snivilous
Well-known member
I didn't see anything on irate about the iBooster so wanted to start a thread about it now that I have some evidence of it being good for crawling. This is meant to give information and add options when it comes to braking, not to say it's better or worse than other options.
Summary:
I initially was turned on to the iBooster by the Youtube channel SuperFastMatt and he has an extensive video on it here:
Since I watched that video, I've installed two, one on a 1978 Toyota Hilux that weighs 2000lbs and now my buggy that weighs about 4000lbs with 40s and stock super duty brakes, and I also have a third unit waiting to be installed on my 1977 FJ40. The braking performance on the Hilux is stupid good, and arguably more so on the buggy. I originally bought a Wilwood manual brake setup from Busted Knuckle and did all the brake calculations and tried different pedals, but at the end of the day there was no getting around needing a long stroke from the pedal to get lots of mechanical advantage to get good braking performance. Hydro boost is it's own animal that I don't have knowledge of. Pneumatic (vacuum) assisted brakes are typically pretty huge, so was very intrigued by the iBooster.
I have driven my buggy twice with the iBooster, once around the neighborhood and once doing a sand hollow loop. I have a 4:1 pedal ratio, meaning the pedal has a total travel of about 5" and I have had plenty of braking to lock up my 40s with stock brakes. I barely have to touch the brakes and there is barely any effort, a child could do it all day. Additionally since it's ignition controlled, as long as my master kill switch is on I have full braking performance. The iBooster can also be tied into the CANBUS and linked to ABS and traction control (above my pay grade). The iBooster is extremely simple, has tons of braking performance, can function even if the engine is off at full power, and is very modular and runs about $500 or less all set and done.
Details:
The iBooster is built by Bosch for multiple OEMs, and my understanding is the unit is the exact same (there is a gen 1 and gen 2) and from the master cylinder onward is customized by the OEM. As I recall the buggy one came from a 2019 Honda Accord, the one in the Hilux might've also been an Accord, I think Chrysler Pacificas have them, Teslas have them, they are extremely common. The Hilux one I got with the master and brake reservoir for like $300, the buggy one a few months later was like $450 off ebay.
The iBooster is like a normal booster where it's ultimately a mechanical assembly that is assisted, in this case by an electric motor. The youtube video above goes into detailing taking the unit apart and explaining how it works, but what matters is that if the motor fails you still have manual braking. The system has multiple functions, but ultimately defaults to needing a simple harness between the computer and the motor, and from that to your wiring system. You supply 12V+ and Ground to the system, and an ignition signal to turn on, and that is it.
iBooster Vehicles (list from here: iBooster donor vehicles - EVcreate) -- note this isn't a comprehensive list and double check the model year has the booster you want before blindly buying one
Wiring instructions are here (screenshot below): Wiring the Tesla iBooster - EVcreate
Wiring kits in the US can be found here for $90, does not include the wiring (make sure it matches whatever generation they are): iBooster – Tulay's Wire Werks
iBoosters: I found all of mine on ebay by just searching "iBooster", they run around $300 typically and are in everything from Tesla, to Chrysler, to Hondas. There are physical difference between different vehicle's boosters, not all iboosters are externally identical.
-------Following Info is for a 18/19 Honda Accord's GEN 2 iBooster------
GEN 2 CAD MODEL (scan and approximate CAD model): iBooster Gen 2
Input: 1.25" stroke with a 1/4" eyelet clevis
Output: 2x (front/rear) M12x1.0 Bubble fittings (I use this adapter to convert to a M10x1.0 inverted: Amazon.com)
Dimensions: The booster portion is roughly a 9" circle that is 6.5" deep, with the master cylinder extending out of that
Master Cylinder: I don't have specifics of the master, but it seems to have a generic 2-bolt pattern and allows the master to be rotate either orientation.
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