What's new

has anybody ever chassis swap a vehicle?

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1216
Messages
561
Loc
Tahlequah, OK
For example my 67 build, there is a alot of thing i want to do that i think id be better off buying a new, wrecked, truck and bolting the body to that frame.


Things my 67 f250 doesnt have that i want. More gears, power steering, power brakes, a/c. I think if it were 4wd that would be cool too.

All the emotional attachment is to the body, the way it looks.

Id like to use it haul a rv, a gasser and np435 in the mountains isnt going to be fun.

I played around with the idea of diesel swapping it, but then i would just be left with everything else like getting power steering and disc brakes means i need all the suspension off a 73-79 f250

I think i could spend 2k on a wrecked 98-03 (preferbly 99-01) 7.3 f250 and gain everything i want in a better form for considerably less. zf6 4wd has a/c etc etc. Aftermarket suspension support.

Witha donor truck i could possible even move over the hvac box and have a/c. Major things to adapt...steering foot controls? obviously it just wouldnt bolt straight up but making body mounts inst that bad.

thoughts?
 
My methhead neighbor did that with an early 2000s Tahoe/yukon. He parked his project on my easement. Took me two months to get it towed away by the police.
 
there's a few of them running around here
pretty common option for the guy that can't weld and wants to order all their parts outta a catalog
 
You might check what your state "allows". In Calif(I know not the same state as OP), the frame is what determines the rig and if a custom new frame is created, it is considered new construction then determined by the engine:eek: From a legal standpoint, this means putting a "smog test exempt" body on a smog frame means your rig needs smog. I went through research for this about a year ago; "if you put a Honda Civic body on an FJ40 frame, you have an FJ40 with a Civic body that needs to meet any smog requirements as the FJ40".
 
. . . getting power steering and disc brakes means i need all the suspension off a 73-79 f250 . . .

:confused: are you talking about 4WD only? Our '71 2WD F250 has PS & front disc brakes from the factory
 
I’ve chassis swapped a Jeep before. Put a flat fender body on a CJ5 frame to get a V8, power disc brakes, better axles etc. In Colorado there’s no vehicle inspection so I just kept the flatty title and it was no issue. I made sure I disclosed that to the person I sold it to and he got it titled in his name no problem.

I’ve got a 1964 Ford single cab long bed F100 I want to body swap onto a mid 90’s F350 chassis. I want the 460/E40D D60/10.25 with hydroboost etc. I’m planning on doing it same as I did the Jeep but this one I’ll be keeping forever.

edit: I owned both Jeeps and both titles were in my name so it’s no like the vin for the newer frame wasn’t registered to me. I’ll do the same with the pickups.
 
Last edited:
I'd do some measurements. Modern trucks are drastically different in terms of the location of the cab, firewall, engine and front axle as compared to old trucks. Depending on the differences, and the work involved to make it all line up, it might be more worthwhile to swap the drivetrain over and maybe fab custom suspension.
 
I’ve chassis swapped a Jeep before. Put a flat fender body on a CJ5 frame to get a V8, power disc brakes, better axles etc. In Colorado there’s no vehicle inspection so I just kept the flatty title and it was no issue. I made sure I disclosed that to the person I sold it to and he got it titled in his name no problem.

I’ve got a 1964 Ford single cab long bed F100 I want to body swap onto a mid 90’s F350 chassis. I want the 460/E40D D60/10.25 with hydroboost etc. I’m planning on doing it same as I did the Jeep but this one I’ll be keeping forever.

edit: I owned both Jeeps and both titles were in my name so it’s no like the vin for the newer frame wasn’t registered to me. I’ll do the same with the pickups.

1995 F350 chassis, '67 M715. Done by PO. He shortened the frame in two places. I had to fix some janky details, like driveshaft lengths. I did a flyNdrive from Texas to Oregon, and it was great- 85mph all day, 11-15mpg. Napa parts are nice, when everyone else with a 715 is eBaying 50yo sparkplugs. 351/e4od/1356/BJ60/10.25

It's registered as a '67 Jeep Pickup' with the 6-digit Jeep dash VIN, because Ak doesn't really care. Geico wanted nothing to do with the weird VIN, or former military, so I've got Allstate.

20200621_140852.jpg
 
1995 F350 chassis, '67 M715. Done by PO. He shortened the frame in two places. I had to fix some janky details, like driveshaft lengths. I did a flyNdrive from Texas to Oregon, and it was great- 85mph all day, 11-15mpg. Napa parts are nice, when everyone else with a 715 is eBaying 50yo sparkplugs. 351/e4od/1356/BJ60/10.25

It's registered as a '67 Jeep Pickup' with the 6-digit Jeep dash VIN, because Ak doesn't really care. Geico wanted nothing to do with the weird VIN, or former military, so I've got Allstate.


That is f@cking cool!
 
I've done a chassis swap but it was a square body chevy to square body chevy :flipoff2: everything lined up and worked out fine.
When I was in high school we put a '55 pickup chevy on a '76 k10 frame. We built new body mounts to line up with the ones on the cab and bed we also shortened the rear of the frame. AFAIK it was registered as a '55.
 
[486 said:
;n117303]there's a few of them running around here
pretty common option for the guy that can't weld and wants to order all their parts outta a catalog

I can weld and fabricate, its not about ability its cost and effort to get the same result

:confused: are you talking about 4WD only? Our '71 2WD F250 has PS & front disc brakes from the factory

My truck doesnt have front disc or power steering. My steering box setup requires the whole front suspesion to be changed. Its also a 2wd truck.

So if i want 2wd power steering i need spindles, steering linkage and ibeams (different king pin) along with brake hardware, ps pump etc That would also net me front disc brakes. The most common one to find is to use the front setup from a dentside 73-79. They did have power steering and disc brakes in the bumpside trucks but its not common and its definitely not common on a f250. So your truck is pretty fuckin rare
 
You might check what your state "allows". In Calif(I know not the same state as OP), the frame is what determines the rig and if a custom new frame is created, it is considered new construction then determined by the engine:eek:

I do not believe that is correct, a new contruction aka "kit car" and you have a choice of what to use for smog requirements. It is not automatically defaulted to engine. But I believe there are only a limited number of certificates for that at the beginning if each year, usually running out in a few months
 
I do not believe that is correct, a new contruction aka "kit car" and you have a choice of what to use for smog requirements. It is not automatically defaulted to engine. But I believe there are only a limited number of certificates for that at the beginning if each year, usually running out in a few months
I talked with two different sources while asking about frame related topics... one was CHP and another at CARB. I was very explicit in my question about frame topics because I was considering a HD constructed frame for one of my projects. I specifically asked about a full on new construction frame and was told it was considered a brand new car(kit car) and smog would be determined by the engine that was installed. They did not give a damn about what body was thrown on it.

You are correct that new construction cars are fairly limited; I had heard that they run out very fast at the first of the year because of lines at DMV to get one.
 
Geico insured my square body chevy one ton CUCV trucks, maybe it is the vin digit count.

It was a cab swap onto cucv frame from a different year.

1995 F350 chassis, '67 M715. Done by PO. He shortened the frame in two places. I had to fix some janky details, like driveshaft lengths. I did a flyNdrive from Texas to Oregon, and it was great- 85mph all day, 11-15mpg. Napa parts are nice, when everyone else with a 715 is eBaying 50yo sparkplugs. 351/e4od/1356/BJ60/10.25

It's registered as a '67 Jeep Pickup' with the 6-digit Jeep dash VIN, because Ak doesn't really care. Geico wanted nothing to do with the weird VIN, or former military, so I've got Allstate.

 
Last edited:
I talked with two different sources while asking about frame related topics... one was CHP and another at CARB. I was very explicit in my question about frame topics because I was considering a HD constructed frame for one of my projects. I specifically asked about a full on new construction frame and was told it was considered a brand new car(kit car) and smog would be determined by the engine that was installed. They did not give a damn about what body was thrown on it.

You are correct that new construction cars are fairly limited; I had heard that they run out very fast at the first of the year because of lines at DMV to get one.

Whats limited are the certificates that allow you to choose to use "body year" as the basis for smog. If body doesnt resemble anything current, 1969 I believe is used.


5. Can the owner of a currently registered specially constructed vehicle apply for a new certificate of sequence from DMV?


Yes. As permitted by Vehicle Code section 4750.1 (b), an owner of a specially constructed vehicle may apply for a new certificate of sequence. This would allow the owner to establish a different model-year for the vehicle and potentially different emissions control system requirements.
 
Late 80s, put a Ford body on a Blazer frame. Guess I invented the 5ft box, eh?

2dc8.jpg
 
My understanding is the floorpan and cowl dictates what the vehicle is licensed as.
Kind of makes sense too when you think about it, replacing a rotted out frame doesn’t change the identification of the vehicle.
 
My understanding is the floorpan and cowl dictates what the vehicle is licensed as.
Kind of makes sense too when you think about it, replacing a rotted out frame doesn’t change the identification of the vehicle.

It depends upon your state. Calif says it is the frame. Call around; I already did.
 
I've done one. 1985 F150 on a 2008 crown vic police interceptor. In Ca, it smogs (and passes) as 2008 year . A CV swap would be too light for what you want to do because car frame vs truck frame but I can say this swap ride, handles and gets great MPG. I'd do it on an f-250 too by cutting the bed down but I wouldnt try to tow with it.

14733685_269352316799728_2995362775515004928_n.jpg


14712396_331564857218002_7067761692255453184_n.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 15007230_207570242986819_5581546864303407104_n.mp4
    1.6 MB · Views: 23
Geico insured my square body chevy one ton CUCV trucks, maybe it is the vin digit count.
It was a cab swap onto cucv frame from a different year.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure the 6-digit VIN threw them.
Very likely it's an issue with the local agent, not Geico.

I despise all frame swaps, I've never seen one that looked right.

So swapping all the drivetrain mounts, moving crossmembers, and inboarding/outboarding spring hangers is better, just to retain the stock frame channel?

Or are you the "Detroit made it, I bought it, that settles it." type?
 
It might be more worthwhile to swap the drivetrain over and maybe fab custom suspension.

This probably wouldn't be the cheapest way to do it, but in my opinion, one of the best options for a clean factory(ish) look.

I'd also be inclined to swap the front suspension over to the SD coil and radius arm setup.

7.3, ZF6, 05+ SD axles and suspension. :smokin:
 
So swapping all the drivetrain mounts, moving crossmembers, and inboarding/outboarding spring hangers is better, just to retain the stock frame channel?

Do it right, or dont do it at all.

having awkward gaps in the body, suspension/axle, and engine bay look like shit.

I'm not knocking your prized truck, it's just not my taste. Truthfully M715 are ugly as sin, and not in a cool way. So disregard my opinion all together.
 
I've done a pile of chassis swaps. It's not that big of a deal if you just bite the bullet and remove all the factory body mounts from the frame and start from scratch. When you try to make existing mounts work they're always in the way of something and compromises get made. You may get lucky on a couple mounts here and there doing a ferd/ferd swap but I wouldn't count on it.
 
I've done one. 1985 F150 on a 2008 crown vic police interceptor. In Ca, it smogs (and passes) as 2008 year . A CV swap would be too light for what you want to do because car frame vs truck frame but I can say this swap ride, handles and gets great MPG. I'd do it on an f-250 too by cutting the bed down but I wouldnt try to tow with it.


you put a truck body on a car frame?

you should be shot too.
 
Do it right, or dont do it at all.

having awkward gaps in the body, suspension/axle, and engine bay look like shit.

I actually agree with what you're saying, but that just means "Do it right". Like I said, if you're grafting two vehicles together, you've got to pick a place to cut. Engine mounts, or body mounts.

This same truck was previously on a Chevy chassis which left a 4" gap between the cab and bed. That looked hack.

Yeah, they are ugly. For me, in a good way. I sold a cherry 76 K20 to buy this, because I was tired of worrying about my shiny paintjob.
 
It depends upon your state. Calif says it is the frame. Call around; I already did.
I do not live in CA, in my state you can tag a outlaw dirt car...they dont give a shit

you put a truck body on a car frame?

you should be shot too.

Its hugely popular in this truck style and others, as is just swapping the front of the chassis over
 
Top Back Refresh