What's new
By:
Filters

Diesel or Leave It?

Diesel fuel is 1.50 a gallon MORE than gas? Ouch!

How about heating oil? I've run equipment and trucks on it for years. Currently $3.35 vs $3.90 for gas at home. At work it's 7.00 for diesel and 7.15 for gas... down from $9 area a few months ago.
 
HippyJoDiesel said:
The manual glow is not an issue, I'd just planned to do something like a momentary switch and a Ford solenoid for the glow plugs, I'm learning, last time I used a SPDT switch, and the number of damn times I left the glows on all the time and flattened the battery I don't recall (this was on a VW).

I hadn't heard of not mixing the two? I thought it was common practice to have a main tank of WVO and a starter tank of diesel, and just flush the system at the end of each journey by flicking it over, manually or otherwise, which would mean the WVO and diesel would meet in the fuel lines. This being cause you need something to heat the WVO, usually engine coolant, unless you have some kind of electric immersion heater and can leave it plugged in at each end of your journey?

Anyway, not arguing, just inquiring, I'm not at the point where I'm talking to local diners BUT when a bunch of guys in the middle east can choose to withhold oil to stabilize the price (read: steadily increase), I start looking around, and EV's still don't have the infrastructure or range for us rural folks. I liked the idea CAT had in their early demos, where they would harvest then press soybeans, and then run their tractors on it, I'm in the corn/soy belt, use what you got. Suppose I could rejet the carb for ethanol too tho'. The carb is toast anyways.
Click to expand...
Yeah a starter button and solenoid is the style I do, seen too many people use a toggle switch and burn something up.
I might not have been clear on the "Don't mix the two". I mean do not mix WVO (waste vegetable oil) and WMO (waste motor oil), mixing either of the two with diesel is fine.
WVO+Diesel=Fine
WMO+Diesel=Fine
WMO+WVO=Sludge in tank

The 2 tank system is good in colder climates unless you rig up a heating system for a 1 tank setup, seen a few that use a plug in circulating heater to heat the engine up along with fuel tank then uses the trucks coolant to heat the fuel tank\lines so as long as the truck is warmed up so is the fuel.
 
Lowrollin70gmc said:
If you need one, cover the cost of a set of intake gaskets and shipping and I'll pull it off my 84 6.2. (I think the intake has to come off, I'll try without it first).

Was a 6.2/700R4 and I've swapped to an NV4500 after blowing up the 700R4. Left the linkage on the engine.

I probably have some wiring and shift linkage laying around as well. I'll look on Saturday when I'm back at the shop.


And for the record, I love my 6.2. Granted it's in a 2wd short bed, but my expectations are realistic and it's been a good driver with awesome fuel mileage. If it blows up, I'll just toss another one in.
IMG_20210910_090056.jpg
Click to expand...

Cool driver, I've considered similar...

Turbo or na? Rear end gears? Highway mileage?
 
Projectjunkie said:
Cool driver, I've considered similar...

Turbo or na? Rear end gears? Highway mileage?
Click to expand...
Goodwrench replacement NA 6.2 with injection pump screw thing turned 1/8 turn. 2.25 dual exhaust, summit turbo mufflers and 2.5" post muffler (all stuff I had on hand).

3.42s with 33x12.5R15s out back. Roughly same as stock 3.08s. Added some tire height as the NV4500s 5th isn't as low (numerically) as the 700. Plus fat back tires look cool. Dropped it 3" front and roughly 3.5" rear and added 4wd front valence under the bumper for aero.

Haven't measured fuel mileage after manual swap and drop. But was 20-22mpg at 70-75 with the auto, 3.42s, and 235/75R15s. I'm guessing on my 2 lane 60-65mph commute it'll get at least 24. Probably 20 at 75. I'm finishing up winter work on it now: aftermarket AC, all new wiring, new interior, electric fans, crusie control, etc to improve its commuter comfort.

It was my grandpa's truck and I'm hot rodding it while keeping it stockish.
It sat in the woods behind his house for 8ish years before I pulled it out and started driving it. It's even faded original paint, not primer. Only major issues have been 700 blowing up and AC leaking R12.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Yeah a starter button and solenoid is the style I do, seen too many people use a toggle switch and burn something up.
I might not have been clear on the "Don't mix the two". I mean do not mix WVO (waste vegetable oil) and WMO (waste motor oil), mixing either of the two with diesel is fine.
WVO+Diesel=Fine
WMO+Diesel=Fine
WMO+WVO=Sludge in tank

The 2 tank system is good in colder climates unless you rig up a heating system for a 1 tank setup, seen a few that use a plug in circulating heater to heat the engine up along with fuel tank then uses the trucks coolant to heat the fuel tank\lines so as long as the truck is warmed up so is the fuel.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, hadn't thought about WMO, do synthetics burn like dino MO?
 
HippyJoDiesel said:
Gotcha, hadn't thought about WMO, do synthetics burn like dino MO?
Click to expand...
I've tried 5L batch of synth engine oil into 25L of diesel. Didn't notice any difference. IME, all wmo does tends to haze/smoke more.
 
Yeah no real difference along with the guys that run used ATF through them. Think biggest thing is just filter stuff good but wanted to bring up the mixing because it's a pain to deal with.
I'm sure if you were running WVO and lost your supply but found WMO you could probably run few tanks of pure diesel through then make switch after changing filters. What's the old saying "your mileage may vary" 😂
 
Sounds like you are sharp enough to make the truck pretty bitchin with the 6.2.

A story about WVO/SVO:

I met an old gearhead 20 years ago, VW certified master mechanic that worked in the California factories blah blah blah flew him to Germany for training and there were only a dozen at any given time in North America, one or two per factory on the engine lines final adjustment or something. Later he moved to oregon and was a millwright boss in the lumber mills. He had a barn full of air cooled VW cases that burnt down, purple flames for three days.

But anyways, He did a lot of WVO mods to Mercedes OMs and diesel VWs back in the 90s and early 00s when only the cool kids did it.

He told me a story about going back to the John Deere factory in the early 90s when they were experimenting with SVO. They found the combustion chamber temp had like a 15 degree window where it didn’t coke up the rings and need a rebuild after a few hundred hours.

Add to that his experience working with people who did not have the commitment to really filter and polish the WVO, and who got gold-fever and pumped out the last cruddy dregs when harvesting.

Also he pointed out installing and maintaining fuel heating systems was en extra point of potential failure. And high frequency fuel filter changes, well actually most people didn’t change them until the car wouldn’t climb hills.

Now this was 20th century diesel tech pressure actuated injectors from a distributor pump, not common rail. My experience is common rail is much less forgiving on fuel quality.

So his big takeaway was take that WVO and make bio-d: the “losses” in gallons and additional labor more than outweighed the cost of rebuilding an engine 3x. And it will run through factory systems with the rubber switches out.

Of course your bio-d game needs to be on point because residual glycerin in the bio-d will do the same coke-ing of the rings outside the ideal temp range.
 
WutCudGoWrong? said:
Sounds like you are sharp enough to make the truck pretty bitchin with the 6.2.

A story about WVO/SVO:

I met an old gearhead 20 years ago, VW certified master mechanic that worked in the California factories blah blah blah flew him to Germany for training and there were only a dozen at any given time in North America, one or two per factory on the engine lines final adjustment or something. Later he moved to oregon and was a millwright boss in the lumber mills. He had a barn full of air cooled VW cases that burnt down, purple flames for three days.

But anyways, He did a lot of WVO mods to Mercedes OMs and diesel VWs back in the 90s and early 00s when only the cool kids did it.

He told me a story about going back to the John Deere factory in the early 90s when they were experimenting with SVO. They found the combustion chamber temp had like a 15 degree window where it didn’t coke up the rings and need a rebuild after a few hundred hours.

Add to that his experience working with people who did not have the commitment to really filter and polish the WVO, and who got gold-fever and pumped out the last cruddy dregs when harvesting.

Also he pointed out installing and maintaining fuel heating systems was en extra point of potential failure. And high frequency fuel filter changes, well actually most people didn’t change them until the car wouldn’t climb hills.

Now this was 20th century diesel tech pressure actuated injectors from a distributor pump, not common rail. My experience is common rail is much less forgiving on fuel quality.

So his big takeaway was take that WVO and make bio-d: the “losses” in gallons and additional labor more than outweighed the cost of rebuilding an engine 3x. And it will run through factory systems with the rubber switches out.

Of course your bio-d game needs to be on point because residual glycerin in the bio-d will do the same coke-ing of the rings outside the ideal temp range.
Click to expand...
Can you not periodically clean out the coke before it becomes an issue by running regular diesel and driving the piss out of it?
 
arse_sidewards said:
Can you not periodically clean out the coke before it becomes an issue by running regular diesel and driving the piss out of it?
Click to expand...
I seriously considered water/meth injection to combat coking when I ran my truck on WMO.

Start spraying water/meth at low boost like 5 psi triggered by a pressure switch with very low flow rate nozzle(s) with pump capable of producing sufficient pressure to not get back-fed from high boosting, no extended idling.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh