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Dana 60s are confusing

Pender1

Chevy user
Joined
May 26, 2020
Member Number
1494
Messages
25
Loc
SC
So I'm debating between building a 60 or a 14 bolt front axle for my Blazer, either way I need the steering parts off of a 60 and I'm finding a lot of conflicting info out there on what's what. I'll try to list what I've found here, but I'm sure some of it is wrong and I'm hoping someone will help me out with some clarification and correction. And no, I don't need all this beef out front in my current configuration, but my 10 bolt isn't going to last with an LS and 37s plus other future plans and I don't want to have to upgrade twice, so I'm taking the "go big or go home" approach. It also sounds like the much simpler way to put either of these in a GM is to switch to a driver-drop transfer case, but that's a whole different discussion.



SD 60 are in 99-04 superdutys (F250-F550?). 30 spline inner, 35 spline outer. Good axles in general. Can be made to accept 35 spline stuff, and maybe 40 spline, with extensive modifications.



05+(not sure what the upper year is or if the current ones are identical) there is a SD and a SUPER? All 35 spline inner and outer but at least 2 difference in knuckle sizes and 2 different u-joint sizes. SD is in the 250-350, Super is in the 450 and 550 but could be had in the 350 somehow.

Super 60s have 1550 u-joints and SD have 1480. I think the Super 60 has a better turn radius because of the different joints and geometry. Same tube diameter but Super is thicker wall.

I'm not sure if the R&P and lockers are interchangeable or not, but is sounds like the super 60 uses a larger R&P from the factory. Not sure how this affects the choices in ratios and lockers.

They both seem to suck for high steer kits, not sure about crossover steering. I want hydro assist, not full hydro.


Am I headed in the right direction here? I really feel like a Super sounds like the better donor for a 14 bolt, but the 05+ SD sounds like it'd be just fine in most rigs in its stock form. 99-04 Sounds like it really doesn't have many downsides other than the 05+ being stronger, so it'd be a good budget friendly option maybe? And anything is better than my 10 bolt, just don't buy a Dana 50 (which I'm not even sure what those were in).
 
If your thinking of building a 14 bolt front just make it pass drop and keep your current driveline. Why reinvent the wheel?
 
Alex123456 said:
Why not a Chevy D60? Seems easier.
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I like the idea of going to unit bearings. Some people don't like them, I do. GM dana 60's are rare and are also $1200+ for a rusted out piece of junk that needs a full rebuild in my area. I can get SD takeouts for <$700 ready to run.
 
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SLOWPOKE693 said:
If your thinking of building a 14 bolt front just make it pass drop and keep your current driveline. Why reinvent the wheel?
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I haven't pulled the measurements yet, but everyone is warning me against it because of the pinion offset and oil pan clearance. Either way I need steering outers which was the point of this post.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
If your thinking of building a 14 bolt front just make it pass drop and keep your current driveline. Why reinvent the wheel?
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Switch to driver drop use a ford Dana 60. High pinion is awesome and will save your driveshaft.
 
Only problem with ford sd60 is the stupid metric bolt pattern unless you use a sterling rear to match
 
Pender1 said:
I like the idea of going to unit bearings. Some people don't like them, I do. GM dana 60's are rare and are also $1200+ for a rusted out piece of junk that needs a full rebuild in my area. I can get SD takeouts for <$700 ready to run.
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Sure a sd d60 is cheaper. But then comes the rest of the cost + fabrication.

That $500 d60 will cost you 2k more than rebuilding a bolt in gmkp axle will. Now you're changing tcase, exhaust, crossmember, drive lines, steering and suspension.

Where a kp can be a literaly bolt in deal.


The ad axle will be 3.73, what gears do you have now? Gona regear something to the tune of $1000 also.
 
total newb said:
Sure a sd d60 is cheaper. But then comes the rest of the cost + fabrication.

That $500 d60 will cost you 2k more than rebuilding a bolt in gmkp axle will. Now you're changing tcase, exhaust, crossmember, drive lines, steering and suspension.

Where a kp can be a literaly bolt in deal.


The ad axle will be 3.73, what gears do you have now? Gona regear something to the tune of $1000 also.
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I'm doing all of that anyways. I'm halfway through an LS swap right now.

I've got 4.10s right now which SD60s can be had in. If not, I do my own regearing so all it costs me is gears and a install kit.
 
Pender1 said:
I'm on leafs for now, wouldn't mind staying on them but I've been eyeballing a radius arm setup lately.
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None of the unit bearing axles will bolt in to your leaf setup and the diff may be too offset to do even with outboarding of your springs depending on the axle year. You need to decide of what kind of suspension you will start off with before you can go any farther. FWIW Boyce is selling rebuilt Chev 60's for 2900. Crate surplus used to go for 1800 but I would guess that supply has dried up years ago. Once you decide on suspension type your quest will be a lot easier.
 
Pender1 said:
I'm on leafs for now, wouldn't mind staying on them but I've been eyeballing a radius arm setup lately.
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You will definitely need to go drivers drop if you go radius link suspension. Here's a pick of a 14 bolt housing in relation to a 60 pass drop on a blazer I'm putting the 14 bolt under. I've decided to go drivers drop. If you notice pass side w/14 you have no tube to weld your links to unless you want to kick out your wms substantially. Plus s60 knuckles ,hubs will hang out wider than kp gm I believe.

A gm 60 will be your easiest cheapest route, you just have to pony up the dough upfront and it will bolt rite up with basically minimal effort.

Ive chosen the 14 front because extra pinion bearing support, ease of gear/locker change out and 05+ sd 60 parts= fkn bullet proof

photo18537.jpg
 
How about a Jana76 kit to stuff a Dana70 carrier and gears in a 60? Easier than a 14b steer for the same strength?
 
If you are sticking with leaf springs then I would swap in a matching set of '99-04 Stupor Dudy axles relocating the frame-side spring brackets as necessary. Maybe run a driver drop 241 transfer case behind the 465.

Several companies supply high steer arms for the SD knuckles (Weaver Fab, . . . )
 
Why does everyone feel the need to chime in on what their interpretation of what's easiest?

$2900 for a KP60 :laughing: then you throw away the knuckles, steering arms, stub shafts, locking hubs, gears and carrier?

I got my housing for $100, sold the knuckles for $200, and it still cost way too much to build up.

Get an 05+ 60, swap to driver tcase, use radius arms, add high steer if needed, seems like a good plan.
 
Eric said:
If you are sticking with leaf springs then I would swap in a matching set of '99-04 Stupor Dudy axles relocating the frame-side spring brackets as necessary. Maybe run a driver drop 241 transfer case behind the 465.

Several companies supply high steer arms for the SD knuckles (Weaver Fab, . . . )
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Spring spacing is stupid wide, like 37" vs 31.5" gm
 
Little insight from my inexperience JK owner. I have a 95 ball joint ford f350 dana 60 front and chevy 2500 avalanche 14 bolt out back. Both are 8x6.5.

I like making my life easy done the road by wasting a bunch of time right now. I didnt like the fact I would have different lug nuts front and rear.

I also wasted money on wheel spacers in the rear to get the axles to match width.

I spent money on a full rebuild for the front and also had to upgrade stub shafts and slugs.

I wasted a ton of money to have a weaker axle that doesn't steer enough

clit notes

Just buy matching axles out of 2012+ f250/350(i dont know the year they changed to the better stuff).

Cheaper, More steer angle, matching bolt pattern/lug nuts, stronger, after market is coming around, 1000s in the junk yard... ect
 
I would say run the 05 and later axle with some sort of radius arm setup. Parts for that axle are availible, and it is already plenty strong in stock form, and if you do break it parts are availible. As for the bolt pattern you have three options. You can swap rear axles to a sterling 10.5, which gives you disk breaks and they have a factory e-locker which can be had for cheap. The downside is you also need to find a rear axle and swap the 14 bolt. You can redrill the unit bearings, but when they go out you will have to redrill the new pair. And you could also use wheel spacer adapters on the back to convert the back to 8×170. A 14 bolt front is cool, but a whole lot of work and extra money compared to the super duty axle which will be plenty strong.
 
ConwayMuddy said:
Didn't see it mentioned, but for the o.p. I believe 15 was when the ford 60s got upgraded again. Good luck
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The '17+ axles are also different (The ring and pinion definitely is different, not sure what else changed). The only real difference with the ~'14/'15 (not sure exactly what the year break was) is that the F250 and F350 axles finally got the 1550 U-joint axle shafts that were previously only in Super 60s. There are some small differences primarily in the brakes and knuckles, but for our purposes, '05-'16 are all the same (the 1550 axle shafts are cheap and interchange with the earlier '05+ axles). The three primary Super Duty Dana 60 variations are the '99-'04, '05-'16, and '17+. The Super 60 10" gear set and 1550 axle shafts can be retrofitted to the non-Super 60, so the only real benefits to finding an actual Super 60 is the stronger housing (4" dia. .5" wall tubes I believe), larger ball joint separation, and additional width if that is what you are after.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
The '17+ axles are also different (The ring and pinion definitely is different, not sure what else changed). The only real difference with the ~'14/'15 (not sure exactly what the year break was) is that the F250 and F350 axles finally got the 1550 U-joint axle shafts that were previously only in Super 60s. There are some small differences primarily in the brakes and knuckles, but for our purposes, '05-'16 are all the same (the 1550 axle shafts are cheap and interchange with the earlier '05+ axles). The three primary Super Duty Dana 60 variations are the '99-'04, '05-'16, and '17+. The Super 60 10" gear set and 1550 axle shafts can be retrofitted to the non-Super 60, so the only real benefits to finding an actual Super 60 is the stronger housing (4" dia. .5" wall tubes I believe), larger ball joint separation, and additional width if that is what you are after.
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So I guess 05+ should really be 05-16 now. End of an era! :laughing:​​​​​​

I know they went to Mxxx metric shit in 17, I'd guess the knuckles and outters stayed the same.

More info on the rear axle would be cool to know also. I think they have a few different options depending on F250 or F350 and gas or diesel.


Side note, when is someone going to make deeper than 5.38s for a HP 60? All these Jk's on 40s would greatly benefit from ~6.17s
 
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