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Diesel experts step in

Dethmachinefab said:
If it's a cam activated unit injector it will probably seize up eventually and bend shit. Heui or something probably be fine.
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Bingo,

It will ruin the injector and the cam without fuel as lubrication.

If that is the type of system it is.
Kind of hard to imagine anything else based on his description.
 
Unka-Boo said:
Out of curiosity, what engine make is it?
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I believe Onan makes it

Gbkeith said:
I agree that in some applications he might not destroy anything. But just, why? I’m going to refer back to the words of somebody else in this thread.
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I think I mentioned to prevent stacking. I believe, as others mentioned, the pump may get lubricant from the fuel. So not a good idea.

arse_sidewards said:
Dude. Just fix it right. Don't risk a thousands of dollars genset over a fucking $100 injector that you know to be faulty.
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I don’t know the injector is bad. I’m guessing and I will be fixing it.

ThePanzerFuhrer said:
I was inferring that it would be dang near impossible to do what he was asking without wrecking something. I left out the quiet part that this is the stupidest thing I have ever heard :lmao::flipoff2:
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Dang near impossible? Hardly. Like I said, I could just pull the pump or install a spacer under it, but that would not be as easy as shutting a ball valve. You might be surprised that my wife’s Vette shuts down 4 of the 8 cylinders on the highway, so shutting down cylinders is not unheard of.
 
WaterH said:
I believe Onan makes it



I think I mentioned to prevent stacking. I believe, as others mentioned, the pump may get lubricant from the fuel. So not a good idea.



I don’t know the injector is bad. I’m guessing and I will be fixing it.



Dang near impossible? Hardly. Like I said, I could just pull the pump or install a spacer under it, but that would not be as easy as shutting a ball valve. You might be surprised that my wife’s Vette shuts down 4 of the 8 cylinders on the highway, so shutting down cylinders is not unheard of.
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But why? It’s not an emergency where you’re stuck on the side of the road. How is re-plumbing your injection system to include a ball valve easier than fixing it?
 
arse_sidewards said:
Move the injector to another cylinder and see if the problem follows it.
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Yes, I thought of this, but it is difficult to remove the injector. I was able to buy 4 injectors for $50, so I’m just going to wait till I have them in my hand. I’m not in a rush.
 
WaterH said:
I believe Onan makes it



I think I mentioned to prevent stacking. I believe, as others mentioned, the pump may get lubricant from the fuel. So not a good idea.



I don’t know the injector is bad. I’m guessing and I will be fixing it.



Dang near impossible? Hardly. Like I said, I could just pull the pump or install a spacer under it, but that would not be as easy as shutting a ball valve. You might be surprised that my wife’s Vette shuts down 4 of the 8 cylinders on the highway, so shutting down cylinders is not unheard of.
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IDK shit about the diesel your dealing with, but your wife's vette is a totally different animal, shutting diesel is not like turning off a garden hose. it's not designed to work that way.

The genset sounds pretty efficient as designed, just run it the way it was built
 
Gbkeith said:
But why? It’s not an emergency where you’re stuck on the side of the road. How is re-plumbing your injection system to include a ball valve easier than fixing it?
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You don’t understand. I intend to fix it. The question was more related to the fact that I don’t use 5KW now. If I hook a 10 kw up, it’s really prone to stacking. Installing a ball valve would take seconds and I could make the motor work harder at the reduced load.
 
Stingray said:
IDK shit about the diesel your dealing with, but your wife's vette is a totally different animal, shutting diesel is not like turning off a garden hose. it's not designed to work that way.

The genset sounds pretty efficient as designed, just run it the way it was built
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How about you run your jeep with stock tires the way it was designed and built. If you are afraid to modify stuff, what are you doing on this site?
 
WaterH said:
How about you run your jeep with stock tires the way it was designed and built. If you are afraid to modify stuff, what are you doing on this site?
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No_No_He's_Got_A_Point_Banner.jpg
 
WaterH said:
How about you run your jeep with stock tires the way it was designed and built. If you are afraid to modify stuff, what are you doing on this site?
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IMO, a better way to do this would be needle valves at all injectors. Turn down the fuel uniformly. :homer:
 
WaterH said:
How about you run your jeep with stock tires the way it was designed and built. If you are afraid to modify stuff, what are you doing on this site?
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This is one of times you try your hardest to earn that waterhead nickname. You come up with a stupid idea, everyone who knows better tells you it's a stupid idea, and you double down thinking you're smarter than everyone who actually knows about it.

You're not.

If this was a plausible idea, it would have been done a long time ago by engineers who actually know what they're doing. Not a eureka moment from some helicopter pilot in Florida.

If you're that worried about wet stacking, put a load bank on it to take up some of the slack. Or sell it, because the generator you already have works fine for what you need.
 
You should also put household light switches on your plug wires on your Bronco so when you only need 4 cylinders you can turn off the other 4
 
WaterH said:
Unrelated question, I need to buy two batteries for this generator. (24 volts) should I buy red top or yellow top Optima’s?
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I don't know anything about diesel genys so no help there, but get the yellow Optimas, not the red.
 
Its a interesting idea.
It would be easy to try but you are still compressing air in that cylinder so the work is being done but not contributing to making power...
 
Stingray said:
I'm not locking one wheel solid and trying to drive it on the other three.
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I’m not locking a piston either

Bacho said:
IMO, a better way to do this would be needle valves at all injectors. Turn down the fuel uniformly. :homer:
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Yea, some kind of valve that would send the fuel directly to the return line would work, but that would be a lot more difficult.

Bacchus said:
This is one of times you try your hardest to earn that waterhead nickname. You come up with a stupid idea, everyone who knows better tells you it's a stupid idea, and you double down thinking you're smarter than everyone who actually knows about it.

You're not.

If this was a plausible idea, it would have been done a long time ago by engineers who actually know what they're doing. Not a eureka moment from some helicopter pilot in Florida.

If you're that worried about wet stacking, put a load bank on it to take up some of the slack. Or sell it, because the generator you already have works fine for what you need.
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No this is one of those times that I got an idea and checked with the community to see if someone could give me a good reason it might not work. ApeEater was the first person to come up with a good reason. Everybody else that just said it’s stupid are the ones that will never get shit done because they are afraid that some engineer is smarter than them. I’ve known lots of engineers. Some are brilliant, others are dumber than a box of rocks.

Not a plausible idea? As mentioned, it is allready on a Corvette and many other cars I’m sure. Has it been done with diesel? I don’t know, but I would willing to bet it has.

Put more load on it to prevent stacking? That’s your brilliant engineering idea? Maybe you should also stick with stock tires too.
 
CarterKraft said:
Its a interesting idea.
It would be easy to try but you are still compressing air in that cylinder so the work is being done but not contributing to making power...
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Yea, I thought about that. It would compress on the up stroke and act like a spring on the down stroke. So the total power wasted on that cylinder wouldn’t be horrible. I’m guessing that’s why it ran smooth also.
 
WaterH said:
I believe Onan makes it



I think I mentioned to prevent stacking. I believe, as others mentioned, the pump may get lubricant from the fuel. So not a good idea.



I don’t know the injector is bad. I’m guessing and I will be fixing it.



Dang near impossible? Hardly. Like I said, I could just pull the pump or install a spacer under it, but that would not be as easy as shutting a ball valve. You might be surprised that my wife’s Vette shuts down 4 of the 8 cylinders on the highway, so shutting down cylinders is not unheard of.
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Waterhead you are comparing two very different things. Shutting off a gas engine injector is no where near the same as a diesel. Even asking and fighting that this could be done is absolutely stupid. You wonder why your belt doesn’t work on your 4bt. It’s cause you fucked with the stock setup. This is the same thing. It will get fucked if you mess with it.

Put a new injector in it. Better yet change all three. If one dies the others are not far from the same it seems. To find the right one grab a ir temp gun and compare exhaust manifold temps at each cylinder. The odd temp one tends to be the one over fueling.

As for the idea of wet stacking it will never happen in your lifetime. It will be fine. Unless it’s a 71 series Detroit it will not be a problem once the injector is rectified.

I have a dozen plus diesel gensets ranging from 8kw to 500kw. In the 40-50,000 hours I have been running them I have never had to worry about wet stacking. I do run some at less than 20% load at times depending on what we are doing.

Deadheading an injection pump is bad news. Running a cam activated injector dry is bad news. You still haven’t told use what engine it is or shown what type of pump it has on it.
 
The valving required to do this is trivial, just dump that cylinders injection pump flow to the return. Shouldn't make much heat or anything but if it's high pressure the impulses might play hell on the connections and valve.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Waterhead you are comparing two very different things. Shutting off a gas engine injector is no where near the same as a diesel. Even asking and fighting that this could be done is absolutely stupid. You wonder why your belt doesn’t work on your 4bt. It’s cause you fucked with the stock setup. This is the same thing. It will get fucked if you mess with it.

Put a new injector in it. Better yet change all three. If one dies the others are not far from the same it seems. To find the right one grab a ir temp gun and compare exhaust manifold temps at each cylinder. The odd temp one tends to be the one over fueling.

As for the idea of wet stacking it will never happen in your lifetime. It will be fine. Unless it’s a 71 series Detroit it will not be a problem once the injector is rectified.

I have a dozen plus diesel gensets ranging from 8kw to 500kw. In the 40-50,000 hours I have been running them I have never had to worry about wet stacking. I do run some at less than 20% load at times depending on what we are doing.

Deadheading an injection pump is bad news. Running a cam activated injector dry is bad news. You still haven’t told use what engine it is or shown what type of pump it has on it.
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Panzer, I respect your experience, but you are not “the authority” and you can also be wrong. (As I can) How can “asking” be stupid? If I had not asked, I wouldn’t have gotten ApeEater’s answer. (That makes the most sense) If you scroll back, you will see that you were incorrect talking about destroying the cylinder wall.

We don’t know the source of the belt problems yet, so you are again jumping to conclusions.

I appreciate your opinion on wet stacking. I suspected as much, but if I asked about it, I’m quite sure everybody would tell me it will destroy my generator in short order. That is the nature of the internet and Irate.

As far as the last question, it was answered in the post I made that you quoted.

IMG_1455.jpeg


Note bolt in fuel supply to far right cylinder.

IMG_1456.jpeg
 
CarterKraft said:
The valving required to do this is trivial, just dump that cylinders injection pump flow to the return. Shouldn't make much heat or anything but if it's high pressure the impulses might play hell on the connections and valve.
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When the valve is open it would be fine, but the valve and plumbing would require 3000 lbs. when closed. It would be so much easier to shut the flow off to the pump. I wonder if I could shut all but a trickle to the pump. Then it would get some lubricant, but not enough to really run the injector. The bottom of the pump gets lots of lube where it rides on the cam, but the inside of the pump probubly needs the fuel. I ran it like that for 30 minutes, so it’s possible I already screwed that pump.
 
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