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Crazy4ih’s Scout 64 Scout 80

Like this. How the hell would you ever hook up a driveshaft?
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crazy4ih said:
Previous owner apparently decided to play hide and seek with the driver front body mount. Sheet metal, riveted in, covered in body filler, covered by bed-liner, covered by some type of tar membrane waterproofing.
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Uh, my, uh, fix. uh, may resemble that on my 80 :homer:

I didn't layer sticky stuff on top, but I definitely welded a floor pan over my new bracing and bolt that I welded in from the top.:laughing:
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Uh, my, uh, fix. uh, may resemble that on my 80 :homer:

I didn't layer sticky stuff on top, but I definitely welded a floor pan over my new bracing and bolt that I welded in from the top.:laughing:
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At least you welded it. This was basically silicon seam sealer and rivets, then covered it with all the rest.
 
crazy4ih said:
lets not forget 3/4-1' of bondo in the rockers and bondo'd over body seams as well.
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Mine has the same thing, nearly an inch of bondo in places and all the body seams in the rear were covered over. It just cracked through and looked terrible. Mine also had a core support from two other scouts that were welded together and fell off when I took the fenders off...
 
Bmxbry9 said:
What are the details on the s10?
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It's a 2002 four door IFS 4x4 originally. I bought it specifically for this purpose and I got it stock from a new Marine who was a week away from boot camp for $1800. It took a couple of years intermittently to get it to this point. It's been a struggle finding time and $ for the parts.
 
crazy4ih said:
It’s a friends rig we have been working on for a while. Stock v6, 4l60E, NP205, NWF Ecobox, 05+ Superduty axles, radius arms with ORI’s in front, leafs in back, full hydro steering, e-lockers, 41.5” Pit Bull Rockers, ~132” wheelbase, chopped bed. Almost done. Working on the small stuff (lights, electrical, fluids, PS and Trans coolers, etc..) to get it finished and running.


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gozuki said:
It's a 2002 four door IFS 4x4 originally. I bought it specifically for this purpose and I got it stock from a new Marine who was a week away from boot camp for $1800. It took a couple of years intermittently to get it to this point. It's been a struggle finding time and $ for the parts.
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Awesome deal! I've always liked that body style of those
 
slow progress but now that the time changed hopefully more will get done. We have been working on Gozuki's S-10 to try to finish that up.

I have the frame out from under the Scout. I'm working on getting the brackets, etc. all cut off and ground down. Motor mounts from Anything Scout should be here soon hopefully, its been over a month since I ordered them and when I last talked to them Friday they said they should have them out that day or Monday. But still no tracking so who knows. Reverse shackle kit arrived yesterday from IHPA and ordered the 63" Spring Swap kit from Ruff Stuff. I am not using 63" springs but i like that the spring hanger is designed to be frenched into the frame.

Things I still need to buy: LS wiring harness if i dont cut down the one I have (undecided) may run Holley system, 4L80E torque convertor, wiring harness for the Scout (undecided what brand maybe Kwikwire), radiator, fan, transmission shifter, ecobox shifter (maybe triple stick, I have a dual stick setup on the 205 already). Probably a lot more that I am not remembering. But I have plenty to keep me busy for a while.
 
Oh, bought this also. Figured it would be easier for mock up than having to pull the motor in and out. Probably didn’t need it but whatever.

Also check out this chunk of bondo from the driver side rocker. Lol

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crazy4ih said:
slow progress but now that the time changed hopefully more will get done. We have been working on Gozuki's S-10 to try to finish that up.

I have the frame out from under the Scout. I'm working on getting the brackets, etc. all cut off and ground down. Motor mounts from Anything Scout should be here soon hopefully, its been over a month since I ordered them and when I last talked to them Friday they said they should have them out that day or Monday. But still no tracking so who knows. Reverse shackle kit arrived yesterday from IHPA and ordered the 63" Spring Swap kit from Ruff Stuff. I am not using 63" springs but i like that the spring hanger is designed to be frenched into the frame.

Things I still need to buy: LS wiring harness if i dont cut down the one I have (undecided) may run Holley system, 4L80E torque convertor, wiring harness for the Scout (undecided what brand maybe Kwikwire), radiator, fan, transmission shifter, ecobox shifter (maybe triple stick, I have a dual stick setup on the 205 already). Probably a lot more that I am not remembering. But I have plenty to keep me busy for a while.
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Cutting down the harness is not too hard (as long as you have the entire harness). The guy at LT1 swaps has the pinout sheets as well as a youtube series of him setting up a 5.3 harness. He also does PCM programming to deactivate anti theft, but I used 150 tunes since they also give the engine a mild tune.
www.lt1swap.com

LT1 Swap

www.lt1swap.com
 
LScout800 said:
Cutting down the harness is not too hard (as long as you have the entire harness). The guy at LT1 swaps has the pinout sheets as well as a youtube series of him setting up a 5.3 harness. He also does PCM programming to deactivate anti theft, but I used 150 tunes since they also give the engine a mild tune.
www.lt1swap.com

LT1 Swap

www.lt1swap.com
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After fucking around for 2 years on a stock harness that's still got two potentially bad circuits in it even after changing out the plugs and first 6" of wiring on both (front bank 1 knock sensor and bank 1 02.) I bought one of the China harnesses. Original harness was an 03/04.

RADHLBNIU Engine Standalone Wiring Harness T56 DBW Compatible with 2003-2007 LS Vortec Drive by Wire W/T56 4.8 5.3 6.0L Amazon.ca

I went T56 harness as I'm running nv4500. And may run a revwrse manual 4L80.
 
Winchested said:
After fucking around for 2 years on a stock harness that's still got two potentially bad circuits in it even after changing out the plugs and first 6" of wiring on both (front bank 1 knock sensor and bank 1 02.) I bought one of the China harnesses. Original harness was an 03/04.

RADHLBNIU Engine Standalone Wiring Harness T56 DBW Compatible with 2003-2007 LS Vortec Drive by Wire W/T56 4.8 5.3 6.0L Amazon.ca

I went T56 harness as I'm running nv4500. And may run a revwrse manual 4L80.
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no issues with the new harness?
 
crazy4ih said:
no issues with the new harness?
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Can't tell ya sitting in the box but all the pinouts look good. Most of them seem to be hit or miss on quality.

You have to double check all the pins.
 
If you had 1” thick bondo covering galvanized corrugated siding turned into a half ass body panel, mark it off your bingo card.


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LScout800 said:
Have you considered getting the body sandblasted to remove all that crap?
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I might. I’m afraid what I’ll find. But it can’t get much worse than this. Looking at the rear quarter it looks like there is another patch job they did which is larger than this one. Boat siding the Scout is looking like a better and better option.


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I got the frame back under the tub for now to mock up the engine. I need some opinions on engine placement. I only have the Anything Scout engine mounts clamped to the frame for now until I can verify that the engine will work in this location or if I need to move it back some.

Currently I have about 18.5” from the front of the mock up block to the front crossmember. The front of the crank pulley will basically be 12.85” from the crossmember. The engine mounts are just about to the part of the frame to where if I move them back anymore, they will hit the downward slip where the frame dips toward the rockers. Take a look at the pics and tell me what you think.

I also bought a RS kit from IHPA and rear leaf spring mounts and perches from Ruff Stuff. So hopefully soon I’ll start mocking up the axles. Planning on 54” S-10 stock leafs in the back and I think 2” CJ lift springs up front since I have them in hand. I’m trying not to spend much on the suspension until I can afford to go to 1-tons in the next iteration of the build.

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I did a little more mockup and measuring. I bolted the front fenders and grill into place to see how much clearance I would have for the radiator and fan setup. I dont have either of those yet but it looks like i will have about 9" from the end of the water pump pully to the back of the grill. Since I am not running the inner fenders, i think that should be plenty of room for the fan/radiator. also started mocking up the RS kit and it is looking like I should have about a 105-108" wheel base all said and done. I have a set of LS long tube headers but it looks like I am going to need to run center dump manifold or headers. I could probably make the long tube headers work but would probably need a 2" body lift plus trimming on the passenger and driver footwell.


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crazy4ih said:
I did a little more mockup and measuring. I bolted the front fenders and grill into place to see how much clearance I would have for the radiator and fan setup. I dont have either of those yet but it looks like i will have about 9" from the end of the water pump pully to the back of the grill. Since I am not running the inner fenders, i think that should be plenty of room for the fan/radiator. also started mocking up the RS kit and it is looking like I should have about a 105-108" wheel base all said and done. I have a set of LS long tube headers but it looks like I am going to need to run center dump manifold or headers. I could probably make the long tube headers work but would probably need a 2" body lift plus trimming on the passenger and driver footwell.


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Looking good. I have to cut my front hangers off next week to start the conversion to gm 47" springs myself.

You think you'll actually be able to run them long tubes?

The Scout frame is wider than the SII frame by a bit but I would have never fit a 2.5" pipe past the NP205.
 
I don’t think it’s worth the headache to make the long tubes work. 1. They are right up against the frame rails. 2 possible interference with front driveshaft, 3. Would need to clearance the floor or run bigger body lift, 4. The o2 sensor bung is right against the frame rail on the passenger side.

I have some rear dump stock manifolds from a truck but they hit the body also. So probably going to run center dump headers or manifold.
 
crazy4ih said:
I don’t think it’s worth the headache to make the long tubes work. 1. They are right up against the frame rails. 2 possible interference with front driveshaft, 3. Would need to clearance the floor or run bigger body lift, 4. The o2 sensor bung is right against the frame rail on the passenger side.

I have some rear dump stock manifolds from a truck but they hit the body also. So probably going to run center dump headers or manifold.
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I used f body manifolds but pass side was a pain as I had to route it 150 degrees forward off the Mani to go under the oil pan. Center dumps would be perfect.
 
Finally got off my lazy ass and got some work done, well, made some progress anyways. Nothing is complete and other than the engine mounts everything is just tacked in for now. We got the 5.3 in place on the Anything Scout motor mounts. I am not 100% sure i would buy them again. Getting the engine to sit right took a bit of effort and coaxing to get all the bolt holes to line up right. We had to make sure all the mount bolts were loose enough that we had sufficient play so we could get everything seated, then proceeded to tighten it all up. Also started on the IHPA reverse shackle install. Pretty straight forward. I'm using CJ 2.5" lift springs up front which are just marginally shorter than GM springs. In the back I have some S10 leaf springs. Pushing the rear shackle mount as far back as I can get it and going to french the front leaf spring hanger into the frame. Still using the offset Wagoneer D44 for the rear since I have it. I had bought an Artec rear truss specifically designed for that axle, but i cant use. It interferes with the stock location of the spring perches, so maybe it was designed to be used with a 4 link or out boarded rear leaf hangers.

No progress on body work, but I did also pick up a half cab in great condition. i had made some supports with casters that i welded to the frame so I could easily move the frame/body around, but I caught a seam in the cement and popped the tack while moving everything into the garage and the frame/tub flopped over and full top came crashing off the body (it wasn't secured except by some quick clamps). All the windows in the top popped out since the seals were so dry/crusty but luckily none of the glass broke. When I got to building the cage, I want to try to build it so I can run either top. Maybe have some tubes that are removeable that can separate the front and back parts of the cage. Still trying to figure that out.

Once everything is tacked in good to go, i'll take the body back off, strip the frame and fully weld everything. Not sure when it will be but hopefully before summer. I would really like it to be a roller before the end of the year and then i can start working on wiring.


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Started working on the spring mount and shackle hangers. I think the kit I bought was a Ruff Stuff 63” spring swap kit but using shorter S10 rear leafs. The spring hanger will be drenched into the frame about 1.125”. We didn’t get around to tacking anything in yet. Still have some work to do to make sure we install them square. Going ti be using Ruff stuff offset perches to move the rear axle back a couple inches. Right now they are just tacked on to the axle to help us align everything.


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