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$h!tbox Hackfab cobble build/repair, 1983 Truck slowly going back to the elements

IowaOffRoad

Imperator Donvaldus Ioannes
Joined
Feb 19, 2021
Member Number
3513
Messages
1,037
Loc
Under the apple tree
Thought I'd stir up some love and hate with my real (cheap) world repair/build of my rolled yesterday truck.
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So here's my shot from the Fail! thread yesterday. Come off a rock on the side of a ditch with no spotter the wrong way, while in a hurry to get down so I could help a buddy (who turns out to not have needed help) while not wearing my seatbelt:homer:, while not having the doors on (yes they still fit before this happened). Ran in this position, on its lid at a 45deg downward angle for about 20-30 seconds before reached in to shut it off (off-road modded Holley 390cfm, fuck your fuel injection:flipoff2:). This picture prompted a few questions that I hope to answer here.
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Picture of it back on it's wheels and running with windshield in the back. Steering shaft came apart (lengthening it an inch or so is on my to-do list). Put it back together after 2 jeeps were tied to it with their winch lines before I got in it to drive it out.
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Photos after I stretched the top back up with a forklift and a couple of well-place blocks and a 3 pound hammer, a couple of prybars, and a chain through the door latch loops to stretch the door frames back where they should be. Both door shut and latch now, if you can believe it.
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Used windshield back in it, had to tweak it with the forklift some more.
Will post more pictures in the morning with the bed off. Will explain some of what I've already done and what I'm planning to do.

For some perspective, this thing has a 1981 Toyota Celica GT 20R with a Holley 390 and an unknown header. 5.29 gears, spool in the rear, Spartan in the front. Stock axleshafts, G-series trans and T-case from a 1985, stock rear driveshaft from an 80's something IFS truck, modded stock front '85 driveshaft, IFS steering box and swap-meet hi-steer. Bastard pack front springs (stock '83 rears combined with 70's Dodge Power Wagon). IFS rear, wheel spacers in the front. New 3" lift rears from IBB parts counter. Ancient, mismatched 35's (OG non-KM BFG Muds in the front, TSL radials in the rear). Bought the gears, spool, and locker brand new along with the rear springs, bought the u-bolt flip and shocks off Ebay years ago. Bought Viper winch years ago (featured in my Chinese Winch Repair thread), Slag Fab steering box plates. Has 95 Rodeo seats covered with shitty O'reillys 'waterproof' seat covers. 90's something Toyota 1" master cylinder. I fabbed everything else myself; flatbar cross member (which I caught shit for the lack of trimming in another thread:homer:), shackles, frame bob, winch mount, tow points, floorboard and frame repair, roll bar, box, everything. So feel free to give all the shit to me for the crudeness of everything, it's really all my fault.

One of the reasons I started this is yesterday evening when BSing with one of my wheeling buddies (who has a nice TJ) was complaining of one of our group (J) who wants to wheel anything but a Jeep but is always having trouble and breaking stuff. "J" is a combination of cheap and doesn't want to work on his rig. My buddy's justification for Jeep? "You can buy anything you want and upgrade it so it won't break" (not exactly true but the basic point is valid). I told him, "J" is too cheap to buy expensive off-road parts, but is a good enough welder and wrench that if he got serious about building a rig he should build it like I did. "Jeep thing" kind of blinds the Jeep guys, he understood my point but wouldn't relent on the 'Jeep thing'.
If I were to build this thing from scratch, I would start with an IFS truck as you can buy one around here with the rear frame rot death for under 2K where everything else works fine. If I paid what I did for every other part I've bought, here's what I could do it for (not counting things I've bought and subsequently taken off):
IFS truck with rust-$1500
Steel to repair and upgrade-$500
5.29 gears with install kits-$500
Full spool-$90
Spartan-$280
swap-meet high steer parts-$25
Solid front axle-$200
Dodge springs-$50
Rodeo seats-$90
Winch-$300
Tires-$505 (Set of 4 BFG's and 3 TSL's, one of the BFGs has a large tear in the sidewall, boot and tube, use for spare(
Wheels-$50
Wheel spacers-$10
Tubes for tire (yes I'm running tubes with screws into the tire bead)-$80

Total is $4230 including truck purchase. This is close to what I currently have in it, probably a little higher as I bought this truck for $300 but I tried to be honest about what the used/swap meet parts would cost around here as I bought some of them in lots, and some of the parts I had from parting out other trucks years ago (like the $100 solid front all you west-coaster say is unobtainable for less than $500). This is discounting some of the nickel and dime hardware, but is an honest assessment of where I'm at. One of the plusses with starting with a IFS truck it it already has several of the things I had to upgrade to.

My point? This thing is pretty damn capable (though I'm biased) and I know of none of my Jeep friends who have a rig that is as capable for twice that investment. Now, I've spent a ton of hours on this thing (I probably have 60hrs in the bed and rollbar (the things I could do before 4 kids), but the overall point is you can play with the big dogs as long as you don't mind what your toys look like. One of my biggest accomplishments was following Ron George (he of TTC 'fame', 460 propane powered Bronco buggy painted orange, 54" tractor tires, won TTC in '05? I think) all around MIOBI in Iowa a couple of years ago and only couldn't go 2? places he went. Nobody else in our group would try to keep up, though I think one might have been able to.

So, what are IBB's thoughts? Want more details of my "upgrades"? Think it's a POS and I should suck-start a shotgun? Wonder what insane person would wheel this junk? Think I'm hittin' the crackpipe with my pricing? Think Jeeps rule and Toyota's drool (if so, why are you lurking in the Toyota sub:flipoff2:)? Yes, I know you can build an XJ for a similar amount, but I don't think you could build it as reliable as this for the same money. I have seen plenty of XJ's running around on 33's with spacers and a sawzall that probably only cost 2k total, but they usually end up a trail tampon or drug forcibly onto a trailer before the day is out.
I suppose the point of this post is to show everyone that you can have a ton of fun in a decently reliable rig without breaking the bank. It may not be pretty, but I've taken it down US77 south of Randolph KS at 70mph with my then 5yo in the passenger seat and felt like I wasn't going to kill him, so I feel it 'could' even be a road driver if you are so inclined.

Anyway, as stated previously, more pics tomorrow!
 
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Plate at back of cab is how you fix rotted cab corners/mounts on Jap trucks. Plate was actually build for Chevy Luv Diesel 23 years ago. I salvaged it when I scrapped the truck 18 years ago. Square tube and gusset menagerie is how I bridged it to the old front box mounts. Note 3.5" urethane cylinders, for mounts, salvaged from former workplace dumpster. You'll be seeing a few more of those later. Also note square tube replacement of crossmember/fuel tank mount/former shock mount. Also note remounting of shocks. Oriented that way when I went with the u-bolt flip. Yes, they are tipped too far. Did that to not have to buy different shocks when I built the new shock mounts. I actually welded a new mount to the new spring plate, then swung the shock fore and aft until I found a good placement for the upper. Orientation of shocks (one forward and one backward) is similar to many other rear leaf suspension layouts found today.

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Another shot of the back frame and all my shitty cobbling to keep the rust demon from dragging this truck to hell for good.

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Note trailer plug hanging out of back of cab. This is how I'm able to jerk the box off in 10 minutes flat. All my tail light wiring is ran through this 7 round trailer plug. I keep braking both ends of it due to body/frame flex, I'm cutting a bigger hole in the front of the box to hopefully alleviate this issue this time.
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:eek: Fuck you rust demon!:flipoff: Going to have to buy some fuel tank patch for this after work today and fix it. FML
 
Absolutely Nothing wrong with cheap "raisins" out here you would want more trans\t-case action but getting it done is the objective here right. ...
 
Absolutely Nothing wrong with cheap "raisins" out here you would want more trans\t-case action but getting it done is the objective here right. ...
With the current tire size (which I see no reason to change) the only real 'mod' I think I'm going to do barring major breakage is a 4.7 low range kit. I need another (lower) option when getting in heavy rock ledges and really technical stuff. Other than that I'm just waiting for the 20R to give up for me to shove a C223 Isuzu between the fenders.
One of the things that prompted me to post this up is how expensive everyone thinks this hobby needs to be. I have just as much fun as the guys with twice what I've got in this and I don't bawl when something rubs a body panel. The only reason why I was cranky when it rolled is the gas pouring on top of the hot engine from the vent (I'm installing an in-line valve for the future to shut this path off). If I had to keep it nice or hadn't developed the skills to fab a bunch of stuff with the experience of knowing how far I can push the low-buck theme without wrecking everything I couldn't afford to do this hobby given our families financial constraints. Hopefully showing my work and pointing people to examples of what it's capable of will prompt more folks off the sidelines, whether with a Toyota or something else.
 
Fukkyea
Cheap can be good!
Better yet the "no fukks given"tude makes it way more fun...
To add to the cheaper notion...
Here's the $16 k first gen hilux, and the $6k first gen taco.
Both @175:1 and +-200:1 cheap taco was a blast.
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Rubicon
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Backyard
 
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"Ran in this position, on its lid at a 45deg downward angle for about 20-30 seconds before reached in to shut it off (off-road modded Holley 390cfm, fuck your fuel injection:flipoff2:)."

Hell yeah!
:lmao: I routinely get asked "when you gonna fuel inject it" after having it on it's side in a v-ditch and driving out of it.
Yes, fuel injection is nice, but I don't like it when it fails. Had the screws vibrate loose on the holley that hold the halves together down at Kansas rocks. 15 minutes with a screwdriver and it's good as new. Had a couple jeeps flood the ECM and fail the crank and cam sensor. They get drug out with a rope (not singling out jeeps as electronic problems can happen to them all, just what I've seen first-hand).
I like the "hit it with a pair of pliers" simplicity of a carburetor.

My off-road philosophy is KISS. Can't break what you don't have.
 
I’ve been of the same mindset but don’t have a ton of trail experience with my own rig (in the process of changing that) so I’ve been a little worried about my motorcraft 2 barrel holding up rock crawling but you just made me feel a lot better about it.

So far it has been reliable and great at angles and inclines and I haven’t put the fuel bowl gasket mod or vent mod (from Brennan’s garage) on it yet.

Meanwhile in the Bronco world I’ve seen people fight with EFI retrofits non-stop.
 
I say run it, break it, fix it. Body has enough damage that you should no longer care. It seems like a capable rig. Wish I had one I could beat on like that, then bend it back straight enough to get the doors to close and a windshield installed. I built my rig out of a SUV I have had since it was new. I don't mind a little (I mean little) body damage, if unavoidable, but I take pains to avoid it. I don't do trails where body damage is inevitable.

Part of the capability of your rig is that you can scrape it up against a rock face, or put it on its roof and it's no big deal. Guys with a $70,000 Jeep might have a more technically capable rig, but won't do what you do with it because it cost $70,000. As long as you wheel with people who find you entertaining, and don't mind helping you off the trail from time to time, I'd say your good.
 
I say run it, break it, fix it. Body has enough damage that you should no longer care. It seems like a capable rig. Wish I had one I could beat on like that, then bend it back straight enough to get the doors to close and a windshield installed. I built my rig out of a SUV I have had since it was new. I don't mind a little (I mean little) body damage, if unavoidable, but I take pains to avoid it. I don't do trails where body damage is inevitable.
I agree with all of that. IF you have the money to build a rig like that, :beer: to you. I never get pissed at anyone who won't do an obstacle or a trail because of the risk to the vehicle. If this was a DD I wouldn't do what I do, thought if it was a DD I wouldn't wheel it at all anyway. My entire world hinges on me being able to bring home the bacon and it takes something reliable and not broken to do that.
That being said, I've wheeled with a few people who build said rig, talk their rig up, then either don't do any obstacles, complains about the rest of us doing obstacles, or marginalizes the budget rig because "its just a piece of junk". Then, off the trail, they shit on everyone else's plan (especially newbs who don't know better) and basically tell the novice that "you've got to run eLockers front and rear", "You won't be able to do shit unless you have (insert brand here) $5500 coil-over kit". It pisses me off when people who are essentially posers shame newbs or folks who are trying to get back into it since life happened 15 years prior and just want something to play with that's not a $50K JK or a $25K golf cart. Some of the people who pilot the high-end stuff actively discourage, even shame, those who want to run with that crowd but don't have the budget for it.

If you want to crawl the mall go do that, leave the dirt and rocks for those who actually like it. (BTW BDK I'm not talking about you and your post, I get where you are at and respect it).

When I was growing up, I read ALL the magazines. My favorites were 4x4 Power before they axed it, then Petersen's, JP (never wheeled a Jeep but I respected the tech) and Car Craft. The through line with all of those was, "get out there and play, use money wisely, trade $$$$ parts for sweat and work". I loved the higher end builds too as they are aspirational, but off-roading is a microcosm of society, and has trended the same way. All the focus is on the end-product of years of paying dues. Everyone likes seeing the 45yo dude with 5000 sq/ft of house and a Lexus. Nobody wants to look at that same guy 20 years before when he had a one bedroom rental and a Kia Rio. Same dude, different point in life, different goals.


Part of the capability of your rig is that you can scrape it up against a rock face, or put it on its roof and it's no big deal.
This is true to a point, but I've never laughed when I've fucked up the body. That being said, at this point it's certainly not as big of a deal as it used to be. I just don't want to catch it on fire, rewiring a rig is neither easy nor satifying.
Guys with a $70,000 Jeep might have a more technically capable rig, but won't do what you do with it because it cost $70,000. As long as you wheel with people who find you entertaining, and don't mind helping you off the trail from time to time, I'd say your good.
:laughing:What's funny about this last part is I'm usually helping others off the trail. Yes, I'm super-happy that everyone helped me put it back on it's tires, but I've been involved in way more extrications of 'nicer, more technically capable rigs', several times due to their over-cautious approach trying to keep from getting a scratch on something only to roll back into something worse or slide sideways into something they were trying to avoid.

Ultimately, I guess I wheel to push my rig and myself. Others build a rig that is way more capable than what they are doing with it in order to prevent any problems or breakage. If that's what gets you off I'll support you. If that's the only example for the newbs though, not many of them will ever start out with this hobby, or the off-road golf carts will take over. I've talked to many people who justify the 15-25k golf carts by (in their mind) them being cheaper than a JK build. Which they are, but there's more options than the JK build or the golf cart payment.

PS: disclaimer, I only used the JK as an example as that's what many people see and where much of the $$$ is getting dumped right now. Not a Jeep hater, I just prefer Toyotas. Just like how I don't hate the :rainbow: but I prefer to have sexual relations with a biological woman:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
Please expand on this point further.
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Here’s the C223 flywheel I’ve cut the step out of. Need to get some milk time to drill the dowel holes to mate the Toyota clutch to. Once that’s done and fitted I’m going to have it surfaced.
Probably going to run a 1/2” spacer (or whatever is needed to get the distance right) between the crank and flywheel as I’m going to machine an adapter plate out of 2 pieces of 1/2” plate that I can make a mounting flange out of (see crude 30 second drawing below):




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Not to scale and really shitty, but I didn't promise any better:laughing:

My plan is to use countersink bolts on both the engine and transmission side so both plates will sit flat.

I may fabricate a bellhousing, but this seems easier, if a little bulky. Unless someone has a better way that is bulletproof and won't lead to centering issues.
 
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Here's my hand-fabbed box. Main structure is 2x1/4" square tube with 12" square 3/8" plates in the corners that the roll bar is welded to. Roll bar is .093 x 1.75" roll cage tube. All the steel that forms the box shape is the aforementioned salvage Chinese steel pallet material of about 3mm thickness. Floor and inside is salvaged rigid bedliner. Got to fix that taillight wiring dangling:homer:. Used a brake from a stock car buddy to make the box sides, sides are steel "shipping tin" of about 18ga and galvanized.
You can see the notch cut out of the front of the box where the 'trailer end' of the wiring plug comes through. I've had to open that hole up quite a bit due to cab mounts shifting and frame flex breaking the plug. I just opened it up some more yesterday, I have to replace the plug again. Until you break the latch it stays plugged in off road and makes pulling the box for repairs/upgrades a 15min. job.
Don't look too close, I've got to cut off some of the hanging screws through the floor that is patching the 2 sections of floor together. I like this ribbed style because you can overlap it after cutting it and as long as you screw it off without stripping it it's solid enough to stand in (though if you get my 290# right in between crossmember of the box it feels squishy. Spare tire mount is a salvage yard 4runner? tailgate mount bolted to the floor. The angle comes from the compensation for slope of the tailgate. Spare tire cover is eBay junk for 35's. I usually keep my old 10k salvaged lift straps-turned jerk rope wrapped around the spare and pinned to the clevis with a camlock strap keeping it on.

It used to look like a factory box from about 30 feet with some dirt on it, since all the damage you can really tell it's not from Japan:laughing:
 
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Back together, a little worse for wear. LH tail light replaced, box wiring plugs replaced both sides of the connection, new bushings in rear cab mount, doors shut and front glass in. Ready for Tuttle:smokin: (except the RR tire that needs fixed)
 
My induction setup. 390 Holley with a crossover between the vents, holes drilled in crossover. Off-road needle and seat. For hood clearance using a dodge Dakota air cleaner housing from the late 80s with the factory inlet hose poked in the access panel to the cowl for a “snorkel “ of sorts. The Dakota factory air inlet snaps into it.
 

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You can build an extremely capable and good looking 1st gen. I've rolled mine hard and fixed it back like you did. Just keep building it. I'd suggest back halving it and really get it over on the jeep guys.
 
You can build an extremely capable and good looking 1st gen. I've rolled mine hard and fixed it back like you did. Just keep building it. I'd suggest back halving it and really get it over on the jeep guys.
This one’s never going to be objectively “good looking” again as decent bodies are rare in these parts, but if I don’t yank the drivetrain and stick it in something else I’ll probably have to back-halve it due to the condition of the frame. It’s seen better days (mostly from rust) and having multiple layers of repair becomes self-defeating at a certain point. But it’s fun:smokin:
 
I'm on both sides of the love\hate on beating the piss out of a truck. I mean if it's a truck that is already too far gone I don't have issue with it but it's the guys that have the money and just keep totaling nice rigs that I can't stand. I worked with a kid that totaled like 3 first gen yota's and his parents would just buy another one for him and it would start all over. Like seriously within a month of owning one it would be lift,gear,tires,paint,get drunk and bounce it off a tree\roll it, buy another one and start again. I know I know the poors are at it again but its hard to see someone destroying stuff nicer than what you have had as daily drivers. Again though, already beat up woods rigs are free game.
 
You definitely don't need to spend a lot of money to build a capable rig. My old Toyota was your cookie cutter build from back in the 2008ish time frame I started building. RUF bastard pack, 63s out back, stock duals, built Yota axles and 38.5" Boggers. It outperformed basically every rig in our wheeling group and stood up to a piss pounding, besides some ring and pinions every now and then.

Love seeing cheap truck builds that work!
 

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I just found this thread from the Christmas thread. If you ever build an adapter plate for a c223 to toyota trans let me know and I will buy one from you. I had planned on trying to build an adapter hub and using a toyota flywheel but maybe there is a reason that cant be done.

This thread makes me miss my first gen Toyotas. Every time I would have one, one of my friends would want to buy it and I would sell it. My friend is wanting to sell my second one back to me with all kinds of stuff done to it but I cant afford it right now.

Maybe I should finish my Isuzu. Too many projects and not enough time or money for them all. Im streched too thin and chase squirrels too much.

I look forward to wheeling with you again.
 
I just found this thread from the Christmas thread. If you ever build an adapter plate for a c223 to toyota trans let me know and I will buy one from you. I had planned on trying to build an adapter hub and using a toyota flywheel but maybe there is a reason that cant be done.

This thread makes me miss my first gen Toyotas. Every time I would have one, one of my friends would want to buy it and I would sell it. My friend is wanting to sell my second one back to me with all kinds of stuff done to it but I cant afford it right now.

Maybe I should finish my Isuzu. Too many projects and not enough time or money for them all. Im streched too thin and chase squirrels too much.

I look forward to wheeling with you again.
Thanks man. Winter's gonna be cold and I'm working right next to a CNC mill. Gotta finish my machined Isuzu flywheel to accept the Toyota clutch (which is what I want to do to keep the flywheel heavy enough) then decide if I want to mod a Toy bell or build one from scratch. I'll post it in one of the tech threads and tag you. If I get the bugs worked out shouldn't be too hard to build a "nice" version for you.:laughing:
 
I just found this thread from the Christmas thread. If you ever build an adapter plate for a c223 to toyota trans let me know and I will buy one from you. I had planned on trying to build an adapter hub and using a toyota flywheel but maybe there is a reason that cant be done.

This thread makes me miss my first gen Toyotas. Every time I would have one, one of my friends would want to buy it and I would sell it. My friend is wanting to sell my second one back to me with all kinds of stuff done to it but I cant afford it right now.

Maybe I should finish my Isuzu. Too many projects and not enough time or money for them all. Im streched too thin and chase squirrels too much.

I look forward to wheeling with you again.
How much does he want for it?
 
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