EndlessMtnFab
Well-known member
Solder them in while you have the case torn down?
Flex-Seal YO !
Solder them in while you have the case torn down?
Meanwhile on the Dana 24.Here is a fix someone on the old board did to hold their caps in place:
That would be pretty easy to replicate.
To make it a little cleaner, I'd make a flat plate that is drilled for an interference fit with the caps. No bends, just one flat plate with the caps sticking through. Chamfer the case holes and an o-ring compressed by the plate for a little more clamping force or maybe epoxy the caps into the plate.
Whole bunch of useful info. Read previous post if you need to see what he said !
the Nitronic 50 and/or Nitronic 60 shafts represent a good possible rail replacement. Carbon steel strength. Better than 3XX stainless corrosion. More gall resistant. With a price to match, of course. Talking $120 or so for 2 feet (1 foot per rail, rougly). Add the machining cost to that.
Thinner seals make sense. I wonder how easily a groove can be machined into the shift rail housing. Get an X shaped "o-ring" in there.
Now watch ..... I seal that up .... and it starts leaking from an area I've never had leak before.
The Nitronic series is pretty cool stuff, but I'm curious, why the push for SS?
LoL, isn't that the way it always is?
Semi on topic, how much gear lube or oil are you running in flipped configuration? I assume it needs to be a different quantity than non-flipped?
Also, now that I’m saying that, have you tried different fluids to see if something thicker might leak less?