Dust Buggy

[Form&function]

On a vehicle with high body roll I add one strap to the rockers on each side.
I highly recommend strapping around the axles as a main point.

I strap axles and pull my suckdown winches about a inch.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Stationary, I use this guy
Balljoint deletes 715-797-0199
Good prices and built like a kingpin,none of that uniball bs

Thanks for the contact info.

So you give up adjustment?
You have to adjust by other means?

 

[Form&function]

Thanks for the contact info.

So you give up adjustment?
You have to adjust by other means?

No adjustments,not a huge deal on a crawler

 

[CDA 455 II]

No adjustments,not a huge deal on a crawler

Ah!

So installing them on a street rig would be questionable?

 

[Form&function]

Ah!

So installing them on a street rig would be questionable?

Probably not,depends on how straight dana welded your c's on

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

The axle side is true. The pocket is stretched out at the top and the bottom isn’t too bad.
Should I heat red hot and hammer the lip back it? Pretend to be a blacksmith?
Cut the whole C off and try to find another 550 C? Where?
Widdle down an oversized BJE brass bushing.
Widdle down both the BJE bushing and the housing?
All of the above?

 

[mobil1syn]

oof, nicely done. is that a crack or just the paint?

 

[CDA 455 II]

The axle side is true. The pocket is stretched out at the top and the bottom isn’t too bad.
Should I heat red hot and hammer the lip back it? Pretend to be a blacksmith?
Cut the whole C off and try to find another 550 C? Where?
Widdle down an oversized BJE brass bushing.
Widdle down both the BJE bushing and the housing?
All of the above?

nOOB question:
Can you weld a plug in it and just re-machine the hole?🤷‍♂️

 

[1Sinner]

I'd rig a fixture, mag drill the hole and weld a slug in, then remachine with the mag drill and final fit with an adjustable reamer

 

[CDA 455 II]

The axle side is true. The pocket is stretched out at the top and the bottom isn’t too bad.
Should I heat red hot and hammer the lip back it? Pretend to be a blacksmith?
Cut the whole C off and try to find another 550 C? Where?
Widdle down an oversized BJE brass bushing.
Widdle down both the BJE bushing and the housing?
All of the above?

For your consideration:

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

oof, nicely done. is that a crack or just the paint?

Just a well placed scratch, not cracked.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

The OG ball joint eliminator guy Nick Barna suggested JB weld and It makes sense. No heat treat issues of heating and forming the pocket back into place. Some guys have cracked the C trying to reform it. The top pocket is alignment only and the loaded side of the pocket is still good. The JB welded side is going to see tire weight only once the BJE is installed since it doesn’t pivot like a ball joint.
I think sanding down an oversized bushing into an egg shape and bedding with JB weld is the best way to go for for what I have. Easy fix and minimal cost and still wheeling this summer.
When I break an axle shaft and its timing of the season, I need to consider whether I should downgrade to an upgraded standard custom Dana 60 based axle with all the good parts or keep going the super 60 route. The upgraded standard 60 has a lot more support and options than the super 60.

 

[CDA 455 II]

The upgraded standard 60 has a lot more support and options than the super 60.

Really?

Very interesting.🤔

 

[Bebop]

I think sanding down an oversized bushing into an egg shape and bedding with JB weld is the best way to go for for what I have. Easy fix and minimal cost and still wheeling this summer.

I agree

When I break an axle shaft and its timing of the season, I need to consider whether I should downgrade to an upgraded standard custom Dana 60 based axle with all the good parts or keep going the super 60 route. The upgraded standard 60 has a lot more support and options than the super 60.

I agree as well.

 

[WaterH]

If you do that for now, you could always keep your eye out for another 550 C. Might get lucky.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

I forgot about another option. Weld repairing and boring. In heavy machinery when a pivot point is worn out they pad weld to regain material and line bore to spec. I could TIG weld the pocket back and barrel sand to fit the bushing. Low heat input and would get back to original specs.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Weld repair and sanding is close until the BJE’s show up so I can check clearance. The pocket is a little wider than stock so that will probably be the new diameter as I don’t want to add more weld to over half the pocket. Only enough weld to get it round again.
Stock bushing is 1.643” and the oversized bushing is 1.770” so will turn down the oversized bushing and sand the pocket until the two match.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You have a line borer to keep the ball joint bores in line? Nice work.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

You have a line borer to keep the ball joint bores in line? Nice work.

No line bore tools. Just go by eye lining up bottom and top pockets so far. For the final truing and ID I might make a sanding mandrel of some sort.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

No line bore tools. Just go by eye lining up bottom and top pockets so far. For the final truing and ID I might make a sanding mandrel of some sort.

Or a long reamer.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Front diff oil. Drained 70 OZ to work on hubs. 65 OZ is clear like new. 5 OZ is pearl, no chips, no big glitter.
Does this look about right? First time this gear set has probably run since factory. Maybe 100 - 150 gallons of fuel with front engaged.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Ball joint eliminators are in. Got oversized bushings and machined down to fit. Welded the steel cups to the knuckles with 312 TIG with a 400° preheat at the weld area with a torch and needle gunned while hot.
Bolting everything back up was easy. Nothing is out of alignment ant the hub. The steering arm, I can see that the arm has moved inward due to the hit and adjusted the rod ends to realign. Nothing is cracked and the bolts are all torqued. I can see that the tabs moved upward just a little.
The old buggy would have laughed at this 550 axle as it was smashing a 3 foot boulder going 20MPH and bending the wheel.
If this steering and knuckle is bent then a standard 2005 F250 SD 60 with machined stock high steer might still be on the trail waiting for parts so I can hike back in and fix it to get out.
Tube and center are solid. Maybe it’s time to figure out how to turn it into a super king pin.

 

[mobil1syn]

impressive the carnage and how well it survived. those bent tabs are wild

 

[06h3]

What axle was on your old buggy?

As for the diff, if it’s the first oil change on new gears/bearings I wouldn’t be concerned. There’s always some dark fluid from things breaking in

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

What axle was on your old buggy?

It didn’t have axles…
Search for HydroDynamic Buggy Build Thread

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

impressive the carnage and how well it survived. those bent tabs are wild

The force to bend 3/8” double shear tabs in nearly a flat plane from the link to the ram, blows my mind. I can still see the look on everyone’s face after the tree hit us. My boys are animals at football and can to take a hit. Nevertheless next time I want the tree to fall over and we continue on our merry way.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Does this look about right? First time this gear set has probably run since factory. Maybe 100 - 150 gallons of fuel with front engaged.

I can't tell if it looks right because I've never seen used oil in a clean bucket, I need it in a dirty-ass oil pan laced with rust chunks for contrast.

 

[Bebop]

Needs a plate like that :

 

[bjeep]

Needs a plate like that :

And the hole has to be dimpled......

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Took the buggy from Tamarack to Swamp Lake and back, near Shaver Lake CA.