What's new
By:
Filters

Family Size Rat crawler build

I’ve been slowly chipping away at this whenever I get a chance. Thanks to this forum I was able to get my lower control arm mounts up into the belly and get desirable geometry. Since I never really know what I’m going to do next or when I will be able to get out into the garage again I decided to make my own axle mounts and strut towers so I wouldn’t have to wait for them, and I couldn’t find exactly what I thought I wanted either. I was hesitant on building the towers out of square tube but I kinda like how they turned out.


Also: Are there any decent 44-46” tires on the market anymore?
IMG_0910.jpeg
IMG_0913.jpeg
IMG_0932.jpeg
IMG_0933.jpeg
IMG_0949.jpeg
IMG_0948.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I get to start on the front now! I have the motor mounts built, trans mount semi built and axle cleaned up and ready for a 3-link. I think I am going to use the factory 02 GM steering box that came with the engine and transmission for mock up and then purchase the big bore box from PSC when I’m ready to roll. What’s the go to for HD steering linkage and joints right now? I have broken and bent several 1 ton Chevy TREs and tie rods. What is the next step?
IMG_1002.jpeg
IMG_1009.jpeg
IMG_1011.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0980.jpeg
    IMG_0980.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 33
Cool truck,you were right to part out the old one. Things change,time moves on and there's no point in being stagnant or sentimental.
 
Yea it's a lot of pages, but the guy does incredible work due to what's required in Australia to do what he's doing.
 
Last edited:
I have always used the furthest hole from the pivot point with hi-steer kits and that has always worked out best for me. But right now I think using the closest hole to the pivot joint would work best. Do you see anything wrong with that even with 42-46” tires? It’s about 5.5” from the BJ which is the same length as my pitman arm. Hydro assist should make up for minimizing my leverage, right?
IMG_1138.jpeg
 
Nothing quite like stuffing 10lbs of crap in a 5lb bag. It’s been a battle figuring out where to fit everything but it’s coming along slowly. Bought a Griffin radiator that I think should fit in a tight space and still do enough cooling. I am still figuring out what to do for a tie rod that won’t bend my first trip out and still have enough clearance for everything to cycle freely.
IMG_1169.jpeg
IMG_1223.jpeg
IMG_1234.jpeg
IMG_1236.jpeg
IMG_1186.jpeg
 
I have had good luck with 1.5in solid “stressproof” material. It requires drilling and tapping threads and it’s a “non weldable” material. I’m sure you could weld it in a pinch but for ram assist you’d need a clamp.

Anyways, I could bend brand new 1.5in .25 wall tie rods first trip out and this one has been on for 2 years now and still holding strong
 
I had to stretch my front 3-4" (can't remember the exact figure right now) to get all the stuff I have under the hood and it was still a major head- scratcher to make it work. I built a truss off the front of my axle to protect my tie-rod. Kind of like a full-hydo mount. How wide is that radiator?
 
csutton7 said:
I had to stretch my front 3-4" (can't remember the exact figure right now) to get all the stuff I have under the hood and it was still a major head- scratcher to make it work. I built a truss off the front of my axle to protect my tie-rod. Kind of like a full-hydo mount. How wide is that radiator?
Click to expand...
I think the radiator is 26w x 15.5 tall.
I probably should have raised my front frame rails a couple inches, that would have helped package all the steering links. Or full hydro.
 
26" wide radiator will have to sit behind the headlight buckets. Are you stretching the front or moving the engine back 6-8" or more? I had to notch my headlight buckets to get my radiator to fit and I think it's 22" wide, but maybe it was 24" and you can't get anything wider than that in there.
 
csutton7 said:
26" wide radiator will have to sit behind the headlight buckets. Are you stretching the front or moving the engine back 6-8" or more? I had to notch my headlight buckets to get my radiator to fit and I think it's 22" wide, but maybe it was 24" and you can't get anything wider than that in there.
Click to expand...
The front half of the cab had an 8 cylinder Y block in it and looks modified for it to set back into the firewall a bit. I moved the LQ4 as far back as I could into the firewall so I’m sure it sits a little further back than factory. I plan to modify the front grill headlight assembly as needed and it looks like the radiator will sit slightly into the headlight buckets. I might go with LEDs anyway so I’m not too worried about it. I did some rough measuring and everything looks like it will fit.
 
I'll try and get a measurement off of my firewall to something on the motor to just give you some dimension info to work with once the weather allows for it. My LED's still only allowed my radiator to just fit after notching out the headlight buckets, but they are the 7" round ones, so if you use something else you may be able to slide the radiator behind them.
 
ridered3 said:
Awesome build! Got any updates?
Click to expand...
Thanks!
I have been working on the steering when I get time. I built a double sheer pitman arm from an old drop pitman arm I had in my scrap pile. I think I have the drag link and high steer where I want them, I’ve still got to double sheer the high steer but I’m going to wait until I get ball joint eliminators and do all the axle work at once. It’s almost time to pull the body off and finish welding the frame and suspension. I bought 1 1/4” Rareparts 2” offset tie rod ends and a Redhead steering box for a 93-98 GM 2500.
IMG_1317.jpeg
IMG_1315.jpeg
IMG_1311.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh