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Good boat choice. Fix the pivot ball on the Bravo outdrive before you even use it.

Change oils, order manifolds and risers, have them dipped and coated. Add Racor with drain bowl on the bottom for fuel water separation. Be ready to replace water system hoses with pex. Grab a new bilge pump, macerator pump and fresh water pump. Change impeller, if there's any pieces of the old one broken off, they're likely in the cooling system near the thermostat or housing.

Send it.
 
Can I go for a ride no not in the boat. I’ll be in Jacksonville on Monday

Sure, if you “swing by” Marianna.

Put food and strong, very strong drink in him and maybe.:flipoff2:

Do you know me?

Wasn’t that the boat that was sunk?

No

Alright now give us the details so we can shit on your purchase. :laughing:

25’ Formula. Big block. Stored inside its whole life. Everything on it is mint. The only thing scary is the motor only has 200 hours. (I worry about vehicles that sit)

Congrats dood! :beer:

Make sure your zincs and bilge pump(s) are good before you forget.



EDIT: that looks like a fish-catching machine :idea: - name it The Master Baiter

Zincs are good. I’m going to check out the pumps. You wouldn’t believe this, but we did the whole test drive with the plug out. We pulled it back out on the trailer and water is pouring out. He goes “oh shit, I thought it was kind of sluggish” (seemed fast as hell to me)

I do need to come up with a name.

Boat needs a camo job to match.

I would love that, but the ulpostery is perfect, so not going to happen. (Wouldn’t go together)

OP kill a bus load of nuns and orphans on the ride home and end up in jail?

It was kind of white knuckle. (Got home last night) it towed great, but I didn’t have it tied down very good in the back. I was afraid to put a strap over and mar the gel coat. It was heavier than I thought it would be, but not as bad as my excavator.

Good boat choice. Fix the pivot ball on the Bravo outdrive before you even use it.

Change oils, order manifolds and risers, have them dipped and coated. Add Racor with drain bowl on the bottom for fuel water separation. Be ready to replace water system hoses with pex. Grab a new bilge pump, macerator pump and fresh water pump. Change impeller, if there's any pieces of the old one broken off, they're likely in the cooling system near the thermostat or housing.

Send it.

Everything is perfect on this boat. The guy was a meticulous machanic. I will get pictures today. You can eat off the engine.

You sound like you know boats. What about these separate cooling water systems? Are they hard to install? He mentioned a system where you install a port on the cooling system and you can hook a hose and flush the engine while it’s still sitting in the water. (He gave me the muffs that flush it on the trailer)

What about “one way” drain plugs? That plug sounds like retractable landing gear. “There’s those that forgot and those that will forget”
 
What about “one way” drain plugs? That plug sounds like retractable landing gear. “There’s those that forgot and those that will forget”
If that's a thing now you should definitely get one and triple check it's in before you put the boat in the water. Sucks when you're feet start getting wet and you have to decide between flooring it to let the water drain or back on the trailer.... :homer:
 
More money than brains is a good place to be in life. :flipoff2:

I highly recommend this.

The only thing on the boat that doesn’t look prefect is the props. Not sure if you can see here, but they obviously hit some shit.

IMG_1839.jpeg


I need to file the burs.

For you trailer experts. How bad is this runner placement? Hard to see, but the two blocks covered with carpet are too wide and the boat is sitting to the right. The block on the left is almost off the flat ridge.

IMG_1841.jpeg


I had to drive down the dirt road last night, so it’s kind of dusty. I’ll get to it after breakfast.

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I highly recommend this.

The only thing on the boat that doesn’t look prefect is the props. Not sure if you can see here, but they obviously hit some shit.

IMG_1839.jpeg


I need to file the burs.

For you trailer experts. How bad is this runner placement? Hard to see, but the two blocks covered with carpet are too wide and the boat is sitting to the right. The block on the left is almost off the flat ridge.

IMG_1841.jpeg


I had to drive down the dirt road last night, so it’s kind of dusty. I’ll get to it after breakfast.

IMG_1840.jpeg
Damn it that’s another three hours west :lmao:
On second note looks just like a boat my buddy has down here in Pembroke Pines/hollywood Florida
 
Boat's on the trailer crooked. They're fine. can move them in a little if you want. ALWAYS strap down the back. For some reason Florida Man doesn't like to strap boats down.

Yep. Flush port would be good. If you're planning on trailering it, just get some flush muffs and run it on a hose when you get home.

There's freshwater cooling systems too that run coolant through the block and saltwater through a heat exchanger to cool it.

Old boat is old boat. maintenance or not. Carry spare trim relays, couple hose clamps, zip ties, Wal Mart Stanley tool kit or your go bag.
 
Damn it that’s another three hours west :lmao:
On second note looks just like a boat my buddy has down here in Pembroke Pines/hollywood Florida

Yea, it’s a hike. I was sitting in a parking lot and this guy comes up and says he use to have a boat just like it. I asked him for any recommendations or hints. He said when I blow up the motor, change the stern drive to a Brovo one. He said they handle power better. I said, does it not hold up to that power? He said, it will till I install a Bulldog 502 motor. He said after that, his would do 90 mph! Holly shit!

Boat's on the trailer crooked. They're fine. can move them in a little if you want. ALWAYS strap down the back. For some reason Florida Man doesn't like to strap boats down.

Yep. Flush port would be good. If you're planning on trailering it, just get some flush muffs and run it on a hose when you get home.

There's freshwater cooling systems too that run coolant through the block and saltwater through a heat exchanger to cool it.

Old boat is old boat. maintenance or not. Carry spare trim relays, couple hose clamps, zip ties, Wal Mart Stanley tool kit or your go bag.

So the strap won’t mark the gel coat? I will definitely have a tool kit. I got flush muffs with it, but those are no good when it’s in the water. I want to be able to flush it on the dock.

Why didnt you make the fenders for the Bronco the same height?

Fenders are based on axle articulation. The front doesn’t flex nearly as much.

Just figured out the Bimini top.

IMG_1846.jpeg


Tell me that ain’t pretty.

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Are the air cleaners always that small? I need some power steering fluid. Is that something special?
 
Are the air cleaners always that small? I need some power steering fluid. Is that something special?
yeah it's a spark arrestor- basically a stainless mesh screen door material- it doesnt restrict airflow much since there's not much dust on the water they need to filter out.
 
So I checked out the bilge pump. I put a bunch of water in the back and turned it on and it pumps like crazy. It keeps pumping till it’s empty. Then it keeps running till I shut it off. I thought it should come on automatically and turn off when done. Is it f*cked?

Checked the lights, good. I want to get a Trump flag. Running out of time.

Edit forgot the cool pic.

IMG_1851.jpeg


It has a Kenwood stereo radio that works good. There is a 10 CD changer in the cabin installed in a cabinet, but not hooked up. I still have some CDs, but I don’t know if it’s worth trying to figure it out. Maybe I could hook some kind of a blue tooth thing up?
 
So I checked out the bilge pump. I put a bunch of water in the back and turned it on and it pumps like crazy. It keeps pumping till it’s empty. Then it keeps running till I shut it off. I thought it should come on automatically and turn off when done. Is it f*cked?
there's a float switch which turns the pump on and off- its sticky from sitting and stuck on. there should also be a switch on the dash which overrides the float switch. If the float switch is off, and you flip on the override switch its normal for it to pump water out for 5-10 sec til the pump loses prime.
( a standard bilge pump running dry will not kill itself in short order, nor ruin any kind of impeller. it might eventually burn up from constant duty over hours/ days. ive had sticky float switches run long enough to kill a big ol group 31 battery dead but the pump still works for several more years)

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if its still pumping without the override switch on then the float switch is either integrated or separate. I prefer standalone if the bilge allows space for it. I like the rule super switch as it fails less frequentlly for me than the cheap walmart attwoods my buddy buys every 18-24 months.


I would never have a boat with less than 2 bilge pumps (both able to be manually switched in addition to float switch and a high water alarm ( second float switch above the primary float switch wired to a buzzer so you'll know if the bilge pump isn't keeping up or float switch breaks.

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I also wire my bilge pumps directly to the battery and not through a battery switch- if the boat's taking on water- I'd prefer that the pump to work until the battery dies- if the float switch sticks and kills the battery- that's an acceptable casualty/ inconvenience of needing to jump start her / cost of doing business.

my primary pump gets a light on the dash in place of this 'alarm device' secondary high water alarm gets a horn/buzzer:
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There is a a disc glued to the bilge that has wires coming out going to the bilge pump. This disc looks like a “potted” solid state sensor. Does that sound right? Not sure how it would sense water. I will get a pic tomorrow. Don’t see a float anywhere.
 
There is a a disc glued to the bilge that has wires coming out going to the bilge pump. This disc looks like a “potted” solid state sensor. Does that sound right? Not sure how it would sense water. I will get a pic tomorrow. Don’t see a float anywhere.
its probably a cage housing to keep debris from jamming a mechanical float.


they do make solid state bilge switches that need saltwater to help conduct current and 'contact' the switch. that switch doesn't work when rainwater fills the bilge. ( i speak from experience on that). solid state is uncommon but if the seller of your boat was an avid boater some like the theory behind it.

Id have no less than 1 mechanical backup if i had a solid state as primary
 
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its probably a cage housing to keep debris from jamming a mechanical float.


they do make solid state bilge switches that need saltwater to help conduct current and 'contact' the switch. that switch doesn't work when rainwater fills the bilge. ( i speak from experience on that)
I need to look closer. I don’t think it has any holes in it. It’s about 2” in diameter and 1/2” thick. My bilge is very clean, so not much junk to clog anything.
 
I need to look closer. I don’t think it has any holes in it. It’s about 2” in diameter and 1/2” thick. My bilge is very clean, so not much junk to clog anything.
if its solid state, it wouldn't make any sense that it was sticking on as you described, unless its a 3 way switch and you didnt realize

your bilge is very clean til water fills it up a few inches and washes out all the willow leaves hiding under the deck towards the pump (think about a siphon/ tub drain all the floating debris clogs the drain screen)
 
You already have a Bravo 3 outdrive, it will handle plenty of power but is prone to corrosion at the pivot ball, they are made of raw steel, not stainless.

There have been so many water sensing devices made in the 25 years since that thing was new that it's impossible to tell which one you have. If the pump didn't come on automatically, chase the wires to the battery, they should be wired like the diagrams. I personally like a good old float switch. They're easy to see and easy to unfuck. sensors are great for full dry bilge systems that are made to suck every little bit of water out. A regular bilge pump can't get every last drop and the sensors can short cycle. Pumps last a LONG time. I replace them whenever I get a new boat though just so I know. Keep the old ones as spares or emergency. My boat has 3 bilge pumps, forward, aft, and oh shit. Oh shit gets cycled once a year but water never get to it.

Yes spark arrestor, flow's good

PS fluid is PD fluid. but if it's missing, it's going somewhere, the PS ram is in the boat and connects to an arm behind the motor. Check for leaks.

Yes they have flush ports for Mercruiser

 
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You already have a Bravo 3 outdrive, it will handle plenty of power but is prone to corrosion at the pivot ball, they are made of raw steel, not stainless.

There have been so many water sensing devices made in the 25 years since that thing was new that it's impossible to tell which one you have. If the pump didn't come on automatically, chase the wires to the battery, they should be wired like the diagrams. I personally like a good old float switch. They're easy to see and easy to unfuck. sensors are great for full dry bilge systems that are made to suck every little bit of water out. A regular bilge pump can't get every last drop and the sensors can short cycle. Pumps last a LONG time. I replace them whenever I get a new boat though just so I know. Keep the old ones as spares or emergency. My boat has 3 bilge pumps, forward, aft, and oh shit. Oh shit gets cycled once a year but water never get to it.

Yes spark arrestor, flow's good

PS fluid is PD fluid. but if it's missing, it's going somewhere, the PS ram is in the boat and connects to an arm behind the motor. Check for leaks.

Yes they have flush ports for Mercruiser


Are you saying my boat would have come with more than one pump stock? Would it positively come with automatic system?

I guess I’m having a brain fart. What does PD stand for?

That first place linked is close to me, but they have terrible explanation of their product on that site. The second one sounds good.
 
Should come with at least one pump, was just using mine as example. There may be another one under the floor in the bow. Check with formula. Yes, I would expect it to come with an automatic system.

The D key is next to the S key. I'm hung like a lesbian, thick fingers. My bad. PS fluid.

I don't do much big block stuff but keep your eyes peeled for a spare or one you want to rebuild just in case. I've heard they are tough to find. I don't know this but my buddy's dad had a tough time finding one. He's not a mechanic and doesn't have the abilities to find good junk like most everyone on this site.
 
So here’s a pic of the pump.

IMG_1854.jpeg


You can see the disc to the right. The wires go from it directly to the pump. The pump power comes from under the motor where you can’t see.
 
Should come with at least one pump, was just using mine as example. There may be another one under the floor in the bow. Check with formula. Yes, I would expect it to come with an automatic system.

The D key is next to the S key. I'm hung like a lesbian, thick fingers. My bad. PS fluid.

I don't do much big block stuff but keep your eyes peeled for a spare or one you want to rebuild just in case. I've heard they are tough to find. I don't know this but my buddy's dad had a tough time finding one. He's not a mechanic and doesn't have the abilities to find good junk like most everyone on this site.

Turns out I was not looking at PS resivour. It was the “drive resivour”. It says right on it to use gear lube. I didn’t see any oil anywhere, but I suppose the seller could have it cleaned perfect. We only ran it 20 minutes. Today, my boat friend is coming and we our taking it out for a shake down run.

If this engine blows up, I will be getting a “Bull Dog” engine mentioned in an earlier post.
 
Cool. That's advertised as an automatic pump with a sensor. so there ya go.

Drive reservoir on these takes 90 weight, has an alarm if it gets low. Really fucking loud buzzer alarm.

Like I said, check the steering pin for the drive. made of raw steel, replacements are stainless.

Never heard of Bull Dog. Be careful of getting "One Guy'd" with boats. One Guy said his Bull Dog 502 would do 90. That's bullshit....

Edit: Bull Dog was a 542 and made 500 hp. Last made in 2001. 500 ain't pushing that thing 90. Sorry to crush your dreams.
 
There is a a disc glued to the bilge that has wires coming out going to the bilge pump. This disc looks like a “potted” solid state sensor. Does that sound right? Not sure how it would sense water. I will get a pic tomorrow. Don’t see a float anywhere.
Is that for your depth finder?
 
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