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Bending Chromoly

booger

booger

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Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1158
Messages
437
Loc
Corpus Christi
I need to put a couple of 30 degree bends in some 1.75 x .120 chromoly. Preferably close to the end of the tubing. I don't currently own a proper bender. Has anyone tried using a greenlee conduit bender? Will a harbor freight 12T bender get it done? Most of the fab shops in my area are working aluminum since everything here is oriented towards boats.

I only need to do this twice to complete my project, I do not want to buy an JD bender to do it. What alternative options have you guys got?

I am building radius arms like the attached pic.

IMG_8575.jpeg
 
It's only a 30deg bend. HF will be fine as long as you've replaced the pin in rollers with something that offers more support so you don't crunch the tube and maybe cap the end if it still wants to crunch.

The more I use my HF the more I come to the conclusion that people kinking shit with it are oblivious idiots who can't be bothered to stop and change something when they see the tube start doing something they don't don't want. And that's coming from someone who's bent some real dumb shit in that mfer. :laughing:
 
are you building TTB radius arms or doing something similar and used that as a picture?
 
Twankie said:
I'm south of Houston so if you want to take a road trip I can bend them for you.
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Thank you for the offer. I believe I found a local that can bend them. I went back and forth on just coping them as mentioned above, but a bender popped up.
 
bdkw1 said:
You running coils in the stock location?
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Yes, I did briefly consider coil overs. Ultimately I am closely matching someone else's van because it is a proven design and is well known to preform. If I were building it without this in mind I would have gone coils overs, I probably also would have gone for straight, coped radius arms. This one will be built using coil springs in the stock buckets. It should be good for 12" of travel. Which will drastically out preform the Dana 60 with less than 2" up travel and only about 4-5" total travel. If you wanted to go slow it worked fine, doing a couple hundred miles of offroad a day in wooped out baja the TTB is going to be a big upgrade.
 
You can go the 3" coilover spring route, it gives you a lot more options.
 
bdkw1 said:
You can go the 3" coilover spring route, it gives you a lot more options.
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Are you running a TTB on something? Feel free to share if you are. I’m ready to weld the radius arm mounts on but am now making sure I have a decent grasp on alignment. This van will be used in Baja and needs to get there and back on a lot highway.
 
If you can swing it, go coil over. The bigger the better. 3" CO's have way better spring selection in the lengths a TTB needs.

If your poors and just need good spring selection......

20220602_191440.jpg


20220603_161937.jpg


You can modify the coil bucket and bottom perch to run 3" CO springs. I would also recommend limit straps when you get the springs and coils figured out.

Are you moving the bottom BJ out on the beams?
 
bdkw1 said:
If you can swing it, go coil over. The bigger the better. 3" CO's have way better spring selection in the lengths a TTB needs.

If your poors and just need good spring selection......

20220602_191440.jpg


20220603_161937.jpg


You can modify the coil bucket and bottom perch to run 3" CO springs. I would also recommend limit straps when you get the springs and coils figured out.

Are you moving the bottom BJ out on the beams?
Click to expand...
I am not doing the cut and turned option, I am doing a 4"ish lift from stock 2wd van height. The purpose is to clear 35" tires and use all of the wheel well with minimal trimming. I am also going to flared fenders to help accommodate the tires.

My van was converted to 4wd using a donor Quiggly, it had 35" tires on it a preformed decently but just needed more travel to allow for higher speeds in the desert.

Did you go cut and turned? What is yours under? If van I want pics and info. What springs are those and what lift do they provide?
 
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To get travel you need lift. Either you run drop down brackets or you cut and turn. Cut and turn doesn't screw with the steering geometry.

That picture is a 2X stupid duty. But I have done the same mod on different trucks before. We raced a 7S ranger for years with CO springs. It had swiveling bottom perches that rode on trailer hitch balls. :lmao:
 
bdkw1 said:
To get travel you need lift. Either you run drop down brackets or you cut and turn. Cut and turn doesn't screw with the steering geometry.

That picture is a 2X stupid duty. But I have done the same mod on different trucks before. We raced a 7S ranger for years with CO springs. It had swiveling bottom perches that rode on trailer hitch balls. :lmao:
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Sounds like I could then add cut and turned later if I really saw reason to go to 37s.

It's a shame you don't have pics of the trailer ball setup.
 
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