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Electric vacuum pump donor vehicle and setup

dntsdad

dntsdad

Central California
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
47
Messages
1,269
Loc
Central California
Van is a 2003 Ford E350, 5.4 gas

I have the Ford HVAC issue that somehow their engineers could not figure out how to make the AC keep blowing from the vents when using more than 10% of the fucking throttle and it defaults to the defrost mode. It is fucking annoying and a testament to how shitty Ford is that this even happened let alone recalled.

My old Ford based Class A did the same thing.

I just wrapped up just about 3000 miles of driving all over Northern California and Oregon and it was stupid how much the AC would cut out to the defrost.

I have tried a new vacuum source location and adding a reservoir from some Ford forum posts and YouTube videos. Same thing.

Next thought is to add an electric vacuum pump and just hook the supply vacuum line for the HVAC control directly to the electric vacuum pump.

This should work correct?

Couple of questions that I am having are:

Would I need some sort of check valve on the line?

Would I need a reservoir or would a line direct from the pump to the control unit be okay?

Never had a vehicle with an electric pump. Does the pump run all the time when powered or on demand like an airless paint sprayer?

I know that any Ford, Chevy, Dodge diesel would be a good donor, but what other "common" vehicles could I source a pump from at a Pick N Pull with a high likelihood of being in the yard? Like what would be the Honda Accord commonality that would have a pump? My local yard doesn't look they have a lot of diesel trucks/vans from the online inventory. A new Motorcraft one is about 175 and I really don't want to spend that nor get some Amazon China one for 40
 
If you have a reservoir with a check valve added in it should work fine. Most likely you have a vacuum leak in one of the HVAC dashpots so it's bleeding off faster than normal. Maybe fix what's broken instead of modding to compensate?
 
This is thing should not "USE" vaccum. Once a system is empty it doesn't take any signal to hold if it doesn't leak.
 
Ranchtruck said:
If you have a reservoir with a check valve added in it should work fine. Most likely you have a vacuum leak in one of the HVAC dashpots so it's bleeding off faster than normal. Maybe fix what's broken instead of modding to compensate?
Click to expand...
I don't think so as far as having a leak. I checked for leaks when I first got it, and I did on my Class A as well. Maybe I missed it though but I don't think so.

This is a very common problem on Ford based RVs, vans, etc. where the vacuum controls are used. Tons of posts all over the net about it. I tried one of the fixes on YouTube that seems to have a high rate of success but it didn't for me.
 
There's a leak for sure. You just have to find where it's hissing from, which can be hard with the noise of the engine running. You could attach a long hose to your manifold source line and run it over to another running car so you have vacuum applied with the engine off.
 
Where did you plumb in your new reservoir & check valve? Did you treat the check valve before installing it? A failed check valve is a big vacuum leak back into the manifold when you get on the throttle.
 
M92PV4U said:
No, fuck that:flipoff2:.
Click to expand...
I mean clearly ford built a piece of shit from the factory so there's no way the vents ever worked normally. I keep hearing grinding noises when I step on the brakes and it doesn't stop for shit, I've heard every ford gets like this because they're trash. Could you recommend a land anchor system I could attach to help me slow down?
 
Ranchtruck said:
I mean clearly ford built a piece of shit from the factory so there's no way the vents ever worked normally. I keep hearing grinding noises when I step on the brakes and it doesn't stop for shit, I've heard every ford gets like this because they're trash. Could you recommend a land anchor system I could attach to help me slow down?
Click to expand...
Yes. Pull the engine and attach it to a chain and to the bumper. Keep the engine in the back of the van, when you want to stop, kick it out.:flipoff2:

My s10 does the same shit as his van:homer:. I haven't had time to look into it.
 
Ranchtruck said:
I mean clearly ford built a piece of shit from the factory so there's no way the vents ever worked normally. I keep hearing grinding noises when I step on the brakes and it doesn't stop for shit, I've heard every ford gets like this because they're trash. Could you recommend a land anchor system I could attach to help me slow down?
Click to expand...
Do you realize that Ford put out a TSB.............in 2002!!!

Now search 'ford ac to defrost' in Google and see the page and pages of results from people, many post 2002, that have this issue. Vans, trucks, motorhomes, etc. all on that platform have the same issue.

On top of that, the parts listed in the TSB aren't even available through Ford. I tried to get them 7 years ago when I first got my Class A.

Sorry, you Ford feelings got hurted but I have had two Fords and they both had this issue. Maybe they BOTH had vacuum leaks that I couldn't find? Maybe, but unlikely that I could be that dumb........twice. Once, probably. Twice. Nah.

Shit product and should have been fixed via a recall. At the least, they should have changed the design in following years. It doesn't appear that they did.

I still have the TSB on my docs from 7 years ago. This is referencing the F53 chassis but it's the same exact system and controls.
 

Attachments

  • TSB 02-07-02 AC COMING OUT DEFROST.pdf
    107.6 KB · Views: 1
crispins said:
All Saab 900 and 9-3's that were turbo had one

Here is one for $40 shipped

www.ebay.com

Saab c900 Cruise Control Vacuum Pump | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Saab c900 Cruise Control Vacuum Pump at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
I wish I could see the electrical connector. I obviously don't have the plug for that and Id like to see how hard would be to put wires on there. What type, size, etc of terminals it takes. I may buy it and hope for the best.
 
M92PV4U said:

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Click to expand...

2000 FORD F-350 SUPER DUTY 7.3L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Vacuum Pump Connector | RockAuto

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dntsdad said:
Do you realize that Ford put out a TSB.............in 2002!!!

Now search 'ford ac to defrost' in Google and see the page and pages of results from people, many post 2002, that have this issue. Vans, trucks, motorhomes, etc. all on that platform have the same issue.

On top of that, the parts listed in the TSB aren't even available through Ford. I tried to get them 7 years ago when I first got my Class A.

Sorry, you Ford feelings got hurted but I have had two Fords and they both had this issue. Maybe they BOTH had vacuum leaks that I couldn't find? Maybe, but unlikely that I could be that dumb........twice. Once, probably. Twice. Nah.

Shit product and should have been fixed via a recall. At the least, they should have changed the design in following years. It doesn't appear that they did.

I still have the TSB on my docs from 7 years ago. This is referencing the F53 chassis but it's the same exact system and controls.
Click to expand...
The canister is not available but that doesn't seem to matter it's a bigger canister...
The harness is available and cheap.
So... You think the answer is to move more air through the sealed system?
Like a I need a bigger shop air compressor because they plumbed my air system with foam pipe and I have so much air leaking I only get 20 psi at the end of the hose?

You have a 250+ HP air compressor under the hood... How much air do you need to move???
1721947430683.png
 
dntsdad said:
I wish I could see the electrical connector. I obviously don't have the plug for that and Id like to see how hard would be to put wires on there. What type, size, etc of terminals it takes. I may buy it and hope for the best.
Click to expand...
I know what it is.

from left to right, there are 3 terminals.

Put positive to the first 2 and neg to the last one.

I used to be way into Saabs back in the day

edit *** quick search

1721948749279.png
 
dntsdad said:
I wish I could see the electrical connector. I obviously don't have the plug for that and Id like to see how hard would be to put wires on there. What type, size, etc of terminals it takes. I may buy it and hope for the best.
Click to expand...
Female bullet connector works fine, I think I widened it out a touch to fit over it but it was no issue
 
CarterKraft said:
The canister is not available but that doesn't seem to matter it's a bigger canister...
The harness is available and cheap.
So... You think the answer is to move more air through the sealed system?
Like a I need a bigger shop air compressor because they plumbed my air system with foam pipe and I have so much air leaking I only get 20 psi at the end of the hose?

You have a 250+ HP air compressor under the hood... How much air do you need to move???
1721947430683.png
Click to expand...
So why put out a TSB with alternative parts if everyone just had leaks?
 
dntsdad said:
Do you realize that Ford put out a TSB.............in 2002!!!

Now search 'ford ac to defrost' in Google and see the page and pages of results from people, many post 2002, that have this issue. Vans, trucks, motorhomes, etc. all on that platform have the same issue.
Sorry, you Ford feelings got hurted but I have had two Fords and they both had this issue. Maybe they BOTH had vacuum leaks that I couldn't find? Maybe, but unlikely that I could be that dumb........twice. Once, probably. Twice. Nah.

Shit product and should have been fixed via a recall. At the least, they should have changed the design in following years. It doesn't appear that they did.
Click to expand...
It's a sealed fucking system until you ask something to change mode, then it displaces a whole cubic inch of volume to move an actuator. Why would it need continuous flow?

So you either have a leak, or a bad check valve. Since you never explained where you plumbed in your replacement tank & check valve it's likely you didn't fix what was broken to start with and its still inline and leaking. Basic diagnostic logic.

When I do a search the first thing I found was a guy cutting a flap into the inner wheel well so he could access the failed check valve & rubber connector on the reservoir without pulling the evaporator box.

Or you could run a hose direct from the reservoir you put in to the controls so it replicates the factory setup just in a more accessible location. But if you don't have a check valve it still won't work.
 
dntsdad said:
So why put out a TSB with alternative parts if everyone just had leaks?
Click to expand...
The alternative parts adressed a different problem. More signal to larger reservoir.
That would be pretty easy for you to accomplish if you desired.

I had this same issue on my 02 excursion but guess what it was a diesel, with a vaccum pump and guess what was wrong?
the 4x4 hub vacuum lines rotted off...
 
ANGRYBLACK said:

JEGS 62994: Electric Vacuum Pump for Suppling Vacuum to a Power Brake Booster - JEGS

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www.jegs.com www.jegs.com

Wire it, adjust it to 20" and connect the hose
Click to expand...
why buy a chinese knockoff hella pump when you can grab a real deal one at the junkyard for $10 from most every new shitbox
the ones on 3.6 GM ditzmobiles are right in front of the hood latch, ten seconds to grab it

the cycling switch is easy enough to find, too
 
[486] said:
why buy a chinese knockoff hella pump when you can grab a real deal one at the junkyard for $10 from most every new shitbox
the ones on 3.6 GM ditzmobiles are right in front of the hood latch, ten seconds to grab it

the cycling switch is easy enough to find, too
Click to expand...
Brother, there aren't that may u pull its around. And yes that is an option too!
 
When I went to fix this originally when I first got the van, I got the vacuum line under the hood from the engine and replaced it with silicone line that i already had, ran it into the cab and bypassed the factory check valve because it's impossible to get to. I put a new Motorcraft check valve on along with a new resevoir and ran new lines up to the controller and spliced the lines.

I checked for leaks afterwards and never found any.

Everything works fine at idle of course but like I said, anything over about 20% throttle and it goes to defrost.

You guys have me thinking this over again that there may/probably be a leak and I am possibly an idiot that didn't find it last time. I'll check it over again before going with the electric pump. Just frustrated cause I just got done on an almost 3000 mile trip and it was on defrost probably 80% of the time.

Thanks for the help and advice.
 
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