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did some line boring with garbage and a mag drill

[486]

[486]

ugh, that guy again?
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
94
Messages
5,293
Loc
pine city MN
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well, the shitty editor won't let me type when there's a picture in there how bout that what a fucking joke

anyways, mag drill was magnetted to that 200-300lb angle plate, gravity holding it to the table
quickattach plate is clamped to the table
bearings are cheap garbage pillow blocks,
boring bar is a piece of 1" 1045 TGP with a 11/32" hole drilled in it to fit a piece of 1/4" HSS
steering shaft is for misalignment and shit

First time I've done any of this, got really nice results in only a couple hours work starting from the bearings in boxes and stock in piles about the shop
 
Good fucking job!

Does the mag drill have power feed, or did you just feed gently by hand?
If by hand, are you considering a homebrew power feed to further improve results?
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
How do you measure the bore with that bar in the way? Measure each gap and add the bar diameter?
Click to expand...

caliper
or pull the bar and use a snap gauge like you should
some guys that do it all day use a spring caliper and a micrometer but that's some wizard shit
I just cut them to "whatever" and then made the bushings to fit. Think they ended up something like 1.550" for a 1.25" pin boss

ETA: and it is hand feed, power feed would be way nice but that mag drill is already half my weight
tried a hand drill first, but of course that just bites in way deep, stalls the drill and breaks your wrist
 
Sloppy bucket repair? I can’t tell from the pics. What did you use for a cutting head?
 
Looks like a dump truck hydraulic cylinder mount for the frame. Nice work.
 
Really nice work, I like seeing shit like this way more than fancy clean room machine shops

Skid steer machine side quick attach plate. Top is facing us in the first pic. Looks way harder than just greasing it until the slop stops :flipoff2:b
 
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Good grief, most of yall are all over the map except for the right place. Its a skid steer quick connect (probbaly a mini one for something like a Toro Dingo).
It is face down with the top towards the camera in the first picture.
The line boring is for the tilt cylinder brackets, the bottom pins are at the end away from the picture and you can see the latching lever handles sticking up past the top of the plate.

Aaron Z.
 
boob**** 773
had 9000 hrs on it when I bought it
one of the 1.25" lower pins was worn egg shaped to the point that it was less than 3/4" wide at the narrow point

though it don't fuckin matter what it is, it's a pin that would be a bitch and a half to reach with the little baby bridgeyport series 1
Apply the concept to whatever you want a round somewhat precise hole in
JR4X said:
What did you use for a cutting head?
Click to expand...
1/4" square HSS
 
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here have another couple pics of boring the lower pin boss holes for sleeves
note the 302 ford head clamped to the bottom for some extra stabilizing mass
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Is it just me or did you bore it crooked to the plane of the plate?

either way nice work getting it done with what you have
 
Twankie said:
Is it just me or did you bore it crooked to the plane of the plate?
Click to expand...

I didn't really look too close haha
just sorta lined it up in the existing holes by eye and didn't think to look at the whole length of the bar
rofl might have to put some rod stock in it and see if it really is as fucked as it looks in the picture

either way, bit crooked's way better than the slopped out garbage that it was before
 
[486 said:
;n267565]

either way, bit crooked's way better than the slopped out garbage that it was before
Click to expand...

Well, yeah, until you tilt down and it twists your rod end off.

It really does look way jacked in the pic.

Good practice run, something about "I don't always get a nice surface finish, but when I do, the rod was crooked to start with":lmao:
 
Panzer did that boom in his bridgeport, with the boom supported on cribbing and old car rims or something.

I always wondered how you ensure both bores are lined up when machining each side individually.
 
Has anyone tried using the hougan style annular cutter bits to line bore with? Been wondering how close to size do they drill ?
 
70 tp said:
Has anyone tried using the hougan style annular cutter bits to line bore with? Been wondering how close to size do they drill ?
Click to expand...

I had a handful of longer ones for sleeving box tubing, etc. While not line boring, I always found the OD to be accurate.
 
I like the concept. And close is close when needed. Its all in the fixturing, and this gives me a good idea for if my T190 Qtach plate is trashed beyond replaceable parts only when I go to rebuild the lower plate stuff later this month. 9000 hrs, damn... And I thought my little used machine had been doing some stuff with just hitting 4500 hours, merely half of your machine's use.

70 tp said:
Has anyone tried using the hougan style annular cutter bits to line bore with? Been wondering how close to size do they drill ?
Click to expand...

I've been involved once where we used a mag drill bit, a Vblock, and a big angle plate all fastened together to run a large annular cutter through then end of a D60 spindle bore to open it up for larger shafts. It worked rather well actually. Much better than the old holesaw on the pilot arbor and also way cheaper than the giant stepped end mills.

I'm kinda hoping to use this as a backup idea for my above referenced Bobcat project. We shall see.
 
all I can say is it's dirt simple
just get out there and do it, both of you are way overqualified

One thing that isn't immediately obvious is that you need to tune the rake angle of the tool to avoid bending the bar.
Too positive and it'll bite, pull in, let go, bite, pull in, let go, too negative and it'll sing just the same from pushing the bar off center

the ideal rake angle of the tool also changes with the feed per revolution and depth of cut, so you got a pretty wide range of acceptable angles just by varying how fast you feed in
 
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