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Band saw, which route to go

Fishnbeer

The dude abides
Joined
Jun 8, 2020
Member Number
1907
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494
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CA
I have needed a band saw for a very long time. Debating if I want to go the porta-band/swag off road route or get one of the small bench top models. I dont have much space left in the garage so the larger machines are out.

I really need the ability to use it in vertical position for cutting parts from flat plate. The portaband would work for that. But curious on these style machines, can you fit a table to them and use in vertical position?


That grizzly model looks the same as many others, like the northern tool variety:


Any other advantages of one over the other?
 
If you cut angles, the capacity is seriously reduced. They only cut like 2" wide material at 60*. They dont have vertical table, but looks like a bunch of people on Northern tool made their own in the review section.
 
I love my portaband for a hobbiest.. i have a m18 on a swag bench top model.
 
I set up a 10" Baldor double ended grinder with a cutoff wheel on one end for quick cutoff's for flat plate and smaller tube. It doesn't take up much space and I use it more often than the portaband. I just made a spare drag link and tie rod for my LJ and used the pedestal grinder to rough cut the bar stock to length.

I also have a vertical band saw that almost never gets used and a horizontal I use regularly for bigger material.
 
I have the DeWalt DWM120K corded 10A portaband, it's a 5" deep cut unit and chews through damn near anything running Lenox Wolf-band blades. Leaf springs are no big deal.

Then a SWAG table which is nice for freehand work.

So if you value the flexibility of a handheld style saw at the expense of a bit of accuracy, I say go for it. Make sure you have a stout bench vise to hold the SWAG table in place.
 
I have the DeWalt DWM120K corded 10A portaband, it's a 5" deep cut unit and chews through damn near anything running Lenox Wolf-band blades. Leaf springs are no big deal.

Then a SWAG table which is nice for freehand work.

So if you value the flexibility of a handheld style saw at the expense of a bit of accuracy, I say go for it. Make sure you have a stout bench vise to hold the SWAG table in place.

I have the same Dewalt one, built my own little shitty table for it with some plate and square tube...WAY cheaper than the SWAG table.

I would not say it chews through things that quickly though, I do most of my tube cutting on a dry cut and it's easily 20 times faster.
 
I have the same Dewalt one, built my own little shitty table for it with some plate and square tube...WAY cheaper than the SWAG table.

I would not say it chews through things that quickly though, I do most of my tube cutting on a dry cut and it's easily 20 times faster.

Oh I agree, no band saw is fast even with the best blades. A dry cut is probably the best option for chop saw use.
 
Since you are tight on space, aside from thick materials, like let's say a 6" shaft, what benefits are a stand alone bandsaw vs a grinder or dry cut saw? I came really close to buying an old brick shit house built one and gearing it down for metal, but decided it wasn't worth the time. There's nothing I could think of that would be much easier to cut on it vs other tools I already own.
 
I talked to a buddy at work, his father in law gave him an old porter cable porta-band. He is going to bring it in and let me check it out. Since it is so old, I am not sure if it will work with the swag table. I gotta find out the model number.

BUT if that does not work out, I am taking another look at one of these stationary units. I thought they were much bigger, this one is 36" long x 38" H. If I cut off 4" from the legs on the stand I may be able to slip it under my welding table.

How are the tables on them when used vertically? Are they decent or does it just have some flimsy table, just to say 'it has a table'?
 
In order of preference for me, top is most preferred:

Do all or larger style band saw. Blade welder, sometimes powered table, bad fuckin ass.
Large horizontal saw, 6x10 or whatever
Horizontal saw, red Hf style, can be good with improvements
Portaband in a table (swag, diy, etc) (this is what I have right now)
Portaband standalone
Portaband on a hinge (chop saw style)
 
Since you are tight on space, aside from thick materials, like let's say a 6" shaft, what benefits are a stand alone bandsaw vs a grinder or dry cut saw? I came really close to buying an old brick shit house built one and gearing it down for metal, but decided it wasn't worth the time. There's nothing I could think of that would be much easier to cut on it vs other tools I already own.
And that's exactly why I don't have a band saw.

When I need complex curves it's plasma or jigsaw. When I just need to cut shit it's cutoff saw or sawzall or grinder or plasma.

A horizontal would be nice but the only thing that actually gets me vs my current setup is "power" feed. If I was constantly cutting complex shapes out of 12 x 12 pieces of plate I might feel differently but I'm not.
 
I despise the grinder chop saws. Too messy and noisy. I have a couple nice band saw now. Prior to having them I got pretty good with the porta band to replace the horizontal. Of course the porta band has many other uses. I would prioritize one of those over a little horizontal.
 
I despise the grinder chop saws. Too messy and noisy.

I agree with this, and it's why I never bought a hot or cold steel chop saw. HOLY SHIT they are loud, and either throw sparks or chips all over.
 
2 years ago I purchased this one for 900 w/warranty. I've put alot of steel thru the thing with Starrett blades off Mcmaster with no issues. Is it a DoAll or Ellis, nope but was something I could afford at the time.

Huge difference from their normal crap red one.

Fucker is now $1400
 
i have the band saw linked in op.

it is very slow cutting. i hate using it. i only keep it around for onsite handrail jobs. good cuts but a grinder witha cut off wheel is much faster
 
I have a DeWalt portaband with a piece of 10ga for a table that I clamp in a vice. Probably my favorite cutting tool for small parts. I also have a doall that I should really start using but with limited room the portaband is just more convenient.
 
So I was able to round up a milwaukee portaband, model 6230. Looks like it will work with the swag table. My brother owed me for some work I did on his car and he gave me the saw. Its kinda beat, needs new tires and some blades but it works.

What tpi should I be looking at? I figure one for mild steel, one for aluminum, and one for hacking anything else up

If I get the table with the miter groove, anyone know what size that groove is? I have a miter gauge here for my belt grinder, curious if it will work on there
 
Just got it together. I may need some adjusting of the saw blade rollers, its dragging on a corner of the adapter plate
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Bump for an old thread. :flipoff2:

Just picked up an old milwaukee porta band. Always happy to get new tools. Gonna order new tires and some blades. Also gonna build my own holder. The thing nearly stands on end on its own, so a hillbilly stand should be easy to throw together....
 
HF Came out with this not too long ago. Seems pretty sweet for what it is

A buddy bought one after giving up looking for a small bench / table top saw. Needless to say he is back to looking for a saw. He said that the HF thing works fine cutting a piece of balanced cross section material with a new blade in it but if the blade is chipped or damaged in anyway it snags and tries to twist the frame. The miter ability is not very good either as the saw wants to buck and move the tube since you're no longer cutting against the fence unless making a bunch of fine tweaks. I also watched him try to miter cut a piece of angle with it and it just wanted to pull it down through the guide and kept binding, looks like the "universal attachment bracket" holes were kinda drilled willy nilly and "close enough, the buyer can fight to slop to get it "square-ish" The tabs that it hinges on could stand to have a full length tube hinge between them to make it more rigid as the saw tries to twist the base when it grabs. I'm cutting him a piece of tube on the lathe because he wants it to be straight... he even told me "don't mention the saw, I know".

Years ago I had one of the little chinesium import 6" band saws from Northern that you could also lock vertical and mount a table on. I don't think it ever cut straight or cut without throwing the blades. I got it used and the seller said the same thing to me. I chased adjustments and stuff on it until I gave up and bought an old Wells 8 hz. Thats bigger than what the OP said they wanted. I sold that when I was moving and now have a Johnson 11x18 and its cutting within 1/32" of square over an 8" piece of pipe.
 
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Recently bought a doall c916s. Ive already got a c916a, an automatic version very similar but this one mitres. It will get cleaned up and a set of v groove casters under it to get put on my saw track.

I had been looking for a while, and options are limited in a horizontal swivel saw selection. Should be a great addition to the shop.
 
I've been thinking about this...and I think cutting requirements fit into 2 catagories. 1 - for welding, 2 - for machine work.

For welding/fab work, you're not cutting anything thick....a cutoff wheel will do, or a portaband. I wouldn't bother with a big vertical or even a 4x6 horizontal if you're not machining anything.

If you are doing mill/lathe work, then you most certainly need a horizontal bandsaw, and a vertical one.

If you are #1 and have the space, a harbor freight 4x6 (with it's necessary tune-ups) is a great compromise and very versatile.
 
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Little progress today. Got the carrige built and saw set on the tracks. Shops miserable damp and humid so i said f it and left it. I need to rework the infeed conveyor so it clears the swivel, and clean out all the drops on the right so the auto can slide over all the way.
 
Little progress today. Got the carrige built and saw set on the tracks. Shops miserable damp and humid so i said f it and left it. I need to rework the infeed conveyor so it clears the swivel, and clean out all the drops on the right so the auto can slide over all the way.
I've been at a cottage for a week (and couldn't log in) but I saw your post about the saw track and wanted to ask you to explain more.

Timely post!

So, what's the advantage to a setup like this? Easier to adjust the saw to really big material?
 
I've been at a cottage for a week (and couldn't log in) but I saw your post about the saw track and wanted to ask you to explain more.

Timely post!

So, what's the advantage to a setup like this? Easier to adjust the saw to really big material?
Saves space and lets you handle long material better. Cutting 1' off a 24', roll it to the right. Cutting a 24' in half, roll it left.
 
So I think I made a deal on a Marvel 81 and conveyor. These are nice saws, hope it works but the price was too good to pass up.

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Good choice we have a mark 8 at work and for processing material it is the shit. Literally we have cut 14 inch 4340 shaft on it, pipe up to 16 inches, and everything in between. For stuff bigger than you would shear I have trouble thinking of something faster for processing metal.
 
Good choice we have a mark 8 at work and for processing material it is the shit. Literally we have cut 14 inch 4340 shaft on it, pipe up to 16 inches, and everything in between. For stuff bigger than you would shear I have trouble thinking of something faster for processing metal.
Yea, I'm looking forward to having a vertical in the shop. I need to figure out what to do with the two DoAlls because I really don't need 3 saws taking up space. I'll keep the automatic one set up somewhere for sure.
 
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