Eldo caliper questions- not using the ebrake function

[Outlaw yota]

I have fj 80 master with 88 v6 front calipers and a prop valve.I have mine about a turn and a half in.and they work great.had that setup on a truck for 15 years and now on a 86 4 runner.

I'm hoping I haven't wasted a bunch of money and time.

Did the metric calipers fit the rotors? I've read the standard D60/14B disk conversion rotors won't work with the metric calipers.

I'm hoping I haven't wasted a bunch of money and time.

Did the metric calipers fit the rotors? I've read the standard D60/14B disk conversion rotors won't work with the metric calipers.

Yes I have a Toyota, GM 1500 HD front rotor with the center cut out to fit the axle flange.my calipers are the eldo from ruff stuff too.I just went back to what worked for me for many years.

 

[Outlaw yota]

How are your brakes overall, can you lock the wheels?

The fronts are my limiting factor, I have them balanced as best as possible The rears are coasting, I need a ton more front brake.

36 in tire on steel wheels,and I can lock up all 4 at 50 mph on the street.I run the prop valve till the back brakes lock up the rears first then back them off.but my first gen 4 runner is light weight.3700 lbs

 

[Stingray]

36 in tire on steel wheels,and I can lock up all 4 at 50 mph on the street.I run the prop valve till the back brakes lock up the rears first then back them off.but my first gen 4 runner is light weight.3700 lbs

I'm on a 37 beadlock, running 3rd gen vented 4runner front brakes, master, booster. the rears are closed as much as the Wilwood proportioning valve will allow, so basically I'm using 25% of the rears, I cut all the ABS braking out of the whole thing, It just needs a ton more front brake.

Without the valve 70 miles an hr you could use moderate pressure and the rears would go full lock.

 

[Gunnibronco]

I'm moving forward with the Eldo calipers. From what I've read and been told the p-brake will need an initial adjustment to get a good pedal (like a rear drum brake). They are "automatically" adjusted for pad wear by setting the p-brake, this also prevented them from rusting up and seizing. Since I won't have that, I'll have to do this by hand by manually activating the p-brake at each caliper. Because the pad wear is minimal (it's not a daily driver) and my climate is very dry (northern Nevada), this won't be a big deal, I'm hoping.

Yes I have a Toyota, GM 1500 HD front rotor with the center cut out to fit the axle flange.my calipers are the eldo from ruff stuff too.I just went back to what worked for me for many years.

The GM1500 rotor is what I'm running on a 14B hub with the 76-78 Eldo caliper. The later Eldo calipers and the metric GM front calipers have a smaller pin spread and don't fit the thickness of the GM1500 rotor. I would have considered building a new caliper hanger and use the front metric calipers, but I can't find a rotor that will fit the 14B hub and the metric caliper. My goal is to use off the shelf parts with no machine work so I can find parts easily. My original plan was to do a bunch of machine work to run my 5x5.5" rims. My machinist friend talked me out of it and I bought 8x6.5" rims and can use easy to find parts with no modification.

I'm on a 37 beadlock, running 3rd gen vented 4runner front brakes, master, booster. the rears are closed as much as the Wilwood proportioning valve will allow, so basically I'm using 25% of the rears, I cut all the ABS braking out of the whole thing, It just needs a ton more front brake.

Without the valve 70 miles an hr you could use moderate pressure and the rears would go full lock.

Without a prop valve my rears locked up so prematurely that I almost rolled my truck on a shake down run. I went down a fairly steep dirt trail and the rear brakes locked up and the rear end bounced so bad it turned me 90* across the trail. I was pretty sure I was going to roll, but somehow didn't. The prop valve stopped that but just isn't enough to stop the rears from locking before the fronts in a panic situation. Since I do some driving to trails, I want to fine tune this out. Otherwise my breaks are great.

 

[FordFascist]

I'm moving forward with the Eldo calipers. From what I've read and been told the p-brake will need an initial adjustment to get a good pedal (like a rear drum brake). They are "automatically" adjusted for pad wear by setting the p-brake, this also prevented them from rusting up and seizing. Since I won't have that, I'll have to do this by hand by manually activating the p-brake at each caliper. Because the pad wear is minimal (it's not a daily driver) and my climate is very dry (northern Nevada), this won't be a big deal, I'm hoping.


The GM1500 rotor is what I'm running on a 14B hub with the 76-78 Eldo caliper. The later Eldo calipers and the metric GM front calipers have a smaller pin spread and don't fit the thickness of the GM1500 rotor. I would have considered building a new caliper hanger and use the front metric calipers, but I can't find a rotor that will fit the 14B hub and the metric caliper. My goal is to use off the shelf parts with no machine work so I can find parts easily. My original plan was to do a bunch of machine work to run my 5x5.5" rims. My machinist friend talked me out of it and I bought 8x6.5" rims and can use easy to find parts with no modification.

Without a prop valve my rears locked up so prematurely that I almost rolled my truck on a shake down run. I went down a fairly steep dirt trail and the rear brakes locked up and the rear end bounced so bad it turned me 90* across the trail. I was pretty sure I was going to roll, but somehow didn't. The prop valve stopped that but just isn't enough to stop the rears from locking before the fronts in a panic situation. Since I do some driving to trails, I want to fine tune this out. Otherwise my breaks are great.

I'm late to the game here, but I've never had ANY Eldorado caliper not be a complete piece of shit. They rarely adjust themselves and even when adjusted - are lackluster in holding power.

At some point I will get off my ass and put late-model electric e-brake calipers in CAD and figure this out.

 

[Gunnibronco]

I'm late to the game here, but I've never had ANY Eldorado caliper not be a complete piece of shit. They rarely adjust themselves and even when adjusted - are lackluster in holding power.

At some point I will get off my ass and put late-model electric e-brake calipers in CAD and figure this out.

When you figure out how to put an electric e-brake caliper on let me know. I'm sure I'm not the only one who will jump on that option.

I'm glad I have a line lock and won't even be trying to use the Eldo e-brake. As long as it stops a little less good than the JD6 caliper it will work as I need.