Homemade tools

I think like this? This is fancy, but you can do about the same with a piece of angle with another piece welded on with a hole in it to hold the marker.

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no

grab a piece of angle iron and a piece of pipe
angle small enough or pipe big enough that the legs end on/near the surface of the pipe

hold the angle on the pipe with one hand
run your scribe along the angle iron where it meets the pipe
whoo presto straight line aligned with pipe's axis
 
Can you explain this more? Isn’t angle iron equal lengths on the “legs”?
to draw a line, simply lay the tube in the groove on the angle and draw the line

to find center, let the tube on a flat surface (table) take a 90* (anything) but we will call it a square, lay it on said table and just drag it down the tube, that mark left on the tube will be center.
To mark center from there refer back to step one

did that make sense:confused:

also, the others have great ways of using tools too that have been posted on this
 
no

grab a piece of angle iron and a piece of pipe
angle small enough or pipe big enough that the legs end on/near the surface of the pipe

hold the angle on the pipe with one hand
run your scribe along the angle iron where it meets the pipe
whoo presto straight line aligned with pipe's axis
Doesn't even need to be angle. Drop the pipe into a C channel or I beam and roll it to one edge.
 
Cobbled this garbage up to overcome chineseium shortcomings. Hacked up a 3/4” pipe nipple bent a strip of sheet over the *** for the bolt and gasless boogers.

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In theory, the tool as is worked fine, however in reality I sure as hell wasn’t pulling the fuel rail off to allow clearance to do the intake valve seals, worked fine on the exhaust.


Worst part was the time wasted all pissy because the tool I wanted to buy and wait for wouldn’t fit under the cowl, getting into ****this**** match in the gas tank mode.

Looked at the too short piece for too what seemed like too long then :idea:

Shouldn’t I be less ******ed by now?
 
Had 100 psi in the cyl, that wasn’t an issue, getting the hack tool to push straight on the spring was.
 
I was looking at the broke cam pivot fork thingus

Ah, that was from using an 8” extension so I could hold it down with a strap, got a bit of twist on it. Happened early Didn’t seem to really make much difference.
 
tap the spring retainers with a hammer to break the taper of the keepers free before you go whangulating on them with any sorta spring compressor

well, next time, that is
Spring compressor? Use a socket + extension and wack it hard enough that the keepers go flying across the bench

If you're feeling fancy stick a magnet in the socket so they don't go flying at all
 
Spring compressor? Use a socket + extension and wack it hard enough that the keepers go flying across the bench

If you're feeling fancy stick a magnet in the socket so they don't go flying at all
Or just hit the side of the spring retainer :lmao:
 
Spring compressor? Use a socket + extension and wack it hard enough that the keepers go flying across the bench

If you're feeling fancy stick a magnet in the socket so they don't go flying at all

Bench?
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I don’t see no stinkin bench!
 
Rivnut setting tool for 1/2” inserts. Devised from a daydream at work.
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Main body is 1.5” dom sleeved with 1”
1/2” all thread adapter and 3/4” bolt
Cold rolled 5/16” pin
Handle of choice
Random 3/16” & 1/4” plate for hole saw drops
3/4” Torrington bearing
Grease
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It’s serviceable. I have never tried something of fancy mechanical engineer vocabulary like this before. Kinda freehanded.
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Very simple. One hand to steady and one on the ugga dugga pistola. I built in the desired crush depth (1/4”) into the tool body and cross pin. The cross pin is what disables axial motion and keeps the tool motion linear? Is that vernacular correct?
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This was a crude way of setting the rivnut based upon many “diy” setting tool examples on the internet. It required 3 hands and potential for injury.
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I might copy that since I've got a pile of 1/2-13 I have no tool for.

The $40 China tools advertise 1/2-13 now. Not sure how much I trust them at that size though. :laughing:
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I've got the Astro Pneumatic "XL" rivnut tool that does M8, M10, M12, 5/16″, 3/8″, and 1/2″, but even it takes some grunt with the larger diameter ones. I might have to copy your design sometime.

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These pneumatic ones are decent if you do a "lot". the metric one is currently $158. I have mandrels for standard and metric for mine.


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How accurate are they? I can "feel" the threaded section stop moving when I use my manual gun. I'd be worried it just yeets the thread right out of the small ones and doesn't fully seat the big ones unless you're wast a lot of rivets figuring out the right pressure for each size.
 
those pneumatic ones are nice, but really not needed unless you're doing alot of rivnuts. you don't get any feel with the pneumatic ones, you basically pre-set them with the amount of force for your rivnut size and metal thickness (testing a few on some scrap), and then once it's set, it's just jamming along real fast. very repeatable. Probably more for production stuff than someone needing to do 10 rivnuts.

I picked a similar one up a while back when I was doing a decent amount of rivnuts (Astro Pneumatic I think)
 
I have a 1/2” mandrel for my Doyle HF tool but the arms are too short. Your chest cavity will split and still never crush the insert.

The air tool would be cool as mentioned for production.

⬆️UPDATE⬆️ I didn’t have a lot of faith in the thrust bearings. The steels fragmented into many pieces after only 3 inserts. Bearing was okayish. Wasn’t going to F around and just greased up a 3/4” fender washer to finish the job. 1/2” inserts require all the ugga duggas from my cordless impact.
 
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