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Dez Loc Buggy

Grronk

Grronk

Somewhat Retarded
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
220
Messages
415
Loc
SLO County, CA
Been piling up parts and pieces for this build for a while, finally taking some bigger steps like glueing tube together over the weekend so that means I can get the build thread started :beer:

Current plan is a tube buggy on tons, 42s, 5.3 ls, TH400, atlas, with 4 seats. I'm 6'4" so lots of the chassis kits and off the shelf chassis either don't fit me or don't look good to me. So I decided to do the easy thing and design and build one completely myself :flipoff2:

Cleaning up a SD60 sucks hard, but it's worth it
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Weaver Fab knuckles

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Rebuilt an LS a buddy sold me for cheap
 
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My house came with an old box truck that was abandoned on the property, I yoinked the rear axle from it and cleaned it up and pit disc brakes on it, Dana 70U with the smooth bottom.
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Built a fixture table, then fixture table axle stands to hold the axles at 120" WB
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Everything set out on the table (mock up block)
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white-rhino said:
I like it. I'm sure you can get the front carrier in and out but it doesn't look like it in the pics.
Click to expand...
My pics don't show it well, but there is a removable plate, the carrier will go in and out from the underside of the skid

motobilt.com

Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Truss / Steering Ram Mount 05-up

This kit was designed specifically for the 2005 and up Ford F-250 and F350 Dana 60 front axles. The truss spans the length of the axle, and includes in an integrated hydraulic ram mount for full hydraulic steering. The design is meant for a 2.5 inch-2.75 inch double ended ram.
motobilt.com
 
so axles are actually set at full bump? or will they go down a couple inches. totaly love the set by step approach

thanks for doing that.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
so axles are actually set at full bump? or will they go down a couple inches. totaly love the set by step approach

thanks for doing that.
Click to expand...
Depending on how everything else ends up occupying space I'm hoping for it to be at full bump where it is at
 
I'm wanting to fit more than just a child in the back seat, so the rear upper links are going to be fighting the rear seat for the same area, so we will see how that effects the bump height at the end. Might just have to limit it to my child size buddies in the back only if it come to it (you know who you are:flipoff2:)
 
Grronk said:
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It would be pretty slick to use Ol' Yellas old steering wheel me thinks:smokin:
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Joe's Racing makes a 3-bolt splined quick disconnect that can be used to make this steering wheel work. Slight modification required on the steering wheel hub, but itsn't too bad. I used one on my last buggy and it was sweet.
 
Grronk said:
I'm wanting to fit more than just a child in the back seat, so the rear upper links are going to be fighting the rear seat for the same area, so we will see how that effects the bump height at the end. Might just have to limit it to my child size buddies in the back only if it come to it (you know who you are:flipoff2:)
Click to expand...

triangulate the lowers at the chassis and make the uppers straight to clear the back seat.
 
Not the actual hood I am planning on using, but it would fit pretty perfect :beer:

Wanting to run a FJ40 hood to keep some yota in this build, if you have one around SLO county CA that you'd get rid of let me know

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Been busy with non buggy stuff for a while, but finally got a solid day if work in. Got the rear link mounts cut out and tacked in, and some supports put in as well. Drilling out plasma cut holes absolutely fucks my drill bits

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I kicked the upper bars if the x back for extra head room for my big fuckin head/helmet
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Windshield bars
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I don't know what size holes you are cutting and drilling, but if I need precise holes I will pierce a small hole for location then drill to size.
It is a lot easier to drill than cleaning up a 3/4" plasma cut hole.
 
72Pstroke said:
I don't know what size holes you are cutting and drilling, but if I need precise holes I will pierce a small hole for location then drill to size.
It is a lot easier to drill than cleaning up a 3/4" plasma cut hole.
Click to expand...
That's what I'm going to try next, I'm cutting to .73" due to what I found in a quick googling, but it's not great
 
In my software, I can program a pierce only. That gives me a good location, and a .060ish hole.
 
Have you got a square-on side shot? Looks like the link angles converge really aggressively?
 
Grronk said:
Finally got back to some buggy work today, got the rear links mocked up, pics are not at ride height

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This pic makes the uppers look straight but theyre not

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Satchell link.

What did your roll center height come out to?
 
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