What's new

Heat Shrink Hoses Clamps

We can all agree that molded plastic bullshit is an engineers wet dream and a stupid design. So naturally, Ford loves them.
 
We can all agree that molded plastic bullshit is an engineers wet dream and a stupid design. So naturally, Ford loves them.
You think they're bad when they come from Ford, just wait until they get cheap enough for GM to use. :laughing:

Then once they're old enough for Toyota to start using them they'll still suck but everyone will pretend like they don't.:lmao:
 
oetiker FTW.


:flipoff2:

Old thread bump - who has experience with oetiker/ear hose clamps?

IMG_6550.jpeg


IMG_6551.jpeg



Had a couple of these little bastards leak - which makes sense in retrospect since they're not actually sealing all the way around. Was going to go ahead and order some of these as replacements (second layer of metal under 'crimping' portion of clamp):

McMaster-Carr From the site (have to scroll down):

Tight-Seal Vibration-Resistant Pinch Clamps for Firm Hose and Tube

Unlike other pinch clamps, these have a unique tongue-and-groove design that creates a gap-free seal to reduce leaks.

A reinforcing dimple in the ear creates a spring-like action that allows these clamps to withstand vibration and temperature changes without loosening. Also known as ear clamps, they install by crimping the pinch point with pinch-clamp pincers. Clamps are for firm plastic and rubber hose and tube. They are 304 stainless steel for very good corrosion resistance.

Screen Shot 2023-04-27 at 2.20.07 PM.png



Like the clean, compact nature of these as opposed to regular hose clamps as long as I can make them work - the ones linked above have a second layer of metal for sealing all the way around. Pictured are heater lines, but also using on trans cooler lines and hydro steering low pressure lines as redundancy to push-lock barbs. All is the same style Eaton hose...

Better place to order these? Is one clamp enough, or go for extra redundancy and double them up? Are there any clamps like this that can be popped apart and installed on a line without disassembling the line? Aka, I'd prefer not to heat gun/pull hoses off the push-lock barbed fittings just to install these if possible
 
I went to a class given by Parker on their push lock hose fittings. They said that adding hose clamps to push lock hose and fittings actually increases the chance of failure due to damage inside the hose from the clamps.
YMMV.
 
I replaced 2 constant tension clamps with gates heat shrink clamps on the lower hose of my rig. I went through numerous hose clamp styles trying to fix a heat soak seap. Constant tension was the best, but it still happened.

Since I went to the heat shrink style clamps its been good to go. Not much tech to add but I can say multiple seasons, the heat shrink Gates clamps work.
 
Old thread bump - who has experience with oetiker/ear hose clamps?

IMG_6550.jpeg




Had a couple of these little bastards leak - which makes sense in retrospect since they're not actually sealing all the way around. Was going to go ahead and order some of these as replacements (second layer of metal under 'crimping' portion of clamp):

McMaster-Carr From the site (have to scroll down):

Tight-Seal Vibration-Resistant Pinch Clamps for Firm Hose and Tube

Unlike other pinch clamps, these have a unique tongue-and-groove design that creates a gap-free seal to reduce leaks.

A reinforcing dimple in the ear creates a spring-like action that allows these clamps to withstand vibration and temperature changes without loosening. Also known as ear clamps, they install by crimping the pinch point with pinch-clamp pincers. Clamps are for firm plastic and rubber hose and tube. They are 304 stainless steel for very good corrosion resistance.




Like the clean, compact nature of these as opposed to regular hose clamps as long as I can make them work - the ones linked above have a second layer of metal for sealing all the way around. Pictured are heater lines, but also using on trans cooler lines and hydro steering low pressure lines as redundancy to push-lock barbs. All is the same style Eaton hose...

Better place to order these? Is one clamp enough, or go for extra redundancy and double them up? Are there any clamps like this that can be popped apart and installed on a line without disassembling the line? Aka, I'd prefer not to heat gun/pull hoses off the push-lock barbed fittings just to install these if possible

Look just like the pex clamps I've used, $50 kobalt ratcheting tool works fine.
 
Any complaints?

You want constant tension and visual indication of tightness use a traditional spring clamp.

You want ease of service use a stainless worm gear.

The various types of fancy clamps don't really have much if any benefit over spring gear clamps or worm gear clamps if installed correctly. What the spring tension worm gear clamps and crimp clamps do help with is preventing the worthless sack of UAW shit who dgaf because it's Friday from fucking things up resulting in an expensive service call under warranty.

The various forms of crimp and spring clamps probably leak less than worm gear clamps at scale but I think you'd need to be installing them by the thousands for it to matter. When was the last time you had a leak at a clamp that was right side (so not a huge clamp on a small hose). In practice the hoses degrade before it becomes an issue.

They just don't make economical sense for low volumes or personal vehicles IMO.
 
Last edited:
slightly bulky, but they seem good, Any complaints?
I don't have any besides the bulky issue. There are some better ones that have the slip tongue on the inside to keep from digging on the smaller diameter hoses, they are specific to silicone hose on our shit.
 
McMaster Carr sells the SS double crimp bands that I use for work on sulfuric acid lines. The double crimp has a good size range over the single crimp. The crimp and clamping force is higher than worm gear clamps that might be ready to strip out at that force. The dual crimps appear to have a little spring to them and seal better. The bands are thick and need a mini bolt cutter or abrasive wheel to cut them.
Seems like whenever the temperature changes. All the T-bolt and worm gear caps need to be tightened. Granted most of the hose is flexible PVC which is very heat sensitive.
 
Spring clamp is definitely superior . Worm clamps are trash I get aggravated any time I see one of my techs swapping spring clamps for worms on engines installs . I can almost guarantee I’ll be getting a call about coolant leaks in a couple of days .
 
Surprised nobody bring up on hose clamp placement.

It is a big factor on to not leak. Any kind of clamps.

Best practice is to put the clamp right next to the barb bead. Not in middle or at the very end of the hose!

I’m also a fan of spring clamps. They’re pita to find new to buy.
 
Spring clamps are amazing, just your average shade tree mechanic has a treasured 5 gallon pail of used worm drive clamps so those are still the normal go to.
I love T bolts, they just cost too much to use for every day items.
 
Spring clamp is definitely superior . Worm clamps are trash I get aggravated any time I see one of my techs swapping spring clamps for worms on engines installs . I can almost guarantee I’ll be getting a call about coolant leaks in a couple of days .
You have some really shitty techs if your failure rate on any kind of hose clamp is more than one in a few hundred. :laughing:
 
You have some really shitty techs if your failure rate on any kind of hose clamp is more than one in a few hundred. :laughing:
Lol you know nothing of hose clamps on large equipment radiator lines. The regular screw ones will leak every winter. The change in size of the big cast iron barbs cause havoc on none spring loaded hose clamps.
 
Lol you know nothing of hose clamps on large equipment radiator lines. The regular screw ones will leak every winter. The change in size of the big cast iron barbs cause havoc on none spring loaded hose clamps.
He said a few days, not 6mo in the future.

Regardless, worm gear hose clamps in roughly the same sizes work fine on turbo shit the world over
 
You have some really shitty techs if your failure rate on any kind of hose clamp is more than one in a few hundred. :laughing:
I’m not sure you comprehend the amount of vehicles we maintain . The worm clamps are what are shitty not the techs . You wouldn’t like worm clamps anymore if you were in my shoes , sir 😀
 
Easy enough on McMaster, pretty cheap too
Actually will get pricey quickly considering in my experience a lot of cars’ radiator hose ends’ size aren’t all the same. May need 2 or as many as 4 or more (such as eurotrash) sizes to do just one vehicle.

And the game of figuring out which sizes I’ll need to order :laughing:
 
Actually will get pricey quickly considering in my experience a lot of cars’ radiator hose ends’ size aren’t all the same. May need 2 or as many as 4 or more (such as eurotrash) sizes to do just one vehicle.

And the game of figuring out which sizes I’ll need to order :laughing:
I mean I guess but that 10 pack for $10 is what one tension clamp might cost?
My cost for an equivalent constant tension worm clamp is $7.60 EACH.



1683053871305.png
 
I used the shrink fitting on the lower radiator hose for the XJ on the engine side. Fixed the leak and worked for what I needed. No issues since installing.
 
We cut those shots off and put real clamps. Guaranteed leak when it's cold. Or blows the hose off
 
Top Back Refresh