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Elderado caliper swap Pads

ANGELO

ANGELO

Red Numb Skull
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
453
Messages
687
Loc
BRADENTON FL
I converted my 92 f250s rear drums to disks back in july. I used lugnuts 4x4s swap kit that uses 77 elderado calipers. I even got their upgrade ceramic pads. A impressive 10,000 miles later my pads are almost gone and when i called them they said yeah thats probably normal wear, and that the next shipments of china pads they get will be thicker.
Im not really feeling like doing my brakes every other oil change so think Ill go for better quality pads.
I have wagner thermoquiet ceramic pads in the front and ive been real happy with them, but im having a hard time finding ones for this. These calipers need D122 pads with the little nub on top to hold the caliper for the parking brake.
So anyone running these calipers have part numbers for pads that are holding up for you?
 
ANGELO said:
I converted my 92 f250s rear drums to disks back in july. I used lugnuts 4x4s swap kit that uses 77 elderado calipers. I even got their upgrade ceramic pads. A impressive 10,000 miles later my pads are almost gone and when i called them they said yeah thats probably normal wear, and that the next shipments of china pads they get will be thicker.
Im not really feeling like doing my brakes every other oil change so think Ill go for better quality pads.
I have wagner thermoquiet ceramic pads in the front and ive been real happy with them, but im having a hard time finding ones for this. These calipers need D122 pads with the little nub on top to hold the caliper for the parking brake.
So anyone running these calipers have part numbers for pads that are holding up for you?
Click to expand...

Is it a semi float or full float axle?
 
Welp, that shits on my knowledge. They do disappear fast when used on a semi float axle due to axle shaft deflection (that’s a common Toyota rear axle mod).
 
Do you have an adjustable proportioning valve? Any chance your rear brakes are doing too much of the work and burning through the (I ASSume) smaller pads?
 
AK_F250 said:
Do you have an adjustable proportioning valve? Any chance your rear brakes are doing too much of the work and burning through the (I ASSume) smaller pads?
Click to expand...

No. Other then hydro boost everything is factory. They claim no proportion valve is needed. They feel fine, my drums would always lock up these ones never have.
 
grapehead said:
Could the pads be dragging? Maybe the park brake is adjusted too aggressive.
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Possibly, but with the tires off the ground I can spin them pretty freely. I can also wiggle all 4 pads. If it was to tight I don't think I'd be able to wiggle the pads
 
I would tend to agree something is not quite right. My first set ran around 40k miles. They were still not completely worn out. I swapped them because I was there doing other work and I was hoping to find something that grabs better.

Maybe check and see if they are retracting properly? That the e-brake cables are not hanging up? Is the exhaust close to the brake line heating the fluid and applying the brakes slightly?

Is your pin the right length on the hydroboost? My first attempt it would leave the brakes slightly applied and of course as they get hot they just drag worse.
 
Tiha said:
I would tend to agree something is not quite right. My first set ran around 40k miles. They were still not completely worn out. I swapped them because I was there doing other work and I was hoping to find something that grabs better.

Maybe check and see if they are retracting properly? That the e-brake cables are not hanging up? Is the exhaust close to the brake line heating the fluid and applying the brakes slightly?

Is your pin the right length on the hydroboost? My first attempt it would leave the brakes slightly applied and of course as they get hot they just drag worse.
Click to expand...

The guy at lugnut said the next set of pads he orderes will be thicker... Kinda sounds like I got junk pads. Do you remember what you had?

They really don't feel like they drag, my drums would adjust way to tight on their own so I would back them as far off as I could. Week later you could smell them.
they calipers feel closer to the drums backed all the way off.

Which pin? When I did the hydro boost I swapped the petal also.
 
ANGELO said:
The guy at lugnut said the next set of pads he orderes will be thicker... Kinda sounds like I got junk pads. Do you remember what you had?

They really don't feel like they drag, my drums would adjust way to tight on their own so I would back them as far off as I could. Week later you could smell them.
they calipers feel closer to the drums backed all the way off.

Which pin? When I did the hydro boost I swapped the petal also.
Click to expand...

The pin between the hydroboost and master cylinder. Did you get a hydroboost with one? Or did you make one?

Oreilly auto parts D122 organic brake pad set.

I think I swapped the first set because one pad was worn down a lot more than the other. The caliper was hitting the mounting bracket and not floating correctly.
Looks like that was 2004, so you are really joggin my memory now

and I agree, it sounds like he is used to hearing people complain about brake pads.
 
I haven't had my Sterling discs that long but somewhat related question. I have the Ruffstuff kit with E350 rotors and Chevy front calipers on my 10.25, there's a good chunk of pad that hangs past the edge of the rotor I can see becoming a problem once the pads wear down. No matter how I tweaked them I couldn't get it to keep full pad contact. Is that just part of the deal?
 
Hyde said:
I haven't had my Sterling discs that long but somewhat related question. I have the Ruffstuff kit with E350 rotors and Chevy front calipers on my 10.25, there's a good chunk of pad that hangs past the edge of the rotor I can see becoming a problem once the pads wear down. No matter how I tweaked them I couldn't get it to keep full pad contact. Is that just part of the deal?
Click to expand...

The bracket could be too "long"

is there room on the inside of the pad to move it in farther?

Really it won't hurt anything, might make some funny noises but eventually that extra will just break off.

If there is room to move the pads so they ride in farther on the rotor without hitting or rubbing the center, then you would have to cut the bracket off the axle and grind on it a little to bring the pads in farther on the rotor.

It is not a perfect system. I suppose most people don't have any trouble with the kit, but it is a custom kit and requires some fitting.
 
My GM calipers on the rear of my semi float ford 9in had probably 30K miles and still were almost new. Rear brakes do like 20% of the stopping so something isn't right with the proportioning or something
 
Hyde said:
I haven't had my Sterling discs that long but somewhat related question. I have the Ruffstuff kit with E350 rotors and Chevy front calipers on my 10.25, there's a good chunk of pad that hangs past the edge of the rotor I can see becoming a problem once the pads wear down. No matter how I tweaked them I couldn't get it to keep full pad contact. Is that just part of the deal?
Click to expand...

Kinda like this?

So I think it was a mix of cheap pads and I missed grease in one slide point
PXL_20210305_175425239.jpg
 
welndmn most likely hit the nail on the head. If your running the original drum brake residual pressure value it should apply a consistent 10 psi of pressure to the rears. Disk brake residual pressure valves should be in the range of 2 psi. With the wrong residual pressure value in there your not going to get shit for life even out of the best brakes on the market.
 
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