Homemade tools

I've been genuinely surprised at how much weight the tailgate will hold :lmao:

Still opens and closes just fine. I think if I were doing alot of this rock unloading, I would probably remove the tailgate and make one that lifts upwards, or maybe swings out like a door, instead of down like a tailgate.
I really miss the ability to tip it up, unhook 2 linkages and lift it off. My 91 Chevy tailgate weighed 50 or 60 pounds. Why does everything have to be so damn complicated and expensive?
 
I really miss the ability to tip it up, unhook 2 linkages and lift it off. My 91 Chevy tailgate weighed 50 or 60 pounds. Why does everything have to be so damn complicated and expensive?
I think that's how mine comes off, but I also have wires run to a backup camera that I have mounted above the tailgate handle. I suppose I could put a quick disconnect on the wires.
 
another thing that impresses me about the 7.3 and 6 speed manual when I'm unloading these rocks, I'm not touching the throttle at all. zero. I have 1 foot on the brake, and I'm slowly letting out the clutch in 1st gear. It just doesn't want to stall. I love it. :smokin:. over 300k miles, and on the 2nd clutch :smokin:
 
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These didn’t work as well as I thought. I had to bend a panel seam back and the jaws in these were fawked. I found them in the middle of the road years ago. I used .125” scrap but it’s too flimsy
the factory built ones have a bit of cup to the jaws so they contact at the outside edges first and therefore have a little spring tension keeping it clamped out there
 
another thing that impresses me about the 7.3 and 6 speed manual when I'm unloading these rocks, I'm not touching the throttle at all. zero. I have 1 foot on the brake, and I'm slowly letting out the clutch in 1st gear. It just doesn't want to stall. I love it. :smokin:. over 300k miles, and on the 2nd clutch :smokin:
when the idle is governed either by a flyweight governor or the computer it'll (functionally) operate the gas pedal to prevent stalling for you
well, to a certain point, most of them won't go all the way to full-fuel for rod bearing life concerns
 
when the idle is governed either by a flyweight governor or the computer it'll (functionally) operate the gas pedal to prevent stalling for you
well, to a certain point, most of them won't go all the way to full-fuel for rod bearing life concerns
yeah, it likes to hold it's RPM regardless of load (to an extent..), I like that :)
 
And carry more gravel without caving the sheetmetal between the crossmembers.

There's really no reason not to run a drop in.
ehhh the fenderwells would get a little munkled up
if it were an ugly stepside though...
Nah, still gotta get the bedliner out from under the pile of rock
 
ehhh the fenderwells would get a little munkled up
if it were an ugly stepside though...
Nah, still gotta get the bedliner out from under the pile of rock
They make bed liners with wheel wells ribbed like the floor. Must be stupid expensive because I've only ever seen them a few times and always on government trucks.

If you don't dump the gravel in hard they'll probably be fine either way. :laughing:
 
the bed as a rubber mat on the floor of it, but I have that folded up. I doubt this stuff would be sliding out with the rubber mat in place :lmao:. I know this is scratching up the bed, but I don't care, it's scratched and dented up already. I pretty much only use it for hauling stuff.
 
Designed and printed a tool to mark the center line of a tube. Does 1.75" one way and 1.5" on the short side.

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pretty simple and effective, nice :)

I don't 3d print (although I work with 3d models every day at work), I might make something like this out of a block of wood, I like it. :)
I've been 3d printing other people's designs for a long time, just started learning the CAD part the other day so I can make my design my own stuff.
 
Need a better visual. I have all sorts of scrap and a lot of it won't line up for a centerline (in my head) so how exactly does that work?
Angle won’t split the tube into 2 equal halves, it will make a straight line on the tube. You will need to measure halfway around or, use a circle square, to split it in 2.
 
yeah, like any vee block
plop it on there and it makes a center line, the side of channel steel works too
clamp it on there and it'll hold two pieces lined up while tacking

I think like this? This is fancy, but you can do about the same with a piece of angle with another piece welded on with a hole in it to hold the marker.

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It's been awhile since I've had some spare time to work on personal projects, but I'm still trying to move the English Wheel project along.
The next step has been setting up the upper wheel and lower anvil and their adjusters. I'm using Hoosier Profiles' Complete English Wheel Kit for those components and Wray Schelin's English Wheel Frame Plans, so there is some work to fit the two together.
I mocked up a lower anvil adjuster so that I can take measurements for the lower adjuster. The next/parallel step will be setting a working height based on all of this to build the legs for the frame.
 
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