DirtRoads
Uninformed
I leave town for a few days and look what shows up 30 minutes later
Last edited:
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Always!
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
whats in the fancy box
DirtRoads
Uninformed
Adapter and twin stick kit hopefullywhats in the fancy box
SUM-G9080
VHT so that we can continue to look handsome whilst occupying every jack stand that I have to my name.
Finished product pic later. Maybe.
Last edited:
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
so do them make different cast iron manifolds for the LS, i mean that dump in different locations? random thought that i will need to look into. hmmmmm
DirtRoads
Uninformed
The truck manifolds will smack into your frame rails. Order these and you can use either an aftermarket (or one you make) engine mount using the truck mount or an engine mount like advance adapters offers.
I have a set of Cruiser Matts Offroad mounts that I’m going to use. The price was right. I’ll put up some pictures later
DirtRoads
Uninformed
Engine mounts: been in the bottom of my toolbox outside for a year.
BBP aka big black pipes
BBP aka big black pipes
DirtRoads
Uninformed
Opened up my big old box of WTF. Looks like they were kind enough to put the hardware for the twin stick and adapter in the same bag Fucking Californians trying to save the world.
Fucking Californians trying to save the world. DirtRoads
Uninformed
Tranny whisperer of sorts.
DirtRoads
Uninformed
It should look like this:
My dumb ass left my transmission output bearing on the transmission I sold to an Arkansas guy with a smoking hot girlfriend.
Had to order a replacement to install onto the AA shaft in order to trick my transfer case into thinking it was still installed onto a yota trans.
Most people would rebuild their tcase at this point with a new bearing kit that includes the bearing in question. I’m not most people and installed that bearing kit just a couple of years ago.
My dumb ass left my transmission output bearing on the transmission I sold to an Arkansas guy with a smoking hot girlfriend.
Had to order a replacement to install onto the AA shaft in order to trick my transfer case into thinking it was still installed onto a yota trans.
Most people would rebuild their tcase at this point with a new bearing kit that includes the bearing in question. I’m not most people and installed that bearing kit just a couple of years ago.
DirtRoads
Uninformed
Last edited:
DirtRoads
Uninformed
I’m really straying from my convictions with this truck. Coil springs and the parking brake is connected and working, nothing but luxury.
80 cable is as bolt in as you could ask for. I had to add a couple of mount tabs, but otherwise it went together without much drama. Which is perfect, because I’m sure I’ll end up destroying it.
80 cable is as bolt in as you could ask for. I had to add a couple of mount tabs, but otherwise it went together without much drama. Which is perfect, because I’m sure I’ll end up destroying it.
Last edited:
DirtRoads
Uninformed
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
the cable shifter???
DirtRoads
Uninformed
That is the ebrake cable. If you ever remove yours from its mount in the floor, use that trick before you bust out the gas axe
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
very cool trick for sure
mano002
Newbie
I have fought with 60 series parking brake cables for years and never thought of this. Brilliant.
gnarbicon
Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2021
- Member Number
- 3556
- Messages
- 11
I never used a wrench but typically use a hose clamp. Wrench would be much quicker if you have access to slide it over end of cable. If you're in a position where you can't slide the wrench over the end of the cable put a hose clamp over it, tighten, slide the tabs through then loosen the clamp to push it all the way through.
DirtRoads
Uninformed
So not only was I short a transmission output bearing for the Toyota side of the equation, Advance Adapters also accidentally shorted me their output bearing that presses onto their shaft and into the adapter itself. Their directions are obscure and their drawing actually doesn't include the Toyota bearing. Once the Toyota bearing showed up, I had a huge aha moment and noticed that there were two pockets machined for two bearings.
It's easy to figure out where extra parts go. It is confusing to take a drawing that doesn't include parts that you need, and then figure out what you need and where it goes :laughing.
So I was on a parts hold for that until today.
I forgot to buy gasket sealer earlier today, so now the tcase install is on a gasket sealer hold
This week I did go ahead and drill and tap the front output housing for the new detent ball/spring for the manual shift conversion. I also did a mediocre job of scraping years worth of transmission leak grime off of my transfer case housings to get them ready for reassembly.
I also got the new shifter shaft and shift fork mated up
I removed the fwd interior so that I can do whatever I need to do with the shifters. I ordered the cheapest Dynamat knock off that Geoff had in stock an threw that down real fast.
It is called Siless. I'd put it under carpet where gravity is helping it stay in place. I would spend some more cheese if I were putting this behind a headliner or in a door.
It's easy to figure out where extra parts go. It is confusing to take a drawing that doesn't include parts that you need, and then figure out what you need and where it goes :laughing.
So I was on a parts hold for that until today.
I forgot to buy gasket sealer earlier today, so now the tcase install is on a gasket sealer hold
This week I did go ahead and drill and tap the front output housing for the new detent ball/spring for the manual shift conversion. I also did a mediocre job of scraping years worth of transmission leak grime off of my transfer case housings to get them ready for reassembly.
I also got the new shifter shaft and shift fork mated up
I removed the fwd interior so that I can do whatever I need to do with the shifters. I ordered the cheapest Dynamat knock off that Geoff had in stock an threw that down real fast.
It is called Siless. I'd put it under carpet where gravity is helping it stay in place. I would spend some more cheese if I were putting this behind a headliner or in a door.
Last edited:
DirtRoads
Uninformed
I took a quick two hours tonight to get here
I had this gap between the adapter and transfer case that I couldn’t fix
After a ton of head scratching and measuring, I finally figured out that the snap ring OD was like .005 too wide to fit into its slot in the Toyota case.
Snap ring
Home is the second step down
I turned the snap ring down on the angle grinder, put it all together, realized I forgot to put RTV under the spacer right behind d the AA adapter, took it back part, applied rtv, put it all back together, and opened a beer.
I had this gap between the adapter and transfer case that I couldn’t fix
After a ton of head scratching and measuring, I finally figured out that the snap ring OD was like .005 too wide to fit into its slot in the Toyota case.
Snap ring
Home is the second step down
I turned the snap ring down on the angle grinder, put it all together, realized I forgot to put RTV under the spacer right behind d the AA adapter, took it back part, applied rtv, put it all back together, and opened a beer.
DirtRoads
Uninformed
There is definitely more time invested in this than I want to admit. It is quite the design masterpiece
At least the beers stay cold in my 35 degree igloo.
At least the beers stay cold in my 35 degree igloo.
DirtRoads
Uninformed
The rear is too high, the front caster is pretty whack and these FJ cruiser wheels are fugly, but this is pretty cool to see
She’s rollable enough to get underneath the engine crane
. Unfortunately that will likely be next week
The front should come down to about right. Caster correction is easy, I already have the stuff. I’m going to pull another leaf out of the rear and see what happens, but I’m betting i will be doing one of the following
-frenching a shackle hanger
-going SUA with some tall mini truck springs
-going to Chevy 63s with a different hangar configuration.
She’s rollable enough to get underneath the engine crane
. Unfortunately that will likely be next week The front should come down to about right. Caster correction is easy, I already have the stuff. I’m going to pull another leaf out of the rear and see what happens, but I’m betting i will be doing one of the following
-frenching a shackle hanger
-going SUA with some tall mini truck springs
-going to Chevy 63s with a different hangar configuration.
DirtRoads
Uninformed
DirtRoads
Uninformed
It's in there. These engine mounts made it way too easy, I made a few adjustments to make the fit up a little better and called it good. Left/right engine placement pretty much solves itself. I placed the mounts flush with the bottom of the frame, then shoved the engine as far back as I could while still leaving room for accessing all of the things.
Going far aft meant that I only needed to adjust my transmission crossmember .75" to work with the stock frame mounts. I just welded the old holes shut and drilled some new ones, easy peasy. This should make the tcase shifters go together a little easier.
Pic doesn't show, but we're still pretty high in the rear. The current plan is to swap front springs, shave the spring perches in the rear, and reassess. There is about 1" to gain in the spring perches, I'm not sure why they left so much edge distance.
Now that the bald eagles are in there, I can now begin working on the ~200 loose ends that I have left all over the place.
Last edited:
Hodgiemoto
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2020
- Member Number
- 2950
- Messages
- 173
Mighty ambitious project, kudos to you
DirtRoads
Uninformed
I found an easy 3/4” to lower the rear. The first move is to try this with some different front springs and see how it looks. The current front springs came off of the axle donor truck and are probably stock and clapped out. I have some Old Man Emu mid weight/stock height springs to try.
Thanks. I’m happy to see things beginning to try to come together. By some standards, this is nothing
Thanks. I’m happy to see things beginning to try to come together. By some standards, this is nothing
Last edited:
DirtRoads
Uninformed
I haven’t had time to mess with anything between prepping for a wheeling trip to RBD, going on a wheeling trip, and then unpacking from said wheeling trip
So tonight I messed with rear suspension until I got tired of floor jacks.
Once that happened, I played with the twin stick kit. It bolts right in once you spend two hours reworking everything. The high/low shifts great and still has plenty of edge distance from the body. I’ll finish the 2/4 shifter this week then cross them off the list after a little paint and shift boot work
So tonight I messed with rear suspension until I got tired of floor jacks.
Once that happened, I played with the twin stick kit. It bolts right in once you spend two hours reworking everything. The high/low shifts great and still has plenty of edge distance from the body. I’ll finish the 2/4 shifter this week then cross them off the list after a little paint and shift boot work
DirtRoads
Uninformed
It has been a productive week here at the HPM4X. The weather has been crap so I have been trying to take advantage of it.
Got these shifters done. I don't want to spend any more time complaining, but this is a very good example of doing the right thing the wrong way. 3 little tweaks of this kit and it would be money, but right now it is a complete pain in the ass.
But it is done, and it works
No, it is not pretty. This isn't instagram.
I spent a little bit of time executing some state of the art spring rate tuning adjustments. Simply put, I removed a bigger leaf and added a smaller leaf back in. That yielded some results combined with the chopped spring perches.
U bolts, U bolt plates, and a replacement spring perch for the one that I ruined with an angle grinder ordered from Barnes.
I expect things to change with the added weight a front bumper, fuel, the rest of the engine install etc, but I am well within tolerance to level it with front spacers.
Also note the caster correction plates installed on the radius arms. Caster came out more whack than expected, luckily I had ordered these with the expectation of needing them. Installed and final torqued the radius arms. Shocks will go in once I'm happy with the spring height.
Got these shifters done. I don't want to spend any more time complaining, but this is a very good example of doing the right thing the wrong way. 3 little tweaks of this kit and it would be money, but right now it is a complete pain in the ass.
But it is done, and it works
No, it is not pretty. This isn't instagram.
I spent a little bit of time executing some state of the art spring rate tuning adjustments. Simply put, I removed a bigger leaf and added a smaller leaf back in. That yielded some results combined with the chopped spring perches.
U bolts, U bolt plates, and a replacement spring perch for the one that I ruined with an angle grinder ordered from Barnes.
I expect things to change with the added weight a front bumper, fuel, the rest of the engine install etc, but I am well within tolerance to level it with front spacers.
Also note the caster correction plates installed on the radius arms. Caster came out more whack than expected, luckily I had ordered these with the expectation of needing them. Installed and final torqued the radius arms. Shocks will go in once I'm happy with the spring height.
Last edited:
DirtRoads
Uninformed
It's a motivating sight.
I'd really prefer to use this stock air cleaner. It looks right and I can appreciate the originality. However, fat girls breathe hard and I'm not sure my big 'ol redneck American V8 can work with it as configured.
I may chop this thing up and weld in some muffler pipe as shown:
The potential height concerns me. If things get too friendly with the hood, I may go Dirthead Dave style with a Donaldson air box like I did on my Samurai.
I'd really prefer to use this stock air cleaner. It looks right and I can appreciate the originality. However, fat girls breathe hard and I'm not sure my big 'ol redneck American V8 can work with it as configured.
I may chop this thing up and weld in some muffler pipe as shown:
The potential height concerns me. If things get too friendly with the hood, I may go Dirthead Dave style with a Donaldson air box like I did on my Samurai.
Last edited: