What's new

Eldo caliper questions- not using the ebrake function

Gunnibronco

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2022
Member Number
5077
Messages
16
I'm replacing my rear JD/JB6 calipers (3") with 76-78 Eldo calipers(2.5"). I won't be using the e-brake function. I just need a smaller piston caliper to fix brake bias issues.
A few questions:
Will I need to adjust anything or will they act like a normal caliper piston if I don't use the e-brake? The instructions that came with the calipers state the e-brake must be properly adjusted, and regularly readjusted to get a good pedal feel.
I'm planning to use the same pads I have in the JD/JB6 calipers. I see where the Eldo calipers have a notch and there are specific pads for these calipers that key into the notch. Will using the JD/JB7 pads work ok since I'm not using the e-brake function?
Thanks
 
It's been years since I dinked around with them, but I believe those calipers ratchet the piston out as a part of the parking brake function.

Why not use the front calipers that match those? I sort of remember a 1/2T front caliper that's the same as those, sans parking brake.
 
It's been years since I dinked around with them, but I believe those calipers ratchet the piston out as a part of the parking brake function.

Why not use the front calipers that match those? I sort of remember a 1/2T front caliper that's the same as those, sans parking brake.

The JB6 caliper I have installed is the similar equivalent and the 3" piston is just too much in relation to my front brakes.
Look for a jb5 and see if the diameter is 2.5"
I've looked for JB5 and never run across anything regarding specs or which vehicles to cross reference. If someone can chime in I'm interested. I've found "metric" calipers, but they won't bolt into the brackets I've already welded onto my axle, and they won't fit the rotors I have (thickness).

I've already purchased the Eldo calipers so at this point I will just run them. I'm just curious how they will set up and if my pads will work with out the e-brake.

Edit- JB5 calipers seem to have the same size piston as JB6 (2.935"), I'm not sure if there is a difference in the caliper:

JB5(6400lbs):
1.574" Bore MC
Low Drag Calipers 2.935" Piston
Front Disc- 11.86x1.29
Rear Drum- 10x2.25
Vacuum- Double Diaphram
1 3/16" wheel cylinder

JB6(7200lbs):
1.574" Bore MC
Low Drag Calipers 2.935" Piston
Front Disc- 12.50x1.28
Rear Drum- 11.15x 2.75
Vacuum- Double Diaphram(same as JB7)
1" rear wheel cylinder. 11' drum has self activating shoes, therefore does not require as much pressure as the 10"

JB7(8400lbs)Single rear wheel:
1.25" Bore MC(used in JB5 and JB6 Hydro Units)
Conventional Calipers 3.15" Piston
Front Disc- 12.50x1.54
Rear Drum- 13.00x2.50
Vacuum- Double Diaphram(same as JB6)
1 1/16 rear wheel cylinder

JB8(10000lbs)
1.312" Bore MC
Conventional Calipers 3.4" piston
Front Disc- 12.50x1.54
Read Drum- 13.00x3.50
Hydraulic Hydro Boost
1 3/16 rear wheel cylinder
 
I tried using the eldo calipers and could not get them to work with out the e brake hooked up.I ended up going back to the gm small front caliper off a 78 to 88 g body car
That's not what I want to hear. Thanks though.

Edit- If your G-body calipers fit the same bracket, we aren't talking about the same Eldo calipers. You are talking about the smaller 2" Eldo calipers after 1978. I'm talking about the bigger 76-78 Eldo calipers. Not sure if that changes how they work but anyways.
 
No I changed brackets too.had to cut the eldo ones off,and weld new gm metric ones on,I changed master cyl.because the pedal would go soft after a day,and it was the calipers.I have all the caddy stuff in a box new and a good old master cyl and wasted a good amount of money.lol I have ran the GM stuff on a few builds and my brothers 78 Monte drag car too
 
No I changed brackets too.had to cut the eldo ones off,and weld new gm metric ones on,I changed master cyl.because the pedal would go soft after a day,and it was the calipers.I have all the caddy stuff in a box new and a good old master cyl and wasted a good amount of money.lol I have ran the GM stuff on a few builds and my brothers 78 Monte drag car too
I'm hoping I haven't wasted a bunch of money and time.

Did the metric calipers fit the rotors? I've read the standard D60/14B disk conversion rotors won't work with the metric calipers.
 
I tried using the eldo calipers and could not get them to work with out the e brake hooked up.I ended up going back to the gm small front caliper off a 78 to 88 g body car
I'm running the 78-88 GM Caliper on the rear of my 4runner and ended up needing a proportioning valve cranked almost all the way closed, even a hint of touching the brake pedal would bring the rears to a full lock up with 37's.

I'm running a 1" master and 3rd gen Toyota vented rotors on the front, I wish I had more front brake so I could turn up the rears.

The 78-88 calipers seem to be more than enough brake.
 
I'm running the 78-88 GM Caliper on the rear of my 4runner and ended up needing a proportioning valve cranked almost all the way closed, even a hint of touching the brake pedal would bring the rears to a full lock up with 37's.

I'm running a 1" master and 3rd gen Toyota vented rotors on the front, I wish I had more front brake so I could turn up the rears.

The 78-88 calipers seem to be more than enough brake.
Those are 2.5", the same as the Eldo rear I have ready to install. They don't fit the caliper hangers I already have. I've also read they won't fit the thickness of the rotors I have. The 76-78 Eldo caliper is 2.5" and fits the caliper hangers and rotors and pads I already have installed.

I'm running 96 F350 front brakes and the 3" rear brakes (with prop valve turned all the way down) lock up on hard braking before the fronts, so I need a smaller caliper.
 
What's the axle? I guess if you have to monkey fuck a football, you could use the Eldo calipers and crank the pistons out halfway. Back in the day they worked half assed and usually seized there anyway, causing the park brake to not work as the pads wear.


I found the calipers I used back in the day to replace them, with a normal non-ratcheting piston.

JB1/JB3 brakes - 2.5" piston for front, manual brakes on a Chevy half ton and power brakes on some big GM cars.



BUICKELECTRA1978-1989
BUICKESTATE WAGON1978-1983
BUICKLESABRE1978-1990
BUICKRIVIERA1978
BUICKROADMASTER1991-1996
BUICKSKYLARK1978-1979
CADILLACBROUGHAM1987-1992
CADILLACDEVILLE1978-1984
CADILLACFLEETWOOD1978-1996
CADILLACSEVILLE1978-1979
CHEVROLETASTRO1985-2002
CHEVROLETBEL AIR1981
CHEVROLETC10 PICKUP1981-1986
CHEVROLETCAMARO1978-1981
CHEVROLETCAPRICE1978-1996
CHEVROLETIMPALA1978-1996
CHEVROLETNOVA1978-1979
CHEVROLETR10 PICKUP1987
GMCC1500 PICKUP1981-1986
GMCR1500 PICKUP1987
GMCSAFARI1985-2002
OLDSMOBILE981978-1984
OLDSMOBILECUSTOM CRUISER1978-1992
OLDSMOBILEDELTA 881978-1985
OLDSMOBILEOMEGA1978-1979
PONTIACBONNEVILLE1978-1981
PONTIACCATALINA1978-1981
PONTIACFIREBIRD1978-1981
PONTIACLAURENTIAN1978-1981
PONTIACPARISIENNE1978-1986
PONTIACPHOENIX1978-1979
PONTIACSAFARI1987-198

I think.
 
After installing the caliper you put a vise grips on the ebrake lever and ratchet the piston out to set the pad clearance, otherwise the pads will be too far from the rotor.

Periodically you need to pump the ebrake lever to keep the pads adjusted tight up against the rotor.

Back in the day they used to say actuate your E-brake every time you got gas, but that is certainly over kill.
 
After installing the caliper you put a vise grips on the ebrake lever and ratchet the piston out to set the pad clearance, otherwise the pads will be too far from the rotor.

Periodically you need to pump the ebrake lever to keep the pads adjusted tight up against the rotor.

Back in the day they used to say actuate your E-brake every time you got gas, but that is certainly over kill.
Yeah, here in the rust belt, it was use it every time you stopped. They still froze up.
 
Are these factory (or factory replacement Calipers) or after market ones like the ones Ruff stuff sells?
The Factory stuff depends on people using the e brake to keep the piston in adjustment.
I think the Ruff stuff ones fixed that in a redesign, but I can't be sure.
 
Cant you caddie ebrake fools just use a T Case parking brake ?


NP205 W PARKING BRAKE.png.jpeg
 
Last edited:
What's the axle? I guess if you have to monkey fuck a football, you could use the Eldo calipers and crank the pistons out halfway. Back in the day they worked half assed and usually seized there anyway, causing the park brake to not work as the pads wear.


I found the calipers I used back in the day to replace them, with a normal non-ratcheting piston.

JB1/JB3 brakes - 2.5" piston for front, manual brakes on a Chevy half ton and power brakes on some big GM cars.



BUICKELECTRA1978-1989
BUICKESTATE WAGON1978-1983
BUICKLESABRE1978-1990
BUICKRIVIERA1978
BUICKROADMASTER1991-1996
BUICKSKYLARK1978-1979
CADILLACBROUGHAM1987-1992
CADILLACDEVILLE1978-1984
CADILLACFLEETWOOD1978-1996
CADILLACSEVILLE1978-1979
CHEVROLETASTRO1985-2002
CHEVROLETBEL AIR1981
CHEVROLETC10 PICKUP1981-1986
CHEVROLETCAMARO1978-1981
CHEVROLETCAPRICE1978-1996
CHEVROLETIMPALA1978-1996
CHEVROLETNOVA1978-1979
CHEVROLETR10 PICKUP1987
GMCC1500 PICKUP1981-1986
GMCR1500 PICKUP1987
GMCSAFARI1985-2002
OLDSMOBILE981978-1984
OLDSMOBILECUSTOM CRUISER1978-1992
OLDSMOBILEDELTA 881978-1985
OLDSMOBILEOMEGA1978-1979
PONTIACBONNEVILLE1978-1981
PONTIACCATALINA1978-1981
PONTIACFIREBIRD1978-1981
PONTIACLAURENTIAN1978-1981
PONTIACPARISIENNE1978-1986
PONTIACPHOENIX1978-1979
PONTIACSAFARI1987-198

I think.
Those are good choices, but are the "metric" calipers. They don't fit my brackets or rotors, the 76-78 Eldo calipers do.
After installing the caliper you put a vise grips on the ebrake lever and ratchet the piston out to set the pad clearance, otherwise the pads will be too far from the rotor.

Periodically you need to pump the ebrake lever to keep the pads adjusted tight up against the rotor.

Back in the day they used to say actuate your E-brake every time you got gas, but that is certainly over kill.
From what I've read, I can manually set them up right and won't probably have to readjust often because it's not going to be a daily driver and see much pad wear. I can always go back and manually crank the p-brake lever to make that adjustment if needed.
Are these factory (or factory replacement Calipers) or after market ones like the ones Ruff stuff sells?
The Factory stuff depends on people using the e brake to keep the piston in adjustment.
I think the Ruff stuff ones fixed that in a redesign, but I can't be sure.
Aftermarket from Lugnut4x4. I won't see much pad wear so readjustments won't be needed often.
Cant you caddie ebrake fools just use a T Case parking brake ?


NP205 W PARKING BRAKE.png.jpeg
I'm running a line lock and won't use the ebrake portion of the calipers. I just need the smaller 2.5" piston vs the 3" JB6 piston. The Eldo caliper is the only caliper smaller than the JB6 that fits my hangers and rotors.
 
No metric caliper used on a C15 in the 80's. Check with Lugnut...

But as I said above, you can probably adjust them out and run what you bought.
 
No metric caliper used on a C15 in the 80's. Check with Lugnut...

But as I said above, you can probably adjust them out and run what you bought.
Unfortunately that JB1/JB3 caliper is also 3" according to Rockauto (1985 GMC C1500).

Lugnut hasn't been able to help. He didn't even know the piston diameter of the Eldo calipers. He can't believe I have too much bias with the JB6 calipers and wants me to change master cylinders and boosters. That is not going to fix my rear bias. I ordered his Eldo calipers because his pricing is good, but his advice is off target.

From what I'm reading I think you are right. Get it set right at start and I'll probably never/rarely need to readjust them with the low mileage/wear I'll see.
 
You're not looking at the right caliper, JB1 is manual brakes, V6, and as such, needs a smaller piston just like the smaller pistons in manual master cylinders...

but you're also set on running what you have. So just go adjust them out. They will work, if you ratchet them, which was my original point, in my first post here.

I am proud of myself... I found the calipers I used to swap in:

 
You're not looking at the right caliper, JB1 is manual brakes, V6, and as such, needs a smaller piston just like the smaller pistons in manual master cylinders...

but you're also set on running what you have. So just go adjust them out. They will work, if you ratchet them, which was my original point, in my first post here.
I've looked at so many makes/models/years my eyes are bleeding. I've been looking for 2 months and reading every thread I can find on line. I have yet to find a 2.5" caliper that fits the typical D60/14b disk brake conversion other than the Eldo caliper. I'm all ears if someone can actually find one. Every caliper listed on Rock Auto for a 1985 C1500 is a 3" caliper.
 
I've looked at so many makes/models/years my eyes are bleeding. I've been looking for 2 months and reading every thread I can find on line. I have yet to find a 2.5" caliper that fits the typical D60/14b disk brake conversion other than the Eldo caliper. I'm all ears if someone can actually find one. Every caliper listed on Rock Auto for a 1985 C1500 is a 3" caliper.
I never said C1500. They all had power brakes.

I said C10, base, with manual brakes. I even bolded it above.

Also, the Wilwood D52 caliper mimics the front brakes, and has 2" to 4" piston combos available.
 
Wilwood stuff hasn't been on my radar at this point.

One of your posts says C15 so I misunderstood and looked at C1500s. Still not finding 2.5" calipers under C10s.
 
Sorry, was a typo.

Where are you seeing piston sizes on Rock Auto?

I pulled up the part number: Chevy C10, V6, manual brakes: CARDONE 184021

JB1/JB3 the lightest duty brakes.
 
Thanks, forgot about that.

I am not sure I can buy that all these calipers have the same size pistons.

As said, you want to use what you have and have a way to do that.
 
D52 Rear Caliper Kit

Wilwood's D52 Rear Caliper Kit offers a matching rear replacement option for our front D52 calipers. It is a direct bolt-on 2-piston replacement for the factory original single piston calipers used on many custom application rears. With the added benefit of smaller rear piston sizing (2.46 sq-inches of area) not normally available in OEM calipers, for correct front and rear bias. Forged billet aluminum bodies, stainless steel pistons, and competition style high-temperature seals put an end to the rust, bore pitting, and seal failures that plague the OE caliper design. D52 calipers provide low-maintenance performance and a huge weight savings with high temperature reliability for the street and track. D52 calipers mount in the stock location over stock rotors, use the original style OE D52 brake pads and an OE 7/16-20 banjo bolt brake line mounting. Calipers can be used with most wheels that clear the OE calipers. Kits contain Wilwood’s hardened slide pins and BP-10 high friction pads. Matching rear calipers are also available for custom installations.
 
D52 Rear Caliper Kit

Wilwood's D52 Rear Caliper Kit offers a matching rear replacement option for our front D52 calipers. It is a direct bolt-on 2-piston replacement for the factory original single piston calipers used on many custom application rears. With the added benefit of smaller rear piston sizing (2.46 sq-inches of area) not normally available in OEM calipers, for correct front and rear bias. Forged billet aluminum bodies, stainless steel pistons, and competition style high-temperature seals put an end to the rust, bore pitting, and seal failures that plague the OE caliper design. D52 calipers provide low-maintenance performance and a huge weight savings with high temperature reliability for the street and track. D52 calipers mount in the stock location over stock rotors, use the original style OE D52 brake pads and an OE 7/16-20 banjo bolt brake line mounting. Calipers can be used with most wheels that clear the OE calipers. Kits contain Wilwood’s hardened slide pins and BP-10 high friction pads. Matching rear calipers are also available for custom installations.
I'm sure they are a good option. At $450/set they are just out of my price range for a rear brake caliper. If I can't find OEM stuff to work I'll go down that road. I have a friend running similar on a 1000hp bouncer, I'm not in that tax bracket.
 
IIRC, the early-mid 80's S10 front caliper was dimensionally the same as eldorado but actually worked reliably.
I've used the eldorado calipers with the e-brake not hooked up, just a spring to keep them open, and they worked that way for a while.
 
I'm running the 78-88 GM Caliper on the rear of my 4runner and ended up needing a proportioning valve cranked almost all the way closed, even a hint of touching the brake pedal would bring the rears to a full lock up with 37's.

I'm running a 1" master and 3rd gen Toyota vented rotors on the front, I wish I had more front brake so I could turn up the rears.

The 78-88 calipers seem to be more than enough brake.
I have fj 80 master with 88 v6 front calipers and a prop valve.I have mine about a turn and a half in.and they work great.had that setup on a truck for 15 years and now on a 86 4 runner.
 
I have fj 80 master with 88 v6 front calipers and a prop valve.I have mine about a turn and a half in.and they work great.had that setup on a truck for 15 years and now on a 86 4 runner.
How are your brakes overall, can you lock the wheels?

The fronts are my limiting factor, I have them balanced as best as possible The rears are coasting, I need a ton more front brake.
 
Top Back Refresh