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Drains for before the garage door

71PA_Highboy

An Unknown but Engorged Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
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442
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172
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Near the Triad, Lookin' at the freeway
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link isn’t working for me but get the plastic ones that can handle oil and gas if you work in your garage
 
I don't see that plastic channel tolerating small wheels like engine hoists and whatnot.
 
It looks like the one you linked is held in place by dirt/stone/whatever piled up on that lip on the base of it. Around me I would expect the frost to heave it all over the place. I just installed one of these https://www.lowes.com/pd/NDS-40-in-L-x-5-in-W-Channel-Drain-Kit/50373212 out in my yard where I am having erosion issues. The one I linked has these loop things that I think you are supposed to put giant nails through to hold it in place, I was not impressed with that idea to hold it down. I cut them off and built a trough out of treated 2x 12s, screwed the plastic into that and filled the extra space with great stuff outdoor foam. Id like to do 32ft of channel drain at the end of my driveway apron but am skeptical about holding it in place with frost
 
does it have to be a covered drain? What is the structure of the driveway?

Consider looking into aluminum or galvanized hway guard rails, if they can be "open." Pretty common to use them in the south as drainage. I have 3 in the drive - two work awesome, one does get full of gravel a lot.
 
does it have to be a covered drain? What is the structure of the driveway?

Consider looking into aluminum or galvanized hway guard rails, if they can be "open." Pretty common to use them in the south as drainage. I have 3 in the drive - two work awesome, one does get full of gravel a lot.
Fuck. I was just thinking about how I'm gonna do a concrete culvert in my property to controll runoff. I'm gonna look into that shit now. I can get it for free courtesy of the the taxpayer. :flipoff2:


It wouldn't be hard to throw some bar-grate over one if you need to have the top be flat.
 
Fuck. I was just thinking about how I'm gonna do a concrete culvert in my property to controll runoff. I'm gonna look into that shit now. I can get it for free courtesy of the the taxpayer. :flipoff2:


It wouldn't be hard to throw some bar-grate over one if you need to have the top be flat.
Just make sure its not marked as Corten; otherwise it'll be rusted to nothing in about 5 years.

I have something similar to the original link posted and as long as I keep the bigger rocks out of it, I run it over with everything from my 1 Ton Ram SRW, a full size party bus, and my skid steer, along various other machines. Only one time did I put a transition plate across it and that was when I had someone bring over a big hard tire forklift so I could help rebuilt the mast cylinder. My driveway is gravel and this was already installed before I moved in. The neighbors said the building flooded really bad for years until they finally convinced a previous owner to install one of these. It works fairly well so long as I keep it cleaned out once a year. I gave up on the screws long ago and don't have any issues with the panels coming up. I do make it a conscious point not to turn the skid machine while in the door way though. Its recessed enough and the driveway outside is elevated enough that the machines rarely put much contact on it. The rocks getting in it WILL break the grating though. This building is semi-residential in nature as its an ICF constructed 3200 SF Barndominium.

20220207_100920.jpg


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Run it into a sump to be able to keep the debris and crap out of the rest of the drainage system.
 
So I am looking to put in some drainage across the driveway and in front of the garage door.

Looking at these:


Gonna need 40 foot to cover the area I want to ensure good drainage, so what are the pros/cons for this solution?

Anything better out there?
I did it, posted a thread asking about cutting concrete. Rent the walk behind, life was cake with it. Its a day job if you rent the saw. Electric Corded Demo Saws - Experience?

install was easy. Shop around for grates, I found a 25-50% difference between ordering online vs going to the local big box for what they had.

I put a "box" at the end of the run, before the pipe. it catches the small gravel and leaves that works its way down. Does EXACTLY what I needed it to do and handles a lot of water.

1644343917207.png
 
Now that I have the mini-ex I am back looking at this.


Looks like a 6" can get a load rating of D and since it is built pre-sloped it will look a lot better where I need it to match the floor height of the shop.

Anyone use this product before?
 
Having never installed channel drains before, is it as simple as removing the grate, making and installing a plywood (or other) block off in place of the grate, setting at grade and pouring concrete around it?
 
Having never installed channel drains before, is it as simple as removing the grate, making and installing a plywood (or other) block off in place of the grate, setting at grade and pouring concrete around it?
ours, they set them and poured around them
it was pretty easy
 
Having never installed channel drains before, is it as simple as removing the grate, making and installing a plywood (or other) block off in place of the grate, setting at grade and pouring concrete around it?
You can just wrap the grate in plastic or tape over it and put it back in to maintain spacing ...
 
$90/ft plus shipping... :eek:

As good as it looks I am not sure it works for me at this price.
jesus. I think mine were well under $10/ft. I'm not sure how much the load rating matters if it's narrow enough the tires spread the load across the thing to the concrete anyway.

You can just wrap the grate in plastic or tape over it and put it back in to maintain spacing ...
confirmed. You want to leave the grate in so the sides don't buckle. Fill your surrounding trench with the drains held in place by rocks/rebar/whatever so they don't float. Use a golf all or something to make sure you've got a little pitch for runoff, and go. One of the easier projects I've done, biggest PITA is making the trench to begin with
 
find a guy with a plasma table and a 1/4 sheet of steel

I'd build them myself for that price, it isn't rocket science
 
why do you want to spend so much? what's the benefit? $12/ft versus your $41 link, and this one is wider
Amazon.com

first link I found

Load capacity. That is 5t, so it may be enough.

If I am driving a dump truck across this (and I will be bringing tri-axles across this occasionally) and it breaks the plastic or deforms the grates then I have something else to fix.

Agreed, if I do good concrete work there should be less of an issue, but I would rather buy once, cry once, than have to dig shit up and re-do it.

Also, I would like the concrete to be pitched in 1 plane vs 2 planes so the pre-sloped 'trench' keeps the pitch in a single plane, so easier install since I need almost 46' straight line to make this work for the shop/driveway

This is Irate4x4, so overbuilding is almost a requirement... ;)

Oh yea... the second link is only $36 per foot... :lmao:
 
I get it, just trying to make sure you shop around :grinpimp:. No way would I want to dig it up and redo.

If you go 4" wide I'd be surprised if a dump truck tire even really puts much pressure on the grate to begin with, I'd expect the tire to basically span across the grate. But my grates aren't flat like __ they are dished a little so that's a factor in my thinking. You can kinda tell if you look at my pic above, car tires definitely contact, but they're 5" wide not 4". Quick search of tire size to contact area length didn't net me an easy estimate so I gave up


I don't understand the pre-sloped trench drain, can you un-stupid me? They come in 3ft sections generally from what I've seen. If that 3ft section is sloped, the low side of the 1st section is going to run into the wall of the high side of the next 3ft section right? in my head, the mfg would have to custom make each 3ft piece to have a consistent slope across any span the customer is trying to span, to make a smooth slope/ramp for the water to run along.

black = sloped drain. red = drain seam. blue = water path. Don't get how off-the-shelf trenches are going to not have that wall to hold water
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I assume they're sloped from one end to the other and have a maximum run the pre-slope can accommodate.

Pre-sloping is nice because it means the concrete can be flat and level, but your drain is sloped towards the end so that water runs out.
 
THis looks like a good idea. I buried drainage tile years ago in front of mine, but might try to do this in the future.
 
I assume they're sloped from one end to the other and have a maximum run the pre-slope can accommodate.

Pre-sloping is nice because it means the concrete can be flat and level, but your drain is sloped towards the end so that water runs out.
still not understanding

the link is 14 pieces of short length and what I would assume to be identical construction. How do you get a 46' slope from 14 3' pieces without the ledge I crudely drew


i want to understand dammit:laughing::homer:
 
still not understanding

the link is 14 pieces of short length and what I would assume to be identical construction. How do you get a 46' slope from 14 3' pieces without the ledge I crudely drew


i want to understand dammit:laughing::homer:

You're failing to understand that the 14 pieces you'd use are not identical. They have different slope start and stop elevations within the channel drain profile, so that you can make continuous slopes. They're all numbered and have an order they're installed.

Reference:


Configuration Details

The Swiftdrain 600 trench drain system consists of 32 pre sloped and neutral channels. Trench drain runs can be extendable upwards of 256 feet of continuous slope.

The 600 series can reach run lengths of 835 linear feet by implementing neutrals and custom configuration. Channels come sequentially numbered and have arrows to indicate direction of flow.

Channels are sloped .7% – 1%.
 
Configuration Details

The Swiftdrain 600 trench drain system consists of 32 pre sloped and neutral channels. Trench drain runs can be extendable upwards of 256 feet of continuous slope.

The 600 series can reach run lengths of 835 linear feet by implementing neutrals and custom configuration. Channels come sequentially numbered and have arrows to indicate direction of flow.

Channels are sloped .7% – 1%.
Sounds expensive :laughing:
 
I'd imagine the plastic ones would melt from a heat trace?
 
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