ziptie on the shaft tells allNot in stock. Ordered from Poly Performance. So I'll get back to this in a few days. Once the new shims are in I'll set up a gopro to film the shocks in the bumps.
ziptie on the shaft tells allNot in stock. Ordered from Poly Performance. So I'll get back to this in a few days. Once the new shims are in I'll set up a gopro to film the shocks in the bumps.
is the rear stiff (zip tie test) or is the rear packing?New shims are in and its 100% better! I'm happy with the front and I'm calling it good. The rear is better but still too stiff. Maybe once I have a passenger, cooler, and tools loaded up it will be fine. I'll get a video soon and post it here. Thank you all for your help!
I hit some pretty big bumps and tried to get the suspension to work without violently bottoming it out. The front compressed almost all the way and when the rear hit the suspension didnt compress and the back tires came off the ground. This happened multiple times on different bumps. You can see how much the front rubber bumper thing on the shaft went down and the dirt on the rear shows the same thing.is the rear stiff (zip tie test) or is the rear packing?
With 8's and all bleeds open I hope it's not packing, that would bring the suck.is the rear stiff (zip tie test) or is the rear packing?
it probably is. bleed only helps/hurts in the slow speed stuff.With 8's and all bleeds open I hope it's not packing, that would bring the suck.
All 4 shocks have 10 compression 8 rebound. Fronts have a single 12 on the top of the pyramid like bdkw1 recommended. I didn't have enough to do the same to the rear but that wouldn't have helped in this situation anyways. This picture is the front stack with the 12 on top.it probably is. bleed only helps/hurts in the slow speed stuff.
is the rear a straight 12 stack?
I agree with you that its alot of information for someone that has no idea what they're doing. But I came here to benefit from the knowledge and experience of others and pretty much do exactly what they tell me to do. The front came out pretty damn good and I can feel the effect of the single .012 shim on top of the pyramid. It definitely helped with bottoming out on big stuff while still being comfortable at lower speeds. I should probably do split spring rates too but these are what was in stock and I didn't want to wait 5-6 weeks.To play devil's advocate, I find that flutter stacks can be confusing for novice tuners.
I'd go to a straight stack of 8s, and feel what that does. I believe in making big changes so you can figure out what's too much (or too little). If it's too light, then you have all the 10s and make a stack that's half 10s, half 8s.
If I was you, I'd buy a pair of 125lb/in springs for the rear, but you might be able to get where you want to be with just valving and save some time.
All 4 shocks have 10 compression 8 rebound. Fronts have a single 12 on the top of the pyramid like bdkw1 recommended. I didn't have enough to do the same to the rear but that wouldn't have helped in this situation anyways. This picture is the front stack with the 12 on top.
To play devil's advocate, I find that flutter stacks can be confusing for novice tuners.
I'd go to a straight stack of 8s, and feel what that does. I believe in making big changes so you can figure out what's too much (or too little). If it's too light, then you have all the 10s and make a stack that's half 10s, half 8s.
If I was you, I'd buy a pair of 125lb/in springs for the rear, but you might be able to get where you want to be with just valving and save some time.