Dumb drywall question

fordguy

blah.
Joined
Nov 24, 2022
Messages
622
So Im gonna need to do a lot of drywall work after having to run new cable and other work. My dumb question is, I see people put tape over drywall, but how do you get rid of the elevated area from the tape and joint compound?

Asking because Id like it to be totally unnoticable and flat when I am done. I do have a drywall sandee from HF but if I sand that, wont I just sand away the tape too?
 
Meh, I skip the tape...use some good hotter mud, push it in the joint well, and then feather out the rest. Saves a ton of effort and I haven't had cracking issues doing it this way ever.
 
The long sides of drywall have tapered edges. The tape and mud fits into that valley.

Edge.jpg


So you want to limit the butted edges of the short sides of the drywall.
 
The long sides of drywall have tapered edges. The tape and mud fits into that valley.

Edge.jpg


So you want to limit the butted edges of the short sides of the drywall.

genius. Im going to be fixing holes like 6x6" but I had no idea, this will help down the roas
 
And the lazy drywallers who build up the mud at inside corners 1/4" plus make it even worse.

Outside corners never plane flat either, always built up a 1/4" or more.
I've got bullnose cornerbead in my house. Jose didn't bother tightly installing it and then proceeded to just float it out with a 6" knife. I've been going room by room floating walls and retexturing. I'll see if I can upload a couple of videos.
 
Meh, I skip the tape...use some good hotter mud, push it in the joint well, and then feather out the rest. Saves a ton of effort and I haven't had cracking issues doing it this way ever.

I should clarify, but I mean this only for patches/repairs...not when doing entire sheets or drywalling a room the first time.
 
Tape reinforces the joint. You want tape. Then you just have to float it out so it's not noticeable. A 6" patch will end up getting mud about 2' around it.

Hot mud dries hard as hell. It's a pain in the ass to sand. Not recommended for learning with.
I like mesh tape with hot mud for patches.

For whole sheets, I usually do tape coat with 45 or 90 hot mud. Then subsequent coats with green lid mud.

Also , cheat code on sanding. After tape coat, and second coat you can use an old 6" knife and just scrape the high spots no sanding needed. I usually only sand prior to final coat.
 
:cool2:Meh, I skip the tape...use some good hotter mud, push it in the joint well, and then feather out the rest. Saves a ton of effort and I haven't had cracking issues doing it this way ever.
Just got into it right...
Or do you move alot...:lmao:
 
Tldr
Who posted the method of cutting out the skin/paper method?
Cut a 6" hole from say, a doorknob, cut patch out at 8", trim paper to float ?
If you don't know, don't ask:flipoff2:
It's not useful without a backer board...
 
Tldr
Who posted the method of cutting out the skin/paper method?
Cut a 6" hole from say, a doorknob, cut patch out at 8", trim paper to float ?
If you don't know, don't ask:flipoff2:
It's not useful without a backer board...
I know that as a "Butterfly" patch. Works great for small holes.
 
As others mentioned, construction is all about "magic" and fooling the eyes.

It is mind blowing for people who like "perfect". It drove me nuts when I was in actual construction. Paraphrase of convo:
"This isn't square"
"Come over here. What do you see?"
"Nothing"
"Exactly"
 
As others mentioned, construction is all about "magic" and fooling the eyes.

It is mind blowing for people who like "perfect". It drove me nuts when I was in actual construction. Paraphrase of convo:
"This isn't square"
"Come over here. What do you see?"
"Nothing"
"Exactly"
As a machinist who occasionally dabbles in carpentry, it drives me insane how out of square/plumb everything is. It's close enough you don't notice when you get finished, but damn if it doesn't mess with my mind.
 
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