What's new
By:
Filters

Easy/ no brainer upgrade suggestions for New house build?

floor drain in laundry room and master bath, garage also. Run trap primers to them
 
Etyler2 said:
They sell square ones also.

For in laws or parents I always recommend not having enough bedrooms.
Click to expand...
Our guest room is big enough for a queen bed and a walkway on either side of it. That's it. No dresser, and tiny side tables just big enough for a lamp. I want people to be able to stay overnight if they get too drunk to drive home, but I don't want people to be comfortable enough to want to stay more than a week.
1oddtech said:
1000002385.jpg
Click to expand...
Fuck that. You could never keep the water spots off of everything in that shower. Hard pass.
 
bad zuki said:
Put something heavy over it when they come for the inspections. Like a bucket. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
When they inspected my house, they required a plug every drain and fill the vent pipe up with water, until it flowed out of the roof vent.

Now I personally didn't even think a vent would be required to be glued to function, much less need to withstand 30' of head. But I say that to say... make sure you got a good damn plug under that bucket.
 
Not sure if its been mentioned yet, but build it so you get older, you can do all of your living on 1 floor. Master bedroom, kitchen, laundry, den, garage all on the same level. And no more than 1-2 steps to get inside
 
ApeEater said:
Our guest room is big enough for a queen bed and a walkway on either side of it. That's it. No dresser, and tiny side tables just big enough for a lamp. I want people to be able to stay overnight if they get too drunk to drive home, but I don't want people to be comfortable enough to want to stay more than a week.
Click to expand...
That's how my house is designed. Guest room is 12x12 with its own outside access, and a smallish closet. Don't want anyone thinking they can move in. Will have three 50 amp RV plugs since most of my friends have RV's.

Don't forget outside outlets. I noticed on my plans there are no outside outlets. Electric is starting in a few weeks, so I didn't have to do a change order. Adding one outlet to each side patios, two at the main patio, one on the garage work area patio.
 
I don't know where you live, or how houses are typically constructed there. (crawlspace, slab on grade, etc.)
But one house I went to work on one time back in my younger years had the crawlspace sealed up, and built up on the inside of the blocks above outside ground, but had a thin layer of concrete poured over the whole crawlspace. It was thin, but enough to be flat and run around on a creeper. Also there was a switch near the access that flipped on lights all over the place under the house. Was cool to lay on a creeper and roll around everywhere instead of crawling around.
My former house that my grandfather built in 1963, he had lights wired under the house as well. Flip a random switch in the house and the lights under it are on so you're not crawling with a flashlight.
 
Alpine4x4 said:
If you can hide it sure. In the garage its not too hard, much harder in the master bath and laundry room with finished floors.

Not to mention the stink of stagnant water in your ptraps in the house since they will very rarely be used.
Click to expand...
Thats what the trap primer is for
Around here none of that is required to be piped to grease, I could see garage maybe…
 
Projectjunkie said:
I imagine having a few 40psi related connectors in the house would be pretty sweet for dusting blinds and shelves and fans and shit.
Click to expand...
You want 90+ shop air so that you can use tools (mostly trim nailers and woodworking shit since this is inside a house we're talking about) if you need to. Can always regulate it down for the womanly tasks.
 
1oddtech said:
Don't know if it's been said but make sure all kitchen vents actually vent outside and not just recirculate back into the kitchen.
Click to expand...
I added a properly engineered range hood to my last house. Only way to go, everything else is useless.

800 cfm with variable speed fan
8" round ducting, external vent
Duct silencers so it's silent when running unless it's on max power
Deep hood for a large capture of effluent, uses commercial kitchen baffles
light & fan controls on wall switches, no reaching over the range


IMG_6011~2.jpg




This should be the standard for every kitchen, id happily pay far more than what it cost to have the functionality

Edit: This system lets you pan fry dish, Chicken, bacon etc on the range without any food smell in the house (unless you want the smell & turn down the fan:flipoff2:)
 
Last edited:
I just have a microwave range vent but it's just vented to above my head. It works well enough to keep steam out of my face but I'm sure it could be better if it was venting outside. My father bought a gas range that has a vent in the center between the burners that vents outside and it works very well.
 
1oddtech said:
I just have a microwave range vent but it's just vented to above my head. It works well enough to keep steam out of my face but I'm sure it could be better if it was venting outside. My father bought a gas range that has a vent in the center between the burners that vents outside and it works very well.
Click to expand...

The big plus to the one like he posted is it moves enough air to keep smells, heat, moisture and grease off of your ceiling and cabinets. They move a ton of air, we actually have had problems with them moving too much air in really well sealed buildings.
 
1oddtech said:
I just have a microwave range vent but it's just vented to above my head. It works well enough to keep steam out of my face but I'm sure it could be better if it was venting outside. My father bought a gas range that has a vent in the center between the burners that vents outside and it works very well.
Click to expand...
The problem with downdraft vents is they are combating the natural flow of the hot air. Is far more effective & efficient to use an overhead hood. If you have a large capture volume in the hood you can use a relatively low cfm flow rate and still capture all the effluent (like the large & deep hoods at a restaurant ). With a downdraft you have to move massive quantities of air for the same effect.
Pocahontas said:
The big plus to the one like he posted is it moves enough air to keep smells, heat, moisture and grease off of your ceiling and cabinets. They move a ton of air, we actually have had problems with them moving too much air in really well sealed buildings.
Click to expand...

I too have issues with that hood moving too much air, I initially was going to put in a makup air system. Then I realized I was lazy and could just open up the window that's 10ft away opposite the range when I Wok cook and need the fan on over 400cfm :laughing:

When you convert to a more commercial style hood with real baffles it's amazing just how much oil/fat/particulate/moisture you pull out of the exhaust air. Originally I did not include a drain cup in the hood & had to add one in later.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh