What's new
By:
Filters

Heat/sound deadening material.

billybob_81067

billybob_81067

Redneck
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
150
Messages
874
Loc
Southeastern Colorado
I have an old 1086 tractor that we use for baling. On hotter days when you are baling a lot you can feel the heat coming in through the floorboards and firewall and the poor old A/C just can't keep up. Right now it just has a rubber mat on the floor cut from an old pickup bed liner mat, and nothing on the firewall, It used to have some foam on the firewall, but the adhesive failed long ago.


What do you guys think is the best heat shielding product on the market? I would prefer a stick on sheet like Dynamat over a spray in product like lizard skin unless lizard skin is just that much better... Are the cheaper versions of Dynamat just as good? I'm not worried so much about noise as I am the heat. Will the stick on sheets adhesives fail over time due to the heat, or once you stick them down on a properly cleaned/roughed up surface should they be good for life?
 
I put lizard skin in a couple vehicles last season, have been happy with the results. Trans tunnel next to the collectors used to scorch, now can rest hand on it in dead of summer. I did most of the installation "wrong", using a brush instead of spraying it and installing inside rather than on exterior. Put a coating of spray bed liner over top to keep from wearing the coating away.
 
Being that it's a tractor, Peel & Seal is an inexpensive alternative to Dynamat that can be bought at Homedepot.
 
I picked up some Noico brand off amazon. good bit cheaper than dynamat. Seems to be good quality. It's available in Black as well, incase you aren't going to cover it up, it won't be so bright to look at. Also doesn't have logos plastered all over it.
 
Last edited:
I've had good luck with Fatmat for sound, can't really say how much it helps for heat, but it's adhesive backed rubber and foil like Dynamat, just a lot cheaper.

I'm in the process of putting this eBay Chinesium Sound Deadener & Heat Insulation all over my CTD W250 "farm truck," but the jury is still out, since I'm still in the process. It was pretty much the cheapest per sq-ft I could find, and is a dense foam, a little thicker than the FatMat and Dynamat stuff I've worked with in the past.

I don't have any experience with Lizard Skin specifically, but I did line the tub of my Jeep with a similar product, Al's HNR. It's a latex (I think) paint with a bunch of ceramic micro beads in it. I followed the instructions, even conversed with their CS via email to make sure I was doing things right. It wound up being a complete waste of time. In my before and after testing, I wound up with a ~1% temperature reduction, not worth the effort.
 
I wished i could justify putting sound deadaning into my truck...but its an 04 GMC 1500 with 160k and i dont really want to dump money and time into something I will not have for a while. Now i will hate myself in 5 years when i still havent replaced the truck.:laughing::homer:
 
I saw a thread on Agtalk a while back about this exact issue, seems like IH had an issue with this. I cant dig it up but most of the responses were to try to seal all of the holes and areas in the firewall, or buy a Deere.
 
dnsfailure said:
I picked up some Noico brand off amazon. good bit cheaper than dynamat. Seems to be good quality. It's available in Black as well, incase you aren't going to cover it up, it won't be so bright to look at. Also doesn't have logos plastered all over it.
Click to expand...

Just got a lot of this for the cherokee. I haven't installed it yet so n clue if it works but the fsj community seems to think it does.
 
I have used Kilmat I got off Amazon and it works fine for both sound and heat. I recently finished off the rear cargo area of my Explorer with this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Siless-50m...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Its a little softer than the Kilmat, but is about the same stuff but in larger sheets and a little cheaper. I got it from this seller, told him I was in a time crunch and he sent it to me in two days.
 
Need to sound deaden the inside of my truck so will be following.
 
A 1086 is my least favorite tractor I have ever driven. Had one stuck in reverse, and couldn’t push clutch. Went through a fence with a round baler, almost went in the pond. Yes, I should have killed the throttle, but was a stupid child at the time. So basically what I’m getting at, is an insurance fire out of the question?
 
dnsfailure said:
I picked up some Noico brand off amazon. good bit cheaper than dynamat. Seems to be good quality. It's available in Black as well, incase you aren't going to cover it up, it won't be so bright to look at. Also doesn't have logos plastered all over it.
Click to expand...

I see they also have some that states it is specifically for heat insulation as well. Probably the top runner in this thread so far from what I can tell. That second skin stuff sounds nice, but the cost is pretty high!


BDK said:
I have used Kilmat I got off Amazon and it works fine for both sound and heat. I recently finished off the rear cargo area of my Explorer with this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Siless-50m...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Its a little softer than the Kilmat, but is about the same stuff but in larger sheets and a little cheaper. I got it from this seller, told him I was in a time crunch and he sent it to me in two days.
Click to expand...
Looks like this and the Noico brand of sound deadener are about the same price/sq ft for the butyl rubber type stuff... You like it as a heat insulator?


Baconator said:
I saw a thread on Agtalk a while back about this exact issue, seems like IH had an issue with this. I cant dig it up but most of the responses were to try to seal all of the holes and areas in the firewall, or buy a Deere.
Click to expand...

Yeah it used to have some foam padding on the firewall and maybe even another mat under the floor mat/carpeting, but that has been gone for years. Imagine my heartache when my 40 year old tractor needs some upkeep...

_stucky said:
A 1086 is my least favorite tractor I have ever driven. Had one stuck in reverse, and couldn’t push clutch. Went through a fence with a round baler, almost went in the pond. Yes, I should have killed the throttle, but was a stupid child at the time. So basically what I’m getting at, is an insurance fire out of the question?
Click to expand...

Anyone who doesn't love a 66 or 86 series is more than likely a communist. :flipoff2:
 
I still like old style foil backed jute for heat reduction. Foil towards the heat source. From what I've experienced the asphalt (black stuff) with foil does ok but works better for sound deadening and helps with heat.

But in a tractor where it gets wet, mud, and shit all over it jute may not be wise. Hamilton Jet makes some nice padded stuff that works. It's expensive but gives an idea of what to look for.
 
Dang it I forgot to add the link to the Noico brand stuff that claims it is for heat reduction. It is a closed cell polyethylene foam. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...3?smid=AXJ5VNOZL83GP&psc=1&tag=91812054244-20



Lincoln said:
I still like old style foil backed jute for heat reduction. Foil towards the heat source. From what I've experienced the asphalt (black stuff) with foil does ok but works better for sound deadening and helps with heat.

But in a tractor where it gets wet, mud, and shit all over it jute may not be wise. Hamilton Jet makes some nice padded stuff that works. It's expensive but gives an idea of what to look for.
Click to expand...

We don't get much mud and shit in our tractors as we are fair weather farmers and only use them when it is dry out. If it isn't dry, we just wait a day or two and it'll be dry again.
 
This is something am going through right now and will share what I learned.

Kilmat is the easiest to work with for the cost. It is not much more than peel and seal.

Peel and seal if you take a heat gun will work, but it is much more labor intensive. If you don't get good adhesion you are wasting your time. Kilmat seems to work in all position.

I also bought dynamat extreme to use inside doors and on the roof. It is stickier than kilmat, but at like 4 times the price.

Kilmat worked so well I used it on the ceiling. Pretty happy with the stuff.

But that alone will not do what you want. None of those products will, they will help but it is not a one step process.

next step is using a closed cell foam. The stuff is super cheap. I used gym rubber from foam factory. Buy a can of contact cement and glue it to the kilmat or peel and seal or whatever you use.

Ideally you would cover the foam with something like a mass loaded vynil, but hard to do on sides and roof of a cab. But you will be so happy with foam and kilmat you won't care.

Products like kilmat are great but they are a small part of the process. They stop harmonic noises transmitted through metal and they seal up open holes where noise and air pass directly through the cab.
Using a product such as closed cell foam is where the real sound and heat insulation come from.

If I was only doing one step I would use the closed cell foam.
 
Tiha said:
This is something am going through right now and will share what I learned.

Kilmat is the easiest to work with for the cost. It is not much more than peel and seal.

Peel and seal if you take a heat gun will work, but it is much more labor intensive. If you don't get good adhesion you are wasting your time. Kilmat seems to work in all position.

I also bought dynamat extreme to use inside doors and on the roof. It is stickier than kilmat, but at like 4 times the price.

Kilmat worked so well I used it on the ceiling. Pretty happy with the stuff.

But that alone will not do what you want. None of those products will, they will help but it is not a one step process.

next step is using a closed cell foam. The stuff is super cheap. I used gym rubber from foam factory. Buy a can of contact cement and glue it to the kilmat or peel and seal or whatever you use.

Ideally you would cover the foam with something like a mass loaded vynil, but hard to do on sides and roof of a cab. But you will be so happy with foam and kilmat you won't care.

Products like kilmat are great but they are a small part of the process. They stop harmonic noises transmitted through metal and they seal up open holes where noise and air pass directly through the cab.
Using a product such as closed cell foam is where the real sound and heat insulation come from.

If I was only doing one step I would use the closed cell foam.
Click to expand...

Good to know! I might just go ahead and order both the closed cell foam and the kilmat. Thank you for your input!
 
flecker said:
Kilmat… sound deadener and insulating.

https://www.amazon.com/Kilmat-Deaden...57997251&psc=1
Click to expand...

BDK said:
I have used Kilmat I got off Amazon and it works fine for both sound and heat. I recently finished off the rear cargo area of my Explorer with this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Siless-50m...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Its a little softer than the Kilmat, but is about the same stuff but in larger sheets and a little cheaper. I got it from this seller, told him I was in a time crunch and he sent it to me in two days.
Click to expand...

i used kilmat on the flow of my 86 4runner recently, and it went from boiling a beer/melting shoes to just warm/kinda hot

i think i used the 50mil and then just some thin rubber trailer flooring

i did throw some cheapy amazon stick on reflective heat shield type stuff on the bottom of the cab too
 
Tiha said:
next step is using a closed cell foam. The stuff is super cheap. I used gym rubber from foam factory. Buy a can of contact cement and glue it to the kilmat or peel and seal or whatever you use.


If I was only doing one step I would use the closed cell foam.
Click to expand...


Sounds good. I use gym rubber but I'm now gong to look into kilmat. Closed cell foam lasts really well, too.
 
I took my Explorer for a long drive recently and paid attention to road noise. I would say doing the cargo area and inside the rear quarters killed about half of the road noise. Huge improvement. 35" Maxxis Razr's are down to a muffled scream now. I have a 3/4 HP air compressor mounted in the old spare tire well and I can hardly hear it running now. I had done the rest of the interior previously.

If you use Kilmat or Siless, open the box for a few days before you use it. It will get rid of the tar like smell. I didn't bother to seal the seams, just overlapped the sheets of deadener. Over the trans hump I doubled it up because I did it at the same time I had installed a Atlas II and I heard they whined, but mine doesn't. I also noticed a reduction in heat through the floor. Mine wasn't bad before, but now the floor doesn't even get warm, but I do have the OEM pad and carpet still.
 
If you use peal and seal, put something over it because at a certain temp it gets pretty greasy and will move under your feet
 
I did car doors: Peel N Seal in my truck and Kilmat in my car and the Kilmat seemed more effective for both road noise and directly tapping on the door.

Peel N Seal was more labor intensive. Can't speak to the heat reduction of either.
 
Do you have hay to make down there? I talked to a farmer in your area who was selling some equipment off and he said you all were in a really bad drought this year. Its been pretty dry up here, but there is still a little hay to make.
 
trampas said:
Posting to subscribe...
Click to expand...

WaterH said:
Sub'd for future updates.
Click to expand...

Screenshot_20200705-184818_Firefox.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh