• Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
  • We're moving data around, images may be off/on over the next few hours. Nothing is lost aaand no ... Nothing will Change Fo2

F.R.T Trigger

pwerrec

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2020
Messages
69
Anyone have any luck using one of these in anything but a 16" ar? Tried it in my 10" barrel but the trigger won't reset. It will strip and load a round. I'm thinking I need a heavier buffer but looking for advice.
 
pwerrec said:
Anyone have any luck using one of these in anything but a 16" ar? Tried it in my 10" barrel but the trigger won't reset. It will strip and load a round. I'm thinking I need a heavier buffer but looking for advice.
Click to expand...
Of course you need a heavier buffer. This is well documented. H2 minimum. H3 is better. The H2 is on the lighter side. M16 buffer was over 5 ounces.
 
Did the heavier buffer fix it? I’m considering a GMR SS for my KS-47 with a 10.5” barrel.

I have two different types for the AK. I’m going to test them out today. I guess I have too much AK ammo laying around or something.
 
Got the two AK farts working properly…finalfuckingly. I need to get them out next weekend and put them through their paces and see if anything else breaks. If you’re considering doing an AK, the Mars trigger from Alfa Tactical is more expensive, but the way to go. Avoid the Harrison Gun Works/Deez Nutz Tactical versions. The trigger instructions are wrong and there’s no replacement parts availability when **** breaks.

Ordered the **** for the KS-47. Hopefully Trump will reverse the Rooskie sanctions so I can cheaply feed all this ****! :flipoff2:
 
Last edited:
Don. said:
Got the two AK farts working properly…finalfuckingly. I need to get them out next weekend and put them through their paces and see if anything else breaks. If you’re considering doing an AK, the Mars trigger from Alfa Tactical is more expensive, but the way to go. Avoid the Harrison Gum Works/Deez Nutz Tactical versions. The trigger instructions are wrong and there’s no replacement parts availability when **** breaks.

Ordered the **** for the KS-47. Hopefully Trump will reverse the Rooskie sanctions so I can cheaply feed all this ****! :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Igman isnt bad and there is corrosive stuff out there on the cheap as well if you dont mind cleaning up after that.

I have two KS47s (one 16", one 10"....). I had to send the 16" back to PSA for chamber QC issues. I got it back and it seems better. I bought a 10 pack of Magpul AK mags since they seem happier with those than the Croatian mags I was running...which work fine in all of my other AK platforms.

As for the FRT in the KS47, there might be clearance issues you will have to deal with. Runs no problem in my 7" 5.56 tho
 
None of these are drop in, at least they’re not for me anyway. I plan on playing with them to get them functional. My only two failures in guns was the HiPoint chronicled here and one of those Zip .22’s that were notorious pieces of ****.
I’m liking the results and it beats the **** out of watching a game or playing prairie pool.
 
Don. said:
None of these are drop in, at least they’re not for me anyway. I plan on playing with them to get them functional. My only two failures in guns was the HiPoint chronicled here and one of those Zip .22’s that were notorious pieces of ****.
I’m liking the results and it beats the **** out of watching a game or playing prairie pool.
Click to expand...
My biggest improvement was a Red recoil spring and a H3 buffer on my pistol. YMMV but it ran like a scolded puppy after that. Suppressed makes it impressively usable.
 
I have a bunch of various springs and buffers & weights from tuning an sbr and mg I have. The fine tuning is the best part of getting **** running. I haven’t mastered the AK FRTs, but I’m getting there.

I ordered the AR bits from supersafetyshop.com on Sunday and got a shipping notification today. They also have a replacement transfer bar for the **** kits I got from Harrison Gun Works and Deez Nutz Tactical that was the premise of the order.

The guy responded to me within minutes of sending an email on Sunday and he wasn’t a dot injun or Nigerian prince. I’ll see how the Hoff’s transfer bar compares to the chinese **** my AK has broken twice.

 
Finally got these two running and quickly burned through a couple hundred rounds today. The fukn shorty AK is figuratively and literally a blast to shoot. I haven’t tried it without holding the foregrip yet :smokin:

IMG_3225.jpeg
 
Just recieved a DTT one in the mail. Do you lube these like any other trigger? I do have an AR 10 that has a Triggertech drop in that says do not lube.
 
I lubed mine and it runs well in my 16 inch 5.56. I started this thread about an AR9 which I haven't messed with again, though I have the heavier buffer as was recommended, just haven't messed with it further. I'd say the lube wasn't the problem with it running, and there are more moving parts and lots more friction as everything will be moving more. Many more here have tons more experience with these but I wouldn't not lube generously on these. I used a grease on the heavier friction points as well.
 
If it moves and contacts something, it gets lubed. I’m surprised that more of you fockers aren’t interested in these.
 
Last edited:
Installed it last night and ran a mag of 5.56 and one of .223. Mag of 5.56 had one jam where the bolt was on top of the back of the round and the .223 had three jams of the same thing. PSA 16" upper with S&W lower, KAW H3/5.4 oz buffer and spring, 5.56 was Freedom munitions new in a gen 2 pmag and .223 was Freedom munitions reman in a Magpul Tmag. Put this trigger in an extra lower so I can swap out to different uppers. Have a S&W Voulunteer upper that came with a bolt carrier that is not full auto. Figured out that will not work. Lol Edit: brass was ejected to the 4 o'clock position.
 
Last edited:
Don. said:
If it moves and contracts something, it gets lubed. I’m surprised that more of you fockers aren’t interested in these.
Click to expand...
My states laws are really fuzzy around FRTs. Binary triggers, bump stocks, cranks ect are directly called out, but FRTs don't squarely fit into this. And I'm not willing to be the Guinea Pig to test the legal theory on this one.

RATE OF FIRE ENHANCEMENT
Under the act, “rate of fire enhancement” means any device, component, part, combination of parts, attachment, or accessory that:
1. uses energy from a firearm's recoil to generate a reciprocating action that causes repeated function of the trigger, including a bump stock;
2. repeatedly pulls a firearm's trigger through the use of a crank, lever, or other part, including a trigger crank; or
3. causes a semiautomatic firearm to fire more than one round per operation of the trigger, where the trigger pull and reset constitute a single operation of the trigger, including a binary trigger system.
By law, “firearm” means any sawed-off shotgun, machine gun, rifle, shotgun, pistol, revolver, or other weapon, whether loaded or unloaded, from which a shot may be discharged (CGS § 53a-3).
Click to expand...
 
NotmyJK said:
Installed it last night and ran a mag of 5.56 and one of .223. Mag of 5.56 had one jam where the bolt was on top of the back of the round and the .223 had three jams of the same thing. PSA 16" upper with S&W lower, KAW H3/5.4 oz buffer and spring, 5.56 was Freedom munitions new in a gen 2 pmag and .223 was Freedom munitions reman in a Magpul Tmag. Put this trigger in an extra lower so I can swap out to different uppers. Have a S&W Voulunteer upper that came with a bolt carrier that is not full auto. Figured out that will not work. Lol Edit: brass was ejected to the 4 o'clock position.
Click to expand...
I'd run a springco red or blue and see if that helps any. How is your rate of fire?
 
D_JEEPER said:
I'd run a springco red or blue and see if that helps any. How is your rate of fire?
Click to expand...
His gun is way overgassed. He needs to slow his bolt down. An extra power spring isn’t going to fix anything.
 
Aisin said:
His gun is way overgassed. He needs to slow his bolt down. An extra power spring isn’t going to fix anything.
Click to expand...
You can absolutely compensate over-gassing with a heavier buffer spring to a point, but it does not fix the root issue. Enter my suppressed 7" FRT. Brass at 4 o'clock does not sound over-gassed, mind you.
 
D_JEEPER said:
You can absolutely compensate over-gassing with a heavier buffer spring to a point, but it does not fix the root issue. Enter my suppressed 7" FRT. Brass at 4 o'clock does not sound over-gassed, mind you.
Click to expand...
Mike at SOLGW just did a video on this very subject 2 weeks ago. A stiffer spring doesn’t fix anything. It’s a band-aid. There’s a huge difference between a pistol length gas system with the correct gas port size and a 16 inch carbine. 99% of carbine length gas systems are over gassed. The only correct way to fix this is more mass. SOLGW from this point forward will be selling ALL of their carbines with an A5 buffer system. With the A5 buffer tube you can use a 6.34 or a 7.2 ounce buffer both of which will cycle just fine in a 16 inch carbine and it will actually fix the issue.
 
Aisin said:
Mike at SOLGW just did a video on this very subject 2 weeks ago. A stiffer spring doesn’t fix anything. It’s a band-aid. There’s a huge difference between a pistol length gas system with the correct gas port size and a 16 inch carbine. 99% of carbine length gas systems are over gassed. The only correct way to fix this is more mass. SOLGW from this point forward will be selling ALL of their carbines with an A5 buffer system. With the A5 buffer tube you can use a 6.34 or a 7.2 ounce buffer both of which will cycle just fine in a 16 inch carbine and it will actually fix the issue.
Click to expand...
Again.... brass ejecting at 4 o clock is the green zone. He is already running a H3. You shouldnt need an A5 buffer system to have a functioning weapon. Sure that is a nice setup but should not be necessary with the platform. If your fanboy company is doing something different, then maybe they should spec their barrels differently to have a different gas port or something. As I said, you can absolutely compensate over-gassing with a heavier buffer spring TO A POINT.

Sounds to me NotmyJK is having bolt override which could very well be his magazine not keeping up with the feed rate. Magpul or not (doesn't change physics), you can still have weak spring issues.

Start by loading 30 rounds and giving it a run at that capacity. Where does it fail in the magazine's round count? If it is consistently towards the last few rounds of the magazine, I'd pull the mag spring out and give it an experimental stretch-out by a couple of inches resting length and reassemble. Load 3 rounds and test. 5 rounds, test, 10 rounds, test, etc until you see a failure. ***Stretching it is an uncontrolled experiment and the spring should not be considered a reliable nor serviceable item after. Replacements are cheap.
 
NotmyJK said:
Installed it last night and ran a mag of 5.56 and one of .223. Mag of 5.56 had one jam where the bolt was on top of the back of the round and the .223 had three jams of the same thing. PSA 16" upper with S&W lower, KAW H3/5.4 oz buffer and spring, 5.56 was Freedom munitions new in a gen 2 pmag and .223 was Freedom munitions reman in a Magpul Tmag. Put this trigger in an extra lower so I can swap out to different uppers. Have a S&W Voulunteer upper that came with a bolt carrier that is not full auto. Figured out that will not work. Lol Edit: brass was ejected to the 4 o'clock position.
Click to expand...
Your bolt may be moving too fast and overriding the rounds before being presented is my guess. Try a standard spring if you’re using something heavier.

Or your buffer is a little heavy and not getting fully rearward when cycling. If the standard spring doesn’t work, try an H2 buffer with your current spring.

That’s what I would do anyway.
 
Don. said:
Your bolt may be moving too fast and overriding the rounds before being presented is my guess. Try a standard spring if you’re using something heavier.

Or your buffer is a little heavy and not getting fully rearward when cycling. If the standard spring doesn’t work, try an H2 buffer with your current spring.

That’s what I would do anyway.
Click to expand...
Will pick up a H2 buffer tonight
 
Don. said:
Your bolt may be moving too fast and overriding the rounds before being presented is my guess. Try a standard spring if you’re using something heavier.

Or your buffer is a little heavy and not getting fully rearward when cycling. If the standard spring doesn’t work, try an H2 buffer with your current spring.

That’s what I would do anyway.
Click to expand...
I agree with this. All of my FRT experiences have seem to prefer a bit more gas than less for reliability. They definitely need tuning.

Short stroking would definitely present with a dribble ejection or 5-5:30 area.

I run H1 or H2 in all of my platforms but it doesnt hurt to have a spare H3 buffers to disassemble for hot-swapping weights around to tune things.
 
Save some cash and tear apart a standard buffer and use those weights to tune the H3 down to the H2 weight. That’s how I cobble my **** together.
 
Toreadorranger said:
My states laws are really fuzzy around FRTs. Binary triggers, bump stocks, cranks ect are directly called out, but FRTs don't squarely fit into this. And I'm not willing to be the Guinea Pig to test the legal theory on this one.
Click to expand...

Every single one of those laws has been discussed in court and doesn't apply to binary triggers. The trigger fires one round per action, doesn't use a crank, and isn't using recoil. The company FRT just went to the Supreme Court over it.

Your State may not like them, but they're as legal as the trigger a stock firearm comes with.
 
New development. Running 16" S&W upper, brand new Microbest full auto BCG, 4.3 oz tungsten powder buffer (gun counter guy said still an H3 but weighs 1.1 oz lighter than the previous one). It will burst two rounds then will have to let off the trigger to reset. At one point I noticed after the 2 round burst, I could watch the bolt close. Took around 2 seconds to close. Do brand new bolts need to break in? I did not attemp semi auto mode.
 
NotmyJK said:
New development. Running 16" S&W upper, brand new Microbest full auto BCG, 4.3 oz tungsten powder buffer (gun counter guy said still an H3 but weighs 1.1 oz lighter than the previous one). It will burst two rounds then will have to let off the trigger to reset. At one point I noticed after the 2 round burst, I could watch the bolt close. Took around 2 seconds to close. Do brand new bolts need to break in? I did not attemp semi auto mode.
Click to expand...
I think too many things are changing at one time for this. Get the firearm functioning with a standard milspec setup...nothing fancy. Ensure reliability before dropping in the FRT. Otherwise you could be chasing your tail on symptoms.

Also... 2 seconds to close? Like... its dragging ass back to battery? What buffer spring are you running now? As for the buffer... does it still have slack inside or is it packed tight? The weight 'slop' inside is intended and can help smooth out the cycle of the action. Not having that 'slop' inside of the buffer changes a LOT on how the action cycles from fire, to full back bolt open, to going home.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh