What's new
By:
Filters

Critique this.

HELL BOUND

HELL BOUND

Well-known member
Joined
May 27, 2020
Member Number
1574
Messages
481
118 wheelbase. 51 to the outside of the a piller. Im not sure if my hood tubes are too long. Belly look to low ? Its 12 inches deep. Not long enough? Tell me your thoughts. Was figuring a 36 inch bench in the back. Ls turbo 400 atlas 2 speed is the plan for drive train. Sorry about the upside down numbers cant figure out how to flip them around.
Click image for larger version Name: 20210110_144626.jpg Views: 0 Size: 509.7 KB ID: 265973
Click image for larger version Name: 20210110_144352.jpg Views: 0 Size: 449.3 KB ID: 265974
Click image for larger version Name: 20210110_145106.jpg Views: 0 Size: 496.9 KB ID: 265975
Click image for larger version Name: 20210110_144514.jpg Views: 0 Size: 489.5 KB ID: 265976
 
I believe the Miller chassis has a 13" deep subframe. Their reasoning was to keep the trans and t-case low so they could have a flat floor. I dont think 12" is excessive.
 
I don't know your usage, but as mentioned on the roll cage failures sticky, it needs a main hoop rear diagonal support ( B pillar kicker).
 
Will the diagonal bar from the windshield frame to the floor get in the way of the pedals on the drivers side?
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I believe the Miller chassis has a 13" deep subframe. Their reasoning was to keep the trans and t-case low so they could have a flat floor. I dont think 12" is excessive.
Click to expand...

Good to know. I dont mind having a little tunnel but with seats close together I know ill run out of space quickly.
 
Blase said:
Will the diagonal bar from the windshield frame to the floor get in the way of the pedals on the drivers side?
Click to expand...

It might hadn't thought about that. I figured I'd be sitting far enough back that it wouldn't be in the way. I was really just trying not to have dead tubes on the windshield
 
Stephen Wilson said:
I don't know your usage, but as mentioned on the roll cage failures sticky, it needs a main hoop rear diagonal support ( B pillar kicker).
Click to expand...

I didn't add the little gusset tubes if thats what you are referring too. Also will add a tube from c pillar down but want to see where the back seat will end up first.
 
So another question for those of you with rear steer. How wide is your lower tube work or where the rear seat will be ? I'm pretty sure that I have the lower seat tubes at 30 inches wide. Does that sound un reasonable for rear steer?
 
HELL BOUND said:
I didn't add the little gusset tubes if thats what you are referring too. Also will add a tube from c pillar down but want to see where the back seat will end up first.
Click to expand...

No, I'm not talking about gussets. What are you calling the C pillar ? I mean a diagonal from the top of the main hoop, and of the same size material, rearward and down to the frame rail or a strong point.
 
it looks narrow to me. if its a trail wheeler go a little wide to give yourself some elbow room. the natural position to run a shifter puts your elbow in the passengers ribs. design suframe for suspension geo you want, buy seats, build chassis around seats. connect the dots

HELL BOUND said:
It might hadn't thought about that. I figured I'd be sitting far enough back that it wouldn't be in the way. I was really just trying not to have dead tubes on the windshield
Click to expand...

you could do something like randy does on his bombers.

B13_front_side_1024x1024.jpg
 
mobil1syn said:
it looks narrow to me. if its a trail wheeler go a little wide to give yourself some elbow room. the natural position to run a shifter puts your elbow in the passengers ribs. design suframe for suspension geo you want, buy seats, build chassis around seats. connect the dots



you could do something like randy does on his bombers.

B13_front_side_1024x1024.jpg
Click to expand...

It is narrow. If I was building a 2 seat it wouldn't be any wider than 48 inches. My buggy now is wide and why the room is nice I want away from that. The jhf chassis are the same width for comparison. And I'd probably run the shifter up on the dash to keep elbows to my self. The biggest difference is I think the jhf chassis are set up for 110 wheelbase. Im 115 now and don't see a few inches hurting anything. Probably will put the drive train on the table and build the sub frame first.
2018-02-08-10.52.11-scaled.jpg
 
I suggest getting a Goat Built subframe which is really just a 4 link bracket kit. Since the suspension geometry is going to be close to what you want to build.
You can still make the chassis whatever size you want. I made my chassis wider but the upper control arms are 37.5" apart so you could easily keep a 48" chassis width.
Some people look at the cost and think, its just some brackets, I can make them myself for cheaper. The value is in the high strength metal which is stronger and lighter than what most people build with. By the time you pay for plate, laser, and forming, to make the same thing, I don't see how someone could save money unless they did it for a living and had all the equipment. Add in the total cost of ownership for the equipment and the savings get smaller. I assume GB is able to keep the price down by buying plate in bulk and having more efficient production runs of multiple parts so little is wasted.
The value is also in the design, again stronger and lighter, but also the link geometry is proven. You don't have to worry about lost time and cost making changes because something was off. Spend the time on something else. Instead of spending hours calculating suspension geometry for a one off with unknown weights and dimensions, us that time to build a better, stronger, more capable chassis, or figure out how to rebuild a transmission, motor, diff, transfer case or shock tuning or one of the many other things people pay others to do because they don't have the time to learn how to do it.

1130-IBEX-Kit-Assembled-2.jpg


1130.jpg


1130-DIMS.jpg
 
Last edited:
Relocate the orange bars that would block your pedal area.
Add some triangulation for a rear shock mounts.
If you are going to run bumps in the front, make sure you have something to attach them to. If the lower tubes are too close to the engine, the bumps are going to have a lot of leverage being out wider.
Reconsider how close the floor to roof is in the rear. Everyone wants unlimited up travel and this puts passengers heads into the bars. I don't know how old your kids are or how long you plan on wheeling with them. Some might build a "4 seater" just to appease the wife, good well knowing they are going to rip that rear bench out and throw in a cooler full of beer and leave the kids in the dust.
 
Last edited:
Needs more aggressive tires.

:flipoff2:
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Relocate the orange bars that would block your pedal area.
Add some triangulation for a rear shock mounts.
If you are going to run bumps in the front, make sure you have something to attach them to. If the lower tubes are too close to the engine, the bumps are going to have a lot of leverage being out wider.
Reconsider how close the floor to roof is in the rear. Everyone wants unlimited up travel and this puts passengers heads into the bars. I don't know how old your kids are or how long you plan on wheeling with them. Some might build a "4 seater" just to appease the wife, good well knowing they are going to rip that rear bench out and throw in a cooler full of beer and leave the kids in the dust.
Click to expand...

The whole reason is to bring my boys along. They are little now but I'd like it to last until they are driving age and can have rigs of there own. Manly just playing with the cad program for now. I think the best solution is to put drivetrain on the table and start with the subframe and seats and make it as tight as I dare. Gotta find a turbo 400 or 4l80e to make this happen. My whole goal is to have a 4 seater that can keep up with the smaller rigs. Might not be as achievable as I think but I'm gonna try.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh