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Is this gooseneck plate ok to use? Where to place it?

blakes

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
205
Messages
248
Loc
Storm Mountain CO
I recently picked up this 98 chevy 1ton 4x4 cab and chassis and need to install a GN plate. I typically tow my 22' trailer hauling around 1000 - 1500 gallons of water up the mountain where I live. Occasionally go wheeling and tow my crawler.

I've had good luck towing these loads with my old 75 gmc 1 ton (minus the fact that it's 2wd).

Pictured is an old GN plate that came off another truck and worked fine. Planning to bolt it to the frame with four 5/8" grade 8 bolts. The plate itself is 3/8" thick and bent a bit from previous towing.

Do I have this in the right place on the frame? Am I going to kill a bus load of nuns? If so, how many?

The neck on my trailer is 7' distance from the ball to the front of the trailer. I seem to have plenty of room.
 

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From what I've been around GN hitch's are usually centered directly over rear axle centerline on just a hair behind it (new chevy HD is like 4" behind but that seems bit out of the norm)

Personally I hate those plate style hitches since you cant get the ball out of your way and they always end up looking like a ruffles potato chip with bends and stress cracks, even the cheapo turn over ones with angle iron mounts seem a bit better but I can see using what you have and maybe weld on a piece of angle iron under it to try and flatten it back out.
 
Directly over the axle to 4" in front is what I have seen.

I would have to add some angle or square under the plate to stiffen it up. I would also bolt plate to the outside of the frame and weld it to the GN plate to put the retaining bolts in shear. The fact it's already bent is telling you it isn't strong enough.

I wouldn't be happy with 4 bolts down through the top of the plate and frame.
 
It'll probably work fine enough as is. Clearly it worked fine for the last guy. Probably worth fixing though.
 
I really like solid mounted gooseneck hitches... But I would not pull a trailer with that one.

The plate is too thin. It's already failed. You could support it with additional angle or bar stock to help with vertical deflection. Also, you should wrap the hitch around the outside of the frame rail and elongate those side supports at least 6" towards the rear of the truck to help with leverage.

The vertical weight is one thing, but the lateral force on take-off and stopping would rip the threads right out of 5/8 bolts, in my opinion.

Also, you will be much happier with the hitch ball located directly above the rear axle or only inches forward. The gap between the neck and the truck is important for off-camber turning and access to the truck bed (if you install one) once the trailer is hooked up.

A partially filled water tank is about the worst load for exploiting weak towing equipment.
 
I agree with the others, weld a piece of 2"x3" 3/8" wall tube under it from side to side to take out the "bend" add a piece of 4x4 or 6x6 angle on each side under that to grab the side of the frame as well as the top and move it so its no more than 4-6" in front of the axle centerline.

As it sits, I could see it twisting your frame rails in at the top and down.
Here are the Reese instructions which say ~1.5" in front of the axle center line:
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Source: https://www.reeseprod.com/product-assets/install/N30035.pdf

Aaron Z
 
I'm hoping to get this thing done and haul 1150 gallons of water up the mountain on Saturday night. I'll try to post a pic in snlc. It will be chained up on all 6 tires.

I always fill the tanks all the way up. Sloshing water sucks bad.

I think I have some angle iron in my shop to weld to the plate and to the sides of the frame.

So far I only have four bolts in the plate (that is all I had). Moved it from my shop all the way up my driveway.
 

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Every redneck in Texas uses a piece of C-channel welded to the frame with a hole cut out for a ball.

Still know several trucks running those, grossly overloaded, with hay yearly.
This. Was very popular prior to bolt on hitch kits. Pretty sure every 3/4 ton truck my dad had from the late 80s - early 2000s had one of those welded on by a local trailer manufacturer.
 
I’d reinforce it vertically, it looks like it’s bent from heavy tongue weight bouncing up and down. 3” channel would be fine.

One thing a lot of guys do to get the ball out of the way is build it into a “well” in the flatbed if you’re adding one. You’ve got to come up some with the crossmembers anyways. Have a plate that lifts out or is hinged and you’re good to go.
 
Every redneck in Texas uses a piece of C-channel welded to the frame with a hole cut out for a ball.

Still know several trucks running those, grossly overloaded, with hay yearly.
I did the same but installed a flip over ball mount in it.
 
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