Bathroom/shower remodel - using Schluter Kerdi Kit - what kind of Backer on walls?

[bgaidan]

Potentially selling my house soon and figured I should probably finish the master bath that I gutted about 6 months ago. 🤣

In the interest of getting it done quick, I'm gonna just splurge on the Kerdi kit. It's about $400 for everything. I'd probably only save maybe $200 buy doing mortar after buying the slope kit, curb kit, drain, etc. I fucking hate mixing mortar.

I removed the old fiberglass tub insert and I'm left with bare studs so I need to but something in for backer. I already bought Hardi backer because I was originally going to do mortar. But with the Kerdi membrane, I'm thinking that's not necessary. Any reason to not just put up purple board? Should be a little cheaper and easier to blend in to the old walls.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

drywall. Pretty sure it doesn't even need to be green or purple. Plain old drywall is what's recommended.

What is purple drywall?

Edit: Also, read this, and don't mud your seams/corners.

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...d.php?t=115009

Edit: Oh, and if you're looking for quick and easy, the 1 or 3 piece acrylic tubs kick fucking ass. 1 piece are noticably cheaper but are difficult to get into the room. 3 piece fit anywhere.

Toss it in place and connect pipes and done. Never worry about water leaking anywhere. Plus it's super easy to put in a led pot light in the ceiling and fancy up your shower.

 

[dntsdad]

Yep. Kerdi just over normal drywall will work fine. I used their whole system in my shower remodel and it all worked great.

Another vote on the John Bridge forums. Great tile, shower, etc. forum with friendly old dudes willing to help out.

 

[bgaidan]

drywall. Pretty sure it doesn't even need to be green or purple. Plain old drywall is what's recommended.

What is purple drywall?

Edit: Also, read this, and don't mud your seams/corners.

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...d.php?t=115009

Edit: Oh, and if you're looking for quick and easy, the 1 or 3 piece acrylic tubs kick fucking ass. 1 piece are noticably cheaper but are difficult to get into the room. 3 piece fit anywhere.

Toss it in place and connect pipes and done. Never worry about water leaking anywhere. Plus it's super easy to put in a led pot light in the ceiling and fancy up your shower.

Purple is the moisture rated stuff around here. I guess it's green in other parts of the country.


Going for a little bit of custom look because I think I'll get my money back in the resale. I tore out the old single piece unit because it looked tacky and was an original relic from when the house was builtin the early 80's. I just did facelifts on the other two bathrooms and left the tubs in place. I figured the master bath deserves a little more flare.


I'll probably return the hardi and go with plain drywall then. Still need to figure out what do with the crown. The ceilings are low enough that I'd like to run the tile all the way up, but it'll be an ugly transition to cut the crown back. I suppose I could trim the bottom of the crown so it continues flush over the tile, but that may look stupid. Best option is to probably hold the tile ~1' or so down from the ceiling and leave a painted strip of wall.

 

[dntsdad]

I would run the tile down from the crown but I think 1" would make it look like bad planning.

Personally, I would do 4-5". Just guessing by the pic but that would still put your tile ~12" over the showerhead stub

 

[bgaidan]

I would run the tile down from the crown but I think 1" would make it look like bad planning.

Personally, I would do 4-5". Just guessing by the pic but that would still put your tile ~12" over the showerhead stub

Just butt the tile up against the bottom of the crown? You said 1" - I said 1'. It would about split the difference between the shower head and the crown.

This was one option I found, but I don't have the 1/4 round on mine - but I think I have the same "upper" crown shown here. I'd be chopping the lower part of the crown off over the tile if I wen this route:

I think this looks like ass:

And I guess butting it doesn't look as bad as I expected. Just need to be really careful to get the lines and joints right.

 

[Squamch]

Another vote for 1 piece acrylic. Fuck tiles in every and all respects. I've made a ton of money setting tiles, but no one maintains them properly and they and up looking like shit and are far more likely to leak.

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

I’d keep the hardi.... saving 10’s of dollars for a way shitty backer board (drywall) ....

3x5 mud pan uses about 5-6 bags of sand and cement ($20-$30)
pvc liner ($40-$50)
The schluter system seams easier but it’s not...
not to mention not as proven as old school mud pan!!!
Not to mention expensive as fuck!!!!

If you want quick, cheap and easy do the acrylic system’s mentioned above!!!!

I agree with running the tile up to the crown!!!
Are you using large format tile (bigger than 12x12???

 

[bgaidan]

I’d keep the hardi.... saving 10’s of dollars for a way shitty backer board (drywall) ....

3x5 mud pan uses about 5-6 bags of sand and cement ($20-$30)
pvc liner ($40-$50)
The schluter system seams easier but it’s not...
not to mention not as proven as old school mud pan!!!
Not to mention expensive as fuck!!!!

If you want quick, cheap and easy do the acrylic system’s mentioned above!!!!

I agree with running the tile up to the crown!!!
Are you using large format tile (bigger than 12x12???

STFU greg

 

[dave_dj1]

Who puts crown in a bathroom? LOL
Acrylic shower unit.
I wouldn't go to the crown, stay down as far as you can and still be a little above the shower head.

 

[Deuce 40s]

I'm putting some heavy ass tile in my bathroom. My tile guy installed hardi board, caulked and taped the joints, and painted blue waterproofing membrane all over everything. That's as far as he's gotten so far. I don't know if he sets the mortar and tile on the blue membrane or if there's another step in between.

 

[Deuce 40s]

I think this looks like ass:

This return is cut backwards. I've never seen that before.

I'm installing crown in my bathroom and will have a return about an inch or two before the tile. I'm tiling the ceiling above my shower too so I couldn't continue the crown.

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

I'm putting some heavy ass tile in my bathroom. My tile guy installed hardi board, caulked and taped the joints, and painted blue waterproofing membrane all over everything. That's as far as he's gotten so far. I don't know if he sets the mortar and tile on the blue membrane or if there's another step in between.

CBP is what’s used for the waterproofing.. joints and corners should be treated with fiberglass mesh!!

This one’s ready for tile!!!!

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

STFU greg

Just trying to keep your shower from leaking and/or looking like ass!!!!

 

[arse_sidewards]

If one wasn't going to do tile what would one do for a bomb proof low maintenance bathroom floor?

 

[Roc Doc]

Another vote for 1 piece acrylic. Fuck tiles in every and all respects. I've made a ton of money setting tiles, but no one maintains them properly and they and up looking like shit and are far more likely to leak.

What is the proper method of maintaining a tiled shower. I've got two big ones and a third in fiberglass, the grout is always getting moldy and it looks like it's deteriorating, (built in 1997).

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

What is the proper method of maintaining a tiled shower. I've got two big ones and a third in fiberglass, the grout is always getting moldy and it looks like it's deteriorating, (built in 1997).

Where’s the mold??
Is it a mud pan??
Mold means it’s retaining water and never drying out... could mean the waterproofing wasn’t done right and leaking!!!
if it’s in the pan, it could mean there’s no preslope in the pan (which a lot of guys did because it’s one less step) ... no preslope means all the water doesn’t run out the weep holes so there’s constant water sitting at the weep hole height (usually about a 1/4”)!!!

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

If one wasn't going to do tile what would one do for a bomb proof low maintenance bathroom floor?

LVP!!!!
Cheap and durable!!!! Glue down or floating will work great!!!!

 

[Clemson13]

Is there a reason that no one ever seems to talk about the solid surface options for the floor pans? Put one of those in then do nice tile walls? It seems like a good way to not have the crappy fiberglass pan feel, be 100% waterproof, and still have a nice looking tile wall. I have been thinking of doing thsa in my 3rd bathroom that I need to renovate.

Something like this: https://swanstone.com/en/product/ss-...1000-C-000-011

 

[Squamch]

LVP!!!!
Cheap and durable!!!! Glue down or floating will work great!!!!

I am not a fan of plank, I prefer roll vinyl. And glue down over floating.

Roc Doc proper maintenance is to use a sealed grout, and reseal periodically. Like Greg said, mildew means it's not drying out, whether that is from moisture soaking in because it's not sealed, or more serious waterproofing issues is hard to tell without demo.

 

[arse_sidewards]

LVP!!!!
Cheap and durable!!!! Glue down or floating will work great!!!!

I'm willing to sacrifice cheap and do a little maintenance if it gets me something a little more timeless with less of a "I'm just doing the bare minimum to keep the tenants from complaining" look than vinyl.

 

[subybaja]

Is there a reason that no one ever seems to talk about the solid surface options for the floor pans? Put one of those in then do nice tile walls? It seems like a good way to not have the crappy fiberglass pan feel, be 100% waterproof, and still have a nice looking tile wall. I have been thinking of doing thsa in my 3rd bathroom that I need to renovate.

Something like this: https://swanstone.com/en/product/ss-...1000-C-000-011

That's what I'm looking at when I do mine.

Except solid surface surround, too. All the advantages for the pan apply to the walls. And fuck tile.

 

[Roc Doc]

I am not a fan of plank, I prefer roll vinyl. And glue down over floating.

Roc Doc proper maintenance is to use a sealed grout, and reseal periodically. Like Greg said, mildew means it's not drying out, whether that is from moisture soaking in because it's not sealed, or more serious waterproofing issues is hard to tell without demo.

I'm in Phoenix and this time of year the AC runs 24/7, (on a thermostat of course), so the showers dry out pretty quick, but I did have a leak behind the wall from a Moen cartridge that went bad, but I replaced that and tested it no more leaks. Could be residual moisture I suppose, but it's been several months. There's a local guy that calls himself Grout Dr., I may give him a call, as I remember what a PITA it was to seal the kitchen grout in my last house.

 

[Deleted Member]

I'm in Phoenix and this time of year the AC runs 24/7, (on a thermostat of course), so the showers dry out pretty quick, but I did have a leak behind the wall from a Moen cartridge that went bad, but I replaced that and tested it no more leaks. Could be residual moisture I suppose, but it's been several months. There's a local guy that calls himself Grout Dr., I may give him a call, as I remember what a PITA it was to seal the kitchen grout in my last house.

It also depends on the type of grout... epoxy grout vs. cement based.

Epoxy is the go to for shower installs in my experience. I have seen quite a few in cement based and they definitely have a tendency to mold on occasion.

 

[Hippie666]

STFUG.


shluter is the bomb. It is pricy and worth every penny, IF you are keeping the place. Use it and this under it on the walls https://buildgp.com/product/densshield-tile-backer/ Never had a complaint or call back. Again Schulter is awesome and fuck cement backer board, densshield is easy to hang , easy to move, easy to cut, easy to seam , etc. again, schuler is the bomb

 

[Hippie666]

That's what I'm looking at when I do mine.

Except solid surface surround, too. All the advantages for the pan apply to the walls. And fuck tile.

be careful when selecting one. They can be slick when standing in them and showering. They are awesome if you don’t mind he molded base look and get one that has a texture. They can also get pricey for a decent one, also make sure you bed it in mortar so it does not flex.

 

[bgaidan]

I'm in Phoenix and this time of year the AC runs 24/7, (on a thermostat of course), so the showers dry out pretty quick, but I did have a leak behind the wall from a Moen cartridge that went bad, but I replaced that and tested it no more leaks. Could be residual moisture I suppose, but it's been several months. There's a local guy that calls himself Grout Dr., I may give him a call, as I remember what a PITA it was to seal the kitchen grout in my last house.

When was the last time you sealed the grout?

Ever tried one of those shower sprays that you just quickly mist down the shower after use?

 

[bgaidan]

LVP!!!!
Cheap and durable!!!! Glue down or floating will work great!!!!

STFU greg

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

What is the proper method of maintaining a tiled shower. I've got two big ones and a third in fiberglass, the grout is always getting moldy and it looks like it's deteriorating, (built in 1997).

We squeegee the walls, then dry everything with a towel. Yes it takes a couple minutes, but then the shower is dry in a short time. We've never done anything else, including zero cleaning, but it gets sealed with miracle something-something every few years.

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

STFUG.


shluter is the bomb. It is pricy and worth every penny, IF you are keeping the place. Use it and this under it on the walls https://buildgp.com/product/densshield-tile-backer/ Never had a complaint or call back. Again Schulter is awesome and fuck cement backer board, densshield is easy to hang , easy to move, easy to cut, easy to seam , etc. again, schuler is the bomb

Schluter is the bomb....
easy
easy
easy aaand
Easy....
oh yea....and schluter is the bomb!!!

Got it!!!!