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Gravity Wagon Deer Blind

gbiddlec

Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
760
Messages
67
Loc
N. Indiana
So I've wanted to build a nice, insulated deer blind for awhile. I've got three kids that I intend to introduce to hunting and think keeping them warm is going to be key to keeping them interested. An insulated box blind should also help negate the movement and noise young kids make non-stop. In the meantime, until they start going out, I'll get to benefit from being warm and comfortable.

Given the investment of time and money necessary to build what I want, I wanted something mobile that I could move around my 20 acres or to other nearby properties if I wanted. So, based on an article in an old farm magazine I saw somewhere, I decided to build it on a gravity wagon. Through a friend of a friend deal, I found a smaller wagon for $200. It's old and ugly, bust in pretty decent shape. Not sure who made the box, but it may be a Deere, since JD green looks like the oldest of many coats of paint. The running gear is a Cobey, probably from the 60's or 70's. Not sure when this rig last saw farm service, but the newest of the mismatched tires is early 80's.

I've had the wagon for about 2 years, waiting for the right time to start this. I've got a friend from Nebraska, that's wanting to bring his boys out to try deer hunting in November, so that was the inspiration to finally get going on it.

The plan is to replace the runners and all the hardware that get an insulated floor in the box. Right now I'm planning on a shed roof with a 9' wall on one side and 7' on the the other. Door out the back, windows on the other three walls.
I started by pulling the box off the running gear. When I brought it home, I noticed the box runners weren't bolted to the gear, which made removal pretty easy. There weren't any great lifting points on the box. I ended up running chains under the box and over the top, then pulled it with my tractor and forks. I ended up kinking the box slightly, which became a pain in the ass later.

Once on the ground, I was able to flip the box on its side pretty easily by hand. Had some help from the pup.

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The old runners were sawmill oak. They weren't awful, but were starting to dry rot pretty good on the ends. Replaced with PT 4x6s. Ended culling the old bolts off and replacing with new. They were an interesting mix of different sizes and lengths. A couple looked like carriage bolts they'd ground flats on and sent it. Guess they held this long.

While I had the box tipped, I cutoff the stake pockets and anything else inside the box, that would interfere with the floor framing. I also replaced the gear hardware while I was at it.

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For the floor,I went with 2x8s for the joists. I want to insulate it as well. Since the bottom will be open to any bugs or critters that might get in the open box below, I used PT 1/2 ply glued and screwed to the bottom of the joists. To make this work, I decided to build the frame on the ground and then set it into the box. Once in the plan is to add foam board, sealed in in with expanding foam, then rock wool before the subfloor. While thermal insulation is a part of the concern here, my bigger concern is noise. I'm worried that giant open cavity in the box will amplify movement/noise from the blind above.

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Here's the original kink I put in the box side, followed by the kink I put in the opposing side trying to fix that mistake. I ended up getting them straightish with the tractor forks. But this made fitment of the platform a pain in the ass.

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I had a hell of time getting the platform lined up without dropping one corner/side in and getting cockeyed. I ended up hole sawing a couple joists to run slings through, so I could lower it evenly with the tractor. It was at this point, and in this position I ran out of diesel like a dipshit.

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The gauge on the tractor doesn't work. Reads full all the time, I don't burn that much usually and it just didn't cross my mind why the engine sputtered and died. After about 10 minutes of trying to figure out what was wrong, it finally dawned on me to check the tank. Luckily the fine folks at Deere, apparently planned for this kind of stupidity. There's a primer lever on the pump and a bleed screw on the filter housing, so I was back in business pretty quickly.

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Took some persuading with pry bars and a sledge but I eventually got the floor in place where I wanted it. There was a piece of angle welded in the box on the flat side for side boards to rest on. I used that as by baseline and set the bottom of the floor to that reference on all floor sides. Once it was set where I wanted it, I started bolting through the sheet metal and rim joists to hold everything together.

I wanted tie down locations on the corners. I'm somewhat concerned that this thing will be at risk of blowing over on bad wind days. Particularly out in the middle of a field on uneven ground. My solution is going to be ratchet straps and screw in ground anchors.

I ordered some Ching Chong fancy clevis mounts on amazon. One for each corner, and they double as lift points.

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With those installed, I forked it back onto the gear. I was a little nervous about wracking the box on uneven gravel. I wanted it back on the gear before I secured the rest of the floor framing to the box, figuring any wracking would come out of it once it was resting flat on the running gear frame.

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Once I got it where I wanted, I started bolting it to the frame.

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From there, I started bolting the framing to the box. I ended up with three additional bolts on the long side and two on the end. For now I didn't bolt the end with the door. I need to pickup another 2x8 and double the end joist. I'm thinking about a small porch outside the door, and want a solid place to mount from. I'll come back in and bolt that end once that additional board is in place. This is overkill, but I don't want this thing creaking and popping with people in it.

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This is where she sits for now. Next will be the floor insulation and subfloor. Then start looking at the stairs/ladder and "porch."
 
So yall just kinda hang out in your treehouse on wheels until a deer walks by?
 
So yall just kinda hang out in your treehouse on wheels until a deer walks by?
Pretty much. I've never actually hunted a box blind like this. Usually hunt from a tree stand or on the ground. We don't have the wide open expanses and large plots of uncrowded public ground like you guys do out west. The big thing around here is sitting on food plots, but any travel corridor works pretty good.
 
P

Sweet! Why not just shoot em out the window of the pickup?


We don't have the wide open expanses and large plots of uncrowded public ground like you guys do out west.
That might just be the funniest thing I have ever read:lmao:

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P

Sweet! Why not just shoot em out the window of the pickup?
DNR gets pretty snippy about that.
That might just be the funniest thing I have ever read:lmao:
I just meant uninhabited, not full of building and farms, etc. I've never hunted the PNW, but I understand its a lot of what you posted and mountains. But that there's a bunch of ground open to hunting?
 
Didn't get a ton done this weekend with some work and family stuff that came up. But I did get the floor done and figured out how I'm doing the stairs/ladder.

For the floor I started with 2" foam board, cut into strips to fit in the joist bays. I ran expanding foam around the edges, to work as an insect and vapor barrier.

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After that, I put down a layer of rockwool, before buttoning it up with 3/4 T&G plywood.
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For the steps, I saw I pretty slick system on a youtube video of a couple guys building one of these. Once I get them built, they'll hang on these pins (the stair-side brackets are hanging on there in the pic) and then can be removed easily. For support, I doubled up the end joist on the inside and then ran another 2"x8" on the outside, more as a spacer than anything structural. I'm hoping to get them built next, then cut the door opening into the box.

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Steps are done-ish. I think I'll add one more tread at the top, but I'm sort of waiting until I get the door in to see out how everything feels. Stringers and tread are both PT 2"x8". I guessed at a 9" rise, probably would have done 11" or 12" rise if I did it again. The shorter rise is good for the kids, but the stairs are heavier than I'd like. Only real screw up was centering, I'm off by 1 1/2", due to how I set the pins. I ended up cutting the opening wider by 2" on both sides to account for door trim, so it's at least less noticeable.

Overall, I'm happy with them though. There's very little bounce in the treads, which was a concern. Also no squeaks/creaks The treads are dadoed into the stringers 5/8", then glued and screwed. All the edges got a 1/4" roundover.

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Next came framing. I ended up building each wall on the ground, then lifting it up into the bin and setting it. The back and sides around 6', the front will be 8', giving me a 4/12 pitch for the shed roof.

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To save on weight, I left out the window headers. The 6' end walls weren't too bad to maneuver up there, but the 10' walls were a bit of a struggler. Added the headers and cripples once the four walls were set. Added double top plates once the cripples were in. I did a lot of the cutting and construction in phases, all my windows are the same size, height and spacing, so it was easy just to cut and build things in batches, off one pattern. This system worked great until I got to the window headers. I had in my head, a measurement of 36 1/2", which is the rough opening width. I built all my headers (5 total) without stopping to check after the first one. When I went to set the first header, I was 3" short. I forgot to account for the jack studs. Fortunately, I had enough lumber to rebuild them, but it was definitely a frustrating moment of stupidity.

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I glued and nailed the walls into the floor, but as an extra precaution, I added some lag screws through the box side and into the studs. Ended up with 4 per long side and 2 per short. This helped suck the kinked box sides in too.

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With the walls done, I started on the roof. This is my first shed style roof, so it was a bit of a learning curve. I started playing with a pattern to get the birds mouth right on both sides, and eventually tuned it up to the point I was happy with it.

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Added five more and then tarped it. They're calling for rain a couple days this week. We'll see if the cheap tarp holds up. Just want to keep the infloor insulation mostly dry until I get it dried in.

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Next step will be the side overhangs and fascia, then purlins. Also need to get cripples or some sort of nailer in at the top of the end walls. Hoping to get metal ordered this week.
 
Not a huge amount of progress. But I did get three sides sheathed. Took Saturday afternoon off to hunt on a friend's deprivation permit. Saw five deer and got a nice doe for the freezer.

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Then added some cripples/blocking between the end top plates and trusses, and cut in the windows.

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I decided to go ahead and sheath it before I add the fascia and roof extensions on the end walls. I think running the plywood up to cover the end trusses, should add a fair bit of strength to the roof, and help tie it to the walls.

I still need to get the last end wall sheathed, then finish up the roof framing.
 
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Looks tippy!
Yeah, we'll see. I've got the tie downs on each corner so I can run ground anchors in and strap it down when parked. Plus I figure if it's tippy when being pulled, I can add some ballast in the bin cavity under the floor. But so far it's been pretty stable while working on it.
 
Knocked out the sheathing on the last remaining side today. I still have the little bits on the door sides at the bottom. I think I'm going to use treated ply here. With how I'm planning to trim/install the door, the edges will be exposed to the weather. Plus I have some treated scrap from the underside of the floor. I ended up cutting up one of the "mistake" headers to make blocking on each side of the door, mostly to support the cut edges of the bin tin. It will also provide good backing to those little sheathing rectangles.

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Next was fascia and purlins. Had to re-tarp everything with rain in the forecast for tomorrow.

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Steel for the roof should be in Monday, so hopefully I can get everything dried in next weekend.
 
I'm most of the way to dried in. Started with house wrap and a bubble foil roof insulation. I know this bubble foil stuff has pretty mixed reviews, but I'm hoping it cuts out condensation, especially if I go with a propane heater. I put it under an unheated shed roof a few years ago and have had zero condensation issues, so I'm hopeful.

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Then on to windows. I went with tinted glass, double sliders. 36" x 11" for all five. For anybody interested, I got my windows from these guys:

Deer Blind Windows | Cleburne, TX - The Original Deer Blind Window Co.

Overall I'm happy with the quality. They were a little sloppy with sealant and miters, but the tinted glass seems good and the fit/dimensions were dead on. They're also quiet, as long as you're gentle.

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I screwed up when I ordered metal and didn't account for the fascia boards. My sheets ended up about 3" short. After some thinking, and bouncing it off a couple buddies, I decided on adding an extra purlin at the top and just running a piece of corner trim across the top/front. I needed the purlin to catch the screws for the roof side of the corner trim. I think this will actually make it a little more water and wind tight, but time will tell. The panels weren't awful to manage, but it wasn't fun hauling them up a 12 foot ladder as a one man show. Everything from here out, should be pretty easy. It's kind of fun working on such a small project. Each step goes pretty quick, so you don't get as bogged down on the more mundane portions.

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I grabbed inside instead of outside foam closures, so I need to exchange those before I get the front trim piece on. Once that's out of the way, the roof will be done. I need to install the door, or at least the trim for it, then I can flash the walls out over the box sides. Then soffit/fascia and siding.
 
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Got the last piece of trim on the leading edge of the roof.
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Got the door hacked in. I got an RV door for free from a neighbor. It's surplus, with a hole in the screen. So it was probably installed at one point and then yanked out. But from what I can tell everything bu the screen is in working condition. The rounded radius edges made framing this in a real pain. I got some composite trim from menards on clearance. I'm not real sure what it is. It's heavier/denser than PVC, but the outside finish isn't as nice. I ran 1x4 on the sides and and 1x6 on the top. I cut out the radius with a jig saw on top to match the door. It was kind hacked up the way I did it, but it came out fine. From reading up on this stuff online, it claims it can be stained like wood. So I stained it a little darker and it took it pretty well.

The only real issue with the door is that it didn't come with the trim for the sides and top to cover the screws. Lippert sells all three pieces pretty cheap but wants $127 to ship them about 5 miles (LCI being based in the same county I live in). I'll check with a couple local surplus yards, or just do without. I'd like particularly the top piece for a little extra water proofing, but with the overhang I don't think it's strictly necessary. I also need lock cores, but those should be cheap.

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Next I flashed the walls to the bin sides. I found some deck flashing that was just about perfect. The only issue is the corners of the bin having a little extra bracing. This causes the flashing to sit proud on the corners. I'll probably throw some rivets in. After the aluminum deck flashing I threw on some vycor adhesive membrane that I had left over from a prior project.

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I ended up about 18" short on the deck flashing so I'll have to get another stick of that to finish that stage. I did get my F channel up for the soffit. I hope to knock that and fascia out this weekend. That'll leave siding and insulation to be huntable this season.
 
Got out hunting Saturday and connected with another freezer doe.

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After she was taken care of, I got all the soffit up.

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Then today I ran the fascia. I had thought I'd need 8" fascia for the back but never actually measured, ended up that 6" would have been perfect. Got myself a good hand work out with the snips trimming that piece down. Other than that, it went pretty smoothly for going by myself.

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I had to go into work both days this weekend, which cut into my progress. But I got the flashing finished up and started on siding. I always forget what a pain in the ass it is to trim around windows, everything else went smoothly. I ended up getting the two long sides done. I ran out of vycor on the end window, so it works out somewhat, as I want to pick up something to flash in the last window.

I really debated metal vs. the vinyl. Ultimately, I don't have a whole lot of experience with metal and don't have nibblers or some of the other tools that would make life easier if I went that route. I do have the tools and moderate experience with vinyl. I also had enough siding left over from residing my house to cover the entire blind. I only had to buy a few pieces of J Channel and the corner trim. I figure they move mobile homes with vinyl siding all the time so transport should be a big issue.

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I also installed rivets in the metal box flashing. That really helped lay the flashing flat on the seams and corners.

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I'm starting to get up against the wire time-wise. My buddy is bringing his kids out to hunt the opening weekend of firearms season. So I've got one weekend left to get this thing hunting ready. As long as the weather holds out, I should be good.

Still need to do the following:
-Get some painted screws to tack in the top piece of siding on the sides. I'm not confident they'll stick in place bouncing around in the field
-Finish the siding
-Fill in the gap below the door
-Insulate the walls
-Carpet
-Figure out seating and a heater
-Nail down the tie-down system
 
Just remember it’ll hunt the same as is right now with a buddy heater 😃 awesome job!! Our season opener is this Saturday !
 
Just remember it’ll hunt the same as is right now with a buddy heater 😃 awesome job!! Our season opener is this Saturday !
Thanks!

I agree that it's good to go as is for adults. My thought is carpet on the floor and some rock wool bats in the walls will go a long way in sound deadening for noisy kids. Plus those are easy and quick to knock out.

A buddy heater is my plan for this year. I may look at one of the 12v diesel heaters or some sort of LP with external venting for next year. I'm worried about condensation with the LP but it's a big enough space with the open/vented soffit, I'm hopeful it won't be too bad.
 
Absolutely ! But, we toss a carpet remnant in ours once a year and it’s good to go . I wouldn’t staple the carpet down . Moisture and mold finds its way in deer blinds you will want to be able to quickly remove it . Buddy heater is the only way to go , just don’t wait until Thursday to find the little propane bottles cause they will be sold out . Rain-x anti fog on the blind windows is an absolute must !! Keeps the heater from fogging out the windows . Most important part is darkness inside blind ( black walls) the deer cannot see you if so, we have purposely moved all around experimentally with young dumb bucks to test the theory.
 
We ran carpet on the walls (up to the windows) to help with sound.

Also, a 2x4 or 2x6 wrapped in carpet makes a good and cheap gun rest. We have them attached to the walls at window height.
 
Absolutely ! But, we toss a carpet remnant in ours once a year and it’s good to go . I wouldn’t staple the carpet down . Moisture and mold finds its way in deer blinds you will want to be able to quickly remove it . Buddy heater is the only way to go , just don’t wait until Thursday to find the little propane bottles cause they will be sold out . Rain-x anti fog on the blind windows is an absolute must !! Keeps the heater from fogging out the windows . Most important part is darkness inside blind ( black walls) the deer cannot see you if so, we have purposely moved all around experimentally with young dumb bucks to test the theory.
Yep, got the anti fog and already got 1lb LP bottles. I ordered some adhesive back carpet squares for the floor. I wanted remnants but don't have the time to stop in at the local flooring places. We'll see how the carpet squares do. I have the concern about moisture. This thing should breath pretty well, but you're still going to be tracking in water/snow.
 
We ran carpet on the walls (up to the windows) to help with sound.

Also, a 2x4 or 2x6 wrapped in carpet makes a good and cheap gun rest. We have them attached to the walls at window height.
That's kind of the plan for next year. Ran out of time to get that done for this season. I plan to figure out a ceiling and some sort wall covering. I'm thinking carpet on the walls and window ledges, then those acoustic foam squares they used in recording studios for the ceiling.
 
FWIW we used a similar style tie down to this for a bigass trampoline and havent had any problems with it moving around... you may need 8 of them for your blind though....


 
Skip the 1lb bottles and get the line and filter for running a bbq tank. I'll burn through a 1lb bottle in a hunt, where the bbq tank lasts all season.

There's way less than 1lb in those little bottles. But keep 1 or 2 in the stand for when that 20 pounder ultimately runs out in the middle of a hunt.
 
FWIW we used a similar style tie down to this for a bigass trampoline and havent had any problems with it moving around... you may need 8 of them for your blind though....



So I looked at those and wasn't sure they'd be good enough. I ended up ordering these:


We'll see how they are when they come in. But the ability to run them in with an impact and be rated for 3k lbs was the selling point. Plus being an American company I trust them a bit more than Amazon. I'm gonna be real unhappy if this thing tips over, so I figured it was worth the extra investment.
 
Finished the siding up today:
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Got that gap under the door filled with some scrap trim, stained to match the door trim. Then got the insulation in.

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The neighbor through a sheet of 1" foam board in my barn a couple weeks ago when I was out of town. He had it left over from a project and I thought it might come in handy. Haven't looked at it closely yet, but if there's enough, I may cut it up and use it to fill in the end walls at the top.

Carpet tomorrow, and maybe that foam board tomorrow. Last of the corn came out today so I think I'm going to try and set this thing tomorrow if I get the above done. I picked up some cheap desk chairs from amazon. Need to figure out something for the kids this weekend, leaning toward 5 gallon buckets.
 
Filled in the gable ends with foam board. Probably not worth much for insulation value, but maybe it will help with sound and it was free.

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Then installed the carpet squares. I wasn't real impressed with those, but they're just fine for this application. They definitely quieted it down some. I used the scraps on the window sills.

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I installed a couple RV bubble levels so I could try and get this thing semi-level in the field.

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I got it close enough with a hi-lift and some 2"x6/8 scraps. For next season I think I''m going to get a set of camper leveling jacks and bolt them to the runners.

She pulled pretty good. There was only one sketchy moment when I pushed it (by hand) out of the parking spot so I could get the tongue accessible. Once it the slope in the driveway it started to get away from me. But I had kinda of expected that and had a chock handy to throw behind the wheels. I still think I'll probably add some ballast in the bin, and if I did another one, I'd probably have made the tall side a foot shorter. You can't tell it's pretty top heavy.

But, here she is in place:

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I'm super happy with the ground anchors. They took about 30 seconds per anchor to drive in with a 1/2" impact in relatively sandy ground. Windows got a coating of rainex and the chairs are in, so she should be set for the weekend.
 
This is just a FYI, we used the foam board as insulation, and we used great stuff to secure it. Well, there must have been space for mice to get between the foam and the sheathing, and when we would fire the heater up, the mice would wake up and create the most grotesque buzzing/slapping/vibrating noise with their tails as they shimmied around. It was nasty. We ended up pulling all the insulation and just running the heater full blast.
 
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