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Dust Buggy

HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Broke the brake lines.
While tightening the nut, and holding the ferrule, the fitting broke.
Not knowing if I did something wrong I decided to break another one and it snapped super easy.
After looking at it and seeing how little material connects the stem, nut, ferrule, I figured there had to be a better fitting.
Found out they make the rubber style one piece fitting and use an aluminum knurled sleeve to take up the space for SS braid.
Both old and new are DOT but the one piece is way stronger.
Thanks to Bebop for helping sort it out.
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That seems like a real crappy design for a DOT rated line. :eek: Good catch, and it's much better to figure it out now as opposed to finding out on a trail.
 
It left the garage under its own power.
No brakes ✅
Emergency hand brake works great though
No skid plates ✅
No body panels ✅
The radiator might have a small leak somewhere, I saw fluid on the fan housing but not enough to drip. This will be a pain to find. I have parts to make a new radiator so might just do that. Trans kept taking fluid as I moved through the gears as it heated up. Hopefully it’s full now.
Fans and controllers keep everything at temp.
Steering is smooth and fast and doesn’t whine.
Everything shifts like it’s supposed to.
Not a lot of room to test, but it breaks the tires loose in the turns.
Pretty sure some of the injectors are dirty.
Got a small drip between the NWF and the adapter on the 4L80.

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mobil1syn said:
wheres the burnout videos?
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Still taking it easy as the bugs show up. That and I only have an emergency brake. For example the trans was full but then took more. I keep checking every thing and push it a little more every time.

The circuit breaker for the fans has tripped a couple times but runs normal most of the time.
Ditched the circuit breaker and installed MAXI fuses instead out of recommendation of SPAL. Have not tested yet.
 
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did you use a plate between the 4l80 and the NWF box? I had an issue with my ecobox leaking and had to add a 1/8 plate and 2 gaskets because of the way the clocking holes lined up with the 4l80
 
Tore it down and the Eco didn’t have any RTV on it, only the adapter side. So I assume I did a crappy job of applying the RTV. At about 4:00 you can see a gap.
This go around I went overkill with cleaning and a gasket and all the RTV.

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The seal failed? Lol.

I have an ecobox 205 setup with seals between, but still seal the mating surfaces with hylomar/rtv. I replaced the shaft seals last time I had it apart to fix some leaks.

They still leak. I hate it.
 
AgitatedPancake said:
Dumb question - I see an output seal on the trans, and an input seal on the ecobox, what causes that cavity to have fluid in it?
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I believe the trans output shaft bushing is pressurized and the seal keeps fluid held in. The seal is new and shows no signs of wear or damage.
On the 2WD models there is a plug with orifice at the 3:00 position that leaks fluid for the slip yoke. 4WD have a solid plug as it’s not needed.
The top hole at 12:00 and at bottom hole at 6:00 is a drain that goes back to the pan. If the pan oil sloshes around it can go through the drain and collect between the adapter and t-case.
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Ahhh that explains it, thanks. Had to do some picture searching to see more references, I get it now. I'm used to 4wd mopar transmissions which have no fluid path besides bypassing the seal. My 231/205 bolts up dry to the trans and hasn't had leak issues, so I was scratching my head
 
Oil pan skid is reattached with TMR tube adapters. Non interlocking so it drops down easy. They don’t make a 1.75” by .25” wall so turned down the slip and there is still.125 wall left to align and weld into.
I messed up and had a lower one in tension instead of compression so had to cut it out and reattach.
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Switched out the Howe 4” reservoir for the Radial Dynamics 3.5”. Also switched out the PSC XR race pump for the RD Pro Series TC.
Still need to plumb in the 3PSI regulator to keep constant pressure on the reservoir.
Was it necessary, not sure, the Howe and PSC setup worked great together, so does this setup. The PSC pump was definitely faster at idle than the RD TC pump.
Either way one more thing checked off the list. If you are interested in the Howe PSC setup send me a DM for a smoking deal.

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Depending on how you plan to drive this thing, you could overdrive the pump for more flow. But I'm surprised you find the PSC pump had more idle flow given the fact its displacement was lower.
 
Bebop said:
Depending on how you plan to drive this thing, you could overdrive the pump for more flow. But I'm surprised you find the PSC pump had more idle flow given the fact its displacement was lower.
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The PSC says 11.3 and the RD says 11.0
Should be too close to tell, maybe it was just in my head.
The pulley is a 6” bolt on two piece so I could swap the pulley fairly easy if PSC offers a 5” or 5.5”.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The PSC says 11.3 and the RD says 11.0
Should be too close to tell, maybe it was just in my head.
The pulley is a 6” bolt on two piece so I could swap the pulley fairly easy if PSC offers a 5” or 5.5”.
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Eric had recommended a 5.5" pulley for his 6gpm TC pump on an LS platform engine to me when I asked. He said the added overdrive wouldn't exceed upper rpm limitation but the higher rpm at idle would help keep up. I have not installed or run it yet, so I do not have first hand input.
 
Resolved the hesitation and misfire. Cylinder 2 coded. Replaced a bad plug at cylinder 2. Must have been dropped and the gap was too close. Dropped one taking them out and both looked identical. Replaced them all.
Replaced both O2 sensors and those codes cleared as well. Both looked crusty coming out.

iBooster is too powerful, need a lighter foot. Locks up and holds in low first. Forgot to see if it held in low low first but I assume it will.


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Very cool to see the feedback on the iBooster, just went back a few pages to refresh myself on the specs of your setup (4:1 pedal ratio, ~1" metric master cylinder) just as a reference baseline. Do you actually feel like you've got too much braking power with a light touch, or just describing how good it is?
 
AgitatedPancake said:
Very cool to see the feedback on the iBooster, just went back a few pages to refresh myself on the specs of your setup (4:1 pedal ratio, ~1" metric master cylinder) just as a reference baseline. Do you actually feel like you've got too much braking power with a light touch, or just describing how good it is?
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It’s more powerful than any other car I have driven. First time hitting it at low speed I slid forward in the seat and pushed on the pedal even harder to stay seated.
 
Cool problem to have :laughing:. Is it known if the iBooster runs in like a 100% power failsafe mode in these retrofit applications? Is the power tuneable via one of the other unused wires (in our application) on the unit?
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The PSC says 11.3 and the RD says 11.0
Should be too close to tell, maybe it was just in my head.
The pulley is a 6” bolt on two piece so I could swap the pulley fairly easy if PSC offers a 5” or 5.5”.
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Unfortunately the only 5.5 and 5" pulley options are the single piece aluminum pulleys. They don't make any that I am aware of in that size to fit the two-piece hub but yes, the TC pumps are typically used with a 5.5" pulley on an LS to get better low rpm flow and with the Pro Series pumps, I have no reservations about spinning them 8K rpm if necessary.
 
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