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How to select and use limit straps?

Rob50lx

Rob50lx

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2020
Member Number
1660
Messages
91
I don't jump my Jeep and I like to maximize my articulation.
I need to add limit straps to my traditional shock and coil spring suspension. My 15" travel 6Pak shocks exceed the droop that my driveshafts can handle on a 2 post lift. Can I just use a single centered-mounted strap for each axle? Do I need 6 straps; 2 center-mounted for driveshafts, and 4 corner straps for each shock?
 
All you need is 4 straps; 1 in line with each shock. Size them so that driveshafts don't bind at full extension. Done. Keep in mind they will stretch an inch or two.
 
Eric said:
All you need is 4 straps; 1 in line with each shock. Size them so that driveshafts don't bind at full extension. Done. Keep in mind they will stretch an inch or two.
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The problem with setting 4 up at the shocks to protect the driveshaft is that I would have to limit the travel of the shocks to approximately 12" while my suspension can handle more droop when the other side is being stuffed into the fender. It isn't common for me to be in a situation where both sides are drooped at the same time besides on a lift.
 
Besides your driveshaft they also protect your shocks and brake-lines. Sounds like you should run 4 straps and lengthen your driveshaft.
 
Yeah basically you will need to get the driveshaft situation to use all the travel of the shocks or you will limit it and lose some of the shock travel to keep it all alive. Limit straps about 1" per 12" of strap length. so if the strap is 18" long, it will stretch to around 19.5" with the weight after being used. Account for that when setting it all up as well.
 
How is it so hard to understand what the op wants? It's a little unorthodox, but I don't see any reason to not run 1 per corner to limit shock top out and 1 at the diff to keep the dribeshafts happy.

Obviously some higher angle shafts would be better, but that can get expensive and possibly high maintenance.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
How is it so hard to understand what the op wants?
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i cant take anyone who uses these seriously.

1501-with-logo_2.jpg
 
It might not be Ricky Racer approved but if all you want to do is keep the driveshafts from binding then just run a strap on the top of each diff. You don’t need the straps at the shocks. Before every Jeep became a race car no one ran limit straps on the corners.
 
mobil1syn said:
i cant take anyone who uses these seriously.

1501-with-logo_2.jpg
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They work vary well for my intended use. My Jeep is dual purpose but still does great on the trails. I think it is funny how many JKs run high end reservoir, or bypass shocks and rarely see a dirt road let alone decent trail. I have modified my Metalcloak mounts to use the full travel they offer and there is no easy way to get a traditional 15" shock mounted on my Jeep at my 3.5" lifted height.
 
Rob50lx said:
They work vary well for my intended use. My Jeep is dual purpose but still does great on the trails. I think it is funny how many JKs run high end reservoir, or bypass shocks and rarely see a dirt road let alone decent trail. I have modified my Metalcloak mounts to use the full travel they offer and there is no easy way to get a traditional 15" shock mounted on my Jeep at my 3.5" lifted height.
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unless you reworked the entire suspension from scratch with a talented fabricator, you are suspension binds. 13" is the longest shock a jk can handle and even that that is pushing it.
 
mobil1syn said:
unless you reworked the entire suspension from scratch with a talented fabricator, you are suspension binds. 13" is the longest shock a jk can handle and even that that is pushing it.
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Thanks for telling me what my Jeep can do based on my shock selection. :flipoff2:
 
mobil1syn said:
your welcome.

the fact your drivetrain cant handle the suspension travel is a key indication your shock selection/suspension package sucks.
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Damm dude, who shit in your Wheaties?
I don't see the point in spending $1500-$2500 on custom hybrid 1410 shafts just so I can comfortably put the Jeep on a 2 post lift once a year. I don't jump the Jeep and a single limit strap will protect my driveshaft while still allowing for full articulation in the rocks. I like to keep my tires on the ground.
 
Rob50lx said:
Damm dude, who shit in your Wheaties?
I don't see the point in spending $1500-$2500 on custom hybrid 1410 shafts just so I can comfortably put the Jeep on a 2 post lift once a year. I don't jump the Jeep and a single limit strap will protect my driveshaft while still allowing for full articulation in the rocks. I like to keep my tires on the ground.
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Seems like you know what will work for you.

Not everyone is trying to be a U4 racer. :homer:
 
I must be thick-headed, I figure about $100-150 to lengthen your existing driveshaft... but aside from that.. I was going to say: "Wouldn't you want the travel for your drive shaft, shocks, and brake lines to all be within the same desired range and just limit it back about an inch from over-articulating to protect your investment?" but now I think I get where you're coming from.. you're not that worried about the shocks or brake lines, and the only way your drive shaft will over-extend is if the whole axle droops (in your case just on the lift).
 
holdmypocket said:
I must be thick-headed, I figure about $100-150 to lengthen your existing driveshaft... but aside from that.. I was going to say: "Wouldn't you want the travel for your drive shaft, shocks, and brake lines to all be within the same desired range and just limit it back about an inch from over-articulating to protect your investment?" but now I think I get where you're coming from.. you're not that worried about the shocks or brake lines, and the only way your drive shaft will over-extend is if the whole axle droops (in your case just on the lift).
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It's not the length, it's the angle on the joint :homer:
 
Short answer, center limit straps are fine and do succeed in protecting driveshafts nicely. Set it up so it pulls tight ~2" before full driveshaft bind so after stretch it isn't too long. I've had to put one on a previous build before it was able to get a 40* driveshaft made and it worked just fine.

It's not only on a lift that most rigs will reach full extension even if you don't jump it, front axles like to reach full extension going up steep waterfalls and rears like to reach full extension going down steep waterfalls, so it is worth protecting from that "what if" for sure.

Semi-related note, with that much travel on coil springs (even dual rates) I would expect you're unseating your coils by multiple inches, and that is something I like to avoid on all builds no matter what so I would still personally be planning to limit shock travel to at least that point
 
Rob50lx said:
Damm dude, who shit in your Wheaties?
I don't see the point in spending $1500-$2500 on custom hybrid 1410 shafts just so I can comfortably put the Jeep on a 2 post lift once a year. I don't jump the Jeep and a single limit strap will protect my driveshaft while still allowing for full articulation in the rocks. I like to keep my tires on the ground.
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no one, you question is fundamentally retarded. a suspension system shouldnt need limit straps to go on a lift, either its properly designed or its not. if you put a limit strap at each corner inboard of the shock you can limit vertical travel and not effect articulation. how do you plan on hooking up a center strap in the front, to the motor?

put jeep on the lift, raise the axle until the driveshaft is happy got another 1/2" on that. measure, buy the right length straps accounting for 1" of stretch per 12" of strap. straps should be a vertical pull as much as possble, dont use the stupid adjuster clevis's they sell. the self destruct. dont use ruffstuff straps, they stretch a lot and fast. a quad strap from poly, kartek, prp, etc is what you should use.

if its twice a year then here's your solution.

1inch-endless-ratchet-strap-01.jpg
 
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mobil1syn said:
no one, you question is fundamentally retarded. a suspension system shouldnt need limit straps to go on a lift, either its properly designed or its not. if you put a limit strap at each corner inboard of the shock you can limit vertical travel and not effect articulation. how do you plan on hooking up a center strap in the front, to the motor?

if its twice a year then here's your solution.
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damn dude... chill out.
 
If it's the driveshafts you're trying to protect, put limit straps at the driveshafts (you'll want two in the front, one in line with the driveshaft and one matching it on the other side so the axle doesn't air-out weird, the last thing you want is to land all crookedy if you do jump it) at the length needed to keep the driveshafts from binding.

If you're worried about pulling the shocks apart on articulation, put one on each corner to prevent that.

Stretch varies a bit, anywhere from 1/2" to 2" worth of stretch (also may vary by length of strap) is common.

It doesn't sound like you're worried about pulling the shocks apart, so I'd run three (maybe four) straps on your setup: one on top of the front diff to save the front driveshaft, one mirror'd off of the front diff to hang the axle level to the chassis if you do sky it, and one on the rear diff if you're worried about that driveshaft. The (maybe four) is if you can't run the rear strap straight-ish-up, and have to run it over to one framerail, I'd run one strap to each framerail in a V to the same spot in the middle of the rear axle.
 
I think it's fairly easy to top-out the suspension on a vehicle in whoops, bar ditches, etc... so I would want the travel to be limited by something other than the shocks or driveline. I would also just get the right drivelines to take advantage of all (or most) of the available travel. I guess a pair of Woody's is about $1500, but well worth it IMO. Why do you think you need 1410s though?

I've run straps at the four corners; never a center one, but they could be effective in the rear. Check out Ruffstuff for straps.
 
I run two short straps in the rear, mounted on the frame rails then diagonally down to the axle truss and they mount on either side of the diff. Works great, flexes great, and I haven't blown anything up or killed any nuns yet! If I went to high pinion diff I could probably do away with the straps, but that isn't happening anytime soon. I don't think I could get a d-shaft with much more angle than what I already have to make my low pinion work. I wish I could say I went fast enough in the whoops to notice the rear end topping out.
 
TTMotorsports said:
Yeah basically you will need to get the driveshaft situation to use all the travel of the shocks or you will limit it and lose some of the shock travel to keep it all alive. Limit straps about 1" per 12" of strap length. so if the strap is 18" long, it will stretch to around 19.5" with the weight after being used. Account for that when setting it all up as well.
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More like 1/2" per foot. And that is biased on a single strap. Doubles and quads will stretch much less. Also depends on axle weight and leverage.

It's best to have adjustable upper mounts to account for all this.

Or get out the fucking die grinder and clearance the yokes like a real man.
 
Also, in my pro-mod car, I have one strap on the top of the rear diff that saves my rear driveshaft. nothing on my shocks, but they are fox 2.5 airshocks, with like a 1-5/8 shaft or something huge like that. Works good.
 
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