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Engine Lathe Q’s

OutlawRider said:
Has a few oil spots. All that said, I can’t seem to figure the wiring out. I can’t power up to the switches like a kill switch is tripped somewhere. But I can’t seem to find any that are the culprit. I may just have it wired wrong but still can’t figure it out. May have to have someone come out.
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I had a similar problem with the lathe I just got. There is a switch in the handle that engages the spindle, has to be to the right. My old monarch turns on the motor as soon as I turn on the switch, but this one didn't until I engage the chuck.

The red handle on the carriage. Mine had to be to the right slightly, then when I turned the switch to on I heard a contactor close and it worked as expected.
 
cj7jeep81 said:
I had a similar problem with the lathe I just got. There is a switch in the handle that engages the spindle, has to be to the right. My old monarch turns on the motor as soon as I turn on the switch, but this one didn't until I engage the chuck.

The red handle on the carriage. Mine had to be to the right slightly, then when I turned the switch to on I heard a contactor close and it worked as expected.
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I'd assume his would idle the motor and then engage the spindle when you throw the clutch (red) lever? Perhaps some type of interlock so you can't start the motor with the clutch engaged?
 
bgaidan said:
I'd assume his would idle the motor and then engage the spindle when you throw the clutch (red) lever? Perhaps some type of interlock so you can't start the motor with the clutch engaged?
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Not sure, just checked this video of one for sale, and sounds like its off when the chuck isn't engaged. Mine is a Taiwain import as well (YAM), and they both seem to be similar in design (so probably both cloned off mori seiki).

I don't want to admit how far I was into troubleshooting before I realized it was a switch in the handle :) Luckily i noticed when I moved it up/down the rod it was attached to did not rotate. Then realized it had to be pusehd to the right, then it engaged and rotated the rod, so the safetey switch must be built into that.

 
I’m still working with it, but my 110v stuff won’t come on like the DRO either. No lights, nothing. The only light I can get on is the lubricant pump if I manually engage the contractor and it will stay running until I flip the switch off. I will get some pics. I went through the manual for startup operation. I may try and jump all the safety switches for now if I can just to make sure they aren’t a culprit.
 
Definitely sounds like some kind of safety or interlock.

Is the DRO wired in to the main box? Those are usually separate and just plugged in to a 110 outlet to keep them away from the scary 3 phase stuff.
 
DRO is wired into it. Pretty simply wired. The machine is actually well wired with easy to see routing which is better than I can say for some and well labeled.

I just don’t have full comprehension of everything going on in a 3 phase machine. I get the premise, I don’t understand how it all works.

I am going to try and get some pics to post up.
 
Do you have true 3 phase, rotary converter, or a static converter?
 
A few quick photos. Got to work on some other stuff first, but I can take more of anything is needed. 3 fuses on the left are absolutely good. Not sure about the right.
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very simple relay logic there
just trace shit out until you find where the juice stops
I like using a light bulb socket with stripped ends as a test light
use something like a full size 25w bulb so it'll tolerate the 220v

looks like it's running the control side of everything off that 110v transformer
bodge job would be to just run a separate 110v cord if it is dead
 
Check the little fuses one of them have to be popped. T1 and s1 run the transformer. Your dro is hook directly to the coil. If you have no power there the coil is not working. Coil should be hot all the time.

Those goofy things up top I believe are fuse holders also.
 
I had the DRO working and you could hear a buzzing. All I did was move a fuse but all the fuses check out as good anyway. I believe I have the wiring correct as the transformer should not have a wild leg going to it. In this case it doesn’t making R my wild leg.

Since this point. I started manually engaging the contacts and the transformer has quit working again. (No longer buzzes). I have power to the transformer, nothing on the other side (should be 110).

Prior to all of this quitting, when I manually engaged the contacts, the pump would work and the motor did start to turn (I let go pretty quickly). Now the lubricant pump won’t work (but the is power across the contact when I push it in manually) but just like before, the motor contacts just buzz.
 
does the motor turn?
pretty common for oily dust gunk to lock the rotor when they sit
 
It is a fuse issue. I am getting power across them but they are still blowing or something. That said, got it working but every time I go to start the motor, it blows a fuse on the T terminal.

As soon as I put it in gear, boom, done.
 
are all the contacts releasing on the contactors?
if one is stuck it'll dead short because only one set of contacts is supposed to be engaged at a time
motor reversing and all that
 
Figured the fuse part out. Someone had put 2 amp fuses in. All of them had the amp rating rubbed off taking them in and out, but I found a stamping I could read in them.

How safe would it be to jumó them short term to see if it all works?
 
the R S and T ones kinda clearly say 30 in the picture at least
the single one on the right getting fed by #8 (from the 110v control transformer) looks to be a 2 amp
are we talking about the same fuses and or pictures?
 
[486] said:
the R S and T ones kinda clearly say 30 in the picture at least
the single one on the right getting fed by #8 (from the 110v control transformer) looks to be a 2 amp
are we talking about the same fuses and or pictures?
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So against better judgement, I ran it jumping them. It runs just fine. Everything seems to work.

One of the 30amp fuses was blown. Just need to order some in.

So we soon will be good to destroy some stuff. So it was a fuse issue all along I suppose.
 
OutlawRider said:
So against better judgement, I ran it jumping them. It runs just fine. Everything seems to work.

One of the 30amp fuses was blown. Just need to order some in.

So we soon will be good to destroy some stuff. So it was a fuse issue all along I suppose.
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you've got a breaker at the other end of the wire, just make sure its a 30 and run it :flipoff2:
I wanna say 7/16" or 11mm 1/4 dr sockets work great for replacing those fuses
 
[486] said:
you've got a breaker at the other end of the wire, just make sure its a 30 and run it :flipoff2:
I wanna say 7/16" or 11mm 1/4 dr sockets work great for replacing those fuses
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I have it hooked to just a 15amp on the wall (unwired another machine to make sure this even worked).
 
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