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buggy paint that wont look crap after a few months

chaplinfj60

chaplinfj60

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2020
Member Number
3057
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3,072
Loc
marshalltown iowa
good afternoon all

do i need to use clear coat or something of the sort to keep my paint from fading slash being stained from mud and such.

i am also not wanting to spend a bunch money to powder coat or send to a spray booth. just me at my house making it work.

thanks
 
paint for railcars.PNG


I dug up this story I read 11 years ago. I haven't used it, but it makes sense that any paint formulated for railcars would be pretty good for dirt, wear, UV, and weather. I'm looking into something like this for a 1962 Chevy C-20 I want to stay nice-looking but want to be able to drive down a gravel road.

If I don't go this route, I think I'm going to use the PCC line from napa, either an Acrylic Urethane or an Acrylic Enamel. I've used both in industrial settings and it seems to hold up well getting bathed in oil, corrosive, fluids, impacts, and general hard use.
 
I would go with implement paint from tractor supply or the like.
 
Steelit in grey or black is a go to for many top end builders. I’m going the grey color. It’s a urethane with stainless metallic powder. Sprayable or in cans. Can be welded over in a rush. It’s a semi matte finish so touch up hides well. TMR runs sales on it often. McMaster Carr even sells it.
 
Last time I got it, it was Steelit brand. If you call them and say it needs to be Steelit to match, they will confirm yes or no. They usually don’t give you a name but they will confirm yes or know if you give them a name.
 
next silly question, since i allready through down a bunch of the rustoluem stuff do i need to strip that off or can i paint over with either of these two products?
 
I sprayed Rustoluem implement black this weekend with a HVLP gun. Thinned with mineral spirits as per can. Dried quickly and looks good. Time will tell about the durability.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
next silly question, since i allready through down a bunch of the rustoluem stuff do i need to strip that off or can i paint over with either of these two products?
Click to expand...
Whatever you choose to recoat with, I’ve had good luck scotch-briting the surface and using a product called Flashbond 300.

https://buy.wesco.com/Janitorial-and-Facility-Maintenance/Chemicals-and-
Paint/Chemicals/Coatings/RUST-OLEUM/Adhesion-Promoter-and-Bonder-Solvent-Base-1-gal/21011/p/72359610210-1
I’ve used it over many different paint bases, many times on ag equipment that has porous castings that have been soaked with oil for decades. If you follow the instructions, it will basically allow your new paint to bond to anything. The bodyman who clued me into it told me that he routinely just power-washed greasy tractors good, sprayed the flashbond, then painted. Never had an issue with adhesion. I’ve always scuffed with scotch-brite first myself and had great results doing that. Good work truck or tractor paint job. Never an issue peeling off the new paint from the base.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
next silly question, since i allready through down a bunch of the rustoluem stuff do i need to strip that off or can i paint over with either of these two products?
Click to expand...
I wired wheeled all the loose paint and rust then cleaned it with a scotch brite soaked in lacquer thinner and used a clean rag to wipe it down then sprayed it once dry
 
I am not a powdercoat fan. I’ll use it but it’s certainly not the best option. It chips and isn’t fixable.

best paint job I’ve had on a buggy was from an automotive body shop. It held up better than steel it or anything else I tried.

never been successful at making rattle can stick even with prep, primer, and proper temps.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
it was saying min prep is commercial blast to NACE something. Are you sand blasting. looks like a awesome product by the way
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it normal prep clean and scuff.

price is good also ~15$ Quart

i bought 20 litres of paint with thinners it was 340 euros
 
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