dump trailer wireless remote

Wades_76_cj7

Name is Wade, but your mom calls me Daddy.
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Reading Panz thread here gave me an idea about adding cheap wireless remote for my dump trailer. I can buy one for a dump trailer on Ebay for about $150. any reason I can't use a HF winch wireless remote? it's just tripping solenoids for the pump. the winch control shouldn't care that it's a hydro pump solenoid instead correct?
 
Should be the same 3 way deal as a winch.

I'd make sure you have a back up, I haven't had good luck with the HF remotes and by that I mean neither of them work :laughing:
 
I just saw a video on this the other day was pretty nifty I’ll find it and send it on and it was with a HF remote .
 
Should be the same 3 way deal as a winch.

I'd make sure you have a back up, I haven't had good luck with the HF remotes and by that I mean neither of them work :laughing:
I would keep the corded control in the box as a backup. I won't modify anything that I can't run the OEM corded remote for just that reason.
I just saw a video on this the other day was pretty nifty I’ll find it and send it on and it was with a HF remote .
:beer:
 
I did not watch this in full but comments looked good . The video I saw was a short !
 
Reading Panz thread here gave me an idea about adding cheap wireless remote for my dump trailer. I can buy one for a dump trailer on Ebay for about $150. any reason I can't use a HF winch wireless remote? it's just tripping solenoids for the pump. the winch control shouldn't care that it's a hydro pump solenoid instead correct?
Pretty easy green wire is 12v+ black wire 12v- blue and brown wires are the hot signal wires when the buttons are pushed.
 
Looks like I have black, white, green and red wires. Of course my solenoid set up is a sealed all in one unit.
 

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Phawkin lazy much:flipoff2:
Still gotta operate the tailgate
Oh round 3?
 
I've had the harbor freight $30 special remote on my dump trailer for 3-4 years and it still works just fine. Very handy to just be able to get back in the truck in bad weather
 
Looks like I have black, white, green and red wires. Of course my solenoid set up is a sealed all in one unit.
figure out the 12v and ground, the other two are the solenoid wires.
take you ten minutes to figure it all out with a power probe.

I'd assume red to be 12v and black to be ground, but you probably shouldn't.
 
OK So looking that the onlne schematics for the pump pendant:

black +
white -
red is up
green is down.

I took the cover off the winch remote box

red +
black +


white and green are solenoid control

when i hook the winch remote to the pendant cord and hit a button I get a faint click one time then nothing. pump motor doesn't run, hit the other button and nothing. I can hear the winch control box clicking to engage the relays each way.

KTI pump assembly schematic here.


Since the solenoids are kind of sealed I was hoping to just cut one end off the pendant extension so I can always use the pendant if the remote goes dead.
 
you gotta also trip the start solenoid for the motor it looks like.

this is from the PDF.
Screenshot from 2023-01-20 13-51-32.png
 
I'm going to guess that the HF wifi remote only outputs power to the solenoids. While the pendant does that and completes the circuit on the black/white to trigger the pump.
I would use some diodes and run a relay with the HF remote solenoids to send the 12V to the start solenoid for the motor.
 
Pics
 

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looks like it matches the diagram.
you gotta get 12v onto that white wire to turn on the pump.

I would jump the solenoid output wires from the HF controller to that white wire with some diodes so that you didn't backfeed both solenoids at the same time.
that would energize the pump solenoid and the hydraulic solenoids at the same time with 2 wires.

It shouldn't be a ton of current, so some 5w diodes probably do it.
if it were me I would open up the HF receiver and see if there was enough room to sneak them inside the case. Keep it clean. Maybe even just solder the legs of the diodes directly to the board.

the only problem is that you will lose the ground that the HF receiver is currently using through that solenoid because you're going to put 12V positive to it. May cause the receiver to shut off when you turn it on. Might have to run a separate ground wire just for the HF controller on a bullet connector or something. Leave the original pendant wiring intact and just have an extra wire zip tied to it. Tie it right into the motor case ground.
crude drawing attached. Diodes for the purple lines, additional ground in black. imagine that it's the HF receiver and not the pendant in the diagram.
 

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Reading Panz thread here gave me an idea about adding cheap wireless remote for my dump trailer. I can buy one for a dump trailer on Ebay for about $150. any reason I can't use a HF winch wireless remote? it's just tripping solenoids for the pump. the winch control shouldn't care that it's a hydro pump solenoid instead correct?
I used a winch controller off Amazon on my buddies dump trailer, I'll link it. $18

LIEBMAYA Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit Switch for Truck Jeep ATV SUV 12V Switch Handset https://a.co/d/6ODxI6I
 
I used a winch controller off Amazon on my buddies dump trailer, I'll link it. $18

LIEBMAYA Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit Switch for Truck Jeep ATV SUV 12V Switch Handset https://a.co/d/6ODxI6I
that looks to be very similar to the HF controller I have now. I just need a way to backfeed and turn the motor on also. it trips the solenoids since I can hear them clicking but the pump motor doesn't turn on.
 
that looks to be very similar to the HF controller I have now. I just need a way to backfeed and turn the motor on also. it trips the solenoids since I can hear them clicking but the pump motor doesn't turn on.
If you have space, a pair of 12 volt relays would take care of that problem, tie one relay in to be triggered along with each of the valve solenoid coils and have the inputs and outputs of both relays tied together and to the positive wire, then use that to feed the solenoid that turns on the pump motor.
Using this wiring diagram:
you gotta also trip the start solenoid for the motor it looks like.

this is from the PDF.
Screenshot from 2023-01-20 13-51-32.png


And this diagram for the new relays:
Driving_light_relay_wiring_diagram.png

Up Relay:
  • 86: Green from remote
  • 85: Ground
  • 30: Battery +
  • 87: White to start solenoid
Down Relay:
  • 86: Red from remote
  • 85: Ground
  • 30: Battery +
  • 87: White to start solenoid

Aaron Z
 
I think I have a couple relays already

Thanks
 
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