Crossover help

[slow600]

Swapped a 60 w 52s into my 78 power wagon. really want to convert to crossover steering but a non negotiable crossmember is in the way (4bt w liquid mounts). I can move the box forward, but drag link at pass side is still an issue. My only Idea is to run a bent drag link similar to the far from stock kit. What is child’s play for most, is a week long internal process for me...so I thought I’d ask. Ideas or anything I am missing?

 

[Lil'John]

Maybe move the steering box back toward the cab about 3-4" then get a 4"+ drop pitman arm?

That far forward of the axle center line looks like it would cause steering issues.

 

[slow600]

ill get some better pics. in ones shown the box is bolted in the "stock" 2wd drive position not in the 4wd position with adapter plate. i also did not pop off pitman arm and rotate yet, updated visuals might help.

 

[TRINDU]

Would sliding the box forward, flat-ish pitman, and a high steer arm for just the draglink clear everything?

 

[slow600]

not with straight drag link, no. i have a high steer arm coming, might mock up a cardboard one or similar this weekend along with some dowel rod to show the clearance issue.

 

[Lil'John]

Here is a bad image for me to comment against:

1) I've seen a couple versions of steering arms. In my picture above, I've seen some that put everything way out equal with the stock steering arms(#1 post). But others are "short" at #2 post. If you have style #1, it may make number of changes needed less.

2) Is there any possibility of shifting your cross member back? In my picture, I show "swapping" the front half behind the other. Yes, lots of work.

3) If not shifting the cross member, what about "notching" it similar to the blue triangle? Again, lots of work doing it all the way across.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I would have already chopped the front half of that crossmember off and move it behind the second piece, or moved the entire thing back in one shot to get the clearance needed for steering.

Bent drag links are meh.....

 

[slow600]

Im really avoiding moving crossmember just because amount of work with the engine side of the mounts. The holes mid way back on the motor would require a much more complex bracket. Current ones at front of motor are very simple and easily in my wheel house of simple fab. The crossmember was made by a previous owner, I’ve already cleaned the back side to clear the oil pan.

no comments on a bent drag link, Is this a big no no? 1.5 .250 wall dorm is what I was planning on using.

 

[TrailTamer]

Move front axle forward about 1” or 2”

scrap the crossmember & make new frame side mounts to hold the engine. Build cross over steering linkages, then make the new & REMOVABLE crossmember to work with the axle placement & steering linkages.

Oh and May want to redo your brake lines

 

[rockyota83]

I would have already chopped the front half of that crossmember off and move it behind the second piece, or moved the entire thing back in one shot to get the clearance needed for steering.

Bent drag links are meh.....

this 100%, ive done it before

 

[rockyota83]

no comments on a bent drag link, Is this a big no no? 1.5 .250 wall dorm is what I was planning on using.

ive had zero problems with my 1990 dodge cummins with a bent drag link

 

[slow600]

Well, asked for help and took some advise...still had to run a bent link. Moved box forward 2 inches, max I could do without body/rad mount mods. Also tried flipping the springs around which moved axle 4 inches, it looked hella terrible and unnecessary for a homestead rig on 33s.

had a shop bend the .250 wall dom and wrapped up the install. Does kinda suck to remove one end to center steering wheel, but so far no one has died on my test drives.