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Can I excite 93 dodge alternator with jumper wire?

KungFooMASTA

El Stupido
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
361
Messages
1,226
Loc
17 miles West of Murdock KS
Stupid Chrysler products.

My 93 shipping crate wont charge, the computer isnt telling the alt to kick on. Usually it will within a few minutes but yesterday it would never kick on. I need to wire up an external regulator, but for now can I touch a jumper wire between the two small posts like on a GM or will I fry it?

I only drive this thing once every few months it sits at work for when I cant drive the big truck home. Honestly Im surprised it started as cold as it was. I did have it plugged in for a few hours.

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I guess you could wire it to like a toggle switch if you kept a real fuckin close eye on your voltmeter.
get one of those on-off-on ones and wire one side through an old ballast resistor, have "high" and "low" charge rates
 
[486 said:
;n318387]I guess you could wire it to like a toggle switch if you kept a real fuckin close eye on your voltmeter.
get one of those on-off-on ones and wire one side through an old ballast resistor, have "high" and "low" charge rates

On my 71 Ford it has an external regulator and the exciter wire into the cab wasn’t working so I hooked it up to my horn wire for a quick hack job it’ll do for now fix. Honk the horn once and it starts charging. Real Red Green type junk.
 
try putting 12v to the terminal with the blue and orange wires going to it in this pic

Screenshot_2021-02-20 Amazon com Chrysler nippondenso conversion voltage regulator Automotive.png
 
I just want to know if I touch to two small posts together with a jumper will it start charging or let out the majik charging smoke.

iirc they're just hooked to the brushes?
meaning one goes to power, the other is ground
one of the two is PWM controlled to get 14v instead of "unregulated all the volts"

this is going by memory of a 94ish jeep alt that I worked on years ago, someone mentioned computer controlled alt, and that one was just the computer acting like the voltage regulator...

I'll look for a diagram, surely someone's got one.
ETA: yup, the two little terminals are just connected direct to the field brushes
 
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the orange wire is 12v when you turn the key on

my engine harness got destroyed so i have one hot wire from a toggle switch on my dash that goes to the fuel solenoid on the injection pump and then that same wire jumps over to the orange wire on the alternator
 
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Don't buy a voltage regulator from a parts store, they are all universally junk. The Mopar one is expensive, but worth it in the long run. Mopar Part Number 5234625, lists for about $87.
 
[486 said:
;n318412]

iirc they're just hooked to the brushes?
meaning one goes to power, the other is ground
one of the two is PWM controlled to get 14v instead of "unregulated all the volts"

this is going by memory of a 94ish jeep alt that I worked on years ago, someone mentioned computer controlled alt, and that one was just the computer acting like the voltage regulator...

I'll look for a diagram, surely someone's got one.
ETA: yup, the two little terminals are just connected direct to the field brushes

So jumping them wont make it kick on. 10-4
 


It either started charging while I walked around from the battery with a volt meter to the time I put 12v to that post ir putting 12v to that post made it charge.


that post the orange wire is going to needs 12v to tell the alt to start charging
 
This reminds of the time we had a 200kw MG flywheel set shit the bed. Six foot diameter flywheel between a motor and generator. No exciter voltage; quick trip to a fucking Socorro New Mexico Radio Shack for a $2.00 transistor and that bitch was back on line. :smokin::smokin::smokin:
 
Don't buy a voltage regulator from a parts store, they are all universally junk. The Mopar one is expensive, but worth it in the long run. Mopar Part Number 5234625, lists for about $87.

True

Had a 1990 with the 12 valve.

Wasn't charging at all when o got it, threw a $15 napa regulator on it and it worked fine for maybe 100 miles. Decided one time to drive it to work (almost 2 hours at the time) and half way there the lights seemed extra bright. Look down and it's 18 volts :laughing: pull over and the caps to the battery were gone and battery acid was everywhere. Pulled the charge wire off and drove the rest on the battery.

Of course napa swapped the $15 regulator, but the battery was a lot more than $72 difference.
 
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