is done. another 3/4 front shot. Updates since the last go around. .

1/2 ton chrome bumper raised via cutting bumper brackets, using solid metal spacers, and re-drilling the attachments in front of the tire. China re-pop lower valance was cut for the tow hooks. aftermarket fog lights mounted, grounded, just need to attached 12V constant and switched.

replaced hydroboost unit, bled brakes = much, much better.

removed faded tint.

replaced knock sensors, cam pos, and crank pos sensor. no codes for now.

rubbed, polished, waxed exterior. Revived the wheels via 1000g wet sand and high-speed polish using Flitz polish and rag balls.

20240825_192635.jpg
 
I think so. I sold the truck a week after the last post. The last round of fixes was cleaning, lubing, re-attaching, painting the grounds below the driver door and driver radiator mount. I also ran a ground wire from the driver side A-pillar over to the door frame.
 
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