cordless soldering iron

[A_G]

my butane soldering iron isnt working well.
Ive got a snap on one

i had it replaced once and now this one is out of warranty.

Im having issues with it lighting in lower temps and when the humidity is high. I have heated the tip with a small torch and sometimes it will light and heater after that but that has become a less reliable solution lately.

so im looking for a replacement

Butane is not out of the question but ive never had a battery powered soldering iron, either corded or butane thats it.

I looked at the m12 milwaukee but alot of the reviews talk about them melting after continuous use. If i chalked it up to in correct use id still haft to buy a battery and charger (134$ kit)

Does any body have suggestions?

 

[Benny]

My BIL has the m12 soldering iron. It works great, although it takes several seconds to get to temp and isn't as hot as a plug in unit. It is way more convenient.

I recommend getting the full kit. That way you have the box to keep all your solder and heat shrink with it.

 

[bgaidan]

I've been eyeballing the ryobi one - just because I already have the batteries. I also keep a 12v cigarette liter one in the rig for long wheeling trips. That's saved me ass a time or two and well worth the $8 I spent on it. I can plug it in to my jump pack and make it "cordless". Of course none of them are anywhere near as good as my wired soldering station.

 

[OHV Wildcat]

I have the m12 and a portasol. Both are great, but the m12 is a little easier to use. I only solder with the portasol when the m12 is too bulky or the angles are funky. The m12 weighs, I don’t know, 5 times what the portasol does, so sometimes you have no choice. I haven’t had any issues with either one.

I typically keep a heating end on the portasol—solder with the m12, heat shrink with the portasol. Neither of them can hold a candle to a corded bench top unit. They work great up to about 10 gauge wire.

 

[larboc]

I have the m12 and a portasol. Both are great, but the m12 is a little easier to use. I only solder with the portasol when the m12 is too bulky or the angles are funky. The m12 weighs, I don’t know, 5 times what the portasol does, so sometimes you have no choice. I haven’t had any issues with either one.

I typically keep a heating end on the portasol—solder with the m12, heat shrink with the portasol. Neither of them can hold a candle to a corded bench top unit. They work great up to about 10 gauge wire.

Seems like whenever I need to solder something outdoors it's big dumb wires in the cold so it's either an inverter or extension cord and the big 'ol veiny 80w Weller.

 

[A_G]

I have the m12 and a portasol. Both are great, but the m12 is a little easier to use. I only solder with the portasol when the m12 is too bulky or the angles are funky. The m12 weighs, I don’t know, 5 times what the portasol does, so sometimes you have no choice. I haven’t had any issues with either one.

I typically keep a heating end on the portasol—solder with the m12, heat shrink with the portasol. Neither of them can hold a candle to a corded bench top unit. They work great up to about 10 gauge wire.

the portasol is what snap on rebadges and i currently have. it worked great up until this year had it probably 3 years now

in fact here what i have, i guess they dont make it anymore
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SNAP-ON-YA...811219&hash=item3b510e11b7:g:biUAAOSwYL9fmvm4

the part number comes up portasol psl100k

 

[94toytruck]

I use a M12 and a old school Snap on YAK10 for everything.