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Heat Shrink Hoses Clamps

Weasel

Weasel

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Black Hills, SoDak
Used the Gates clamps and they seem to work well enough. See there is another company called Hose Candy that is making them. I need some for some smaller sized hoses and wondering if the heavy duty heat shrink stuff would work? I don' enough about plastic's to know if they are something special material or not. The heavy duty adhesive line heat shrink it pretty tough stuff in places I've used it before.
 
The Gates clamps are good to 300*F and they are shiny and hard so I think the material is different than normal heat shrink which gets soft when hot.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The Gates clamps are good to 300*F and they are shiny and hard so I think the material is different than normal heat shrink which gets soft when hot.
Click to expand...

Yeah good point there. I have the gates on on the lower clamp to the engine on my 4.0 XJ. It's a PIA to get a hose clamps to seals and it's been holding for 2 years now.

I do have a clamp tite tool in my wheeling boxes. I like it and it does a good job. But it is space limited.
 
Guess I should look up gates clamps...
+1 on the clamptight in close spaces.
 
I have used the gates clamps and they are awesome BUT i would not use them on something you can put a normal hose clamp on since they cannot be removed and reused.
 
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While we are on the topic of hose clamps. Worm clamps are garbage as they don't spring with temp changes or rubber shrinkage over time.
OEM spring clamps, the ones that going flying across the shop are the good ones. They move with the hose and keep constant force.
It sounds like the Gates heat shrink clamps or bands move with the rubber so they keep a constant force over time.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
While we are on the topic of hose clamps. Worm clamps are garbage as they don't spring with temp changes or rubber shrinkage over time.
OEM spring clamps, the ones that going flying across the shop are the good ones. They move with the hose and keep constant force.
It sounds like the Gates heat shrink clamps or bands move with the rubber so they keep a constant force over time.
Click to expand...

You would have been one of the last people I'd expect to parrot that BS.

OEMs use spring clamps because they're a hell of a lot harder to install wrong and when they are on wrong it's visibly obvious. It's purely for convenience and ease of assembly.

"Muh constant force" is bullshit someone probably pulled out of their ass on the spot so they wouldn't have to tell the UAW fuckwits that they couldn't be trusted to reliably tighten stuff the right amount. Worm gear hose clamps on automotive systems have a service life measured in decades when properly installed. Corrosion and hose degradation from exposure to the elements are the practical limits to service life in reality. Outside of engineering textbooks, Reddiit and other places where cows are spherical and nobody understands the bigger picture having constant pressure on the hose simply isn't an issue.

When was the last time you've actually had issues with worm gear hose clamps other than them rusting or the real shitty ones stripping before they tighten enough?

When was the last time you wore a hose out at the hose clamp part instead of somewhere in the middle where the flexing happens?
 
arse_sidewards said:
You would have been one of the last people I'd expect to parrot that BS.

OEMs use spring clamps because they're a hell of a lot harder to install wrong and when they are on wrong it's visibly obvious. It's purely for convenience and ease of assembly.

"Muh constant force" is bullshit someone probably pulled out of their ass on the spot so they wouldn't have to tell the UAW fuckwits that they couldn't be trusted to reliably tighten stuff the right amount. Worm gear hose clamps on automotive systems have a service life measured in decades when properly installed. Corrosion and hose degradation from exposure to the elements are the practical limits to service life in reality. Outside of engineering textbooks, Reddiit and other places where cows are spherical and nobody understands the bigger picture having constant pressure on the hose simply isn't an issue.

When was the last time you've actually had issues with worm gear hose clamps other than them rusting or the real shitty ones stripping before they tighten enough?

When was the last time you wore a hose out at the hose clamp part instead of somewhere in the middle where the flexing happens?
Click to expand...

Real life, not from a text book. I more so noticed it on the smaller lines. They would leak or be loose after the initial install once the rubber or silicone had a chance to take shape. The screw flat makes a D shape which doesn't seal as well as the round spring on smaller lines. I went to the junk yard with a hose cutter and a needle nose and got a huge assortment of spring clamps. I think the largest I am using now is on 1/2" radiator hose. The 1" low pressure steering lines use a T bolt clamp as that special hose needs a high clamp force to crush down the spirals. I do have to go back and retorque them as the rubber takes shape over time. Same thing when I used that hose on the last buggy. When you get into the larger diameter low pressure, I believe it is not as much of and issue. That being said. I am still running T bolt clamps on the 4.5" air intake elbows. I don't think I have a single worm gear on the buggy.
Good spring clamps are not easy to find, most parts stores all carry the worm gears, while under the hood of a late model is all spring clamps. Makes no sense other than they are a pain to take off and on and deadly if they launch.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You would have been one of the last people I'd expect to parrot that BS.

OEMs use spring clamps because they're a hell of a lot harder to install wrong and when they are on wrong it's visibly obvious. It's purely for convenience and ease of assembly.

"Muh constant force" is bullshit someone probably pulled out of their ass on the spot so they wouldn't have to tell the UAW fuckwits that they couldn't be trusted to reliably tighten stuff the right amount. Worm gear hose clamps on automotive systems have a service life measured in decades when properly installed. Corrosion and hose degradation from exposure to the elements are the practical limits to service life in reality. Outside of engineering textbooks, Reddiit and other places where cows are spherical and nobody understands the bigger picture having constant pressure on the hose simply isn't an issue.

When was the last time you've actually had issues with worm gear hose clamps other than them rusting or the real shitty ones stripping before they tighten enough?

When was the last time you wore a hose out at the hose clamp part instead of somewhere in the middle where the flexing happens?
Click to expand...

Something tells me that you are that guy who still uses split lock washers? :flipoff2:
 
Could that heat shrink be put over a leak in the middle of a hose to seal it for a trail fix? No idea how hard the squeeze is.




AN fittings are the way to go.:grinpimp:
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Real life, not from a text book. I more so noticed it on the smaller lines. They would leak or be loose after the initial install once the rubber or silicone had a chance to take shape. The screw flat makes a D shape which doesn't seal as well as the round spring on smaller lines. I went to the junk yard with a hose cutter and a needle nose and got a huge assortment of spring clamps. I think the largest I am using now is on 1/2" radiator hose. The 1" low pressure steering lines use a T bolt clamp as that special hose needs a high clamp force to crush down the spirals. I do have to go back and retorque them as the rubber takes shape over time. Same thing when I used that hose on the last buggy. When you get into the larger diameter low pressure, I believe it is not as much of and issue. That being said. I am still running T bolt clamps on the 4.5" air intake elbows. I don't think I have a single worm gear on the buggy.
Good spring clamps are not easy to find, most parts stores all carry the worm gears, while under the hood of a late model is all spring clamps. Makes no sense other than they are a pain to take off and on and deadly if they launch.
Click to expand...

I can agree with what you said about small diameter and high pressure-being the most likely to cause problems with the worm gear clamps that have the normal sized D and 8mm/5/16 bolt. I think that's solved by using T-bolt clamps or the cheaper worm gear clamps with the smaller D housing and 1/4 drive. I've never had issues but I can see how one might, especially with a very thick wall stiff hose on a small fitting. In any case, I think the constant pressure stuff is 99% marketing BS except in the kinds of edge cases where you're pushing the limits of what a hose clamp should be doing in the first place and a real fitting would be wiser.

I'm running mostly worm gear across my fleet and I've got the occasional spring clamp or T-bolt clamp. None of them give me problems.
 
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gt1guy said:
Could that heat shrink be put over a leak in the middle of a hose to seal it for a trail fix? No idea how hard the squeeze is.




AN fittings are the way to go.:grinpimp:
Click to expand...

:trooper: I like the idea of AN fittings but I have a handful that leak and are in general a pia. Easy to get crap in the threads or dink the sealing face. And they take up a bit of space once you get them connected.
 
Big fan of the high quality SS screw clamps. Fuck everything else. Only about 10% leak when it gets to -10 to -20 degrees. Once spring rolls around give them another 1/2 turn and your good to go. It seems to happen the most on the big 3-4” cast iron engine side clamp. No problems with them anywhere else.

This is in the top 5 of best auction purchase ever! A upside down tote of random sized hose clamps.

9BE32E85-154E-45BB-97CE-27333319DA74.jpeg
 
Real quality AMERICAN MADE hose should not relinquish its capacity to seal, hold a shape, and just work!
phawkin chink hose :rolleyes: um no doubt.
Clamps from yesteryear still holding the 1954 fergy together today
 
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bdkw1 said:


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Click to expand...

Worm gear clamps even when spring loaded are still garbage. Only time they should be used is for hooking up the clothes dryer vent lines. :flipoff2:
I do like the spring loaded T bolt clamps, not many if any of the supply houses around here have the spring loaded version. Although I could say the same for OEM spring clamps, AN fittings, and all the other cool parts.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Real life, not from a text book. I more so noticed it on the smaller lines. They would leak or be loose after the initial install once the rubber or silicone had a chance to take shape. The screw flat makes a D shape which doesn't seal as well as the round spring on smaller lines. I went to the junk yard with a hose cutter and a needle nose and got a huge assortment of spring clamps. I think the largest I am using now is on 1/2" radiator hose. The 1" low pressure steering lines use a T bolt clamp as that special hose needs a high clamp force to crush down the spirals. I do have to go back and retorque them as the rubber takes shape over time. Same thing when I used that hose on the last buggy. When you get into the larger diameter low pressure, I believe it is not as much of and issue. That being said. I am still running T bolt clamps on the 4.5" air intake elbows. I don't think I have a single worm gear on the buggy.
Good spring clamps are not easy to find, most parts stores all carry the worm gears, while under the hood of a late model is all spring clamps. Makes no sense other than they are a pain to take off and on and deadly if they launch.
Click to expand...

For small stuff I use high pressure fuel injection hose clamps. That prevents the D effect. Also the narrow clamps cause less of a D effect. For big stuff if the hose is new you have to let the car warm up and then cool off then retorque to be certain. Also, use a small ratchet and a 5/16 or 8mm socket to tighten them. Your pocket screwdriver won’t cut it.

If you have ever had a spring clamp rust to the point that the ears bend instead of opening the clamp and then had to cut it off in an awkward place, you would not love them so much. I admit they do make a satisfying sound when they fly out of your clamp pliers to bounce off into a new hiding place under a toolbox :laughing::laughing:
 
Clb said:
Real quality AMERICAN MADE hose should not relinquish its capacity to seal, hold a shape, and just work!
phawkin chink hose :rolleyes: um no doubt.
Clamps from yesteryear still holding the 1954 fergy together today
Click to expand...

New hoses and new clamps should be heat cycled and retorqued. I bet that Fergy has had the clamps tightened once or twice in the past 60 odd years. :flipoff2:
 
Yup
and after the breakin shit should hold....
I bought some Gates hose from napa once, it had permeability issues right off the role!
they freebied it and tossed the role, shit happens.
I stand by my "it should work" statement tho!
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Worm gear clamps even when spring loaded are still garbage. Only time they should be used is for hooking up the clothes dryer vent lines. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

That's why I've had to go around and replace all the spring clamps on my chick's Colorado. :rolleyes: Since swapping over to good old worm gear clamps no issues.
 
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bdkw1 said:
That's why I've had to go around and replace all the spring clamps on my chick's Colorado. :rolleyes: Since swapping over to good old worm gear clamps no issues.
Click to expand...
The fact that you had to replace "all" the clamps instead of maybe one or two sounds like a preference rather than an actual issue. Same goes for replacing worm gear clamps with a spring clamp. There are only specific applications that I would run a spring clamp on and others that would be T bolt or AN or crimped or Band It clamps. That does not mean I would never use a worm gear clamp. I have used too many over the years mainly for non highway ag equipment, that is where I grew to dislike them so much.
Probably the only thing worm gear clamps have going for them is that they can fit a large size range so a few clamp assortment can cover a lot of applications. You can even daisy chain them together to make a super large clamp. But they are still garbage! :flipoff2:
 
I work for penske truck leasing and we use the gates heat shrink clamps in all coolant related repairs, with over 270,000 peices of equipment on the road. If they didn't work, we wouldn't use them.
 
I remember taking a class on these in Appleton for
Pierce training. I was hanging though, so still blurry.

:edit: puppy chewed my reading glasses. Masturbating does make one go blind.
 
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