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FJ62 Adventuremobile

Are you taking into acct the weight of camping gear, tools, refrigerator, enough beer for me (and possibly a hidden flask) in your rear end weight? You may want a little nose down rake to account for this in addition to fuel.

I just set up my TJ about an inch higher in the back to account for tools and cooler.
 
gnarbicon said:
Are you taking into acct the weight of camping gear, tools, refrigerator, enough beer for me (and possibly a hidden flask) in your rear end weight? You may want a little nose down rake to account for this in addition to fuel.

I just set up my TJ about an inch higher in the back to account for tools and cooler.
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There’s more rake than it looks like in the picture. It’s still a guess, but the win is that im within range of not having to mess with the hangers or anything.

It may get helper bags at some point too, coolers and mountain bikes hanging off the back etc
 
I know I am preaching to the choir, just a reminder to not forget about uptravel. Adventuremobile will hopefully be running down gravel and forest service roads loaded down with gear and kids and you want to be able to let that "Fat Girl Breathe" and get some woohoo's from the back seat and not teeth chattering and sippy cups flying. Even with leafs; proper uptravel and tuned shocks will allow for smiles for miles.
 
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Not done, not running, but I’m finally going to update this thread. :flipoff2:
 
Ok so excuses first:

A baby arrived in the household in early March, so my lens of concentration was forcibly shifted to other household tasks that did not necessarily involve creating rad things in the shop.

Whilst I have not updated this junt since December, I have continued to make slow progress. I have included some highlights, some may be duplicate, some may be worthy of a deep dive. Just let me know.


First up:

Left side is trans cooler, it's a B&M unit plumbed with gates hose and some AN hardware. I used fuel injection clamps because I have had standard worm clamps cut the hose over time and start to seep. I'm honestly not sure that these will be better but we'll see

Right side is a power steering cooler, it was actually a GM transmission cooler that I got from the junkyard. I honestly think that a PS cooler is overkill, but i guess it never hurts.

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If you need a high pressure line like this, let me know chaplinfj60 Steering is one of the few systems that is completely done. I ended up with a Trail Gear drag link, it was just too easy since they sell them in all sorts of lengths to fit an FJ80 TRE
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I need a cast iron hawse fairlead or to swap to synthetic rope. If you have either laying around, let me know :flipoff2:

You can see where I cut my hood for clearance vs the air cleaner. In hindsight, I might have done that differently. Luckily the ribs are all broken and detached so it's not like I have to worry about noise.

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So I had a hard time deciding how to make the air cleaner work. I genuinely considered PVC, but I came up with this instead K&N or Airaid make some products that would work, but they were very expensive for what they are. I broke out the fiberglass and grafted some more exhaust tubing into a cut section of the stock intake. It doesn't photograph well, but its pretty sweet.

The plan is splatter paint to match my Samurai or bedliner to hide the imperfections.
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Fuel stuff.

Should have kept the stock 62 sender and plumbed it with fresh hoses into the stock hard lines. I'm really not sure what I was thinking, but this is going to work great and be serviceable on the road.

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Fuel filter is off of a 2006 Colorado or something.

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I made a technology shelf for all of the what have yous and etceteras. I tried to find the shelf that the smog equipment sits on, but I must have tossed it. So I ended up making this instead.

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Some fuel system pics. I'm running the stock hard lines that I adapted to -6 with some compression fittings. Fresh hoses everywhere else, that stock stuff was old.

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Extended brake lines are done. You can buy some aftermarket stuff for like $150/line, or but a couple of Rock Auto $10 lines and screw them together. Don't even try to tell me it won't work :laughing:

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New speedo cable, it was hard to find. Specter offroad might have the last ones in the states.

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Throttle cable is done. Long story, but I actually built a sweet bracket for a DBW pedal before realizing that my free.50 DBW harness wouldn't work on this engine. Luckily it is super easy since this truck had a cable on it to begin with. Adapting a cable to an FJ40 that originally had a throttle linkage is a pain in comparison.

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I put a leaf back in the rear pack because gnarbicon said so. That puts me only one leaf short of the full pack that I had before, SUA. It won't be too tall, I was just being dramatic. I will need an anti wrap bar, I'll deal with that later.

You can see that I have two lower shock mounts in this photo. That is not because I am building a race car, it is instead because I forgot to cut off that original FJ80 mount. I'll get to that too.

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"We do it right because we do it twice"
-Dirthead Dave

So I made a pretty decent boo boo when I was mocking up my suspension. I ended up with a pretty big problem opportunity.

I mocked everything up with some junk yard stock springs. I severely underestimated how much beefier the aftermarket springs are. I know better, I just didn't engage my brain. The Barnes coil bucket were a snug fit with my mock up springs, the aftermarket ones were very much a problem.


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I consulted my local Jeep specialists and determined that a rear JK 4.5" spring would probably work.

Unfortunately I would still be left with 2 problems.

1. I wasn't super happy with how my coils sat, the buckets were just a little too far forward on the frame
2. I'd be doing all of this work and running JK parts, thats a tough pill to swallow.

So I cut off all of my work, moved my shock tower back, tilted it a little bit, and made some new coil buckets.

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I need to get it all welded up, but it is now money.
 
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I’m officially back to where I was two or three weeks ago. The front and rear fender to hub distance is the exact same right now. Once these new springs settle in, it should be just about perfect. If it isn't, easy fix.

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DirtRoads said:
5x37x12.5x17 basically new bronco raptor take offs. About$1k off of retail felt good, but still 75/tire more than I paid for brand new Firestone MTs in early 2020.
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Nice buy. I went to look at a set similar to that a few weeks ago but the date code was 07. I passed. 37" is a great size for a 60 series truck.
 
Cool build, should be a fun driver.

Have you upgraded the locking hub studs? ARP studs are cheap insurance over the factory Toyota's which I've seen sheer right off.

You probably already know this but those air cleaners are the best design I've ever seen from the factory. They're bulky, but meant to process African/Australian dust for weeks on end without cleaning. Good call keeping it.
 
Roc Doc said:
Cool build, should be a fun driver.

Have you upgraded the locking hub studs? ARP studs are cheap insurance over the factory Toyota's which I've seen sheer right off.

You probably already know this but those air cleaners are the best design I've ever seen from the factory. They're bulky, but meant to process African/Australian dust for weeks on end without cleaning. Good call keeping it.
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Thanks. Stock studs are still in place. They’re on my list of things I’ll go back to, like a trans skid and rear armor etc. I’m focusing on essentials right now :laughing:

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If you squint hard enough, you can see the train at the end of the tunnel.
 
DirtRoads said:
Thanks. Stock studs are still in place. They’re on my list of things I’ll go back to, like a trans skid and rear armor etc. I’m focusing on essentials right now :laughing:

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If you squint hard enough, you can see the train at the end of the tunnel.
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We used to joke about that in the old place. Everybody broke Birfields, so Bobby Long fixed that. Then they were breaking steering arm studs and KP bearings, Marlin fixed that. Then it was the locking hubs or the hub studs, ARP fixed that. Then it was R&P's, so 66Dean or whatever name was fixed that with cryo'd gears. Then someone broke a 21sp xfer output, so guys went to the 23sp. What's next, snap the crankshaft in two? :laughing:
 
I ordered this sticker a while back. It came with a bunch of wires and some sensors that I need.

Sick.


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It came with double pink, the indisputable champion of starburst flavors.

Sicker



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DirtRoads said:
Thanks. Stock studs are still in place. They’re on my list of things I’ll go back to, like a trans skid and rear armor etc. I’m focusing on essentials right now :laughing:

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If you squint hard enough, you can see the train at the end of the tunnel.
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This builds cool!!

I'm running stock factory new toyota studs, both steering and hub f/r and wheel the piss out of my junk with no issues. I do plan to upgrade to the physically larger cap screws eventually. Joez convinced me to stick with new factory Toyota fasteners when I built my fj60 axle a few years ago.
 
Slander said:
This builds cool!!

I'm running stock factory new toyota studs, both steering and hub f/r and wheel the piss out of my junk with no issues. I do plan to upgrade to the physically larger cap screws eventually. Joez convinced me to stick with nee factory Toyota fasteners when I built my fj60 axle a few years ago.
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Thanks.

A lot of cruiser people are absolute die hard OEM parts fanbois. Sometimes they are just nerding out, but I find that they are right more often than not.



I’m probably 1/3-1/2 done with the wiring. It’s going smoothly. I enjoy wiring, so it is a welcome change to not have to force myself quite as hard to go out and work :laughing:

These dudes showed up. Im planning to mount the tires up Friday so that I can take poser engine hoist flex pictures this weekend



Same wheels I have on my Suzuki. I can’t find a receipt to see what the price increase is vs early 2020, but I :think: it was right about $20/wheel
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DirtRoads said:
Thanks.

A lot of cruiser people are absolute die hard OEM parts fanbois. Sometimes they are just nerding out, but I find that they are right more often than not.
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I pulled all my stock stuff and threw everything fastener ARP made for my old front axle years ago. After the first two major breaks of the ARP's, I put the stock shit back in. Fresh studs with fresh nuts in clean threads, and I've never had another issue. Just keep them torqued.

Definitely a cool build, thanks Slander for tagging me so I can follow.
 
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