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Cherry pop......up cabover

So I thought I only needed 1/4" because it looked like it was just kissing the cab. The noise was annoying enough I grabbed a 3/4" thick stall mat at a north 40 and put it in.

Well it now has 1/4" space and they hit when going over bumps :homer: not sure what's more annoying. Hopefully it won't be too bad on the highway

Iirc, it was a big deal when the super duty’s came out that most slide ins needed a lift kit to clear the cab.
 
That's the problem with these newer trucks getting deeper beds and taller cabs each generation. The older Chevy/GMC topkicks looked like the camper set on the top of the bed to clear cab.

Iirc, it was a big deal when the super duty’s came out that most slide ins needed a lift kit to clear the cab.

When I bought my last camper, it was a 97. Guy had it on a 94-02 Dodge and had a frame he built out of 2x4s on edge, with ply wood on both sides :eek: Said he needed it to clear the cab.

I took it off when I put it on my 97 Ford and it worked fine.

What's dumb is this camper is an 03, so it was built 4 years after this bed and cab were pit into production. Unless they changed something I'm not aware of between 99 and 16.

I think I'll plan to pull the stamped metal crossmember deals and add some ~1/2" plywood to the camper, then reinstall the crossmembers. The floor is a little soft in the back anyway.

Everyone loves pics, God the dually fenders are ugly on this body style :laughing:

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So the other day, I got 19.9 mpg on the lie o meter driving about 30 miles at 60 mph. Obviously I know the camper and trailer will suck that down, but when the F150 was getting 15 mpg with the camper, I thought maybe I'd still be doing decent with this. At 60-65, it's getting like 11 and further south going 70 its getting like 10.

I had a thought that maybe the gap between the cab and camper is acting like a parachute and dragging it down more than it should. I think im going to move it all the way forward before we head home and see if it's a noticeable difference.
 
This thing seems to be unhappy with me the 2nd half of the trip. Fridge stopped working, tried lpg and 12v. Used the heater the other night and it worked once than quit, lpg tank is almost full still. Then I buy a wiring harness to plug in to charge it and now I have no power to anything. But the clearance lights work :homer:

Get what you pay for at least.
 
Hopefully sliding it forward helped with MPG for you, sorry to hear about the gremlins.
 
Haven't done anything but crazy mountain driving since I slid it forward. So no idea on mileage yet.

At least I'm only like $500 into it at this point. With these stupid rv type things, I could have spent $20k and still have the same issues.
 
I've had shit luck with the propane regulator! May be worth a try/replacement. Not sure what kind of space your propane tank lives in, but usually they get pretty beat up with the vibrations. $20 for a new hose and regulator may be the fix...for the fridge and heater at least!
 
Maybe I'm over thinking it, but what regulator should I get? :laughing:

There is a bazillion different types that come up on google. Single stage, dual stage?
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This is what's in there
 
This thing seems to be unhappy with me the 2nd half of the trip. Fridge stopped working, tried lpg and 12v. Used the heater the other night and it worked once than quit, lpg tank is almost full still. Then I buy a wiring harness to plug in to charge it and now I have no power to anything. But the clearance lights work :homer:

Get what you pay for at least.
in reading this, sounds like a power issue.

Does the stove work? Is your setup just the tank, regulators and then stove? if so, that would be your most direct route to verify the regulator is good.
 
in reading this, sounds like a power issue.

Does the stove work? Is your setup just the tank, regulators and then stove? if so, that would be your most direct route to verify the regulator is good.

12v started working again, must have had a loose wire I guess.

Stove works

I thought maybe since the stove is the most simple, that it may still work with a messed up regulator, maybe a dumb assumption though.:laughing:
 
12v started working again, must have had a loose wire I guess.

Stove works

I thought maybe since the stove is the most simple, that it may still work with a messed up regulator, maybe a dumb assumption though.:laughing:
Yeah if the stove works, the main regulator is working. Everything else relies on 12v at some level
 
Used this thing a handful of times, just not using the fridge.

Went to unload it and about ripped the driver rear jack out. :homer:

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Obviously the best solution was to just move the bracket down and get some fresh holes. :laughing:

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Seems more solid. The rear Jack's have almost no wieght on them with the sleeping area over the front Jack's anyway.

Days are definitely numbered on this pos, glad I got it for basically nothing.
 
I just picked up the same model thinking it would fit in my CCSB and it is about 1” to long. Gonna try to block it up and get it forward to close the tailgate. I am replacing the propane heater with a diesel parking lot heater, I plan to use it overnight in the ski resort pkg this winter. Wanna run that thing constantly without the extra moisture.
 
I just picked up the same model thinking it would fit in my CCSB and it is about 1” to long. Gonna try to block it up and get it forward to close the tailgate. I am replacing the propane heater with a diesel parking lot heater, I plan to use it overnight in the ski resort pkg this winter. Wanna run that thing constantly without the extra moisture.

Mine is 7' it's a wierd length between short and long bed. I've only had it in a 5.5' F150 and 3 8' bed trucks.

Is there a reason you don't just pull the tailgate off?

Also curious how it will be sleeping in that cold of an environment. Even our hardsided camper was hard to keep comfortable. Like heater on and it's almost too warm, but the person (me:laughing:) sleeping by the window, would be cold on that side.

Maybe a lower, more constant heat like that diesel heater would be better.
 
Mine is 7' it's a wierd length between short and long bed. I've only had it in a 5.5' F150 and 3 8' bed trucks.

Is there a reason you don't just pull the tailgate off?

Also curious how it will be sleeping in that cold of an environment. Even our hardsided camper was hard to keep comfortable. Like heater on and it's almost too warm, but the person (me:laughing:) sleeping by the window, would be cold on that side.

Maybe a lower, more constant heat like that diesel heater would be better.
No reason on the tailgate, ii just thought I would be able to close it. I almost always have a trailer behind me, and the backup cam comes in handy.

The wife loves winter camping in a a f’n tent, so camper will be deluxe. I have some insulation I am going to cut to fit inside the canvas when it’s up, and I hope the diesel heater with be able to keep it a little more consistent, and a lot less humid, than the propane.

I am headed to the coast next weekend, crabbing season opens, and although it won’t be cold, it will be cooler than here, it was almost 80 again today :mad3:
 
No reason on the tailgate, ii just thought I would be able to close it. I almost always have a trailer behind me, and the backup cam comes in handy.

Back up camera makes sense. I kinda like the ghetto 1 foot storage I get with a 7' in an 8' bed, but in you shoes I'd just take it off. It's nice to step on the bumper to get in vs the tailgate imo.

The wife loves winter camping in a a f’n tent, so camper will be deluxe. I have some insulation I am going to cut to fit inside the canvas when it’s up, and I hope the diesel heater with be able to keep it a little more consistent, and a lot less humid, than the propane.

2" insulation board with the edges nicely taped is a pretty genius idea for winter camping.

I am headed to the coast next weekend, crabbing season opens, and although it won’t be cold, it will be cooler than here, it was almost 80 again today :mad3:

80 :eek::flipoff2:
 
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