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Help Sourcing RV Waterline Fitting Washers

BDK

BDK

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
143
Messages
935
Loc
San Diego, Kingman
I've been to nearly every plumbing supply house, and hardware store in the area. I ordered a few packs of what the vendor claimed to be the correct size off Amazon only to have them be not even close. I tried Grainger and Zoro, but they have them by application not size.

RV has crimped to water hose fittings between the pump, valves, etc., to the hard lines. The fittings are all for 1/2" water hose, and all 1/2" NPT threads. The washers are going bad and I can't source replacements.

Fitting
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Washer
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Flat rubber washer, 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID, 1/8" thick.

I have new hose and some plastic barb fittings that use hose clamps, but the OEM hoses appear to be in good condition with the exception of the washers.

If anyone knows where I can find these washers, and what the fittings are called, I would really appreciate it.

Standard shower head washers are very close in size, but way too thin.
 
Faucet washer?

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Could I replace these water lines with common faucet FIP supply lines? They appear to be the same ends, just with cone shaped washers instead of flat, which would actually seat better on the pipe ends. Easy to source, a lot more expensive than washers, but if I can't find the washers it seems like a quick fix.

Can't ask the manufacture because National RV has been out of business for several years. I rebuilt the manifold they all go to/from a few years ago as a few of the valves were leaking.
 
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I gave up on trying to find the washers for the old water lines. It was taking too much time and gas. Buying a 3D printer seems a little extreme, but that would be a good excuse for buying one.

I spent a little time looking over the water system. There are seven soft lines between the overly complicated freshwater manifold and wherever they go. All the plumbing is Pex or threaded pipe connections, all 1/2". Local stores did not have the correct lengths of the soft lines with FIP or IP fittings on both ends. I ordered new stainless braided lines with FIP connections on both ends. The tapered washers should actually make a better seal with pipe and Pex fittings than the flat washers. I think the manufacture used crimped fittings on PVC tube because they could make the lines in-house and save some money. They lasted 20 years, they had a good run. I'm more comfortable with all new soft lines in any case. I mostly dry camp in semi-remote places, so a leaking water line is a trip killer. I'll change out all the soft lines, fill the water tank, turn on the pump, purge the lines and let it sit for a few days before closing it all back up.
 
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I should have posted I think I got it figured out. New lines came in. The problem is that the supply line hoses are about 1/4" hose. That won't work because it will reduce the water flow too much.

FordFascist said:
Replace with FIP swivel fittings from Lowe’s or Home Depot. I use the PEX ones on my flexible tubes with a different clamp since the flexible tube is a thicker side wall.

I bought this kit for odd size PEX crimp clamps. It worked great for my water pressure accumulator project.
Click to expand...
Did you use braided flexible PVC tube and PEX fittings with PEX crimps? Now, I'm going towards making my own water lines. I have 30' of flexible braided 1/2" ID PVC tubing so I would just need the PEX fittings and crimps.
 
Beer brewing store. He had tons of sizes, will work perfect. Or any beverage supply. Was just there last week he had drawers of stuff.
 
Your comment about a brewery store prompted me to call my buddy who just left a job as the facility manager for a local brewery. He's one of those guys who has tools for everything. Used to be a hauler and mechanic for a Formula 1 race team, ran his own mechanic shop, then went into brewery facility management. He said he has a very extensive washer punch kit and a bunch of silicone washer material at his house. He had to make washers for the brewery all the time and has about every punch and thickness of material there is. I should have called him sooner. I should be able to make new washers and use the old flexible hoses with the crimped brass fittings.

He used to work for Lost Abby in San Marcos, California. They made some of the best dark ale's I have ever tasted. Lots of variety, really good stuff. I had a fridge stocked with cases of 20-ounce corked bottles that retail for $20 to $100 each. I could stop by there anytime and he would throw as many cases in the back of the truck until I told him to stop. They were partnered with Pizza Port. A new owner took over Lost Abby a few years ago and ran a good thing into the ground in short order. Got rid of all the specialty ale's, got a new brewmaster for less money, went to all cans, made horrible business decisions, started losing a lot of money. Pizza Port came into the brewery a month or two ago, told them they had two weeks to vacate. They are going to use the space for a new brewery and restaurant. The Lost Abby owner asked my buddy to stay for half of his salary while he reorganized, raised money to start a new brewery. My buddy quit on the spot because there is no way that guy is going to be successful in business. He consults with Pizza Port two to three days a week at twice his previous pay. Great dude.

I only have a few left in the fridge, I'm soon going to have to pay for beer. Aus Der Traum!
 
BDK said:
I should have posted I think I got it figured out. New lines came in. The problem is that the supply line hoses are about 1/4" hose. That won't work because it will reduce the water flow too much.


Did you use braided flexible PVC tube and PEX fittings with PEX crimps? Now, I'm going towards making my own water lines. I have 30' of flexible braided 1/2" ID PVC tubing so I would just need the PEX fittings and crimps.
Click to expand...
Correct. I used braided PVC tube for the flexible portions and PEX for the rest. My whole toy hauler is PEX anyway so it’s not a big stretch and it’s nice to have common fittings.
 
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30 minutes at my buddies house, 22 hand punched food grade silicone washers that fit perfectly. Enough for all seven hoses and a bunch of spares. :smokin::smokin:
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This is the back side of the fresh water manifold. Overcomplicated to say the least.
20230418_075417.jpg

It's got a half tank of water and the pump is on. So far no leaks. I'll let it sit for a few days with the pump on to make sure it's no longer leaking. I also decided to leave well enough along and left the other hose connections as they were. Not broke, don't fix it.
 
Wow. That seems like a whole lot of complication, but for what purpose?

I replaced the faucets in my 30yo class c recently. OEM waterlines looked PEX(ish) so I thought it would be pretty easy. Splicing the new PEX with the old limes was a PITA, and involved a lot of custom grinding/Emory cloth rework of fittings, and liberal application of heat to open up ID of old lines, since the ID was something like 1/16” difference. It seems to work, but since we do quite a bit of dry camping too (especially in cold weather), I’m likely going to replace the entirety of the water system with PEX. didn’t help that I hooked up to city water (which I normally don’t do) without a regulator, and blew some of the old fitting. Woops, rookie mistake.

that custom washer punch sounds neat.
 
Well, it would be kind of hard to hook up the pipe to the back of the fresh water manifold, or access the back of the panel if it was all hard lines. All of the rest of the coach's water lines are Pex.

They even ran the Pex directly to the faucets, shower, toilet, etc., hookups, which will make it real fun if I have to replace anything. I rebuilt the bathroom faucet yesterday because it had a slow leak. Was going to replace it until I noticed how it was hooked up. It also looks like they mounted the faucet to the sink, then installed the sink because access is very tight behind the sink.
 
Got it. I've learned firsthand that RVs are primarily built at the factory to be thrown in the junkyard, not repaired. every single house repair I've done has been more PITA than it should be. wet floor from water leaks are no fun - been there, done that.
 
I religiously turn off the water pump, or the hose bib on the rare occasion I'm plugged in, whenever I leave the coach for more than a few hours. I had a leak in a new pop-up trailer because the manufacture's way to reduce a water line was to use a 1/4" connection in a 3/8" ID hose and crank it down with a hose clamp. Leaked all day, about half of the 30 gallon holding tank, inside the trailer. Luckily it was all fixed under warranty.

I've had three RV's since that trailer and they all had freshwater leak issues. Even the Winnebago, which are supposed to be one of the best of them as far as quality. Current coach is a 2002 36' Dolphin 5355 made by National RV with a W22 Workhorse chassis. I'm keeping this one, plenty of power for a gasser, the floor plan and size is near perfect for me. It was my parent's coach who bought it new so I know it's history. It's been very well cared for and has had very few issues. The few water leaks have all been due to age (and driving I-40 shaking the shit out of it) and very minor. It's a good coach.
 
Pics from the RV manual. The hot return is the one that was leaking.

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20230423_102501.jpg


When I rebuilt the manifold a few years ago due to a leaking valve, I discovered two of the hoses were in the wrong place. I'm assuming it was wrong from the factory.
 
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